Well, finished the motor mount. Came out pretty good. I "machined" the slot using this Dremel bit. It's a little smaller than the 1/8" I need, but that gives me a little room for error. Then it's just a matter of slowly and carefully grinding away.

The MM motor is from the Jato so don't mind the condition. It's just for test purposes. :)

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/crtp5_test1.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/crtp5_test2.jpg

it looks nice! where are you going to mount the mamba?

Thanks! Probably on top somewhere. I'm thinking of making an integrated top plate/ESC mount/Rx mount. Might even connect it to the battery tray to make everything sturdy.

Nice job! That motor mount looks like it was made by a pro - and nice idea using the brake caliper mounts for extra support.

I have another favor to ask though - could you get a picture of the servo and how it mounts? I saw the little extension tab there and was wondering if a larger servo would fit in the same spot. Or you could just measure the distance in between the servo mounts (which would be easier, and better).

Thanks Brian! :)

I think I've found my setup though. I'm going to run a 4S 3300mah Flightpower Pack on one side, and try to mount everything else on the otherside.

Lol, I don't know if it looks that good, but I'm happy with my Dremel work. :) The little "extension tab" you see in the pic is so you can use a Futaba servo. There are apparently two different sizes of "mini servos", one 3mm longer than the other. I didn't measure, but I can say with confidence that a standard servo will not fit there unless substantial mods and changes to layout are made. A full size servo looks like a monster in comparison. Just think of the little shifting servo that comes in a stock Revo and you get the idea.

4s on this little thing?! :dft002: You want to make it literally fly or something? :) I think I'll stick to a lower voltage setup because 2s of those 5Ah Maxamp cells will fit nicely in there. And I won't need a UBEC either, which makes it simpler.

Looks really good Brian! How thick is the mount, 3mm? Is there any flex?

Bye:018:

Well, I'll think about it. I want to do 4S, but I don't want to deal with the UBEC...its quite a decision.

That thing looks very nice! Sorry if you said this already, but how much was the CRT .5? Was it a roller, or a whole kit?

That was the ARTR kit, which consisted of everything except motor, electronics, etc. Basically just a rolling chassis. It goes for ~275-280.

There is also a RTR kit which is due to come out sometime in the near future.

I think I've got my CRT .5 setup nearly figured out. I'm going with the MM ESC and LMT 1530.

For batteries, I'm thinking of using my current Maxamps 8K 2S2P's if they don't sell. They are a bit heavy, but I'll get some MAJOR runtime and they will easily supply enough current.

@cemetary: It's actually ~3.5mm thick. I use the same material and setup in the Jato and am still using the same spur as when I got it and I've run it dozens and dozens of times with no issues. So, if there is any flex, it's very minimal. Besides, the motor is shorter (less hanging off the back) and lighter, so there are far fewer stresses on the mount, even when landing from a jump.

@BP-Revo: Don't let the UBEC sway your decision! Sure, it adds a little extra wiring, but not too bad if routed right. Besides, you could get a high turn motor on 4s and have tons of runtime even with only a 1p setup. I'm going 2s mainly for the size of the cells and the weight. The BEC part is secondary really.

@green24: BP is right, ~$275 for the "pro" kit which comes with the F/R ends assembled. You just have to assemble the shocks and servo area. It doesn't come with any electrics (servo, receiver, etc) and no motor. Perfect for BL conversion! :) The RTR will come with just about everything to run, but will have fewer of the hop-up parts pre-installed - like the CF servo area, upgraded chassis, etc. Only the pro kit is out right now and even then they seem to be a bit hard to get a hold of. My LHS said that Ofna should be shipping the next batch if they haven't already.

BP: let me know how that LMT works for you. I am just using the MM 4600 for now to see how it runs and how much power it has/needs. It should run quite cool since this will weigh about the same as the Jato (using the same motor/ESC/voltage) but not go as fast.

I'll let you know how the LMT works - but take note I won't have it for a while. I really want to get the CRT.5 in my hands so I figure out my setup and order the motor (since the motor will take ages to get here).

I guess I'll go with 4S. I wanted to from the beginning - I'm going to go post a thread on UBEC's now...since I can't find any that suit my need.

If Mike's UBEC won't work for you (it is kinda big), I've used this UBEC with good results so far (just the BEC in the link, not the ESC :)). I took off the heatshrink and studied the circuit. The IC it uses is a nice chip and the circuit design is pretty much verbatum from the IC datasheet suggested circuit setup. Very simple circuit too. I put on longer wire and re-heatshrinked it and it has worked great. However, I always use a capacitor on the AUX channel on the RX to help filter any switching noise.

These UBECs appear on eBay from time to time for about $10-$15 shipped. I have seen them at other online stores, but can't recall which at the moment.

Don't get me wrong; I'm not trying to steer business away from Mike, it's just that the Koolflight UBEC is kinda large for such a small vehicle.

Thats the one I have as well, Brian. I added different wires and reshrunk it as well (didn't like the red). BP, check the other thread. I suggest you use the ParkBEC from Dimension Engineering. Its super small...

The mount looks great Brian. Its hard to tell from the pictures how big it is, but it seems as if you will have a pretty close fit withe the rest of the electronics. Anyways, good luck finishing it, and can't wait to finally see it run!! :027:

The mount is exactly the height of the CD mounts, and it goes almost to the edge of the chassis (actually, it goes to where the edge starts bending up). The batts are going to go on the other side and the electrics are going to go on top of a custom top plate. Actually, I did notice there is a little flex in the chassis (no more than normal for buggies really), so I think I'm going to make a top plate that hooks to the front and rear diff areas to stiffen it up. This will also give me plenty of room to mount the MM ESC and Spektrum Rx.