Yes, that would be much appreciated! Now that I know that auto-calibration will not work, I won't continue down that path, and can probably figure it out on my own. But, it'll be nice to have the procedure listed somewhere for others with similar setups...

OK, my settings are as follows;

Under the "Basic" tab, these are the settings;

Brake strength 50%
Brake delay .3 second
Throttle type-- Airplane, fixed endpoint
Brake ramp-- Slow


Under the "Advanced" tab my settings are;

Motor start power-- Low (39)
PWM rate-- 13 khz
Throttle response-- Custom 10
Motor timing (Neu 1515/3D/F) Standard advance

I hope that helps!

Matt

Oh, if you need help from Castle, ask for Joe Ford or Bernie. Those are the guys who know what's what. ;)

Matt

Thanks! If you could, what are your radio settings? Like EPA, trim, etc...

I will check that.

I know my throttle end point is 120% and my brake is 50%. I do not know what the trim is set at.

Matt

Well, I attempted to use the fixed endpoint setting on the ESC but could never quite get the endpoints set so the motor doesn't run at neutral AND allow the ESC to arm. So, I installed the Pistix adaptor. Talk about painless. Works great and easy to use - installation went like this:

- Hook the adaptor to the Rx throttle channel.
- Hook a servo to the adaptor (just to get the settings right).
- Played with the endpoints a little so the servo acted correctly. It should not move during braking, only throttle.
- Replace the servo cable with the ESC throttle cable.

ESC arms just fine now. Programming with the radio is a little touchy because of the throttle settings, but possible. Not that I plan to do much programming via the radio...

A funny thing happened though. Once I got it all set up, I ran full throttle on 14v just to test. Well, I apparently forgot to tighten down the rear tire nut. Both the nut and tire came off. The nut spun off the bench (took me a while to find the sucker), but the tire took off, hit the wall, bounced backed and hit me in the head. :oops:

Ok???
 

Well first of all we hope that you are ok. Second :rofl::lol::rofl::lol::rofl::lol::rofl:
Too bad you were not video taping. That would be one of those "Priceless" commercials.:whistle:

Sounds like something I would do! I had 2 tires come off the yusa when I was testing it, at the same time! And both bounced off a passing car! I easily found both wheel nuts, as they came loose just as I was slowing down to stop.

The pixstix really is easy to use, I have one on the savage with the GP esc and it works great.

Yeah, I'm OK, just a bruised ego.

A video would've been funny. But, I'm not in the habit of recording myself working on the bench. :smile: :wink:

Hey Guys,

I've built a DM-One using a Neu 1515/1d, 4S 14.8v, and a HV-110 ESC. I'm getting 7 light blinks on the ESC in neutral only. My manual only shows upto 5 blinks. Does anyone have an idea what 7 blinks translate too?

Thanks,
Al

Brian - Any updates?

Cheeky question - Do you have a pattern for that top plate?

Thanks

It looks like this project is on hold

Sorry Arct1k, no template. I just took a piece of bar stock and shaped it by eye.

Update:

DONE! Yay! It's been sitting with unfinished battery trays for a couple months now, but got around to finishing it. Came up with a battery tray scheme that is adjustable; accomodates lipo packs that are 80-110mm wide and 147-167mm long (150-170mm without foam pads). The length is adjustable by moving the front tray forward by 20mm.

All I need now are some lipos.

The required pics:

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...gtp_done_1.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...gtp_done_2.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...gtp_done_3.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...gtp_done_4.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...gtp_done_5.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...gtp_done_6.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...gtp_done_7.jpg

that thing is going to be a monster! great work

That thing looks great Brian! Maybe I missed it earlier in the thread, but what electronics are you running in it? Looks like such a simple and clean layout. :yes:

Thanks!

CC HV-110, pistix adaptor, Neu 1515 2.5d (kv=1650), Spektrum, stock servos. Was going to go with 10s lipo for top speed, but dunno. Might just stick with 8s. Either that, or get a different motor and go 12s. :smile:

sounds like a fun time driving :D

I won't know until I get some lipos, but I hope so! This is my longest-running project.

Looks great Brian, alot better than my cobbled together MBX/GTP bastard:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF1927.jpg

Wow BG, looking fantastic. That is one of the cleanest DIY jobs I have seen on a TC. I also love the porsche body. I have always been a 911 fan.

I would try it on 8s first. I think at that voltage on that motor that you will have a ton of gearing options and some blistering speed.

What's the final weight sans batteries?

Brian that looks really good. :smile:

you gonna run a gyro??

I don't know, probably not. But then again, once I do a few high speed runs just to see how fast it can really go, I'll probably drop the gearing to something more reasonable and play. If I do that, I might use a gyro to help compensate for my less-than-stellar driving skills. :smile:

I stopped by the LHS to show off my project. Let's just say I got a lot of positive feedback! No one recognized the GTP because of all the custom stuff, and once they knew, they couldn't believe it was all done with basic tools (Jigsaw, Dremel, files, hammer, vice). A couple even took pics with their camera phones to show the only other electric-head there; Dustin (glassdoctor), but I told them he's probably already seen this thread.

While there, I picked up a set of Revo springs for the front since the stock springs were not close to stiff enough to keep the front from dragging at high speed (lots of downforce) and weight. We started with the purple set (highest rate) and it was a REAL PITA to get on there! It took two of us, and neither are small guys! Well, all that work and purple was too stiff. I went down to the golds and it was perfect - still a PITA to get on there, but not near as bad. To match the front, I had to dial in max preload in the rears. Seemed just right. I'd like to get a stiffer set in the back so I don't need quite so much preload, but don't know what will work.

LOL!!! I got to the track and Shaggy (like 6'-6" and looks like the cartoon dude) showed me the pics he took... "you gotta see this" :surprised:

I was like... "oh yeah... I know all about that already..." :na:

:rofl:

But I would have liked to see it in person, so if you are by the track next Wed bring it along. :)

I know who you're talking about, but I didn't see him there? It was a few other guys. Justin (I think that's his name - the guy behind the counter) and a couple other guys I didn't recognize. It must have been when I was looking for other parts.

That looks amazing Brian, great job on it. You make me want to get one. :yes:

Thanks, E-Traxxer.

Anyone know where to get a suspension spring coupler? I tried searching, but don't think I'm using the right terminology. The rear-end of this car is too soft even after dialing in max preload - especially after installing Revo springs in the front. But I don't know of a stiff-enough spring I could use there. So, I thought I'd use the stock rear spring along with the stock front spring stacked together, but I need something that will keep them inline. I hope I explained that well enough.

How much does the car weigh Brian? Mine is about 9lbs ready to run and I was able to get the rear arms slightly above level with stock springs. I played around with the mounting positions.

I would think that a piece or two of heat shrink, applied when the springs are assembled end to end with the shock body in the center would work. Maybe add a small amount of glue to help it hold together. Or find a piece of thin wall plastic tube that fits perfectly to the outside of the spring, but that sounds hard to find. Heatshrink sounds like the thing I would use...

I llike the idea, and was going to suggest to stack 2 springs together (revo or jato) to get the extra length. Came up with that a few days ago, while staring at my gtp.

B4maz: Not sure how much it weighs, but it's a bit on the porky side for a racer - at a guess, around 9lbs without batts. There's a lot of material to make the chassis very stiff and to keep airflow under the car.

linc: Yeah, I tossed around a few ideas, but I could have sworn I saw what I was talking about somewhere. I think I've seen an emaxx or two that used dual springs and used this type of coupler. Don't know if something like this is made for 8th scale though. I guess I'll just look around for ideas...

The HPI Savage Big Bore shocks (HPI upgrade) have these spring coupler things. Honestly I can't think of a name for them either, but maybe it would help to know that they are used to create a progressive spring setup.

Hmm, searching tower turns up nothing. Either use dual springs, or find a regular set stiff enough. Maybe a set of the stiffest spring option with the preload maxed may be good enough. Hmm.

Nice Project....So when are you gonna be running this? :whistle:

OT: BTW, where did you get that 911 Body? I can seem to find any online shop that have it on stock...

Brian,

GS Racing used them for a "dual rate" spring kit. I have them and aren't using them, so PM me and I'll send them to you.

Truckbasher: It came with the Ultra GTP kit. Already painted, all I had to do was cut it out and attach the stickers. I'd imagine you can order the body seperately.

killajb: Thanks! I'll be sending you a PM...

Well you can order, its just that all of them are out of stock. Tower, RCBOYZ etc. good thing my project isn't completed so body is yet the list on my worries..

Anyway, hope to see your high speed runs soon..... :yipi:

Hey Brian. I thought I would post some info of my first test runs with my converted Inferno GT so you can have an idea of possibilities.

- Feigao 7L
- MM ESC
- FP 4S 5000mah
- 21/44 gearing
- Ferrari body

We tested this setup on Wednesday night and it did quite well in my opinion. I am running 2 60mm fans, 1 for the motor and 1 for the ESC blowing right on them. No holes cut out in the body. The fans work GREAT!! They were from CompUSA for $5 each and are rated at 26CFM/12V. We maxed 71mph on the radar and easily got 10 minutes of bashing. I did not get to run it longer as I am using the RCM 2 speed adaptor and a Losi 2nd gear pinion but I did not think about putting on the 1st gear and I backed out the gear due to braking!! I think this car has the potential to push triple digits with as little as 6S!! The problem I see is getting the right body!!

They have the bodies here, but at one heck of a premium!!!!

http://www.deltaplastik.it/index.php...at2=11&cat3=15

That's nice to know, and on 4s with an L motor no less. I bet my conversion is a little heavier than yours, but I'm running a Neu 1515 2.5d on 10s lipo, so that should help.

I'm still waiting for lipos from Mike. Actually, I'm gonna get dual 5s packs so that I can use them individually in my e-Slayer conversion, and use them in series for this car. Just gotta make sure I run them both about the same number of times to keep things consistent.

How important is the two speed set up? I have a 1515 2.5d and a 6s 3700 pq pack in my inferno gt and have no yet driven it because its been raining every day for the last 2 weeks! I'm hoping it rocks with a single speed set up...I did that so I could gear it anyway I wanted to.

You should be fine. I run a gtp on 4s lipo and a kb45 8l with a single speed and it does fine. Current gearing is 20/51, good for 45+ mph...