Well guys, I made some great progress today. I have begun final assembly this morning. I have all the parts that I need.:yes: unless I break something. I have been able to reassemble the the chassis. I got the front and rear diffs sorted out. I reassembled the slipperential and put 300k diff oil in there. I have the main chassis the center diff mounted as well as the front and rear diffs. I was able to pick up a set of UE Titanium CVD's last week on Ebay (95.00 US and in great shape:yipi:). They are mounted as well. I will post picks soon. My youngest son turns one on Tuesday(Happy Birthday Ethan:party:) and we are having his party today so as you guys can imagine I won't get any more time on it today. I hope to have most of the truck assembled tomorrow.
Mike.

Well this is the progress so far. I'm just trying to make sure I take my time and do this right. I'm using locktite on everything and going slow.http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0151-1.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0154-1.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0158-1.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0159-1.jpg

More pics.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0161-1.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0162-1.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0161.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0160.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0152.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0156.jpg

Next order of business, reassemble shocks with 80wt oil. Mount ESC plate,Steering assembly, and electronics. I will post more pics soon.

So I had the chance to work on it a little more. I was able to reassemble the shocks and put 80wt. oil in them. I put the wheels and receiver box just to show what they will look like. I put the cross braces on the front and back, and I put Locktite on more of the parts.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0166.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0167.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0176.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0174.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0172.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0171.jpg

More pics.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0170.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0169.jpg
Mounted the ESC plate.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0168.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0165.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0164.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0177.jpg

Looks really great!! Are you planning to run/bash this thing or is it going to be a shelf queen?

I will run this thing, hopefully not into a tree. Thank you for the compliment your threads among others have been the inspiration for this truck. Yeah I did not spend all this money and put in all this effort to have this thing sit around and collect dust!!!!
Mike.

Wow that truck is turning out great. My FLM emaxx will only be the chassis, motor mount (if I can find where I put it), hybrid bulkheads and that's it so far but your shocks have caught my eye though. Where did you get the shocks? Are they the FLM shocks or ??

I see in the photos that you posted in the latter part pa the pics that there's a red flat plate. What is this plate for ?

That's the ESC mount.

Thank you George, yes indeed that is my ESC mount. Because of where I mounted the motor/slipperential, the length of the motor would not let me mount the ESC in the original holes. So I had to make the plate with holes 10mm back. As for the shocks they are the Proline http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Shocks-2-Slash
Make shure that you get all rears. Also I had the spring rings anodized to match everything else. Thanks guys for all the compliments. This has been in the works for almost 5 months now and it's finally coming together. If I could just get more time to work on it. More pics will be coming soon. Next I will mount the temporary servos and steering linkage. As soon as the Hitec 9380 brushless/neu castle sservos come out (supposedly in September) I will get a set of those http://www.bigsquidrc.com/hitec-hsb-...shless-servos/
Thanks again guys!

OK, next problem. I have assembled the steering bellcranks and started to mount the turnbuckles, and it seems that they are too long. I have the aluminum turnbuckle kit for the emaxx brushless 112mm in front and 124mmin the rear. Which ones do I need to get?

I'd have thought the UE knuckles & a-arms had their own specific turnbuckles to use as they are non-standard lengths compared to the stock old or new emaxx turnbuckles, so far as I know. I'd set the knuckles straight ahead, and the steering bellcranks centered, then use some calipers or something to work out the length you need and see if anything matches pre-existing options; you can also make your own turnbukle to find the required length using some threaded rod & a couple rod ends ( trim rod as required until the steering knuckles & bellcranks play nice )...

I'm going to try a set of these because I cut them to what ever length I want.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...PgMFJBjwufZUMQ
Do you have any experience with these?

Here are a few more pics. It's of the bell cranks mounted, before they get covered by the titanium skid plates.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0183.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0184.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0182.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0181.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0180.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0178.jpg

Never used them myself, but I've seen a few guys who bought them after the BYT review, no complaints from what I've seen so they should be fine :yes:

Liking the dual servo saver bellcrank setup, that should be nice and beefy with zero slop.

It was great with my original truck I think it will work out great with the new truck. Thanks Neil.

Speaking of servos, I was reading somewhere last night about a new beefy servo coming out in the near future. I can't remember where I read it but it talked about neu castle motors powering the servo.

The post had a link to big squid ? I'm guessing its the site that was discussing the leaked photos even though the mfr, hi-tech I'm guessing is manufacturing it?? This could make for a extremely beefy setup or a strong single would be my guess. I'd imagine it would probably lose its waterproofing ability due to the switch over.

Look at my post at the top of this page.

I just got an email from the guys at Hitec and it seems that they have had another delay in production. Now they don't know when the release date will be. I wonder what the problem is. I wonder if it's the Nue Castle motors that are causing the delay.

I've been digging through this thread a little bit tonight and came across this post you had about the side to side movement. Did it take several shims to get the output shafts set right or not ? I'm worried about me putting the shims inbetween the output shaft cross pin and the o-ring. The shims aren't going to cause a problem with this are they? I don't want to have To redo all this again.

I believe I had to put two shims just on one side. It was between the output shaft and the bearing (outside the diff case but inside the hybrid bulkhead ). I can't remember if it was on the ring gear side or the other side. I think I tried it both ways and one side was better than the other. Just don't locktite everything down until you find the right combo. Take your time and you won't have to ever do it again, and no it did not cause any problems at all in fact it helped smooth everything out.

I'm about to assemble the turnbuckles and I need to glue/epoxy the ends on to the fullforce carbon fiber rods. What should I use? I'm not sure ca glue will be enough.

Permenant fix
 

I would just use red loctite if you are looking for a somewhat permenant connection that can be taken apart if you so wish down the road. The truck is looking very nice. Love the red anodized chassis.

That's very interesting. I never would have never thought of using that. Thanks for the compliment.

Where did you get the extra round things for use with tapered screws that help with mounting the bulkhead? I need to order about an extra 12.

I also had a stainless screw snap off in the bulkhead last night so I'm hoping FLM will work with me on it. Do you know if they'll warranty something like that? I've got a lot of money tied up in this and I only have the diffs assembled finally to only probably have To tear one apart now.


I broke it in the process of starting the first round of The build process then Im going to disasaemble it and assemble it using blue threadlock.

I've thought about going all out down the road as you did when I can afford it. Do you have a parts list you can pm or email me?? I'm curious as to how much you have in it minus the rims and anodizing? Pm me if you're willing to It's up to you and I also understand if you choose not to say. You can pm me that if you choose.

The counter sunk washers are from the RC monster store,
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmmbkit
I don't want to even think about how much I spent. I also don't have a total list of all parts. This has been an ongoing process that has taken almost a year. Long before I joined this forum I was already in the planing stages. It all started when I went to 6s with my original Emaxx brushless. Everything was fine with 4s I only had the occasional broken part. When I went to 6s I could not run the truck for more than a few minuets before something was broken. You can ask me about any part I have I will tell you. I just don't have enough time to come up with an entire list. I barely have enough time to work on my truck with my 4year old and 1 year old. I'm ready to complete this project maybe some day down the road I might have the time, but feel free to ask any questions about the truck, if i know or remember where or how much I will tell you. It sounds like your truck is very similar to mine. All you would need are UE a-arms, CVD's and knuckles. A center slipperential and basically you would have my truck.

Is that $4 for one of those upper bushings, the tapered one ? If not how many Do they put in ??

You mean these?
 

Try these out for size.


http://www.fastener-express.com/3mm-...ed-qty-25.aspx

Yes that is for one washer.
I found the ones from fastener-express after I bought the monster ones. I even had to anodize the two I'm using on the motor mount. So you can see why I don't want to think about how much I spent.

Are these about the same thing as the ones that come with the chassis? I did find the silver ones as well.

The only reason I went with the counter sunk washers is that I thought it would be a nice detail. No real purpose. I just think it looks good.

I need a 14mm wheel balancer. I have a balancer from dynamite but it's for 17mm hubs. The Hudy tool does not say what size the hubs are only 1/10, 1/8, 1/5th...etc. I don't want to buy one of those only to find out they will not fit. Any suggestions?

Try this
 

I purchased a Dubro prop balancer that I was able to setup for 14mm or 17mm. Check out this old thread.


http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...HEEL+BALANCING

Also that other link that I provided was for 25 washers per box.

I'd say email their support.

Make your own, I did. Mine looks like a bigger version of the dynamite one. I used a few pieces of 1/2 inch tubing (electrical conduit), welded it together (could be bolted instead) and a spare LST/aftershock knuckle and axle I had laying around. I had make my own because most MT tires are too tall and wide, truggy size is the limit for the balancers I've seen available.

Yes I think I will have to do that.

Well I just had to take the back half off of the chassis to get the center differential out of the truck( I did not think I was going to have to do that for a while), so I could add another wave spring to it. From one of the other threads it looks like three wave springs is the way to go for heavier trucks. It's now back together, and one half of my tires are glued waiting for them to dry. Does anyone know how long that takes? My carbon fiber turn buckles will have had enough time to cure around 1:00 today, and I will bolt those on, and then all I will have left are the front/rear skids, the front/rear bumpers, the motor, and electronics. Then I can punch the holes into the body. I will post pics soon.:party:

Not to sidetrack but I emailed FLM to see if they warranty broken bolts in the hybrid bulkheads. I don't want to buy the rear bulks. I'm going to take a lot more time to build this as I've decided to add a lot more parts after seeing yours.

Try these
 

You may want to try using a better grade of machine screw/bolt to avoid having this kind of problem. I have gone through every sort of hardware since getting seriously involved in R/C from stainless steel, to titanium, Tonys screw, Hexhead screws, as well as all grades of black steel screws. The best screws I have found are the grade 12.9 hard steel screws that you can find at a few hardware suppliers around the globe. The link below shows you just some of the screws I now use, and I have yet to strip or break one of these. If you want the best results, then you have to use the best tools and hardware to hold your expensive toy together. Lito turned me on to BoltDepot.com a couple of years ago, and I have not been disapointed yet. I have about $1000 in hardware from them in my R/C storage bins, and I have changed out everything on my trucks using their 12.9 grade screws. Everything looks clean, and everything works the way it should. These are hard steel and if you break these then you are torquing things down way to hard. If so start using a torque screwdriver to measure and torque your connections to the right level.

http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_sock...m_x_0.5mm.aspx