I mess around with it a little and got it to fit with the 46tooth gear in the vertiicle milled out area in the chassis. Its real tight and has to be in there perfect or the spur will hit the brace. The dog bone also is going to have to be pretty short though but it looks like it will work.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2780.jpg

Yup, the holes need to be drilled perfectly or else either side of the 46T spur will hit the rails. This is the main reason I went with the 44T.

It's easier for me to change the current pinion to a 10T truggy pinion to lower my top speed and diff ratio instead of drilling perfectly -lined/spaced holes in order to use a 46T spur.

Yeah... that does look a little tight..

I didnt realize till now that the slipperential comes with a 46 tooth spur that would be the ultimate to get one of those in my g2maxx. It will fit perfect if its mounted perfect or I can shave a little material off the inside of the brace which wont hurt the integrety at all. I need to source somebody who makes dogbones or find them allready made for other rc's.

Beau, what's the gap between your x-braces? I'mm just curiios if it's the same compared to the G1 chassis.


Edit:
Mike needs to make some more of his mount. I need at least 1 more to convert my supermaxx to brushless.

I cant find my good caliper but with my cheapy pocket chum its a hair over 46mm also, probably the same. Like I said the verticle triangle area is where I put the spur gear and it is tight probably less than 1mm clearence on either side.

I think your going to have to remove a little material for to work well... you also have to consider the movement (even if it may be slight)
the CD might have under high torque situations or even bumps.. the spur might make contact with the rails while running.

they're saying the chassis rails of a gorillamaxx need to be clearanced, not Mike's mount

Making a 52t spur fit
 

In the interest of greater gear reduction I made a 52 tooth spur gear fit in my cd/motor mount. I first flipped the top plate over, the tapped holes that attach the top plate to the motor mount are not centered, they were biased to the top by about 1.5mm, and this extra clearance was needed. It sucks, because then the RC-Monster logo is hidden, but it had to be done.

I must mention now that you do this mod at your own risk, it will very likely weaken the mount. To compensate for this I used longer screws then are supplied with the mount. The holes that are dremeled by are deep enough that you can use a screw that will span past the affected area and get into the meat of the mount.

My pictures aren't that great, but they should give you a good idea what I did.

This is the top plate. I ground the top which becomes the bottom:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...zed_/diffm.jpg

Here I attempt to show how close you get to the screw holes:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l...ed_/diff2m.jpg

random hand porn:

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l..._/handporn.jpg

I tried to show what I dremeled. Also, the ofna diff has a little play front to back, so the diff needs to be shimmed to the back so the spur stays as close as possible to the mount. If it wasn't shimmed it could slide forward, and even more material would need to be dremeled off.

geez... you guys definitely love using your hands :lol:

Harold, is that linc's hands?

mount works like a champ just use 2 rear 100.5 dogbones and you are set ordering some rcm treys for it

Looks great bro. Your idea just gave me a reason to start running my thunder chassis again.

That looks real good :yes:... may I have more please.

Here are some more pictures of my build.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture004-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture005-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture006-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture007-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture008-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture009-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture013-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture014-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture016-1.jpg
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...cture017-1.jpg

Suspension is UE's EXT Pro, driveshafts are X1 CRT universals so I can use my 17mm Dace hub adapters, front shocks are UE supershocks while the rears are ST RR fronts. I will be running either 5 S 4100 in parallel or 5S 5000mah in series.

That's looking good George... do you have any shots from the side of the truck illustrating how low the motor is really sits? ...hmmmmm... I'm wanting a set of those arms now... they look so good on any truck... nice build man.

More please... :)

I happen to have a set of ue ext arms I am selling pm me if your interested. Looks awesome lito. Love the motor in the center.

Lito, 5s 5000 in a series, i'm assuming you are talking about using a 2s and 3s in a series correct?

I will be running a 2S and 3S for 5S in series (I currently have 2 x 2S and 2 x 3S Neu 5000mah batts for my son's buggy, 2 battery conversion setup from Castle). However, I will also be running a pair of 5S 4100 mah Neu batteries in parallel for long runtimes (I have 4 of them that I bought from Neu sale $85 apiece).

Angry-alien, here a shot you requested. Clearance/gap is about 6-8mm.
Gap between the motor and chassis is about 7mm.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...s/DSC06941.jpg

Turck is finally finished but I will not be able to run it this weekend because of rain :no::no::no:. I'll get a video once I get a chance to run it.

Incredible maxxes guys, mount looks great in there. Looks like george needs a new set of tires tho. Can't last long w/ that power :)

Thanks. I will be using those tires for pavement runs only. It used to be my holeshots but they're slicks now :intello::intello:.

HOLY $H!T George...I haven't seen a G1 chassis in YEARS...

I scored it from fleabay a couple of years ago for $41 shipped :party::party:. It still work just as good as the newer versions. I'll be making a longer chassis plate.

Sent... :)

Thanks Lito... that's really low in there...

WOW! What a Steal!!!!!!!

please somebody explain why its better with a CD than a tranny.
i have a FLM maxx and i like the look whit a CD, but is it better?
CC 2200kv MMM and 5s.

-i need new pinions front and rear
-Diff, any suggestion?
-what gearing and oil?
-CVD?

please

As I said to you two times before in you build thread:
You can keep the diffs, just need the 10T pinions from HB.

yes i know that. I wrote that i need new pinions. and i asked for CD suggestions...

I sense a little hostility in the answer there :whip:lol

Yeah well, happenes from time to time when some one askes the same question time after time agein...

But since this time it was a different question: Sorry, my mistake.
As for the CD I think I allready said that you could use any centerdiff, as long as it fits into you mount.
The safest option would be a CD with 44T, this should fit in most configurations.
I know for a fact that Kyosho makes 44 and 46T center diffs, but I'm shure there are many other manufacturers...

As far as better, it depends on your wants from the truck. Do you want a basher and beater, don't care about turning radius or limited slip action all around?

The tranny will provide more gear reduction, which I find helps things run cooler eventhough you gear for the same speed. A tranny will allow all wheel action all the time. Slow crawling or climbing obstacles or maybe mudding wont be an issue.

The CD allows for sharper turning and proportionate power distribution.

Not to mention
 

Not to mention a lower center of gravity, and semitry in design which some prefer. It looks cleaner and creates a better balance overall.

George I was thinking of making my build nice and clean to unsure of what color scheme to use or motors guess it is going to take some time these are my parts mostly unlimited engineering and some blue hardcore, but I am looking at that mount for sure,Gotta thank plettenburg and billystrucks , these are some pics, Definitely going to be asking questions :whistle:

I will run it but easy maybe once the finger starts the pushing I get trigger happy so maybe I will make a basher too I have the bulks in blue also

Nice build Swift. I hope you didn't pay much for those setbacks because they are not the real UE setbacks. I'm sorry to inform you this.

I know the difference since I got both real and fake setbacks (got burned on it 2 years ago).

tell me the difference

I think I made the purchase but I wanted setback arms not worried if it was ue for that part (setback) I have the arms in hardcore also not setback just wide

Sore subject for the Maxx guys that love UE parts...

Be careful
 

Yea you have to be careful who you purchase UE parts from. Make sure if you buy from anyone that you get clarification as to whether or not the parts are actually genuine UE parts or counterfeits. The best way is to buy them from the UE store or at least from reputable people here on the UE forum. You can always come here and ask for advice on a certain pruchase and someone here can verify its authenticity. Dealing with certain folks on the Bay is a very risky transaction for sure.