I read the whole thread for the most part, and clearly got the idea that traction is your biggest problem. I didn't see it mentioned, so I'm just gonna throw it out there. Did you ever try or consider traction compound? Its supposed to work extremely well on the foam tires, but I haven't tried it, so I can't say for sure.

It's very much a Maxx.

I didn't make the rules. But i did follow them. Lots of e-maxx parts in that truck even old school rpm short arms.

way cool
 

with out a dought it is a VERY cool truck.. something came to me ( ill bet you all ready thought of it ) is stopping it safely going to be just as hard as going fast?

Definatly dont want the wheels to lock up. I had the setting for the brakes at about 30%. Nic Case 156 mph pass took up allmost the whole 1/2 mile and I believe he just let it cost too the end with maybe a little drag.

I mention traction being my biggest issue multiple times. I am not sure about traction compounds but it probably would of helped.

did i miss you saying how much nitro it will be running on? i had an idea to set up my t-maxx to do an endurance run. what think?

What are you talking about?

none. It's electric. I don't understand you. It ran on 22.2 volts and a brushless motor. Have you read the thread?

It would have but it also wears the foam compound very quickly

I fixed your post. :whistle:

-Zack

EDIT: I'm not fixing these:

You have not a clue. It's okay hang around here for 6 months or so, it will come. Welcome to RCM!

It's an E-Maxx. Harold already told you. Its shocking how nitro is the new slow isn't it?

Duuuuude. Pass that doobie over my way. :whistle:

Geez it must be that cush bud hehe. I sure hope he meant the nitro left on the track from the previouse drag race event LOL! If so I believe there was a thin layer still left on the track, so its running on not much nitro at all lol. My competator was running on 30% nitro and his best pass was like 76mph with a 2 speed buggy. quite a few on road nitro cars broke 100mph + that day.

We use traction compound on our 1/10 trucks foam tires for carpet racing.

This is what I am using right now. It is some nice stuff, but they went crazy on pricing recently.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Tire-Traction

I have used this in the past. As a FYI it has a strong ordor, most tracks ban it.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ction-Compound

A friend is using this one and he likes it so far.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...on-Formula-4oz

I think you need to re-think your approach.

It's all very well and good having skinny wheels and tires but you are severely limiting your contact patch and overall grip for slightly less frontal area on something that's as aerodynamic as a widened brick anyway. Your truck is also much too light. You have enough power to break 100 easily, you don't need the truck to be ultra light (11lb WITH two 6s packs is ultra light) for a run. Thrust ssc 2 weighed 10.3 tons... Didn't stop it breaking the sound barrier. JZEmaxx's truck was fast not because it was super light or amazingly aerodynamic, but because it was a converted 20lb MMT with a huge motor and lipos strapped to it. Even then he was still having trouble with airflow and the front lifting.

At the end of the day, weight affects acceleration, handling and braking, top speed should remain relatively unchanged. What weight will affect is how much mechanical grip you have, and how easy it is to keep on the ground. Shove 5lbs of lead on the nose and tail of it. I guarantee it will be faster and easier to control. Better yet, stick weights on the inside of the wheels and rebalance them. Increased gyroscopic effect should help it track straight. You can scale a car down but you cannot scale down the laws of physics, the forces acting on these vehicles are very much the same as those acting on a real car at 80mph, it's just that the real car will weigh 1500kg. The heavier a car is, the more difficulty the forces acting upon it will have upsetting it.

Provided you have the power to overcome the inertia provided by the weight (which you do) you will have a more easily controlled and less prone to wheelslip vehicle.

Aerodynamics are a black art in RC, very few have access to wind tunnels and whilst there is nothing to stop you taping an assembly to the back of the truck that you reckon might aid it at high speed, you have no real idea of whether you are hindering it or helping it. I ran a high speed full bodied Slash for a while, anyone an stick a big motor in a Slash with a recognisable Slash body shell on it, but have you ever tried getting the damn thing to stay on the floor? 45mph is around the limit for that Slash shell before it's aero wheelying, I finished up at 75mph with a modified hardcore Proline shell and a lexan undertray. 4s only I don't think it was a bad effort.

http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7249/gl21379.jpg

I saw the pictures nevermind River. Looks good. Do you think if I used revo shocks that I could mount the shocks further down on the duh towers to make the suspension arms more than level and still bottom correctly? Be honest what I'm really asking is do you think it would race? Jumps and everything?

My suspension was fairly level wasnt it? I need to look at the pics now lol. The short revo shocks are going to make you lose some travel I would think. The only thing is I used old rpm arms not the wide versions so the geometry might be better. I think the short buggy shock might be better and give you more travel. I think Suicideneil knows more than me.

Do you think I could obtain THIS amount of travel?

It wouldn't be a good race setup due to the reduced travel. The duh towers and revo shocks are however the bomb diggity high speed on road setup. It was always my plan to run duh towers and revo shocks on my maxxler chassis but plettenbergs never made them. *cough**cough*

What about four buggy shocks, stiffer springs with ~60wt oil?

I doubt you could tune shocks to do what I think you want them to

It would be easier to have 1 set for speed runs & 1 set for racing...if that's what you're getting at?

I'm not looking for a speed set up at all. Just a setup like my link above.

Actually I was going to ditch them and run solid turnbuckles if I ever did it again. No need for suspension on straight flat road. I had alot of issues with torque steer.
Zack, If you want to run these short towers I think the short front ofna buggy shock are your best bet. They should have similar travel to your set up you showed. If you want you can buy them and the short shocks and if they dont work for you send them back for a refund or sell them for a profit on the bay.I only ask you to pay shipping both ways.You know these towers are really hard to find once they are gone good luck finding them again.

Thats cool to hear about the solid turnbuckle thing. Makes good sense to me. Judging from THESE PICTURES It looks like my Proline shocks will work. Do you think I should ask him?

That was one of my most favorite trucks, that thing is just sick.

Zack- You're one of the special few that Robin lets in his secret society. (I cannot see the link above, I have no UE access)

I've e-mailed him several times and never once received a response. For this reason I boycott all UE products. FLM is as good or better, the parts simply lack the polishing and clearcoat (bling) that UE has. Kinda silly on Robin's part, I spend about $4k a year on R/C.

***rant over***

Knuckleheads and supershocks are the best setup. I know you just want to try the duh towers, but since they are lower they are just going to raise your ride height. Which in turn will raise your COG and greatly reduce your stability.

If you want to try them, get them. You already have the best setup though.

Harold send me your info let me see what I can do. As far as flm being better I dont think so. Heres some #'s why 7075 vrs 6061. If zack shortens his shocks at the same time his cog will be improved. But I believe he will lose suspension travel which isn't all needed anyway.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...1/DSCN2518.jpg
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...1/DSCN2523.jpg
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...1/DSCN2521.jpg

My concern now is where or not 007's (above) can even bottom out. Judging from the pictures honestly it doesn't look like it. Seems like 007 had and made alot of good parts but never really understood suspension all that well. I have done alot of reading on UE. Probably did to much. Although I could probably get 4 buggy shocks for 60 dollars and fill them with 80wt and then buy the stiffest spring pack, although I understand that proline springs fit 8B&T shock bodies.

@Paralyzed: He has lost most of his zeal even before I join. His passions are in other places now.

Why does it need to bottom out. It looks like he has a couple holes left for the shocks to go up ont towers and out on the arms anyway.

The shocks clearly are already conpressed in the picture, semi-nearly to their end. Right after a jump, the chassis should be able to bottom, otherwise the shocks may blow or get damaged. Yeah I see the holes. It gives me hope.

Well I listed them and a bunch of parts on here and UE so if want them you better buy them now. If not don't say I didn't try.

Dibbs.

Send me your paypal addy. You should get a mod to delete all but the important stuff from this convo if it bothers you. I'm sorry. But my inbox has been full for like 2 years and it pains me to delete stuff out of it, that is part of the reason I have posted here alot in stead of on PM