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I vote for a plug-in dremel. My wife bought me one back in 2002 and it's still working like new.
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Another vote for the plug-in. I chose to get the plug-in over the battery one because it is always working when you need it, no batteries to worry about. I don't know for sure, but it seems to me that you'd get more torque out of a plug-in model as well. Mine's a 300 series and very gutless but there's no voltage drop when plugged into house current.
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Yes, you do get more torque with a plug-in. I have an inverter in my 1:1 car so no problems taking the Dremel with me anywhere.
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I love my plug-in Dremel...I also have a cordless version, but I never use it.
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Another +1 for plug-in dremels. If you want portable, then get the flex-shaft adaptor, you can move around alot more with it that way. Having a battery operated one isnt worth squat diddly if it only lasts a few minutes and hasnt got much power, and who takes a dremel with them when they go bashing/racing anyway? Not many people I imagine...
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Yes, I have used the li-ion. It is so weak I can put my finger on the edge of the cutting wheel and stop the dremel at full speed without getting cut...
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I did that with my old cordless screwdriver... with my girls's cordless vacuum cleaner (adding more and better nimh's) and with my acoms hayabusa by replacing batts with a crappy 3s-lipo (-->see project x). more volts - more fun :tongue: flo |
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I like the digital Dremel...not the RPM read-out, but the digital sensor that gives it the ability to maintain the set RPM under load, but I wish it didn't have the weird turn-down grip on the end. If the 400 series was digital, it would be perfect!
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Not a bad idea! I've actually thought about that some... I would worry about bearings and the motor over heating. Quote:
Definently a bad charger. That is a shame. Plug that battery into your hobby charger with aligator clips and "let her rip". Still that is a bad sign that you got a bad charger. Quote:
Guys I fixed the tranny! All it took was cutting down the raised place on the 2nd speed input gear! No robots required! :mdr: Sorry Chad I knew what you meant. |
I ended up trading the dremel for something, and I'm not sure what became of it after.
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Zack,
Glad things worked out. |
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http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1003.jpg Can you see right where the camera is focusing? At the end of the idler gear shaft carrier their is a ring that sticks out to catch the inner part of the ilder gear bearing, yeah well that must be cut down some... just go by feel I suppose but the amount I grinded down here was perfect. http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1004.jpg Here is the part I mentioned earlier. You see the left side of the gear? The side facing the threads? It is a raised section that is made to ride the bearing rings just like mentioned just above. It must be ground down. Don't go by the amount I ground because I cut too much off giving a little play back and forth. Just go by feel. Thats it! :yes: Smooth as butter. Still this tranny has soo many problems. Like the screw holes are all way to shallow. Its really a shame. :no: Its like they never actually installed this thing. I hope this helps! :smile: -Zack |
Wow, is the Gorilla part bad, or just the FLM half-case? Or are they both crap and need work to work properly?
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Its FLM
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Trouble with the FLM half case is its designed to only be used with the other half of the case, in which case the supplied screws fit perfectly, and the bearing recces' are the correct depth for each half to work together- when you use the gorillamaxx part with the half case, the screw holes are too shallow, so you need shorter screws to prevent them from bottoming out ( when the two halfs of the case go together it doesnt require really long screws to hold them together, just a few threads is fine for a positive connection, hence the shallow holes).
Seems like a half case option to be used with the gorillamaxx parts was an afterthought, made without making any alterations to the design ( I would have allowed more room for bearing play to be adjusted with shims, and deepers holes to screw the gorillamaxx cover in place; hindsight is 20/20 however....). |
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And yeah I use shorter screws but the motor mount screws holes are short as well which bothers me. Oh well I don't have a tap set. FLM has brilliant moments in every area and some a bit less than brillant in some areas aswell. |
Well, that sucks, and :lol: at the last comment.
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I've been beating the heck out of the truck everything is still great! Definently the most consecutive runs without problems! I've moved to north alabama in a city called Sylacauga with a small RC comunity, a huge BMX track!, and a real rc track with lap counter, drivers stand, air conditioned single wide trailor that has but sadly been shut down for one or two seasons... likely because of the economy.
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Hey Zack good to hear from you. Glad things are well. I am in Gulf Shores, today. Just spent a killer day at the beach with the family.
Trucks are at home. My dive cups came in the day I was leaving. I will finish my build when I gat home. take care. mark |
Thanks Mark. Too bad we didn't get to bash, oh well there is next summer and I am down there alot still. Dude you have to visit Foley Raceway, They race RC Tonight!! And its just 15mins from ya in Gulf Shores! I went to watch two weekends ago and it was sweet!
Yeah I didn't have time to finish my post... I wanted to ask everybody opinion on how to the local track back "on-line". It really needs a grass cutting and some weed eating but how would I go about helping stir interest? Also I loaded my 4 UE Super Shocks with 80wt fluid blue springs in front and black in rear and still its bottoming out after any 10inch drop!! I hate that! Would it help to use 4 of my TRX Big bores as bypass shocks or as 4 regular shocks in addition to my Supers? Any help in either of these areas is much appreciated. -Zack |
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A couple years ago I built a complete American CNC Machine EMaxx I tried just 4 Ofna shocks but had to have 8 shocks to keep it from bottoming out, It was 16.5lbs. I also think if you install 4 more shocks regardless what brand you'll find the 80wt being to much. I settled for 50wt all the way around with extra firm springs,don't remember what lb rating the springs were ? |
I use Hyper 7 front shocks in the back with Savage Flux red or pink springs
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What about 40wt in the big bores and 80 in the supers?
Yeah Snoop I like my Supers and they are easy to find on the bay. Do you run all 8 shocks? 60wt right? |
4 in the front with T-Maxx heavy springs and 40wt
and 2 in the back with 60wt I had to strengthen the RPM tower http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...x/HPIM3258.jpg http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...x/HPIM3257.jpg |
Man, after reading through this thread and Mark's thread over and over, I have to itch to build a maxx again.... Anyone have a 3905 Roller? :lol:
Zack: I'll be in Gulf Shores on Aug 13-17. I planned on bringing the Summit and the Rustler. I may have to throw a BL system in the Summit and some LPR tires and try it out over there at the Foley track. Looks like fun for sure! |
Sounds like a plan man! I should be able to come down. Sadly no RC races to attend but they do race Go-Carts the 15th which should be fun to watch! I'll bring my Maxx and we'll throw it down. Just messin around on the track and whatnot. Any chance of you bringing James with ya? LOL
A well built Maxx should be in every hobby man's collection. Its the biggest vehicle ever to hit the scene. Changed everything. |
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I used to have a poorly built t-maxx pro .15. Does that count? LOL
Also had plenty of other maxxes... |
Definitely agree! I bought my E-Maxx when they first came out. Narrow and slow. Then I added the Proline suspension kit which made the world of difference. Then came the 7-cell NiMh's and wow! The I added a BPP Torpedo chassis, no more wheelies. Then came a 9920/9L brushless, hello wheelies. Then I added aluminum, FLM bulks, UE diffs, UE EXT suspension, UE shocks, the works... Then I wanted a Revo, and I made a stupid deal that screwed me over!... And Now I wish I had it back....
Why did I ever sell it...:neutral::whip: http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/myemaxx7.jpg http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P7260012.jpg http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P7260007.jpg http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P1010150.jpg http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/P1010022.jpg http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...r/100_1209.jpg |
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I still have my '01 3906
<a href="http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z198/SnoopMaxx/?action=view¤t=ca49db4e.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z198/SnoopMaxx/ca49db4e.jpg" border="0" alt="SnoopMaxx"></a> It wasn't until 4-5 month ago that I really started upgrading it before that it was only tires/wheels and body changes Ooh yeah and a ton of titans and gears :whistle: |
Nice! I wish I had kept mine. I could have made 3 more from all the spares and takeoff parts I had. I really screwed myself on that revo trade...
Has anyone used 8ight rear shocks on their Maxx. I'm trying to find a good deal on a 3905 and I want to try and use some 8ight-t rear shock on all 4 corners. Any thoughts? They should fit right? |
I love my Maxxes! Well, they are Supermaxxes, but Maxxes none-the-less! :)
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I've seen Losi 8 shocks they are a perfect size in terms of suspension action for using 4 but I probably need to cut a bit away from the arms so that they fit.
Does anybody know how durable a 4wd HPI Wheel King is? Its not for me but for a co-workers 7yr old son. |
Thats what I was thinking as well on the 8ight shock. I may have to clearance the arms to fit them. We'll see once I get one.
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The HPI WK is an excellent truck, and very durable, especially for a 7 year old kid...he will love the wheelies!
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