To late man you been a jerk from the last two and to 3 posts, maybe the problem is that you have been on forums for the last 10 years and expect to much.

If you read the thread lots of your answers are there, sorry if those pictures aren't self explanatory enough for you....I would think that most people would notice that one picture there's no chassis then the next picture the chassis is there.... AND then the next picture the chassis is smaller and the sides are bent up:whistle:

And finally there's shock towers and some shocks in the picture:yipi:

again this is not a right up how to, the diffs were the WHOLE entire reason for this thread THE TRUCK IS A AFTER THOUGHT as in it was randomly built with parts lying around in parts bins....

So to answer one of your questions.... I dont care if the thread/build was random, BTW nice stealth editing...

its me, Did your Cheese fall off your cracker ?
"I'm the jerk " , because like everyone else I ask questions..>:no:
You mean the amazing Losi diff write up that Emaxx_Quebec did on Page 17
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...&postcount=212

So many people asking questions all the way through the thread. I'm just being blunt.


People do say they are strong
Just thought I would let people know there are real Helical gears available.

Hmm..... again try it for your self, the gear has a slight helical cut... BTW do some reading on helical cut gears with out runners, I wouldnt want to use a helical cut gear like hot boddies/ kyosho/ because of side load...

Again you edited, emax Quebec like you asked in a PM about posting pics.. I told him sure!! his pics are great along with his info, grinding down the shafts I dont remember doing?
Remember this idea was never tested before, it was a spur of the moment... trial and error... I still cant understand why your getting frustrated, I even answered your PM's and yet you insist to act like a jerk because I didn't tell you in detail exactly what I did.. what more detail do you need about things I did then the pictures!?!?!? The diffs-- All I did was cut some 1/2 PVC and dremeled it to fit, Absolutely nothing special about that.

The a-arms--- I modified the bulks to fit the upper arms, hell I wasnt even sure that I was going to keep it like that so why would I go into detail about that....

Shocks on my twin LST--- its a LST..... I dont think I needed to explain that.

See what im saying? I also never minded you asking questions but did you really need to have a attitude about it?

No part number or link for your magic helical gears? What kind of crap is that? I hate it when people post "teaser pics" of stuff and them make me look around for like 30 seconds to find them on some other site. Its like people have no idea how lazy I am. I really think all build threads should have a parts list and exploded diagrams at the end of every post, just so I do not have to read too much, it hurts my eyes.



:tongue::na:

As a 4 wheeler , People always break their 5/29 gears before people break 4/88's
the reason is more tooth contact
Same thing here for the Helical ,more angle provides more contact, more gears evenly distribute the load, not just one tooth at a time.

Not my thread , or would supply name part numbers. It was just an example

Good day

Helical does have a problem though, it loads the pinion races perpendicular to their rotation. As the helical gear rotates along the spur it is constantly trying to force itself away from the spur. People with high torque setups would have issues with the inner pinion bearing coming apart due to this load. A thrust bearing would be a good item to add, but space is usually limited in that area...

previous post was purely sarcasm BTW...

Again Since were using real world examples, what type of gears do indy cars use (straight cut) What kind of gears do non snycro trans use.... strait cut as well.. Reason for that is weight/strength, helical offer quieter operation..

Back to rc application... many ON this forum have proved that the side loading of the helical gears utterly destroy the inner bearing..

If this thread bothers you so much then leave it and dont look at it again..... im not going to waste any more of my time responding to you..

Big thanks to Joe at castle for his help, took a long time to get these back . With joe's hep my lost MMM's at castle found there way home :)

now we vid of a nice open playground, not just around your neighborhood, although it looks like a nice neighborhood:lol:

Small update form Emaxx_quebec
 

I recently bought a Monoblock extention ( tired to break Trx weelybar).
And now I can use the stock LST2 CVD that come with the diff. ( right lengh:intello:)
I have a spare 8mm cup and 1 dogbone now.

Anybody using this mod have any issues with bustin the collar brace? Ive busted 2 on 6S... Im trying to trim down an aluminum one right to strengthen this up... Just wondering if anyone else has issues/ideas... Thanks!

Yes, I bust 2 too.
I'll try take a pic of what I've done to correct that
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...anstitre-1.jpg

Nice and simple... I got the aluminum collar to fit and went for a test drive and twisted the end of an axle off... GRRRR!!! I think I tweaked it in a pothole I ran into and then a few seconds later with a wide open 6S pass I had a wheel bouncin one way and an E-Maxx cartwheelin towards me and the truck... Darn I need to get someone to film this stuff!

Sorry havent been on in a long time, I did have the same issue but I also did a very cheap and easy fix I learned from AIR plane guys.. All I did was twine epoxy soaked string over the plastic color, kind of like a cast.. Worked like a charm and was a super easy fix.

my toy
 

This is the t-maxx I am in the middle of building, I have fitted up a pair of LST2 diffs, I machined the side spacers and diff collars myself, the front one has the extra clearance under it to clear the proline steering links. I decided to spend a little time on the lathe at work as it seems collars are the weak spot when opened out for the lst2 diff (hopefully these will hold up ok)\
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/DSCF3606.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/DSCF3607.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/DSCF3608.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/DSCF3609.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/DSCF3611.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/DSCF3612.jpg
http://i645.photobucket.com/albums/u...l/DSCF3613.jpg

Craigl... If you wanted to machine a few sets of those aluminum collars I would be interested in buying some... Im too lazy to buy and Dremel out my own... One set was enuff...

Hey... what tyres are you using there? The truck looks awesome!

the problem with dremmeling standard collars is very little material left behind so they are weak and break if you push the horse power, at this stage I wont making any more but who knows ( its not a quick job on a 40 year old lathe ).
The tires are team orion street sweepers, they came on 1/2 inch offset rims via Ebay.

Cool.. thanks for the info craigl.

I shaved down a set of aluminum collars after the 1st set of stockers broke... So far on 6s they've held up... Wonder if these gears would work in a UE ultralite case... Hmmmm...

Interesting thought- the tooth counts are the same -43/13- depending on which exact version you get, lst2 for example. Im also gonna say the bearings must be the same inside diameters at least -both diffs will accept the RC-M output shafts and they both have an 8mm bore input shaft-...

Im sure you can look up which size bearings they each take, but I do reckon that with a little shiming they may well fit perfectly. Only down side is that the UE cases are $60 each, but it still works out at half the price of full blown 6 spider models costing $260 for a pair...

I am 99% that they wont fit, the old 9.5 violator diffs are bigger? Hard for me to explain this without a pic, the diff cases on the losi would be shallower then the 9.5..

Just out of complete curiosity? How have the Muggy/LST diffs held up for you brushless guys?

Have you guys had any major issue's?

LST2 diff's
 

I'm not brushless, running a .32 Axial big block as picture a few posts back, the diff's have worked a treat, done some pretty hard bashing and even as a heavy weight truck that spends its fare share of time on the back wheels only, I have not managed to break one yet.
I highly recommend this mod for any maxx truck running big horses.

My diffs are still holdin strong... Broken almost everything else but not stripped a diff yet...

Me too, Work like a charm.
Install it and forget it!

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...DSCF0009-3.jpg

Ah good stuff guys! mine are still together, the truck doesnt have that much time on it but what I did do to it would have already shredded stock e maxx diffs.

It's all in your slipper adjustment! :)

Craigl... If you have some dimensions or CAD(?) files to send to Vokus, he's askin for some machine work to practice with. I would seriously love 2 sets of the side spacers and 2 of the collar braces...

x2 I need a set of these spacers bad.

X3. Make a few Sets...

great job man. i have to say that emaxx is the best yet.my emaxx wont even be as close as nice as yours. :D

Anyone know where to pick the spacer and holder up at?

You mean the ones in Snoop's post? I believe he machined those parts himself- the pvc pipe trick a few posts before that is just as good ( if less attractive ).

+1

They hold up with NO trouble at ALL!!!!!
Duh, I broke the little plastic ring that go in the bulk and over the pinion input!
I made a peice of lexan to stop the diff moving up and down!

Fred

I like the snoop version.

what exactly did you have to do to the bulks to make the revo arms fit???? and if you have any close up pics could u pm them to me or even email them to me? if so i can send you my e mail via pm