Thanks!

I haven't weighed it, but judging by the weight of my V1 Revo, which was 14 pounds, I would guess maybe 10 pounds. Maybe a little less.

It is a little heavy on the battery side, but not too bad. The motor, motor mount, ESC, and servo help to balance it - and those items stick out a little further from the center line of the chassis, so that helps too.

You might want to Frog Leg arms (extende wheelbase arms). They will make it far more stable. If it will work, the center diff would be great as well. I actually have one I'm about to put on Ebay.

I would except I am using RPM arms. I kept breaking the stock arms on my Nitro Revo (gotta avoid those rocks) but the RPMs are thicker and tend not to be so brittle. I'll see how this handles before I get a center diff. I do know that I am having a hard time keeping the front-end down if I goose it and I know a diff would help. I plan to program the Quark so it has less punch - that should also help protect the drivetrain and increase runtime.

You break rear arms!?! Anywho, I think RPM would make a killing if they made the Extended Wheelbase arms in nylon...

How are you getting a 4lb drop from v1 to v2? Thats nearly a 50% weight gain. :040: Looking through both threads, I don't see a whole lot that would add up to 4 lbs. Is this between the batt mounts, rollbar and emaxx tranny? I am planning a Emaxx conversion, but the weight diff you are suggesting is making be have pause.

I like the idea of the disc brake tho, so this conversion is interesting. I have a BL rustler and use the motor brake to correct my often "nose up" jumps, but hate how much strain I end up putting through the tranny, spur and motor. I worry about this more on a heavy 4wd MT. I also like the idea of stock parts. I had a hoped-up emaxx that became almost no funto drive having to worry about breaking expensive custom parts. I want to avoid that as much as possible on the Evo.

If the weight savings are that dramatic that is another huge plus.

Well the Revos are pretty indestructable to begin with. But to answer the other part of your question, yes, I'm pretty certain the Revo tranny is lighter than the E-Maxx as well as the fact that hes using only slightly more than half what he was before.

There are a number of things that contributed to the weight loss:

- I used 1/16" 6061 T6 Al in V2 as opposed to 1/8" thick "crap" Al you find at Lowe's/Menards (don't know the grade) in V1. Plus, I used more metal in V1. In hindsight, I could have drilled large holes in some places to reduce weight in V1.

- The Emaxx tranny is quite a bit heavier than the Revo one. In the emaxx, the input gears and idler gear are metal. All the Revo gears are plastic, but they are wide so they are still tough. There are more bearings in the emaxx tranny too. I removed first gear and the OWB altogether in V2. Again in hindsight, I could've lightened up the Emaxx tranny by removing the input gear for first gear. The input shaft on the Revo tranny is smaller and therefore lighter. I also think the slipper assy in the Revo is lighter than the strobe, but not sure.

- The center drive shafts and cups in V1 were steel as opposed to the stock sliders in V2.

- I used heavier tires in V1 for better wear life.

Well, I've had some time to play around with this version and I must say I am VERY happy with the results. Even with a 10XL on 14 cells, top speed is plenty for me. I don't know how fast it is but the tires balloon about 1/2" at a guess.

I also didn't expect as much torque geared as high as I am. It will wheelie on command. At first I thought it was because there was a substantial amount of weight in the back, but it wheelies in reverse too. I even set the battery to "NiMH normal" and the throttle curve to the lowest setting. I had to set the brake to soft and the reverse EPA to 70% to keep from flipping when braking.

Runtime is right around 20 minutes give or take and that is running around at a local park in shortish grass.

Motor temps are right around 130F, but the ESC only gets to around 115F. Batts are cooler at around 100F. Outside temps have been hovering in the mid 90's with ~70% humidity (yuk). Looks like the added heatsink on the Quark works wonders, and no fan!

The locked tranny is holding up great (my epoxy filled second gear/clutch assembly). The slipper is set pretty tight too.

Yup, this one is definitely a keeper. It looks good (IMO) and runs good. Now I just have to get over to a track - the only one I know of is at my LHS and it's pretty small. I just don't want everyone there to laugh when they see how badly I drive! :dft001:

Someday, I'll get some Lipos or something.

BTW: I weighed the Revo today:

Without the 14 cell GP3300 pack: 10.58lbs
With the cells: 8.47lbs

Not too bad.

Funny how it gets lighter when you add the batteries :p. Don't worry, mine does that to...

I guess my point is that I need lighter batteries. Those batteries are ~1/4 the weight of the truck! The only non-NiMH that are light enough and will fit in the space I have are those Apogee LiMN cells. Maybe someday.

What about the TrueRC packs?

Or the Maxamps packs? The Maxamps 2s 6000mah is the same size as a 6cell NiMh pack, maybe not quite as wide as the NiMh pack.

The trueRC ones are the only 5S Lipos that I know will fit that have the discharge rate I want (~80A). They also have to be 2" wide by 5.75" long by 2" high. However, the TrueRC pack (8Ah, 10C) is kinda heavy. Too bad there wasn't any 20C packs available so I could go with a 5-6Ah pack that is lighter weight and has the discharge capability I want. So, I'll just wait for the perfect pack and use the heavy NiMH for now. If I'm gonna spend >= $170, it better be what I want...

Do you have the with and with out batteries weight backwards?
I would keep them cells if not. They remove weight more than add.
What about the evo packs? The have a good discharge rating.