Are those the rear proline shocks that they make for the 4x4 as well?? If so can a person get by with 4 instead of 8? Maybe if I wait I could afford 8 because that looks cooler than 4.

Are those the FLM A-Arms or another brand? I like how the corners on the arms are rounded.

Are the bumpers the stock chrome plated plastic ones or a custom set you got somewhere.

Maybe some day in the near future you can sit down and make a list of each part in Microsoft Word with all the part names, part numbers if you can remember them and the website links. After you make the list you could just copy and paste it into the thread. I have alot already but I'm leaning towards the center diff setup since it looks more clean along with all the other stuff. This will be nice someday I'm hoping. I'm still waiting on my FLM parts. Last I emailed her yesterday she said she was waiting on 2 parts to get milled then she would ship. Can't hardly wait.

The A-arms, the knuckles,the titanium CVD's, the titanium pillow balls, and the titanium hinge pins are all the hard to get Unlimited Engineering brand. I was able to get three other sets of A-arms (for back-up) and three sets of steel UE CVD's (again for back-up). I don't want talk about how much I spent on those alone. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Unlimited-En...item2a141de44a
This guy is selling everything as a set including the UE bulkheads and steering servo. I can tell you that for all of that it's a great price. A lot of the pieces are now discontinued, but absolutely the best E-Maxx stuff on the planet. I would buy that lot if I did not already have all the other sets. The front and rear bumpers are Traxxas aluminum ones. Yes the shocks are Proline rears, and if you go further back into my thread I left a link for those shocks for you. 4 shocks will not work if you are going to do a truck as heavy as mine( 13 lbs with the batteries). At least with those shocks. You would have to do your research to find what would work. As for the list like I said before in this thread I am very lucky my wife did not divorce me with all the time I have spent on this truck (thanks honey). She and I have very busy 1 and 4 year old boys and my time is very limited. To be honest I don't want to know how much I have spent on this thing. If you look at the Ebay link above you can begin to get an idea of the amount I have invested. I think there was a guy on Ebay not to long ago that was selling the UE titanium CVDs (new) for $500 alone. Just look on Ebay from time to time and people are selling UE parts all the time. The answers that you are looking for are further back in this thread. I think I have talked about almost every part on this truck. and I have provided links for most of them, except the UE stuff bought on Ebay. I'm still not done with the truck as I'm waiting for the Hitec 9380 brushless servos that are hopefully coming out soon. As soon as I get those I will be done with the truck (for now). What you can't appreciate is the countless hours of research I done to pick the right parts. I have used other build threads in this forum and others as inspiration. The hunt for parts and the wait was part of the fun. I spent most of the time just waiting for parts to ship or come back in stock. I suggest going back and reading this whole thread from the beginning. Take your time in selecting parts, (trust me on that I have a bunch of parts that did not make it onto this truck) it will save you money in the long run. Good luck with the build.
Mike.

That's a thing of beauty for sure, really did come together nicely.

Only other thing I would say look at is the right-rear knuckle, the camber angle looks to be a bit out of whack ( top the the wheel is leaning outwards, should be sitting level ideally & pointed inwards when viewed from above ( 1.5 degrees toe-in on both sides, front wheels should be parallel & sitting level too ).

I'm also looking at how you mounted the shocks in different holes on the towers- ideally both shocks on each side of the tower should use the same hole, with a long screw going all the way through both shock caps & mounts ( 2 shocks on one screw )- something about 50mm long should work.

Otherwise it's a work of art.... :yes:

Yes im going to set up the suspension before I drive it. I will look into getting those screws . Thanks again as always.

Yes I am familiar with the proline shocks as I have them on both of my slash 4x4 trucks. I have other trucks so I'll have them to drive as this slow build process moves forward. Thanks fore the info.

:yipi: WOW dude your truck rocks. I love it. Very nicely done and the flames on that Top Kick are amazing. I think if you drop the mounts down a bit to just get the body to the edges of the chassis plate it would be perfect.

Otherwise that is show winning material right there, concourse winner for sure.

I see you're like me and like not having a gap between the body and the chassis. I was going to say something, but it's my taste, maybe not his. I also noticed he'd have to space the Maxx bumpers out to clear the bumpers on the body, but he wouldn't be able to lower the body much just doing that. To really drop the body he'd also have to clearance (cut) the bodies around the bumper mounts in order to lower them. Can't blame him if he doesn't want to do that, especially to that sweet true fire body.

In order get it to drop I would have to cut the body. I think it kind of looks like it has a body lift. I spent too much on the custom paint to cut it. I might do that with the one I painted.

I know all to well the little idiosyncrasies of the Maxx trucks! I try to leave a little extra on the bottom of my Maxx bodies just because of that. It wouldn't make much difference in your case though, those TopKick bodies aren't very tall to begin with. Even with the body lowered as much as possible you might still have a gap. Either way, like I said before, it depends on your taste, and if you like it as is leave it. Congrats on a sweet build.

I think if I bought the topkick body that fits the savage it would have fit over the bumpers and I could have dropped it more. Mabey some day. I'm about to drop $400.00 more on Hitec brushless servos in the next few weeks if they ever come out. So the thought of dropping almost 200.00 on another body is not all that appealing. I think I have already spent enough on this. I think I will just drive this one for awhile, and leave well enough alone. Thanks for the compliments.

Body
 

Hell I would not even run that body and take the chance of damaging that beautiful body work. You should have a beater body for driving it around, and only use the one for show.

Yes Jerry,
The solid black body is my basher body, and the "True flame" will never be mounted on it when it is rolling.

Thanks for the compliment.

I think my flm stuff should be here Monday because Fri I got a click n ship notification from them. It's only 500 miles and 2 days mail generally so on Monday I just may be building a truck that will be FLM'IfIed

Are you going to start a build thread?

Not sure but if I do it probably wouldn't be as elaborate and good as yours. If I want to even come as close as yours I'm going to have to pony up a lot more money. Are your rims aluminum ?? If so what brand if you can remember?

Go back to page 6 in this thread. If you go back to page 5 you will see why I had to go to 14 mm wheels.

Well, Traxxas ends soldered on, suspension set, and 10t gear mounted, gear mesh set, and now waiting on battery pack for the Futaba radio to charge. I will try the first shake down run this morning. I will let you know what happens. Once I get it all tuned I will take some video of it and post it to Youtube. I hope all goes well!!!

Nice and I hope all goes well to.....

I got to take it out and I'm having a problem with the truck pulling to the left. I have the wheels pointing dead straight. It seems that the servos don't want to center. They will center when I give the wheel a quick turn left or right a few times. That is fine when sitting still, but if I have to do that when the truck is up to speed that will = a crash!!!! I guess I'm going to have to wait till the Hitec 9380's are released:(. I will tell you guys it sounds really cool when running, much different than the stock brushless. It will pull the wheels off the ground at will. Even though it has all metal gears it is not as loud as my stock truck. I'm just afraid to bring this thing up to speed if it's going to act all squirley. Yes I did center the servos when mounting the steering linkage. I don't have another set of servos that I could use, and I don't want to buy something that I won't end up using later.If I adjust the trim when the servos truly center they will pull the side so I don't think that would be the solution. The servos are Hitec HS 5625's. Any thoughts guys?

Amazng
 

Your truck looks amazing. You did a great job and you have somethng to be proud of for sure. The issue you are having seems to be pretty common and I am sure that most of us have run into this issue at one time or another. How about trying to use just one servo and then the other to see if it is one servo or both that are giving you the problem. Are you using a BEC, or just running both servos off of the ESC? Running two servos on the ESC might just be too much servo draw to deal with. Especially if they are high torque servos. I have had servo issues myself and still do not quite get how different some servos are when all the specs seem to be the same. The other thing that I believe you are going to have a problems with is using aluminum rims under power. Super-glue just does not stick too well to aluminum, and they will seperate fairly easy under load. There are several threads inhere about using beadlock rims, balancing wheels, and also taping the tires to prevent balooning whih yu will more than likely see if you use a good range of power, torque, and speed.

Jerry, I have tapped the tires. I'm hoping that they wont separate. I took extra time to sand the wheels and clean the release agent from the wheels. No I'm not using a separate BEC, but these servo's are not super high torque. I'm hopping the Hitec 9380 brushless servos with the low power draw will fix the problem of using high torque servos without a separate BEC. As for balancing I found a solution for my Dynamite wheel balancer.
Dynamite makes an 12mm axle, and I just bought a 12mm to 14mm adapter so I will be able to use the Dynamite balancer with these 14mm wheels. Balancing all my 17mm wheels has made such a dramatic difference in how my other truck ran I will not drive a truck/car without having the wheels balanced. I'm hoping all the extra time and care that I took gluing the tires on will result in no tire blow outs. Only time will tell. I was not planning on any real high speed runs until I balanced the tires. Just like everything else I have done with this build I will take my time and think things through before proceeding on. Thanks for the advice, input, and kind words.
Mike.:yes:

The 5625's has about 164 oz.in of torque and should be adequate for your truck. In fact, it should be able to center itself easier when it's running compared to when the truck is at a standstill. Less torque is needed when the vehicle is in motion.

If I were you, I'd try with just a single servo. Two servos are more of a liability and headache if they are not synchronized together. It seems to me that they are fighting/canceling each other a little bit.

Great-looking truck you got there! Don't be scared in running it up to speed. Just find a wide and clear area to run so you can minimize the chance of hitting something.

Thanks,
I'm not afraid to bring it up to speed. I was going well of excess of 55 to 60 with my old brushless Emaxx. This truck won't go straight and I'm fighting with the steering. I will try one servo at a time in the next few days. I can already tell that this truck handles much better than the stock brushless truck, and should be a missile when I can steer it straight. I think you are right they might be fighting each other. I'm sure I will work this out. I knew it was not going to just fire right up and be perfect. I have not come this far to give up or mess this up now. It's just going to take some time to work out all the little kinks. I guess this is just part of the fun. :yipi:

As far as the servos go, using dual servos is a bit of a pain. The links from the servo horn to the bellcrank both have to be the same length on both sides or they will be fighting each other. If you can hear the servos buzzing with the front end off the ground they are fighting each other. Btw, I like to keep the radio and servos powered up when centering the linkage so I know nothing is moving around on me. First setup the bellcrank to center, then adjust the subtrim (not regular trim) on your radio to center the servos. Subtrim doesn't affect total servo travel like the regular trim does. With the bellcrank and servos centered them you can adjust the camber, then the toe in after that.

I know you have the dual servo saver linkage, but the Traxxas manual should have diagrams telling you the exact length the linkages should be. They are actually real size too, so you can just match your linkage to the manual. Also, just double check the servo savers to make sure there isn't excessive play in them as that can cause the off center issue you mentioned. If they are a little loose, see what spring you have in it, the black one is stiffer than he chrome spring and will have less play.

Overdriven,
you are the man:yes: the tip for leaving the radio and servos on when mounting the arms did the trick. The servos seem to center now. It now drives where I point it. Thanks so much:yipi: I will do some more testing tomorrow if I get some time. I forgot to locktite the pinion gear and kind of freaked out when it popped off. Neil, I also received the long screws. I went ahead and ordered 40mm, 45mm, and 50mm screws. Turns out the 45mm screws are the best,.... (that's what she said). The shock springs no longer touch part of the A-arms and overall just look so much better. As far as mounting the bellcranks, I always just turned on the radio/truck and let the servos center, then turned it off. Then I mounted the steering linkage. I'm sure I will have a few more bugs pop up, but it is reassuring to know that a real answer is just a few clicks away. All of you guys are the best. Remember that one year ago I had never owned an RC vehicle, and eight months ago I was afraid to change a shock tower out. I've come a long way in a short time. I would have been lost without you guys thanks again,
Mike.

Some stuff you pick up yourself from trial and error, other times little tips and tricks from others really makes things so much easier. I know I've had more than a few "Duh, why didnt I notice that..." moments myself after reading someones post. If you have any other little issues with the steering reread my last post and go from there. Can't figure it out? Then just ask!

Edit: I wouldnt worry about your current servos drawing enough to need an external BEC. It might be nice insurance, especially if your going to add lots of led's or something. I also think their combined torque is plenty for your truck as long as they're setup properly. Unless the brushless servo's are that much faster or you just really want them, I don't see a reason to upgrade to them.

Thanks again, I will....

Ok, guys I have another question. Now that my truck is tracking straight I'm now seeing that the steering is really sensitive. When I'm up to speed the truck will dart with every little input. Is there a way to "calm" some of that down? I'm also thinking about how to do a more permanant way to mount my batteries. I see I could use trays, but I'm looking to do something much better. I found a web site where you can make your own carbon fiber parts and I think this might be an option.
http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...epBjOMPq8JIP2g
Do any of you guys have any experience this? I wonder if it would be strong enough? Watch the video and tell me what you think. There is a link on the web site. I'm at work and they block anything related to Youtube, but it's on the site under "kits".

Rcm
 

RCM MonsterMike makes battery trays and sells them in his store. Carbon fiber is another alternative and yes it will hold up if you do it right. There are good and bad ways to produce items out of CF, and it can get a little bit tetious, and complicated if you have never done it before. We have seen guys in here who have manufactured some pretty good items right in their own garage, but it can be a costly gamble if you have no idea what your doing.

I think I'm going to give it a try. I think becase the shape is not too complex it should not be too difficult to make the parts. The basic kit is about 50 to 60 dollars US. Not too bad. Should be fun. If I go that route I will be sure to document the whole process.

You can program your Futaba radio for a less "sensitive" feel. The reaction times can be controlled electronically through your radio.

Thanks George I was hoping for a little explanation of servo speed and servo exponential-function. What do they do and how can they help me?

Very nice turn out, Mike! That truck is beautiful. I really like how you left the other parts silver, they play off the red chassis nicely.

So how do you like the slipperential??? How well does it drive??

I love it. The truck weighs 13lbs with the batteries so I had to add an extra spring so it will hold up to the power and weight. I really have not had the chance to really flog it because I am still working out issues with the servos,the slipperential is highly recommended.
thanks
Mike.

First real test run is a success. I will not really run it till I get the wheels balanced.

I have the wheels balanced and will test in the morning.

Well I got to take it for another test drive. I handles soooo much better than the stock truck. Even better than my stock truck with the RPM A-arms (with Tru-track). The tires have held so far (knock on wood). No ballooning, very little shake thanks to balancing the tires. The truck tracks straight, but likes to pull to the right under really hard acceleration, but centers when I let off of the throttle. This truck looks so cool moving. I have looked at this thing for so long it's nice to finally see it working. I will try to get some video and post it to Youtube soon.
Mike.

Just a little update. As I continue to dial in the suspension. The truck continues to perform flawlessly. It handles so well. The motor/esc/batteries all are staying cool. The Slipperential is bullet proof and running well. The front and rear differential are great, and I can run this thing longer than five minuets without twisting a drive shaft (that was the original problem that caused me to look for a stronger solution). I have not had as much time to drive this truck as I would like. I have started another project that I'm almost done with (Losi 22, I'm waiting for a servo....seems like that's all I do). I might try my hand at racing, but I bought it really just to bash around the neighborhood and old BMX track. I'm still planning to do a video for the truck soon.
AMF,
Mike.

I always see those videos of people running their RC's on BMX tracks and I wish we had one around here. They are so smooth and the jumps are killer.

Glad your truck is running great. :yipi: All your hard work is paying off!

I read you were thinking about getting the Top Kick body for the Savage, don't do it! It won't line up with the body mounts. I got one originally for a Race Clod so I just picked up the Savage shell. Then I wanted to paint a Ironhide Transformer with it and put it on my Predator EMaxx and the front body posts end up in the middle of the windshield. So I don't think it will fit yours either.