+1 on the WK for a first timer RC. Durable as all hell and lots O fun !
Even the experienced RCer will enjoy the simplicity and charm of the WK.

Thanx for the tips guys! I've got some of the electronics left over from other things so that sounds great! The WK it is then!

I had a good 25 runs in with only a broken lower arm due to a previous crash that has now been fixed, so it shouldn't happen as easily anymore. Bottom line, I'm having a great time with it, video soon...

WooHoo! Guess what I just got?

A brand spanking New-In-Package Gorillamaxx G1 single-speed conversion kit, for just $42.99 shipped!

I have been trying to find one of these for what seems like forever now, and I finally came across one! And as if being NIP wasn't good enough, it also had a BIN of only $42.99 with free shipping, and that was just icing on the already very delicious cake! I went ahead and bought it right then! Man, I haven't been this excited about an RC part since the last time I finally found a NIB version of one of my very first real RC cars!

I had been using the typical search terms of "gorillamaxx", "gorilla maxx", and had even tried a few misspelled terms like "gorilamaxx", "gorilamax", and "gorila maxx", but none of them ever turned up what I was looking for. Well, for some reason, last night I tried the different misspelled search term "gorila max", and BAM...not just one conversion kit, but two of them! One was a NIP kit (the one I bought using BIN) and the other was a kit that had already been installed on a transmission, and included the G1 kit, plastic transmission half-case, stock gears, drive-cups, motor plate, and motor cover! Plus, it had never been used, just installed on a shelf-queen and never driven. I bid on it, but it quickly went up to over $120, and since I had just bought a NIP one, I had no need to bid any higher than that.

Anyway, I am so excited, and I will be using this thread as a guide to get it working silky-smooth. I haven't decided if I want to run a stock plastic half-case, or if I want to run an aluminum half-case.

http://i.ebayimg.com/16/!BYSk5lg!mk~...2I3vw~~_12.JPG

http://i.ebayimg.com/21/!BYSlC+!BGk~...WYu9w~~_12.JPG

http://i.ebayimg.com/16/!BYSkviw!2k~...UfO2Q~~_12.JPG

Plastic halfcase is fine, all I would do is use longer mounting bolts where possible with nyloc nuts on the other end to mount the tranny to the chassis rails, stops it getting ripped out the truck in a violent crash.

I prefer to run Tony's threaded brass inserts in my transmission mounting holes! ;)

Swine!

:lol:

Good find chad I used the stock half case and it works perfect. I guess the billet half case doesnt fit just right and I didnt want to hassle it.

Zack my stock half case has been through hell and back and is still working like a charm. You have seen the beating my truck takes...:whistle:

Stock plastic half-case it is, then!

Mark, couldnt run the plastic because it was allowing my motor to hit my MMM hard on landings. Remember??? Where you at man? I worked this out weeks ago. I am using the aluminum FLM half case with stunning effiency now after working on it quite a while. All documented here. Thanx though. I know have an idea you are super busy! You are still my hero! LOL

Chad are you kidding??? Remember when I got mine? Got mine straight from GM. They were instock up to just a few weeks ago. What was your first car?

Nitrostarter! Did you go to the Foley track?!! Sorry I was able to get up with you!

Sure didnt. I stayed on the beach from Thursday evening until Saturday night with a bottle of Captain and a couple of Coke's. The was fun until TS Claudette came ruin my time. Good thing we were leaving Sunday morning anyways.

I'm getting up enough confidence now to try a video! After some 20 odd runs with no serious breakage, I think its time.

What is the consensus on using 4 UE Super Shocks 80wt fluid stiff springs with 4 TRX Big Bores with 60wt and stiff springs?

How heavy is your E-Maxx?

Have you tried lighter oil in the UE's? like 60-70wt?

Well with 4 UE shocks its 11.3 pounds rtr with body and batts. Its a good weight. But problem is it bottoms out after any 10 INCH drop. That sucks, right??!!! I was thinking that it shouldnt bottom out until like a good 4-5 FOOT drop!! I'm I way off base here?

I think it would be a combination of the shock oil, spring pre-load, RTR weight of the truck and of course the overall height of the rig.
You will have to do some experimenting with setup until you find some combination that works...

Alien

Well yeah. DUH. And believe me I have. But is 10in bottom good/right. Or is my goal of 4 foot accurate? LOL Maybe the little white discs in the shocks have holes that are too big. I know I'm talking short but I'm I making sense?

I noticed that you want to hit the track some. Remember that almost all jumps have landing ramps made to help out on the landing. You have to use those to supplement the vehicle's suspension. Its a big difference than dropping the truck straight down with no momentum nor landing ramp.

With that said, are you using the stiffest springs? with preload?

Bottoming out isn't all that bad either. Just make sure the shocks aren't bottoming out when it happens.

All true. And for the track in Foley my truck is perfect as the track has only two small jumps (kind of a boring track, although fast.)

Stiffest Black in the back. and Blue next stiffest in the front, with alittle on preload on both ends simply to get a good heigth.

Four Supershocks is ALL you need. For an 11.5lb truck, I would run 65wt oil front and rear with blue springs front and black springs rear...you do have the UE Supershock spring set, right?

I have never seen them in stock...I have heard about them being in stock, but every time I got to the site, they were sold out. I bid on and lost 4 or 5 G1 kits on eBay, but just happened to come across this NIP kit only a few minutes after the seller had posted it on eBay.

I had a ton of the cheaper toy-grade RC cars first, but my very first hobby-grade car was the Cox Scorpion (same as Kyosho Scorpion), which I got in 1981. It was used, but in really good condition, because my dad got it from a guy he worked with shortly after he got it new (it was electric). My next car was a Cox Assault (same as Kyosho Assault), which I got in 1983. It came from the same guy my dad worked with, and it was also in pretty good shape, because the guy bought it and didn't like how hard it was to keep a nitro engine running well (it was nitro). But, the car that really means a lot to me, was the very first car I bought with my own money and assembled myself, a Futaba FX10! It was built for Futaba by Tamiya, and was based on the Tamiya Stryker.

I have 2 blue 2 black, and 2 red. My truck is thicker in oil than yours was. How quickly did yours bottom? Like how much of a drop did it take b4 bottoming?

I have never seen it outa stock until today. I'm glad you got one.

Do you have any photos of your current suspension setup (showing pre-load and geometry)?

I will take pics tonight and post up 2moro.

Thanx guys! RCM, is the best. Its a given. A given. :yipi::intello:

Still wanting Lito's words.

Lito is the man!

Skids are supposed to hit the ground once in a while that why they are called skids. lol I run black in the back and blue up front also in my 11# truck. Thicker oil will slow the suspension down possibly preventing bottoming out.

One of the hardest things to make people understand is that they are supposed to bottom out, they were designed to bottom out. If the shocks ran out of travel before the chassis hit the ground, the shocks would blow apart on every jump! Of course, they aren't supposed to slam into the ground with massive force, but they are supposed to hit the ground.

River and Chad. You are absolutely right. We both sound like we have had similar setups suspension wise... so how much of a drop did it take to bottom? Pics later.

River, I run 80wt.

Zack, like I said previously, bottoming out isn't bad. And its 2 different things to bottom out while driving and bottom out while someone drops it from the sky.

I think you need to take you setup to the track and see how it does on the jumps. And remember, jumps were made for you to use the landing ramps. It supplements the Trucks suspension.

I would say that a properly setup suspension should allow the skids to just barely tap the ground when dropped from about 4 feet.

I got banned from TRX.

Just create a new account.

I've been a member since July 2002 there! Yay! no banning for me!

They must be clearing out the forums I got banned also. Because I had two sign in names. How do they know my son doesnt go on the forum with a different name.

When & why did that happen? :lol:

...o master of Trx banning!


zack: go hit the track and see how the suspension performs!!!!

They gave me a 20% warning for saying ass which by definition is a donkey. That place is way too strict.

I got a 40% warn for saying in reply to someone being offended by my post, "dude calm down, I wasn't trying to be a prick"

They lit me up with a warning for calling myself a prick. LOL

I got pricked by a cactus while riding a jackass.=40% warning points. lol!

Hilarious stuff guys! LOL.

Um... turns out I was banned because of my email provider, MSN Hotmail, being free "it is prone to spam". Anyway I wined to Misbehavin' and I think he got it sorted out where I could keep hotmail. Needless to say I'm back on with everything like it was. And why do I want to stay? LOL Thats a good question... Nah it okay over there some times.

It's the principle of the thing, you got banned for nothing. It has to make you feel guilty though, getting banned. Not like it's a big loss but still...