I have enough cells left to make a 7S7P pack for my kid's Razor E200 stand up scooter. I'm going to try to make it this weekend.

Is gonna be a sweet Razor.

BTW, I'm running my old A123 packs in my Ebike. But I just switch over to 15s2p (10000mah) Lipo for a top speed of 31mph or so. I then added a 3 speed switch set at 50%, 80% and 100% power. The 50% setting maxes out @ 19mph, making me legit in an instant.

I have a three speed switch on my scooter also, this is a great thing to have when cops in your town don't like E-Bikes.

Could you experienced guys reccomend a good starting point for a e-bike n00b?

My thoughts are, i got a offroad bike that needs a new rear rim/wheel anyway, so i might as well buy a new e-bike wheel with motor..
I couldnt care less about staying legal, but a maximum speed of 45mph would be plenty.
I do on the other hand like if it could pull kinda strong uphill...
Dont need ALOT of range either.. 15-20km would be sufficent.. (or is that alot?)

Is there a complete kit to buy, that`s good enough?
I dont need the fastest most expensive bike in the world, but it has to pull strong enough to make it alittle fun hehe..

I`ve got a powerlab pl8, and 6x paralell cables for every cell size from 3s to 6s so the charging part is no problem..

Configuration
 

There are already a lot of different configurations one could put together for an E-bike and make it work. The real concern for me would be the safety factor involved. If you use just any old bike frame you may be asking for trouble right off the bat. As noted in several of the threads that have been posted over the last year some bike frames are made to be super light and open the door for enherant weaknesses in frame structure and welding joints that could kill you if not avoided. I have been watching the industry pretty closely on this and since I very much value my life the first thing that I would do is conduct some research and make sure that you acquire a solid bike that is built to take a beating. Putting a high torque motor on a cheap bike frame just will not hold up and will more than likely cause injury to the rider. Also going 45mph on a bycicle in traffic is not only pretty scary, but very dangerous even for a seasoned biker. Some of the best frames I have seen are Trek, and Cannondale off road bikes. Built to take a beating and last years doing so, but also come with a comperable price range $500-$1000.

As for the elctronics there are many products on the open market today that can provide exactly what your looking for for a fairly reasonable price range. It all depends on what you plan to use it for, how long you want it to last, and how much you want to spend on it. Top speed, hill pulling torque, and overall range can be met in several ways. You can go cheap and pickup a complete kit from China (Amazon.com) for about $400-$500. But if you want to build something that will last more than a couple of months you would be better off doing more research and purchasing a solid product from a company that specializes in this type of application, and also provides some kind of warranty for whatever you buy. A really good kit will run you about $1000-$2000, plus lights, horn, mirrors, and saftey gear.

So for a really good setup your looking at spending around $3000 or more depending on how serious you want to go with your project. Considering that a lot of us have spent this much on building one really nice R/C truck to play with I would not go cheap for anything that I would put my life on the line riding on the road where many idiots drive a 4000lb vehicle. For that price you can also go in a different direction and purchase a well built scooter with everything already built in. Just my two cents, and for God sakes wear a helmet so you can arrive alive. Good luck with your quest.

Check this project out. (http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...651#post419651) Notice the solidly built frame. Intended to take the torque and punishment provided by the electronics used.

If your requirement weren't so high, I would say go for it. But 45MPH should not be attempted on a cheap bike. Disk brakes at least for the front is highly recommended. A good front suspension is a must. The frame or at least the rear part of the bike should be chromoly. If not, increase the strength of the dropouts to deal with the torque.

30mph is the most I would go on a regular frame bike, with the use of torque arms at the dropouts.

There are a few motors out that are torque monsters, but I chose the Torque monster Magic Pie for the slim design.

There are many controllers out there to get and Ebay has plenty of cheapy ones that can be modded. I didn't want to do all that after my initial Ebay kit, so went for the Lyen controller. His controller can be modded and you can ask for additional features to be installed. You can also tweak his controller with the provided software.

The 15-20km range is doable on 5000mah, but not at 45mph. 7000mah is a safer bet for that range @45mph. Go slower and your range greatly increases.
I can go 5.5 miles on 1Ah at a slower speed vs 3Ah at max speed.

snellemin, I see "6kw A123" in your sig. Is that with the prismatic cells or the cylindrical cells from Dewalt tool batteries? I'm asking because if it's the prismatics then I'm curious to see how you joined the cells tabs together. I'm too lazy to search for one of your posts that would give me the answer. Thanks.

There's been a lot of discussions on ES on how to join the tabs together without spot welding. A lot of ideas were brought up but I feel that the perfect solution hasn't been found yet. Something simple, cheap, sturdy, light weight that enables to hold the cell tabs securely to make excellent contact and yet it can easily be taken apart or opened to take just one cell out. Maybe Monster Mike could think of something.

I used dewalt cells to make 2p packs and used regular novak battery bars to solder 6s1p and 4s1p bundles together. When you take the Dewalt packs apart, you get split packs of 4s1p and 6s1p. So minimal soldering was required. 3P packs would of been nice, but I'm just going to save up for 8 6s1p 5000mah lipo packs from fmadirect, to run either 24s2p or 12s4p configs.

Thanks!

When i think about it, 30mph probably is enough anyways..
What im worried about is climbing hills.. Would a typical magic pie kit feel strong in a rather steep hill? im not expecring 25mph uphill, but its gotta feel like its no problem at all, to make it real fun :-)
Accelleration is more fun than top speed.

5-7000mah you say, but at what voltage would this be?

Read some about the magic pie, but alot o q`s raise in my head :(

Should i aim for MP III with internal controller, or MP II with a lyen controller?

I was thinking about using my 5s 5000mah nanotech 45c batteries for this. I`ve got 4 of them, so i can run 42v 10Ah if that`s an option?

And i`m happy with 25-30mph, if i can get it to do uphill kinda strong.
Problem is, i have no idea what 1-2000w will do to a bike uphill, and i cant find videos to compare.

I`m not expecting 30mph in a 10% uphill ofcourse, but i`m hoping it will do a decent job without pedal assist. Say, faster than i would do it manually atleast :)

Would a standard MP III kit do these thing for me, or will it feel week on power?
And kan a 42v battery be used with this kit?

I don't have any experience with bicycle hub motors. But if I were to get a Magic Pie, I would get the II with an external controller of my choice, not the III with integrated controller, which is convenient I agree, less wiring and no worries about finding a spot on the bike for a big controller, but still I would prefer an external controller.

Hi there,
I'm planning to convert my bycicle to an e-bike with a direct drive rear motor, 12s LiPo. I believe my bike has a 28" wheel (not sure to be honest, tire says 28x1.40, but is that a 28" wheel or 26"?) and I'd like 45+ km/h and at least 25 km reach. Regenerative braking would be great. I'm planning to use 12s2p 5 Ah LiPo, resulting in 44.4 V and 10 Ah nominal. Which motor, controller and shop can you recommend?

I would like powerful and reliable components, not something cheap and upgrade later. So far I've seen Magic Pie II, E-BikeKit.com and other shops, but can't decide on one without customer recommendations.

I love my Magic Pie II motor. That thing has lots of torque and doesn't get hot like my older smaller motor. The slim design makes it easy to install in nearly any regular frame. I suggest you head out to the Endless-sphere forum and ask for more details. I'm considered a noob when it comes to Ebikes.
I like the controller that I got from Edward Lyen. Easy to program and has great add on options. Check out Lyen.com

http://www.gizmag.com/audi-wortherse...ototype/22511/

Audi have made their own trillion dollar machine...

Seat looks a tad small :oh:

I have an ebike I converted 2 years ago with a Nine-Continent wheel motor ran by an Infineon controller that can handle 100V peak, and 45amp current; all powered by a 16s 15Ah prismatic cell A123 battery pack I built myself with a charging BMS built in. I get between 35 and 40km (25miles) range @ top speed, with a high end of ~55+kph (34mph). The bike is a 2008 GT Bikes Avalanche 2.0. I custom made a bolt in torque arm to the the drop out brake mount, and disc brakes front and rear, with a 180mm disc on back, for clearance reasons.

The thing I love about the bike the most is the battery, FANTASTIC, same top speed from freshly charged, to almost dead; worry free charging with a 3Amp/58 volt charger and BMS; and so far has treated me well with almost 3000km traveled on it.

Let me know if you want pics.