How heavy? I figure the batts, motor, various mounts, ESC, and receiver can't be more than 4 lbs. I suppose it feels heavy for such a small vehicle compared to a MT...

Update:

Well, I finished the battery trays and think they look OK. They are specifically sized for the Maxamps 2s2p 8Ah lipos (~140mm X ~50mm). All I have to do now is wait for the plastic I ordered to arrive so I can make the tray standoffs (since some you may know I had "trouble" tapping some Al stock).

Speaking of trays; I made one, then deciding it was too much work, sought out a metal fab company. I gave them explicit dimensions and even the tray I already made as a sample. Well, I picked their product up and was extremely dissatisfied. Below is a pic showing my finished product alongside their crap. The cuts are uneven, the tabs are not the size I wanted, there are bend stress tears at the corners of the tabs, and the tabs themselves are uneven. I attempted to fix one and rounded off the edges, but gave up and just made another one. How can a metal fabrication shop with all the right tools make such a shoddy product when I can use a hacksaw, dremel tool, files, and a vice to do a MUCH better job?? Or am I just being too anal?

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/crap_batt_trays.jpg

Anyone want the unfinished ones? Just pay shipping and they're yours...

From the Neu motor dimensions thread, I'm running into motor placement problems because of the room I have available. Well, I made a BL motor mockup with the EXACT dimensions of a finned Neu 1515 motor along with a 14T pinion to test fit. Yes, that's a toilet paper tube and the stock 14T clutchbell. The screw things are just spacers. The only way for the Neu to fit is to raise the diff about 4mm. Even then it's close:

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/motor_placement.jpg

Your certainly not being anal about it...Serum, he is anal about things...but I don't think you are being anal about it...I can clearly see the uneven cuts and such...Looks like a 11 year old made them with a Swiss Army knife...

OK, just wanted to get someone else's perspective. I tried to clean up the one on the left by filing down some of the jaggedness and to make the sides straight, but just became more disgusted and gave up.

The one on the left? Or the one on the bottom? The one on the bottom seems to be the one with crooked sides and jagged edges....

Well, yeah, but that's because I didn't clean it up yet. I got disgusted before I finished the one on the left and didn't even start on the bottom one. Believe it or not, the one on the left was the worst one!

You just had to get it out of your system, right squee..?

I see potential in the both of them Brian. they can be made identical and perfect, and for the scratches, if you are using the rubber sheet, you don't see it again.

Yeah, but I know it's not perfect - you know what I mean? Even then, it won't look as good as the one I spent forever on.

Appearantly i am too anal to listen to.. LOL

No, I heard and understand what you're saying. They could be fixed so they are pretty, but there are other flaws that would need to be addressed and by the time that was done, there would be a LOT less material there, and less protection for the lipos. They actually look worse in person. The picture was kinda dark so I enhanced it and lost some of the detail.

What kind of paint are you using ont he aluminum? i guess it's the heat resistant type? do you use a primer?

I found that primer doesn't work too well on this Al, even after making sure it is clean. It tends to chip off easily. I used a flat black paint made for metals. Then, I use the "hammered" finish paint. It's kinda glossy and seems to hold up well under use. I used it on both my Revo and Jato (different shades though) and they still look good.

And, I don't think the paint has any special heat resistant properties - why do you ask about that?

Some rubber car under coat would hold help good. About $7 a can at napa auto parts or drop it off at a Rhino liner/LineX shop. I would be POed about those parts too especially if i had to pay someone to do that kind of work. you did a nice cleanup on one of them. From what I've read you're anal about most things, at least you have a reason for this one. Does your wife not understand needing a tape and a level just to hang a picture on the wall? It drives mine nuts.

I never thought of using rubber undercoating. I have tried plastidip and it peels off rather easy, but I imagine undercoating is more sturdy.

Yeah, I guess I am anal about stuff. After all, you spend lots of cash on this hobby, why take short-cuts? I try to make things that look like they could be actually from the manufacturer... within limits.

BrianG I am having the same problem mounting the motor. I will probably mount the motor to the left rear of the diff. If you flip the plastic diff supports upside down it will raise the diff (probably a little more than is needed) and the dog bones should still be long enough to work (at least it looks like it should work with my hyper 7). If you mount the motor above the diff you might want to make sure its not too high for the body. Do you have a picture from the top with the battery trays sitting in position.

The problem with using undercoating is that most of them never totally dry. Where did you get the foam padding that you used in your tray?