andy, where did you purchase those from? I am trying to get onto the NCC website, but it's being dumb. What are the specs on them? They look nice anyway.

specs is here

KZM http://www.chemi-con.com/files/KZM.pdf
ALL Alu cap's http://www.chemi-con.co.jp/pdf/catal...d-e-070315.pdf

but i am purchase from our local auction.

you can try here http://goods.ruten.com.tw/item/show?11070501028241

hope this help.

AAngel- bummer man. I take it you can put it back to stock still, and solder the old caps back on too. Worst case is S&T warantee it and then you can sell it when you get it back.

I have it all back together. I figure worse case is that they won't warranty it and I have to buy another at a discounted price. If it comes to that, I don't know what I'll do. I may just trash it or give someone else the opportunity to have it replaced.

When I was running it (the Quark) at the track, my friends who usually drive my truck were asking what I had done to it. They said that it seemed more abrupt and not as smooth and forgiving. They suggested that I go back to what I had before, which was the Mamba Max.

Today, I wired the MM with the four cap bank back up to the 8ight T and you know...I do like it better than the Quark. Running 14/46, it's still a killer on the track, the esc doesn't break a sweat, and it's so smooth (as long as I don't overgear it) that I can actually do some rock crawling with it when I'm running the 40 series Moabs.

It's cost me almost $600 to wind up where I started, with the MM. If I had that money back, at this point I'd just go and buy three or four more MMs and just stick 'em on the shelf in case I need them. There's just that Neu issue though.

Perhaps I'll get surprised with my Compro sitting on my doorstep sometime soon. I'll give that another try and see if the software issues that I was having were resolved. I do have to say, the Compro is one cool customer. That thing never got over 150 and I didn't do anything to keep it cool.

The KZM are nice. 0.028 ESR, the Nichicon's are 0.060 ESR. I wonder what the stock caps in the Quark are?

If I can find a supplier, I would use Nichicon HC 35v/220uF (0.026 ESR), the best I have found is a minimum order supplier of 600. :005: :024:

Wow, you are just @$$ backwards in terms of what other ppl have experienced here AAngel! :005:

I have never had a MM, but I know my Quark was glass smooth and smooth torque start, never cogged.... until, well you know.

Then everyone is saying that the MM coggs alot with some setups, and is not very smooth. But you sure are having some good luck with your Mamba now! So you're sure it was the caps that made a difference then?

Well, as I've mentioned before...I have one particular MM that has really treated me right. I don't know that the others that I have wouldn't, but this one has done all I've asked of it. Just keep in mind that I am running a relatively mild motor (9XL) in a relatively light truck (8ight) with conservative gearing that gets me around the track quickly. With the setup that I have right now, the MM is buttery smooth with the Feigao motor on 4S geared at 14/46 and 16/46.

Due to the Neu motor issues with the MM, I am now back to considering the Lehner 1940/9 (or maybe the 8); but the only place that has them in stock is a place that I refuse the do business with.

I would agree that the Quark is smooth, but it also starts rather abruptly too. With the MM I can start off at a crawl and gradually build up speed. Once the Quark kicks in, it's moving at faster than a crawl.

Tomorrow I'm planning on taking out my Hyper 8 with Neu 1512 2.5D and MM, along with a 4-cap (330uf low-ESR from AAngel) bank attached to the ESC with short 12ga. wire. I also redid the hardwiring of the motor leads, so hopefully that will produce an improvement.

MetalMan, how did you redo the motor leads? Do you mean that you just replaced them? I've been running 12 gauge wire on my MMs, but don't have a motor that would tell me if they made a difference or not.

Be sure to let us know how the 1512 ran. I find myself in a position to be able to buy a Neu motor, but don't want to until I have a dependable controller to run it with. I know that many have run the Quark, but to me, the Quark is yet unproven. I have my eye on a 1512 1.5Y.

I just resoldered the motor wires, since I needed to put some heatshrink over them anyways. I used pliers to compress each set of two wires together while the iron was on them to get the best contact possible.

OK, I just found a deal on a 1512 1.5Y that I couldn't pass up. So begins a Neu chapter. I guess I'm about to find out is the caps and wiring make a difference.

Great! I can't wait to here how it runs then afterwards.

Just wondering, does anyone know how a 1512/2Y performs/handles with 6s LiPo?

I don't think there is a 1512 1Y. Do you mean 1512 2Y? 1400kv motor? If so, I would imagine that it would be bad a$$; and I mean that in a good and bad way. I've found anything more than 4S to be good for nothing but speed runs. It's even too much for bashing. The torque is insane. With my 9XL on 5S, just blipping the throttle too hard puts my truck on its roof.

If you go with the 2Y on 6S lipo, all I can recommend is Gorilla glue for the tires instead of CA, and forget about bead locks. Or actually, maybe bead locks AND Gorilla glue.

I been having great luck with the Mambas too! I ran a 7XL for a while in 1/8th buggy on 4s (14/46 gears), but it runs too hot (not the mamba though). Went to 8XL (motor still running pretty hot) and both are very smooth and mamba is very cool on the 8XL. I can run very smoothly even at low speeds and have NO cogging, even rolling backwards then going forward will cause a bit only sometimes. I have more cogging with the mamba 5700 in my MT2 running on 3s, still only if I try. That rig really pushes the mamba motor to the max at 5 pounds, geared for 50 mph+. Of course I can say nothing about the Quark as I never had one (33a one in miniLST runs real smooth and cool, though).

Yes, I meant 2Y, sorry (Edited)

I would like to upgrade my motor from my 7XL someday (no time soon), and I want to keep about the same power as my 7Xl setup but be running 6s LiPo for low current setup and cool runnings.


I'm just throwing this out there: Does anyone have a burnt out Quark that is far past warranty date and doesn't mind giving it up for tests? This would be for measurements and fitting tests with my custom quark case.

ZPB, if cooler running is your goal, you don't need to go to voltage extremes. I, like you, have envisioned a higher voltage system that would draw fewer amps and run cooler. I thought that I could reach a point with a Feigao motor that would run cool. I've progressed downward from the 7XL, to the 8XL, and now to the 9XL. I tried just going slower and adding voltage. What I have discovered is that the cheapo Feigao motors are going to run hot no matter what, in any setup that delivers any sort of respectable performance.

I've read a few posts of guys talking about their 9XL or 10XL setups running ice cold. After my experimentation and experiences, I think that they are either full of it, or they just aren't pushing their setup.

I've talked with Mike about the subject on the phone and the conversation was a revelation to me. He informed me that just going with a more efficient motor will significantly cut the running temp of the motor and you can still run on 4S.

If you think about it, the Feigao is only about 80% efficient, at best. The Neu motors are about 90% efficient. I'd imagine that most would say that there is only a 10% difference in efficiency and that it couldn't make that much of a difference. Well, there is only a 10% difference in efficiency, but that's not the way to look at it. If you really think about it, the Neu is only wasting half as much energy as heat as the Feigao motor is. This means that the Neu motor will run much cooler. If you want cooler running, then go with a more efficient motor. No need to kill yourself running higher voltage just to run cooler.

I, personally, have found 4S to be the best way to go for racing and gets the job done for bashing. Higher voltage is good for going fast. If fast is what you want, then go for it; but going to 6S with a Feigao isn't going to get you a cool running setup. I don't think so anyway. I haven't seen it.

If adding CAP bank to ESC isnt bettter to add just one cap with higher capacity? like 2200uF? they even have lower ESR than thesmall ones.

AAngel: Yeah, I know that even switching from a Feigao to a Neu or Lehner will make a huge difference. I too, like to consider that (80 to 90%) as being twice as efficient. But I don't really want a Feigao motor like you said, I want a Neu with a very low Kv, and run as high voltage as I can on my Quark (hopefully that is 6s if better/more caps help) to KEEP the same power as a ~7Xl on 4s. I would prob run 6s/5000mAh.

6s doesn't always mean extreme power... 6s on the 1512/2Y is 30,000rpm, and how much torque does it have? Same as an XL Fiegao? It won't be crazy at all, IMO.

Wallot: Using smaller is better than using one large one because the larger you go the worse the ESR is relative to their capacity rating. Typically. 220, 330uF caps are a good size to use.

is there any capacity limit (total in paralel) that i should not go over?

No, no limit at all. You just have to remember that the larger the capacity, the larger the spark will be upon plugging batts into controller.

ok thanks. so far everything seems ok but one never knows what quark will do :)

I wouldn't go crazy; the inductance might be a point of concern at a certain point?

Wallot: I checked out your webpage... Is that a Silencer heatsink you have your Quark sitting on top of?! :018:

Serum: I'm not really sure on that. You think that would be a problem?

One large capacitor has less surface area than several smaller caps of the same total value. This helps the caps shed the heat better. Also, don't forget that you combine the ESR values of several small caps just like resistors in parallel so the effective ESR will be about the same, if not lower, than one larger capacity cap.

So, to get 2200uF, you would need ten 220uF caps in parallel. Then, if each of those 220uF caps have 0.01 ohms of ESR, that would equate to 0.001 ohms total.

Smaller caps may be easier to physically install as they can be arranged in any formation to make it fit. The only downside to use multiple caps is the wiring hassle.

I took out my Hyper 8 with MM, Neu 1512 2.5D, Maxamps 4s 5000HV, and 4-cap bank. Unfortunately the cogging was still there as before, but it didn't seem as harsh as before when it did occur (which was roughly 50% of dead-stop pulls of the trigger). However, I DID notice a difference in temps - the motor seemed to be maybe 10deg. cooler, the battery was a bit cooler, and the MM didn't even feel warm (although this time it did have a small 25mm fan). I can play around with the ESC settings to see if I can reduce the startup cogging.

That's interesting that your motor would run cooler, maybe it is switching from phase to phase more efficiently? Just a guess.

So i guess it does not help the MM with cogging the Neu motors, must simply be the software, and nothing but.

At this point though, it looks like it is for surely helping to reduce esc running temp.

Well, I got my Quark back today, surprisingly fast. :003:

It is raining today, so no running. I took it apart and tried to look at the capacitor markings.... the brand looks like it's 'SANNHA' 'WB' series. I have never heard of that brand, and I can not find a SINGLE thing searching for it.

I think S&T are having trouble with 'Quality Control', my new Quark has a few near cold solders. And the caps have burn marks all around from soldering them on. The middle motor wire does not have solder on the top half of the pcb, not good.

So I was pretty dang close as far as guessing the measurements for my custom quark case. Only .5 - 1mm off hear and there.

I will fix all measurements and post a screenie of the quark case.

Hi Zeropointbug

i am glad your quark get back.

It's SAMWHA is korea cap's manufacturer.
the datasheet here WB http://www.samwha.co.kr/upload/CAT_E/list_pdf1/WB.pdf

Those look like very good caps (very low esr rating), though I wander what the rated voltage is on them- if its 25v maybe thats why they dont like 6s (until the power drops off from full charge a little)?

unfortunately !

Is 330uf/35V stock. can't support 6S is not Cap's problem!
since Quark esc is 5S max, i think they mistake data.
i am very sure.


so in korea local hobby shop they quark alway is
Cells : Ni_Cd 5~16 cell
Lithium 2~5 cell

take look here http://www.psyhobby.com/shop/shopdet...ch=&sort=order

Perhaps there has been an increase in popularity for the Quark controllers and they are having trouble meeting demand?

Thanks Andy, they do look pretty good.

They are 35V, 330uF, and 0.0038 Ohm ESR Impedance.

No one knows what the problem is with the Quark not liking 6s LiPo. It could be alot of things, but maybe it's not enough capacity on the caps, just maybe. Has anyone actually ran 6s Lipo with 100% success?

silentbob343, maybe, it's a shot in the foot though really, for them, if something goes wrong with them. I sure hope this one works as it's supposed to. I wonder how much these would cost if made in the US, or Canada? :005:

Zeropointbug

i am updata #310

look http://www.psyhobby.com/shop/shopdet...ch=&sort=order

How come that says 5s lipo? Is that in Japan, or Korea?

Also, why does it say 2-5% POWER UP turbo, what is that?

is in korea.

Free Dead Quark
 

Why yes I do. I stripped one down to make it run cooler, and it got into a fight with my spur gear (and lost). it has no heat pads, and some slight damage to it, but good to pry at and see how their made. I'd be glad to see it go to some use.

Have you added a place for 4 caps yet? I cut part of my case off and put 3 caps across from the other 2 caps, and 1 more next to them. 4 caps added right to the board. (FrankenQuark!!)



I love my Quark, I mod everything for racing , so 'fixing it' was going to happen anyway. The tips in this thread have been very helpfull.

So what do you mean, is it fried then?

I will only accept it if it is non-usable to you. Thanks in advance! :027:

AAngel: IIRC, it was you that said you talked to Frank at S&T and said there was a banch of Quark's with bad caps? Did he say when these were made, or when they were sold?

Fried, chewed up a little, missing parts. It came loose from the chassis of my 8ight, right after I removed ALL of its case (reckless of me), and was killed by the spur gear. After it died, I used it as a guide to figure out how I was going to do mods on its replacement. (I wanted to add caps to the board, and repair the faulty inner FETs heat sink design, and found where the two 'boards' seperate making it a lot easier.)

I'm done tinkering with it, and threw it into my broken parts box. Its missing 1 cap, the on/off switch, and both heat sinks. (heat batteries is more like it)

I have the case, and 2 sets of end covers as well if you need these. Let me know.

I use UPS, they go up north dont they? If not, I think its small enough for U.S. Mail. E-Me and let me know, I'd be more then happy to ship it to you.

The info in this thread was well worth it, and I may want to be on the list for your after market case too.....:027:

ZPB, Frank didn't mention any specifics.

I finally got an email from S&T yesterday. They said to send it in and they might warranty it. I know that I did the mod to it and I was working on it, but on the other hand, the Quark wasn't put together very well either. I'm hoping that they will warranty it.

I also heard from MGM and they said that they got my Compro just yesterday. I sent it via Global Priority, but it took over three weeks to get there. This sucks. If my Neu doesn't run well with the MM, then it's just going to have to wait.

If S&T doesn't warranty the Quark, I don't think I'll be getting another. I think that S&T has much of their resources devoted to the new controller that they have coming out and the Monster Pro is suffering because of it. I mean, what are the odds that I'd get two Monster Pros in a row that would give me trouble.