Yeeahh, it runs ! You have spent so many time on this project, happy for you that the truck is finished.
For the pinion, maybe you can try novak ones with plastic spur gear (like mbx6 eco center diff)...

Thanks for the comments guys!!! yes it is definitely performing, and seems to handle nicely... Im just going to stiffen up the front suspension slightly as it is sagging a little.

Sparky - haha 1717??? nonono... im usinig the 1520 1600kv... im pushing it just over its limit on 9s at 4.2V at 63000rpm... We will see how it holds out... obviously im expecting premature wear etc... but its all a bit of fun.

NUZ! I KNOW RIGHT! been a very long time! I think you are right though... i may need to run a plastic spur with a steel pinion just to reduce the wear and strain on the pinion.

I cannot just go for any old centre diff though... i need one that has very tough internals and an alloy case...

I wish i could run a huge spur gear, but it isnt possible as it may not fit under the diff top plate... so what is a very strong, durable plastic spur available with a decent alloy case and strong internals???

More vids to follow as soon as the new pinions arrive :)

Plastic spurs are larger than steel spur. And as your spur/pinion mesh is protected against dust and small rocks under the chassi, the spur should be relatively durable ?
Given the weight of the truck and the power inside :oops:... hopefully it was just bad luck !

I see no need for a plastic spur. Get a new pinion, install it, and drive.

1717 would be even more nuts. :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=26750&page=9

post 133 onwards :wink:

im not worried about the spur wearing, im worried about the pinion... So using a plastic spur would mean it wouldnt wear the pinion so quickly...

Plus plastic spurs are usually fatter right? like this savage plastic spur http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HPI-Racing-Sav...c#ht_896wt_887

so the contact surface area between the pinion and spur is greater and load is spread. That was just my thinking.

My initial idea was to run a 62spur, then i can use a 13t pinion instead of a 10t...but it wouldnt work with my diff top plate as it would protrude out the top...

Brian, i have just ordered two pinions so ill go through those first... but if i go through a pinion everytime i run the truck, then something needs to be done about it....
What gearing do you use brian and do you have problems with pinion or spur wear???

BMR i know a 1717 would be awesome... but 9s would be well over its safe operating limit, and the 1520 is only just over its 60k rpm rated limit. I dont really want to run a 1717 on 8s otherwise i would have just bought the castle MMHV which everyone is doing... i thought this would be a little different :yes:

Thanks for directing him neil!

You don't necessarily have to use alloy diff cup. A standard mugen MBX6 center diff with mugen plastic spur will do the job. Plus, mugen drivetrain and diffs parts are one of the most tough parts in RC market...
The more teeths your pinion will have and the more durable it will be ==> Gear up :lol:

I've run a few different pinions. One of them broke the first time out - I attribute it to a defective pinion, because the others have held up fine for many runs. Last summer I used the same 20t pinion all summer long - it showed some wear, but nothing out of the ordinary.

Hmmmm if i can get a 52T Mugen centre diff and then run an 11t pinion... i should most probably be ok... Im going to have a look at them... hopefully they are thicker than metal diffs... so the contact surface area is increased.

Brian! You use a 20t pinion? What spur size are you running? i know you are using a lower kv motor, but 20t! Thats huge!!!! if i geared a 20t pinion, i would be over the 110mph barrier haha

On the subject of plastic spur gears...I was running an 8E 45t plastic spur in my Muggy (until tonight, that is). I recently put some larger tires on it - just to try out. I'm running a CC1518 on 4s geared for 45mph or so and it weighs 12.5 lbs. rtr:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...no002Small.jpg

I've run this set-up a number of times now, but tonight after running through almost a whole pack, I gave a hard pull on the throttle and my plastic spur now looks like this:

http://i779.photobucket.com/albums/y...no001Small.jpg

I thought it might have got too hot, since it was about 95F outside, but the motor was about 145F, the CD about 135, and the outer edge of the spur itself was 125. So I'll put a 46t steel spur back in this thing - and save my plastic spurs for my 1/8 buggies.

What tires are those?

MGT 8.0 stock tires off eBay that I got very cheaply. I taped them with three overlapping wraps of Gorilla Tape, so they don't balloon, but they still have a lot of sidewall flex, so I wouldn't really recommend them.

Thanks brian! That just reaffirms what a few others have said... Plastic doesnt seem like the way forward...

A new pinion arrived yesterday, and i had 20 mins, so i knew i wasnt going to finish the installation... BUT i went as far as removing the centre diff to install the pinion...

WHAT DID I FIND?

The pinion was absolutely fine!!! The mesh was just completely thrown out, i guess i didnt torque the bolts down enough and even with loc tight, it still managed to move.

At least my novak pinion is absolutely fine. And i have 2 spares now just in case...

Im going to see how these wear over the next few packs... and i may order an RCMonster Pinion to compare...

My only option really is to get a low kv 1527 eventually and gear it up to the same speeds im achieving now on 9s.
I worked out with an 825kv 1527 motor i can use an 18t pinion and 47t spur to achieve the same speeds as i get on 9s. And i bet the motor would run cooler! i could even gear it up to 80mph...
isnt there a 1527 powered baja which weighs 30lbs and is geared to 80mph and supposedly doesnt get that hot!?

josh!!!!

you douche :P

you could have raced then!

gahh.... maybe you need a window in the tvp so you can see whats going on with the mesh? ;)

I KNOW JOE!!!! but i wouldnt of had time to get the truck ready in time anyway...

I could have just taken the batter box off and looked in through the side, or just taken the BEC tray off and looked in, but i have never had a mesh go bad on me so i naturally thought it was a pinion!

What mounts did you use for the CD? Too many pages to go through. :O

I got some custom ones made up for me.

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...4-10210053.jpg

when i went to tighten the screws, they were a little lose. I need to get some better hex drivers!

By the way, if you are planning on getting a 250-300$ motor, why not pick up the 2028?

I think the 2028 is overkill for my application, and may not benefit me.

It has a lower RPM limit of around 30,000k and is good for 8s.
The 1527 has a huge long can, easily capable of handling the weight of my 19lbs truck and has an rpm limit of 60,000k So i could even increase the number of cells im running for a laugh haha

Any addition of a new motor, would be re design of my TVPs and possibly result in new shafts being made up. The new larger motor would most definiltey have to be installed in the rear with the 3rd battery up front. I have already got ideas and designs for this...

But this will only happen at the end of this year or early next year as i have only completed this current project and want to run it to the ground.

Good points. I thought about picking up an XL combo, but I didn't realise it had a 30k RPM limit. It would have to be geared extremely high to compete with other smaller motors, which isn't really a viable option since space would already be quite maxed out with the massive motor. I guess I'll just pick up the ESC eventually. Perhaps the Ice HV you've got, since they are both in the same price range. I'm a bit worried about how to program it to work with a car though.

The 1527 is also a very powerful motor, so it should definately be a nice upgrade eventually.

Well when i heard about a guy on here running the 1527 in his 30lbs 4x4 baja... and his was geared for 80mph with the ice ESC running on 10s... I couldnt believe it! He said his temps were very cool.. .around the 110f range!

I love the sound of this air ESC... and in use with the pistix it works very well!

My cogging has been reduced, and although brian did warn me that it wouldnt be as smooth as an MMM, i really believe it is just as smooth or even better..... But the lack of motor brakes is a shame.. .but i always preferred the feel of mech brakes anyway.

I really need to run a lot more before i give my opinion.

Now that, I cannot believe - unless it is being actively cooled. My 1527 goes up to 160F on my 19lb buggy on 10s. No matter how good these motors are, they have less than 100% efficiency. So if you are putting a lot of power through them, some of that power is lost to heat - the motors will heat up.

That does sound incredible. As Brian said, it's doubtful that it's true, maybe he lives in a very very cold place.

Was it easy to program the Ice ESC for Car use? And have you gotten around to running the car full throttle yet? :P

Hmmmm... well all i know is that the 1527 will be ideal for my application...

Nope not tried full throttle... the motor has been re alligned and is back in the truck. Need to sort out the brakes and put it back together. It has a big day out on sunday as i have a meet to go to, but i will get it out saturday hopefully for some runs too.

Vids will DEFINITELY follow!

The ESC didnt really need any thing apart from raising the LVC and making sure no brakes are set etc... The pistix doesnt need any setting up either. Just plug and play!

My 1000 Posts... and i am returning to RC as i have been absent for a long while.

How are all you guys! i just had a quick browse and i see familiar names about!

Come say hi!

So after getting my life sorted, i am back for fun, with the same savage. Nothing has changed.

Just needed to buy a new Steering servo, and i have decided to ditch the baja tyres and go back to my SPIs on badlands. I want to reduce my temps and weight of the truck, whilst improving handling

Keep your eyes open for some action shortly

Josh - good to see you back on here. I've been busy with other stuff lately, so RC has been on the back-burner - but I get a chance to work on or drive something every once in a while.

I'll be watching what you do here.

-brian

Brian, thanks for popping in.

I certainly know what you mean about back burner. After I completed the build, I stupidly fried my steering servo. From that point I just full on stopped rc. I didn't sell up as I knew I would come back to it eventually.... And I here I am.

I doubt I will do anything crazy, I just want to get my monies worth and run the truck reliably. It is a pretty strong setup, only weaknessi think are the heavy wheels and tyres.

Pics and vids to follow next week hopefully.

Any new projects you have been working on in the past year?
Cheers brian.

Yes - I have my 1/6 Hummer up and running - still needs some more tuning but it's a solid set-up (with a new Castle 1717 motor that was sold in the Traxxas XO-1 "supercar") - see my sig for the link.

Its all good
 

Its all good JayJay. Nice to see people come back after they have been out for a while. I have pretty much cut myself off for a while as well. Too many other things to worry about money wise. I know it will all change again somewhere down the road, so the shop is sitting idle for now. Joe has been keeping us all entertained with his projects though. I have not seen James around in quite a while either. Harold is still rolling around in here from time to time. Its actually been kind of quiet all over hobby wise, and I am sure that our economy has a lot to do with that. If Obama gets re-elected it may be another 5 years until things get any better.

Did somebody say my name?:surprised:

It's good to have you back, like mentioned it's been pretty quiet around here.

I've been beating the snot out of my brushless 5b, I really want to upgrade to the losi 5th scale:yes: