It caused alittle grief.

I was banned from TRX in less than 2 weeks, Is that a record ?

I can't even get on the forum anymore,they were serious ?

Sounds like you got IP Banned, there are ways around that if you really care to get back on their site.

:mdr:

That is true...

They didnt just ban my ISP address, they banned the whole ISP, meaning no-one with a 'BTInternet' account can join that forum. Harsh, but then again, so was I (on the noobs)...

Neil came back 3 times. That is why they Nuked him. It was funny when a new name signed up within 1 or 2 post you could tell right away who it was:rofl:

Zack I am going to echo what everyone else is saying bottoming out is no big deal. Thicker oil will help with blue and black springs on 4 Supershocks. I used red and blue spring on 8 SuperShocks. If you want put the RPM pad over your skid pad.

Hey Kcaz25, did you get pics of your suspension setup yet?

calm down boys, its like a heroin addiction. We all logged on TRX and looked forward to pointing out faults in morons, maybe just me. I've been trx free for a year.... don't I get a chip

Yea rpm skids work awesome protect the stock and expensive skids and make them last a whole lot longer. I was back on trx forum with a new name in about an hour.

I like the white sparks my Ti skids make!

Sorry about the bad pics I suck and was in a hurry to boot. You can tell front from rear by the red turnbuckles.
http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1007.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1008.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1011.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1016.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1017.jpg

I installed 4 big bores now along with the 4 SuperShocks. It helped alittle. Still bottoms at about 10 inches.

Hey Kcaz25, from what I can see in the photo with that ride hight (I am assuming you are lowering the truck to stabilise for better handling), you are going to need a little more pre-load with the springs (Front - 1/2 - 5/8" and rear 1/2").
I'm also thinking the shock position on the towers are not helping to support the truck well... I think moving the shocks to the outer mounting point will improve the dampening.

Big Bores... hmmm, are you referring to the traxxas ones? if so, I am not sure if they would really help considering they don't have the same travel or dampening effect as the Super Shocks.

Alien

How big are the batts and where are they positioned cant really tell in the pics? What oil is in the shocks. Sounds like theres none in them if it bottoms with only 10" of drop.

He said they are filled with 80wt....

I think this may be an issue of position and angle of the shocks.

Yep... Another thing too... Kcaz25, have you checked the state of the rubber bladders in the shocks... Some people have experienced them blowing out with oil weight higher than 70.

Alien

I think he better check, the bottom of those retainers look very wet for it not to be a nitro. Pull the pistons out and see if they been modded. I dont think my truck would bottom out with 80wt oil and no springs lol thats very thick oil.

RIVER CLICK HERE

I actually document everything I do here in case any one is wondering, even though I really don't mind answering the same questions.

I've tried just about every position Nitrostarter. I've heard the more shock slant gives the most resistance. And that is true.
The bladders in the caps are fine, but the bottoms are too wet for my liking, yet upon opening the shocks the oil is clear and still full.

... so maybe the little discs in the body is letting too much oil by? AKA the holes in the discs are too big? Are there interchangable ones?

Lito help!!

Zack, bottoming out is not a bad thing at all. It helps to protect your shocks. Besides, once the truck is in motion, you should be landing it with the rear wheels first just like an airplane landing on the tarmac. Have you ever seen any airplane land on all fours at the same time? None. Any vertical drop will cause it to bottom out so but not so when you land properly. You need to practice landing your truck rear wheels first . I'm running blue/black (f/r) springs with 50wt oil all around on my emaxx. It bottoms out when dropped from about 6-8 inches off the ground but rarely bottoms outs when landing from a jump.

Looking at the upper mounting point on the shock, try mounting it on hole #7 (second hole from top on the center.

He replied on UE and said the same thing I was saying. That even his truck bottoms out from a 8inch drop. They will do that. Its all about driving and jumping. Thats why I was saying to go try the track and see how it performs. There will be some bottoming out, thats what the skid plates are for. But the main thing is to learn how to jump and land.

Dropping the truck straight down is one thing. But driving and jump and landing is completely different. There are multiple forces applying different forces while running and jumping.

I see one big issue after seeing your other pics. Your battery is almost sitting right on top of the rear diff no wonder it bottoms out. Put it on the side where it belongs and mount your esc there or just leave it open. I would definatly check your oil levels in your shocks because they seem to be leaking a little. While your at it check the bladders like was said previously. 80 imho weight is to high I feel 50or 60 would be better .

:no:You go back (about page 7) and look at the whole layout, since you can't feel it, remember the motor is mounted on one side. It is nearly perfectly balanced. :whip:

Like I said previously the bladders are good.

Sorry I don't mean to be so quick I just really like the layout, I know its good.


Okay I suck at jumping.

But I remember dropping my savage from 4 feet to bottom it when it was brand new RTR and still had an engine (now just sits waiting on money to convert.) Oh well...

I have read about your whole setup a while ago I cant remember every detail. How do you know its pefectly balanced did you weigh each individual wheel. Anyway I am just stating the obvious, if you put more weight towards the back its going to bottom out the back sooner than if the weight was more toward the middle. Like it or not I believe this is one of your problems. I personally would turn the tranny around and push the batts as far foward as you can(on the sides where they belong). Why is it so important that its balanced anyway do you race it or just bash?

Lito's answer FTW!

Well, I got my Gorillamaxx G1 Single-Speed Conversion installed, using a stock plastic half-case and new Acer Racing ceramic bearings, and everything went well and it spins extremely smooth...very impressive!

The only other thing I want to do to it is find and install a set of OTB/Ultramaxxed GenIII gears in it, then it will be bomb-proof! There was a NIP set on eBay not too long ago, but I didn't need them at the time, so I didn't buy them (kicks self in butt).

Anyway, for anyone thinking about installing the G1, I highly recommend it!

Mine works fine with the stock plastic gear and ue steel idler. I do have a set of titanium gears though. Did you do the input shaft pin mod?.

Thanx but no thanx River. The weight IS more towards the front. The motor IS pointed forward and the esc with all its wires is also in the front and to one side opposite one of the batteries, and if anyone noticed with all this space I could run 6s 2sx2sx2s!! Giving lower CG.

Cool chad good to hear. Yeah the Plastic case functioned great for me as well, it just flexed too much as you know allowing the motor attached to it to punch whatever was under it (in MY case (ONLY) the ESC).

Put the front on a scale and take a pic an do the same with the rear. I really dont believe with the battery sitting that far back the rear is lighter than the front.
Heres an example of the weight distribution I am running:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2472.jpg
I love how the g-maxx sets up its so CLEAN and perfectly balanced with the UE mono and setbacks combined with the low cog no wonder it handles so good.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2471.jpg

As soon as I get my UE diff outputs and UE 8mm CVDs from Lito, I will be able to complete my SMG! Well, I also have to get my Tekin RX8 ESC & Tekin T8 2250kV Motor as well!

Kcaz25, I am not going to mount my motor on the transmission, so I won't have to worry about flexing the transmission...I am going to custom-build a motor-mount to mount the motor as low as possible in front of the spur gear. I am also giving delrin spur gears a try, to see how well they hold up to extra-hard pinions and extreme brushless power!

Truck is looking good, River!

Edit: I have a question, do you guys think delrin body posts would be strong enough? I have like 6 feet of the correct diameter delrin rod that I would like to use.

Oh, I also forgot to mention, I am going to be making some upper plates and lower plates (chassis) pretty soon out of a few different materials, like; 3.2mm 6061 aluminum, 2.8mm 7075 aluminum, 2.5mm titanium, and 3.0mm carbon-fiber. Neil (suicideneil) and a couple others notices the top servo plate flexing when using high-torque servos (stock top plates are only 2.0mm 6061 aluminum), so I decided to remedy that. I will also be making lower chassis as well out of; 3.2mm 6061 aluminum, 2.8mm 7075 aluminum, 2.5mm titanium, and 3.0mm carbon-fiber.

Delrin rod would be perfect for body posts, its a wonderful material aparently.

Yea, I have like 100 lbs of delrin scraps I got from my friend when he worked at a local machine shop...pieces from blocks 1" x 1" x 1" to sheets 1" x 12" x 24" to blocks 6" x 12" x 36", and all kinds of stuff inbetween. Most of it is black, but a lot is white, green, and blue!

Heck, if you've got that much chop some of it up and flogg it on ebay- cross drill it for body clips and mouting screws, then you could make a tidy little profit, especially if you did some longer ones that are hard to find.

Delrin sheets are also great for custom battery trays and rx/esc plates etc, you could be sitting on a little gold mine there dude... :mdr:

Yeah I'll see if I can set that up for ya River. You know I'm running another battery don't you? Closer to the front. That isn't a lone 4s. I run a pair of 2s packs. You would be right if I was only running one 4s in the rear.

Vids up later 2day.

Anxiously waiting! Lets see some good stuff!!!!


I got a couple more parts for my build as well...:gasp:

Well the vids didn't turn out as well as I thought they would. I swear we missed some of the best stuff. Its mostly me turning at high speed. Oh and I forgot my body clips, I had enough faith that even if I did flip the truck could take it without the body. I know, blah blah #1 rule of RC: never run with the body off... lol You can see in one of the clips that I do roll it but no harm is done. (Those FLM towers I got from Mark are tough as nails!) All of the swerving/wagging is on purpose. Enjoy. http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...h_100_1025.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...h_100_1023.jpg

Bottoming out aside, I think its tuned very well.

Anyone?

BRP BODY LOCKING BODY CLIPS
What do you guys think?

Make sure you watch the videos 2 posts up, post #314.

-Zack

This truck handles pretty good also.Well, accept for the occasional bottoming out also.:na::rofl:

Now you're just pissing me off.

Did you make videos on surfaces... like dirt or asphalt... I think the grass was a little high to make any evaluations from those vids...
it looks quick, but i can't really see the suspension working.

Alien

It does turn and handle rather well Zack. Nice full speed turns there without flipping, but do realize that you are sliding on grass.

Overall I think the truck looks like its running great. Its kinda hard to say any more than that since the video is speed running in the grass with a couple bump, not to mention that you maxx was off in the distance most of the videos.

Go to the track out there and see how it handles and jumps!