It seems that some MMs fare better with the Neu motors than others do. I haven't heard from the guys at S&T. They got my Quark last Wednesday, but haven't heard anything from them; and I sent my Compro back to the Czech Rep a few weeks ago, but I'm not holding my breath on that either.

If I get a Neu, I'm going to have to run it on a MM. I have one particular MM that seems to out perform all of the others. It handles 5S like a charm and seems to tolerate more gearing than the other four that I have. I'm hoping that this particular unit will treat me right.

That sucks that you have two controllers go on you like that. I am itching to get mine back, BL power is ADDDDIIICCCTIVE! :018:

I am going on a trip for a couple days AAngel, let me know how much the shipping was? :dft009:

I know about brushless being addictive. I see my MM/9XL setup as being mild. I call it a "track setup." I was out at the track today and everyone kept talking about how fast it is. They just have no idea.

I was tempted to drop the 5S pack in it, but thought better of it. I'm already meeting with a tad bit of resistance from those who just might be intimidated. I hate to say it, but there are some who buy the edge with super fast engines, rather than practice. If they knew that all I had to do to keep up with a faster crowd was to change battery packs, I don't know what they'd say.

I really do love my brushless. I can't wait to get on my CRT .5 project. I'm going to run it in 1/10 scale electric truck class. They can't say anything about that, for now. I'm sure that when they see that little truck handling turns and taking jumps like an 1/8 scale truggy, some will find a reason to complain. Then on the other hand, I may just get a bunch of questions on how they could build their own. That's what I'd prefer.

Are they going to let you run 4 wheel drive in electric truck class? My local hobby shop wouldn't let me run my HPI MT2 conversion in the electric truck class because it is 4 wheel drive. They would if I took out front driveshaft, but that would suck. I really think 4 wheel drive is a must with brushless!

That seems silly, having a truck class and not being able to use 4wd. Aren't trucks ment to be 4wd?.....

1:1 Stadium trucks race in 4wd and 2wd classes.

Bah, far too many classes for my liking- just chuck 'em all in an arena, & whoevers still moving at the end is the winner. Oh wait thats robotwars.... in rc racing are stadium trucks 2 or 4wd, or both? If bdebde wasnt allowed a BL 4wd in a 2wd race, fair enough. But if it was because he was running 4wd BL and that might give him an advantage over the 4wd nitros- thats unfair.

All 1/10th stadium trucks used for racing are 2 wheel drive, even nitro.

Ah, I see. I take it the HPI MT2 isnt a staduim truck as such then... that would be why they wanted you to take front drive shaft out, to level the playng field. Bah....

Cartwheels- got my caps today, they do look very good quality so should hopefully do some good. Im assuming guys that using the low esr 330uf 25v jobbies will be fine in conjunction with the big 2700uf cap that is standard on the HVMaxx? If you dont here from me again you'll know it didnt go well....

I run in a small club. They'll likely let me run at least the first couple of races, until I get used to it. They won't say anything until I start winning.

Does anyone know what the usual running temp is for a Quark Monster Pro?

BrianG, have you recieved your caps yet? Let us know how they work for you?! :027:

Yeah, I received them about a week ago, but haven't had a chance to see what I can do with them. I'm in the middle of redoing the Jato layout to use lipos and so it has more weight in the rear. Maybe I'll throw a couple of caps on that, even though it ran fine before...

Well, I got my caps from Cartwheels and decided to add 4 to the HvMaxx. I could have added more, but 4 is a nice number, and I want to leave some for future projects, when I get a Quark/MMM/Velineon4/5s??? even. I was planning on running it today but the weather was a gainst me, typical. Next week hopefully I will get the chance to see if it made any difference- I had it up on the shoe box and gave it a quick test = everything works like it should so I didnt blow it up at least.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...capacitors.jpg

I used some regular epoxy to keep the caps together & insulate the exposed leads, then wrapped some electrical tape around the bases of the caps to be certain. Removed the fan from the esc but left its plastic grey mount, which the cap assembly got ziptied to. Also shortend the cap power wires by an inch or so- very neat I reckon....

OK, I was running my Quark yesterday and I got the same symtoms as ZPB. No torque. I opened the case and the internal caps were puffed. Since I did the "mod" I'm going to have to remove the slab from the case and try to replace the internal caps. I may also take this opportunity to "extend" the case to allow for more caps and possibly put 5.5mm sockets on the pcb so that I can remove the power leads should I need to...or is adding the sockets a bad idea?

Oh, will the blown internal caps cause the esc to act the way it is, or did I blow something else. I was trying to get my quark to work without thermalling, so I was running without the "cap bank." I was running it easy. 4S, 14/46 on a 9XL and taking it easy around the track.

I've gotta say, I haven't been impresses with the Monster Pro at all.

If you can get to the internal caps to desolder & replace them then by all means do- how much does Quark charge to fix a moded esc, or wont they?

personally i think it would be easier to jus cut the legs on the caps and then put a bunch of caps connected externally should work just as well.

Oh man AAngel! :019: You are having such bad luck with your controllers! I feel for you man! I really do!

Unfortunately, you probably damaged other parts of the ESC itself. That's what Frank told me, and just said for me to send it in for replacement.

I thought you were going to put the caps on it like I was going to? :032:

That looks pretty good Suicideniel.

Please don't tell me that is your antenna wire running along in that pic?! :eek:

Well, I had the caps on it, but was having thermal troubles. I took the cap bank off to do the cooling mod and was running it after having done the mod, without the cap bank. I didn't think it would make a difference taking it easy. I just didn't want to have to go soldering on the power leads again and wanted to make sure that all was well before I soldered the bank back on.

Anyway...check out my pleasantly plumped caps...

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0285.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0286.jpg

OK, so am I to understand that replacing the caps won't fix this thing? Is S&T going to fix your esc even though the cooling mod had been performed? If they are willing to take it back AGAIN, I'll just reassemble it and wait for a return email.

Oh, I don't smell anything burnt. Maybe it is just the caps. I'm just itching to get this thing up and running.

Actually, I doesn't look like they 'blew', there is no electrolyte anywhere, is there?

If not, then it might be okay.

If you are able to get the heat spreader off of that, would you be interested in the custom case I had designed? It should never ever thermal with it, or at least that what it looks like. :027:

BTW, what epoxy did you use? Is that your homemade stuff?

Cheers. One of those wires is the antenna, but believe it or not there is no glitching or anything, since the radio was ment for a plane the aerial wire is about 2 foot long- had to bundle it up abit (wouldnt dream of cutting it down). I just want some good weather to take it out and do a proper test run....:007:

rainy UK... :024:

Same old same old. When Im working its usually beautiful and sunny outside. When its my day off the sky turns grey- it might not actually rain, but its so gloomy I wouldnt want to walk all the way to my spot then risk it start raining on me. No problem though; its a rollover on the lottery tonight so when I win £7,000,000 I'll just buy a nice barnconversion or bungalow with a few acres of land & build a giant glass roof over the top, that way the grass still gets sunlight, and I can drive the truck without getting wet.:027:

AAngel... Before you start removing the caps, call S&T. I've heard a few mention that they warantied the controller even tough it had been modified. Worth a try before making more mods IMO.

jhautz, too late. I already replaced the caps. I did a preliminary install on the esc and the zip appears to be back. When I hit the throttle, it winds right up and balloons the tires.

The caps that we got, however, are taller than the stock caps. It will just barely fit into the case. I decided to do a couple of "upgrades" anyway. I'm going to wire it all up and take it out to the track to see what happens.

Some pics...

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0287.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0288.jpg

I added the 5.5mm connectors because it will give me a good base for the additon of the cap bank and I like the idea of being able to replace the battery leads without having to tear everything apart to get to them.

I am, however, a bit concerned about the weight of those connectors on the pcb. Being banged around in the track may prove to be too much for the pcb to stand. I'm going to try to reinforce them somehow. If I can't come up with a satisfactory way to do that, the connectors are going to have to come off.

I also have to say that replacing the caps was a snap. It literally took me a couple of minutes, after I had the esc apart.

ZPB, I used arctic alumina. No homemade stuff for this application.

I did save all of the stock parts. That way, if all is not well, I can just put it back to the way it was and send it back.

Dude, cool. What were the specs o the original caps again vs the new ones?
As far as supporting the gold connectors goes- if the pcb is braced nice and firm inside the esc case, then all that needs doing is bracing the battery wires close to the esc case too = zero flex near the esc will mean no stress on the pcb. I would ziptie down the wires to part of the chassis or a custom little 'mount' just along from the esc, and make sure the esc is mounted solidly too, then you will have no problems what so ever. The main thing is to prevent the pcb from shifting in the case, and stopping the wires from flexing near to the esc- a 'no movement zone' if you like....

http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/s...ini/pict_f.htm

Those are the caps Suicideneil. PM series is the same as PL series.

DANG AAngel! You have confirmed to me that I think I will do the 5.5mm mod to mine when I get my custom case made... when I get my Quark back....IF I know that two of those caps will do the job.

Do you think you could do a test of running without the case on it? To see how hot the caps get, and the top set of FET's? thanks

Looks great! I don't think the connectors are going to stress anything, although it wouldn't hurt putting something in between the connectors in case they get hit, to prevent it from bending.

OK, I test ran it and all seems ok. I, at this point, believe the the only problem was the caps. I left the esc out of the case and wrapped it in shrink wrap and epoxied the aluminum slab directly to a piece of 1/4" aluminum which is mounted to my chassis.

For some reason, I'm not liking it. The Quark PCB seems very weak with lots of flexing. I'm going to see if I can machine a delrin support for the connectors and pcb. If I can, I may just run it without the case to keep things cooler. I have to say at this point, that the Quarks do generate some heat.

A couple of pics...

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0289.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0290.jpg

Any constructive critism? I think I've gone overboard with this rather expensive of equipment.

Oh, perhaps I could just cut the stock case to make everything fit, but that would surely void any warranty that may still apply. As it stands now, I could still go back to stock, but if I cut the case, there won't be any going back.

I would make a longer mount so that the whole pcb & connectors are supported/protected. Still mount it too a thick piece of alloy though for better cooling, just incorporate that into mount. I wouldnt mess with the case though just incase it does need repair at some point. What about a piece of alloy box section abit bigger than the case is, and mount the pcb inside that (with a window cut into it for programing ). It would protect the whole pcb and provide a massive surface area for cooling.

OK, I just ran the Quark with a total of four caps. I ran it for 5 minutes as though I was trying to break it. 50' sprints back and forth with the 9XL geared 13/46 with a maxamps 4S 8Ah pack.

The sink temped at 135, the center heat spreader was at 145, and the caps were at 150. The lead connectors were also at 150. I'm wondering if the power leads are heating up the capacitors or vise versa. I think that more caps are definitely in order. I'm going to have to figure out how I'm going to mount this thing. I am now believing that the stock case is less than ideal.

I just can't figure out how so many are running the Quark without heat issues or adding caps.

Looks not bad.

ppkkskskshhhh, no one having heat issues with the Quark?! :005:


Can you read any brand or markings on the stock caps? I would like to find out the specs on them.

The stock case is a piece if you ask me, no way for the heat to escape. I am getting so anxious for my Quark to get back, I want to get my new case machined up. I am still trying to figure out a good way to add caps to it that will secure them well.

150 for the caps is pretty good, they are rated for 221F operation. And 135 for the ESC is great as well.

Oh, and I just realized that is quite dangerous with the female plugs on the esc, and male on the batts...

Looks good. I think you are going in a good direction. You could put something in between the 2 connectors and use some bigger shrink tubing go around both 5.5 connectors to tie the both together structurally. It would also be good for protecting the bare ends of the 5.5 cons.

If you still want to use the case you might have to remove the connectors all together and maybe just use 2 sets of wire. One for the batteries and one for the caps, providing you can get both sets of wire to fit through the case.

What about using a Deans plug?

Well, I had it all setup. I had done a test run and all was ok. I got the esc mounted in the new case, plugged it in and...nothing. What the heck. I unplugged everything and checked everything and noticed that the top pcb had pulled out of a socket of some sort on the bottom pcb. I pushed it back in and hooked everything back up and...SMOKE.

Oh well. Back to the MM and nice cool running.

I thought that the two pcbs were supposed to be soldered together. Why would they separate like that. Maybe the guy that soldered the motor leads on did the pcbs too.

Man, you really have bad luck with this stuff!

Anyway, the boards are connected by pins going through each board. On one end, the pins are soldered to both boards, so they won't come apart short of desoldering the pins. On the other end (near the caps) it is a socket/pin setup, so they can seperate.

i suggest NCC KZM series 470uf/35v caps ,it's more better PL
size fit stock size.

here is picture