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-   -   1:10 or 1:12 scale project wanted... (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5935)

gixxer 04.22.2007 11:17 PM

sounds good. A little longer chassis could be nice too. now as brian said get back to work :), so none of us will have to run nitro again.

gixxer 04.22.2007 11:20 PM

thanks for the update on the 8t mounts I will be sure to order that as soon as it hits your store.

riceman 04.22.2007 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG
Yeah, I was looking at using the Kyoshos because they were available and fairly cheap. I do know that even the 44T spur will rub the chassis, so the whole mount may have to be raised - unless a whole different spur is used (Revo?).

It's funny that such a simply little truggy could be so difficult to find a usable solution to use a plastic spur...

I'm not sure what I did differently but I had no issues with the 46t kyosho rubbing.

BrianG 04.23.2007 12:25 AM

That's because you moved the front forward so the spur was still in the chassis cutout. The options I am looking at require no chassis modifications at all. One of the options I tried was to hollow out a 44T spur and slide it over the diff cup. Then I was going to find a way to secure that to the stock spur. Since the 44T spur was not in line with the gap, it rubbed ever so slightly.

I think Mike and I are on the same page as far as chassis mods go. Whatever he makes will probably drop right in with no extra holes or dremel "milling" to fit. Many people are not going to want to mod their chassis, might not have the tools and/or skill to do so right, and/or want to be able to revert back to nitro (I shudder at the thought). So it only makes sense from a sales perspective to cater to the masses. And at the same time, I think he is trying to find a solution that will be relatively inexpensive. Not too many are going to want to buy a new chassis and all kinds of extra parts for a brushless kit.

You can tell he is having a bit of difficulty with trying to get a plastic spur to work since he's already spent some time with really no forward progress - just a bit of prototyping. At least it makes me feel a bit better knowing I'm wasn't the only one to have a heck or time to figure this out! :)

So, for the time being, I designed my conversion to be functional, but with the knowledge that Mike was going to come out with something. So, things are spaced so I can replace any one thing without having to rebuild everything as well. I really hope I can keep the battery tray since that is about as perfect as I could get it. It was tough to make it support 2s, 3s, and 6 cells, while holding each type firmly and arranging everything else to be neat and tidy.

Wow, another long-winded post! I gotta stop doing this...

BP-Revo 04.23.2007 12:34 AM

Hey Mike - any possibility that an extended chassis will be up for sale? I very much want an extended chassis - another 25mm would be sweet! I just don't have the equipment to do it (to do anything really)... My tools are limited to a cordless drill, hand hacksaw, a reciprocating saw (that I like to stay away from) and a compressor rotory tool (that I try to stay away from as well).

I'l also quite interested into what becomes of the spur. For now, I'm just going to use a hardned pinion with the stock spur (I'll drop you an E-Mail on that once I get my motor - I'm the one thats been inquiring about the LMT 1530). I am planning to brace the heck out of the chassis to eliminate as much flex as possible to try to help with. Also, mechanical brakes should further help gear life.

BrianG 04.23.2007 12:40 AM

What?! No dremel? It's crazy what you can do with one of those. Just get a regular A/C one, not the battery one.

Do you have your CRT.5 yet? It's already pretty sturdy. It only flexes where the CD is. If you put a battery tray on there and maybe use a top plate from the CD to the front brace area, there is absolutely no flex whatsoever. And I tried to bend it quite hard (I put the middle of the chassis on the edge of my workbench and pushed).

BP-Revo 04.23.2007 12:52 AM

I have gotten my CRT .5. Its sitting right next to me.

Brian, if you put your thumbs on the center diff area and have your fingers on the front and rear and push down, it flexes pretty significantly.

Given, this is with the chassis completely bare. There is nothing on it besides the front and rear braces and center diff assembly. I'm sure it will stiffen up when stuff gets mounted up.

Even so, I am planning to find some turnbuckles to mount to create a type of "upper deck." I will take some from the front top plate (probably the steering posts) to the front center diff mount, then take one or two from the rear center diff mount to the part of the wing stay thats on the inside of the rear shock tower (drill holes, of course).

I may get a dremel, but for now I'll stick with the compressor rotary tool (kind of like a dremel) - or maybe leech of MetalMan. LOL :p

BrianG 04.23.2007 12:55 AM

Yeah, I did that when the chassis was bare and it did flex. With a battery tray, it strengthens it significantly.

Leeching off MetalMan sounds like the best (and cheapest) option to me. :)

gixxer 04.23.2007 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike
Tom - trust me, I will be sure to post when I have it done - I want to get mine going(could have it done, but I want to make something everyone can use) and this little unit seems to be quite popular so far(too new to tell long term, but a bolt on conversion should help). Mine may ultimately get another inch of wheelbase as well(custom chassis). :)

I like the idea of the extended frame but I was thinking more then an inch. More like 1.75-2 to bring it up to 1/10th scale size.

jnev 04.23.2007 10:09 PM

Thanks for info Mike. Too bad about the useless spurs you made.

Can't wait for the final product.:027:

MetalMan 04.23.2007 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BP-Revo
I may get a dremel, but for now I'll stick with the compressor rotary tool (kind of like a dremel) - or maybe leech of MetalMan. LOL :p

Don't forget that I have a scroll saw, bench grinder (nice for smoothing edges) and a drill press, as well as some slight milling capabilities (with the drill press and end mill bits).

BP-Revo 04.23.2007 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MetalMan
Don't forget that I have a scroll saw, bench grinder (nice for smoothing edges) and a drill press, as well as some slight milling capabilities (with the drill press and end mill bits).

I knew you had a drill press, but not the other two. I'm really going to have to leach off you then :D

glassdoctor 04.23.2007 11:54 PM

I talked to Mike today about the spur gear issue. I think I will have a solution in a couple days. Hang tight....

Mike has the motor mount covered... all we need is a sweet battery mount and the conversion will be super easy.

gixxer 04.24.2007 12:12 AM

sounds great, I should have my crt.5 in a few days. I didn't know mike was going to be making a battery mount too? That will make this even easier.

Now I just have to hope he finishes the losi 8t mount soon, or for that matter horizon to get them back in stock.

glassdoctor 04.24.2007 12:21 AM

Well... I don't know that he is working on a battery mount. I talked to him today and that never came up... we were more concerned about the motor mount and gear. But a drop in battery tray would be killer to make a complete conversion.

A local guy wants me to come up with a battery mount... so I'm going to see what I can do. I will have his truck tomorrow to get started.


As for the losi mount.... my design never got done. The shop had issues with their cnc mill so the project is still delayed. I gave up on them... it's been months now. I may send my design to Mike so he can make a few for anyone waiting on it.

BrianG 04.24.2007 12:46 AM

The Al battery tray I made is simple and effective. It could probably use a bit of tweaking, but is quite solid.

riceman 04.24.2007 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG
That's because you moved the front forward so the spur was still in the chassis cutout. The options I am looking at require no chassis modifications at all. One of the options I tried was to hollow out a 44T spur and slide it over the diff cup. Then I was going to find a way to secure that to the stock spur. Since the 44T spur was not in line with the gap, it rubbed ever so slightly.

Oh yeah - I did hack mine up a bit.:eek:


Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG
I think Mike and I are on the same page as far as chassis mods go. Whatever he makes will probably drop right in with no extra holes or dremel "milling" to fit. Many people are not going to want to mod their chassis, might not have the tools and/or skill to do so right, and/or want to be able to revert back to nitro (I shudder at the thought). So it only makes sense from a sales perspective to cater to the masses. And at the same time, I think he is trying to find a solution that will be relatively inexpensive. Not too many are going to want to buy a new chassis and all kinds of extra parts for a brushless kit.

I really debated whether or not to mod the chassis but I looked around at prices and a replacement chassis runs about $40. Not nearly as bad as potentially screwing up a 1/8th job. So far it's holding out. I re-did my battery tray much the same as yours. Uses the existing motor mount and servo holes. No need for further drilling there.

BP-Revo 04.26.2007 01:15 AM

Well, my 1530/8 has officially been ordered through Mike. I sent him an email and he says he will let me know when it gets here. I'll be very suprised if it beats my 1950/6 here...since the 1950/6 has been on order forever. I'll probably send him an email bugging him on the 1950 sometime this weekend.

Now, I just need to find a CAD program to design myself an extended chassis :D

BrianG 04.29.2007 05:55 PM

Well, I've run about a dozen packs worth through the CRT.5 with the hardened steel pinion and it still seems to be fine. You can see the wear marks, but the overall shape of the teeth are the same.

http://scriptasylum.com/forumpics/ha...pinion_16t.jpg

However, it seems to have developed a wobble, probably because of the 1/8" to 5mm sleeve adaptor. The motor shaft spins perfectly fine by itself. Also, 16T is simply geared too high to continue to use it in this vehicle. So, I'll save it as a spare for my Hyper 8, which is also using a steel spur for testing purposes. I know Mike is working on a plastic spur solution, and so is someone else here, so I think I'll wait until then.

Serum 04.29.2007 05:59 PM

I kind of lost track on this topic; but is that an RC-monster pinion? it looks like it... are these the new hardened or the 'normal' pinions?

I personally don't see a sign of wear, (perhaps it's the photo) i only see the silver thru the black coating.. (which is pretty normal)

BrianG 04.29.2007 06:44 PM

Yes, it's one of Mike's pinions. I have a couple I am testing for him because I really think a solid, consistent mesh is the key to their longevity. Mike just asked me to post my results of this test here. I also have one on my Hyper 8, but haven't run that nearly as much since I'm saving it for race days.

And yeah, there is really no wear. The picture tells the story. I just have to stop using it because of the bore adaptor sleeve. Somehow it must have worn and the pinion wobbles slightly. I did have a time where the grub screw got loose so I suppose the shaft spinning at high speed on a stationary sleeve probably wore it down a little.

IBJAMMIN 04.29.2007 08:38 PM

Very interesting most of the pinions I have seen on the larger cars were destroyed by the metal spur I believe there is an old post here somewhere a guy tried the hardened pinions in a CRT and they failed? from his pics though it looked like he had alot of flex in his mount causing the pinion to fail. :)

Serum 04.30.2007 02:18 AM

These pinions appear to be the thing then.. Great..

IBJAMMIN 04.30.2007 03:14 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Hey I was looking around and found this it's made by RRP for the Losi 8 it is wider then the STD steel spurs I dont know if Losi diff's are the same size as the Jammin diff's? but with the wider gear face the STD mod 1 pinions may work and it looks like this gear is offset away from the diff mount it might be posible to get this gear in the CRT.5 without having to relocate the diff holes in the chassis. :032:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/12852

BP-Revo 04.30.2007 11:26 PM

Yea, but its still a steel spur, which poses the issue. If only RRP made a nylon version of that...then we may have something. I think I will wait for Mike's solution though.

BrianG 05.01.2007 11:13 AM

OK then, someone needs to make a palstic mold of that gear! Serioulsy, there are a couple people working on a plastic gear solution. One person, who will remain unnamed, is working on a 32p version for more gearing choices.

BrianG 05.03.2007 09:20 PM

Looks like Jammin is finally starting to release some of the hop-up parts for the CRT.5: http://www.jamminproducts.com/CRT5option.html

BP-Revo 05.03.2007 09:38 PM

Yea...I've been waiting for a few of those.

MetalMan 05.03.2007 10:19 PM

How about the 7075 chassis? I imagine that would help reduce chassis flex quite a bit.

gixxer 05.03.2007 10:23 PM

I just started building mine today. I really am not in a rush since I am waiting for someone to adapt a spur. I do think a 32p or 48p spur would be great to give us more gearing options. Pinions would also be cheap since you can get them at any lhs.

BP-Revo 05.03.2007 10:26 PM

Well, according to Tower's description the Pro version (kit version) comes with a 7075 chassis.

I beleive that the aftermarket 7075 is a lightweight version or something, unless the current chassis really isn't 7075.

BrianG 05.03.2007 10:28 PM

Once you put the battery tray in place, there is VERY little flex, if any. I would be more interested in the Al diff mounts, CNC braces, steering knuckles, and rear hub. Hopefully, RPM eventually makes lower arms for it. It should be fairly indestructable after all that!

BP-Revo 05.03.2007 10:29 PM

Gixxer, keep in mind that since it is direct drive, there is no slipper to absorb and drivetrain shock (first thing to go will probably be the spur). 32P will probably be fine, but I think 48P will be pushing it.

I personally have never stripped a spur in my life (knock on wood).

You could ask Mike to design some sort of adapter that will allow the use of Robinson 32P spurs that normally go on the Slipper Kits. That would allow you to switch from 65, 66, 68, and 70 or 72, 74, 76 (the larger spurs require a larger diameter mount).

I was actually thinking about this - it would make gearing an ease.

riceman 05.03.2007 10:30 PM

Nice. I just got an order in the mail today for the rear uprights I broke in my collision the 1/8th scale buggy. About a dozen packs through and my tally so far is one rear upright (p/n 40843), one broken 4mm ball end (p/n 37650), one arm end ball (p/n 40838).

IBJAMMIN 05.03.2007 11:03 PM

Chassis flex is not a problem with the battery mount and motor mount bolted to the chassis. :) The only weak link I have found is the brittle plastic used in the suspension pieces A trick used on the full size CRT was to boil the plastic parts in water to soften them up some. I just got my order of spare's from Nitrohouse I think I might cook up some CRT.5 parts tonight. :005:

BTW the pro kit comes with the hard anodized chassis and towers the RTR will probably come with a cheaper version I hear BCE is already working on a replacement and longer wheelbase chassis?

glassdoctor 05.03.2007 11:18 PM

I little birdie has told me we may have a bolt on 32p gear very very soon

This will be perfect because it allows common 1/8" pinions to be used....

jnev 05.03.2007 11:22 PM

Did the little birdie tell you a date when this will happen?:005:

gixxer 05.03.2007 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glassdoctor
I little birdie has told me we may have a bolt on 32p gear very very soon

This will be perfect because it allows common 1/8" pinions to be used....

that would be perfect. I still have all my pinions from the emaxx so I wouldn't even need buy any more gears.:018:

BP-Revo 05.03.2007 11:50 PM

I like the sound of the extended chassis.

However, the Pro version does not come with the upgraded shock towers. The upgraded are even thicker but include cutouts to save weight. They are stiffer though (in my opinion, not really a big deal because as far as I can tell the shock towers are stiff as hell).

Serum 05.04.2007 01:52 AM

With these options they can make a real pro kit version.. I don't understand why the current version is considered a pro kit..


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