:gasp: OMG, that poor e-maxx.
Tip-throttle control can keep the car flying with the wheels towards the ground :yes:. Poor, poor e-maxx...

:yes: I need a ramp to practice. :lol:

Not done yet
 

I just thought I would update this thread. Some new parts began to arrive today:

FLM extended chassis
FLM shock towers

Later this week:

UE SuperShocks
FLM hybrid bulks
Hot Bodies 1/8 diffs

Still to install:

Strobe slipper
Onfa 51t spur
20t pinion

ESC changes:

Turn on freewheeling

Matbe I'll be done after this...:rofl:

I think there was a film named after this build.....

"The neverending story"

:D

I would think that 20T pinion will run a tad hot with the 1515 1/y. I would go 16T personally.

Maybe but with a 52t mod1 Associated gear and a 17t pinion I have not been above 130 degrees.

Odd....what batts are you running? 52 associated on a strobe???

I think he means a MGT 52t spur on the stock slipper clutch.

I have not installed the Strobe yet. MetalMan is correct the 52t is used with stock slipper plates, Associated slipper balls and a heavy duty spring(sprong?) I wasn't sure if that would hold so I got a Strobe with the 51t and a 20t pinion(the 19t were out of stock).

I use two 2s1p TrakPower LiPo batts.

Where did you get your UE shocks, Mark? They were out of stock last time I checked at UE. Your gonna love it even more.

ebay! Had to take a chance. I needed them and UE is out:grrrrrr:

I got my hybrid bulks and HB diffs. I currently have 3.3 shafts. Do you think I should keep the 3.3 shaft or up grade to CVDs?

The HB diff fit perfect in the bulk. It looks like no shimming required. It would be so easy to just shim the pinion, lube and then bolt it together. A cvd upgrade would also end my shock rubbing problem.

On the other hand the 3.3 shafts are inexpensive, light weight and allow for a little give in my drive train. I would have to take the diff apart to put in the 3.3 output shafts and change out my shocks.

So what would you all advise?

if you want 3.3 CVDS that work with your vehicle i suggest you give the MIP 3.3 ones a try. The old mip ones have broken for some but the new ones are much beefier than the old ones. I am running hybrids and mips and the same motor combo as you and for the little bit i ran them they held up fine. I personally would stay with the sliders. they are cheaper, just as strong, gives some give(but with the new diffs it is not totally necessary), and they work right now, How ever if the sliders are rubbing and wearing down i would suggest maybe going the CVDS route. If you can get your hands on some UE ones that is the best option.

If you are looking for a good monster GT spur, i got a white machined one from delrin for about 12 bucks including shipping.

Which size UE will fit my 3.3 E-Maxx?