Mike, Are you still planning on offering shim kits for the slipperential?

Will other outdrive cups work in the slipperential? In other words will a stock Losi outdrive work in the slipperential? The outdrives on mine are junk. And I would really like to use it this weekend. Just wondering if anyone has tried something.

I actually cut half a bearing n use it as a spacer better than shimming.

Yes, we plan to offer shim kits - have some Orings coming to try out(quick, inexpensive option), but will make shims if they don't work out.

I would like some pics of where and how to shim.. I don't have one yet! But for sure I will! I'm new to the 1/8 th scale E thing... Just gettind my Losi 2.0 converted now! Have the losi E- conversion with the Tekin Esc and motor..... Like the slipper Idea... Have them in all my 1/10 scales!!

The Losi doesn't require any shimming between the bulks - it is a drop in fit. With the losi conversion, the entire center diff assembly needs to be spaced up about 1 mm to allow the spur to clear the chassis, but no other mods are required. :)

Ok I see thanks for the lightning quick reply! I'm saving to get one.... :mdr:

i am looking at this with very keen eyes. i have a nitro converted revo with all the MMM and NEU goodies running a 5s 18.5v lipo set. i have managed to lock my clutch bell to the flywheel whilst still retaining the elektro clutch as an adaptor via a diy mod with and aluminium billet. the only slip i have now is on the tranny with those 3 shoes. can the slipperential be used as a torque split diff like in rally cars. i can dial in how much front grip i get and how much later the rear wheels get power or a % of the power? my revo is insane to say the least and at this stage the tires act more like the slipper than anything else. i feel however its only a matter of time before the drive train will fail. wil this help me and is it a drop in fir for a converted revo 3.3?

very keen. :)

I have been running the Slipperential in my RC8e since they first came out. It is a very nice unit, but there are a few things I don't like/would like to see changed:

The teflon ring inside the spur gear wears very quickly and now the spur gear runs a bit off center, making tight spots in the gear mesh. I'll have to order extra teflon rings, but it would be nice if they lasted more than 2-3 weeks before letting the spur gear get off center.

The diff outdrives are WAY too big inside for RC8 dogbones. Any reason they were made so big? Or should I ask, what brand 1/8th uses diff outdrives with that large of an inside diameter? Unfortunately, stock RC8 diff outdrives are a bit too short to work, on at least the spur gear end.

The diff outdrives are supposed to be hardenend, and I guess they are or they'd wear out in 2 runs. But after only 3-4 weeks of racing, they are showing serious wear.

As a slipper pad material, plain fiberglass works OK, but it sure changes its slip characteristics when it gets hot. Was testing done with 'normal' slipper pad materials like Rulon or Teflon?

I haven't done back to back testing vs stock center diff yet. I'll have to reuild my stock with a 46T K car plastic spur gear to keep gearing the same, and see how it feels.

Off topic, but Stealth, what receiver box do you have installed? I have been rigging up an RC8e box to fit my Mugen MBX-6 but yours looks like what I wanted from the get go.

I was thinking to order some spares for my slip diff, wat will wear out first?

Slipper plates.

Good spares to have on hand IMO. Teflon rings, Slipper pads (both are considered consumable wear items) also not a bad idea to have an extra set of outdrives and extra gaskets.

wear items
 

Stealth(and others),
The Teflon bushing is the 1st point of wear - more slip will of course yield faster wear on this item - no way around it. We sell the replacements in packs of 3 for this reason. Anything that moves in conjunction with another part will wear of course. The wear items we suggest stocking are(in order of likely importance):
Teflon bushings
gaskets(possibly o-rings as well)
diff out drives(pending new out drives will fit typical bones better and last longer, but this is still a wear item)
Slipper pads
End caps(increased shaft angle will accelerate wear here - Losi 8 front for example)

The current outdrives accomodate a 9mm dogbone ball - this allows them to be used on the HPI Savage bones(and a few 1/8 truggies) and also "works" on the more typical 8mm bone. We are working on a harder, lightened out drive version with an 8mm outdrive bore for the more typical 1/8 center shafts. "one size fits all" was the intention initially. We are working on tweaks and will continue to do so. We are working on shimming scenarios for fitment in some larger diff openings, as well as other enhancements. The product will be tweaked and updated throughout is life, as every product is. :)

It's an RC10GT2 gas truck receiver box. I made a new top cover for it out of plexiglass, from when I had it mounted on my RCM chassis. I'm back to the stock chassis, with new holes drilled to move the center diff over 3/8". The RCM chassis was awesome, except for the bodies not fitting well and not keeping the dirt out.