No MiRatlhed,
I don't own a Savage. I only have the Emaxx with the two Topkick bodies. I did put a Transformer emblem on the back of the black topkick.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0302.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0301.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...c/DSC_0300.jpg

I didn't think you owned a Savage, I was referring to the above statement you made earlier and I was just advising you that the Savage shell might not fit on your Maxx.

Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking about doing that down the road. In fact the custom body that I had painted was originally ordered with that body. I changed it just because I had a feeling it would not work. I'm glad I did, and now you confirmed it.
thanks again,
Mike.

Yeah the one I got says Savage only on the header tag because the other one fits Maxx, Revo and Savage. Really makes me want to get the right one and still do my plan because your truck looks really sweet with that shell on it. His true fire work is amazing.

That is cool those shocks work good, I think they look great. Nice alternative to the older Maxx Powerstrokes in the past.

Yes I was going to go with the powerstrokes, but could not find a decent set at the time so I decided to go with the PL's and so far they have been working well. Thanks for the compliment, I think they turned out better than I thought they would.

OK. so I was driving the truck again this morning and I am still having some trouble with the steering. The truck goes straight when driving at moderate speed, but pulls hard to the right under full acceleration. So I decided to try just one servo at a time. Left front servo alone, still pulls some, but not as bad. Right servo alone will barely will turn the truck to the right, turns to the left fine. I think the right servo is bad. I am still waiting for the Hitec 9380's to come out, and I'm afraid I will have to wait until next year. I think I'm going to get a pair of 7955's that I will transfer over to my plastic Emaxx when the 9380's come out. Does anyone have experience with the 7955's? I really don't want to use an external BEC, and I'm hoping that I can use two of these without any issues. I know that a lot of you guys are going to say just use one servo, but I'm stubborn I want this truck a certain way. I just want to try to make two servos work. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys,
Mike.

As long as the servos aren't fighting each other too bad and you have the endpoints set right you won't need an external BEC. I've tested a couple servos and only saw amp spikes over 1amp with bad end points or when the servo was stalled. Constant draw was closer to .5amp with everything working properly, and the MMM BEC is rated for 5amps. I've never tried the 7955's but I hear they are very nice servos, I'm kind of a JR fan myself.

Just out of curiousity, what weight fluid did you put in the diffs. I have a problem with mine unloading a little and under hard acceleration the truck will kind of drift to one side. It's not exactly a pull, more a drift, but it does change direction a bit. I know putting in some heavier fluid will solve it, just haven't gotten around to it.

I have 7000k in the front 5000k in the rear, and 300,000 in the slipper. After I found the bad servo I decided to put a fourth wave spring on the slipperential. It would still slip a little under very hard acceleration. So I think I will have a little more flexibility with adjustments of the clutch. I will let you guys know how it works out.

Another short test drive today, and the 4th wave spring in the Slipperential makes all the difference in the world. It will throw the front wheels up in the air at will. No slip at all. I have it locked almost all the way. I will let up on the slipper so I can have just a little bit of slip. I don't want to have any problems when landing jumps on the throttle. It acts just like my plastic brushless Emaxx without the broken drive shafts and bulkheads.:whip: I can't believe it considering it is 13lbs!!!!!. I still have to order my Hitec 7955 servos as this is nearly impossible to keep straight:gasp: I think it will be near perfect once that is worked out.

I had used a 7955 in one of my trucks and one is plenty enough to turn the wheels. No need to install a second servo.

well I think I'm going to try to finish my original Emaxx (3908). I have UE diff covers, FLM bulkheads (regular) and RPM arms that I will use (Tru-track rears). I'm going to use the Traxxas metal CVD's that I have until they break. I will use FLM stock dog bones. I'm going to do dual servo savers (stock plastic ones) on this truck as well. I also will use the red anodized Traxxas trunbuckles, and the red anodized 17mm traxxas hexes that I was going to use on my full Metal Maxx. I'm going to use the stock transmission, I'm going to take it apart to make sure everything is perfect, and I'm going to use Gorilla Snawt grease on the gears. I'm also going to use the heavy duty anodized slipper clutch . I just need to pick up a used MMM 2200kv motor and ESC on ebay. I also just got my "free" Futaba receiver that I got for buying the 4 PKS. So I should be good to go. I won't do a build thread on this one , but I will post pics from time to time. This should be a real good basher!!!!

Sounds like a pretty sweet second truck! You should start another build thread for that project.

Hey Mike, I just ordered my slipperential and UCD mount and I already got the Ofna 131mm and the Duratrax 83mm center shafts. I was going to see if you could measure the holes where you mounted the UCD mount onto the center skid plate for me, so I could use the same center shafts? :angel: (Pretty Please!!) Also, do I need to contact Monster Mike about obtaining the right length upper bracket for the UCD mount? As I noticed you had problems with fitting the slipperential into the UCD mount on page 3.

Any help here will get me going a little smoother. Thanks in advance, and I am going to start my build soon and hope to finish over the winter time while work is slow.

Hey cliff,
here you go. Keep in mind that I used the FLM center skid plate, and the measurements are from the center of the holes to the first edge of the plate, (there is a beveled edge) not the very edge of the plate. The template that came with my motor mount must have been for an older version of the motor mount as the holes did not line up to my assembled mount. I assembled the mount and made my own template. I'm not going to do a full build thread, but I will post some pics along the way. Good to know your starting your build. As far as the top plate I think mike had some top plates go out that were the wrong size. If you have the Slipper assembled it should fit in it with no play. If does not sit in it right then let Mike know. Are you using the FLM chassis? if so pay attention to where I notched the frame. You will have to do the same if you want to use the same length drive shafts. Have fun and if you have any questions I will help any way that I can.
Mike.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...kec/RCsize.jpg

Thanks for the help CMAC! I will be using the FLM center skid and chassis as well, so I will have to notch the chassis for sure.

Big thanks for the pic and the dimensions. I haven't ordered my center skid plate yet so when I get it I will make sure I am reading the dimensions properly.

So the slipperential comes with a couple drive cups (8mm, I believe). But are you using a couple of these (in 8mm size) to connect to the 13 tooth gear shaft for the center shafts/dogbones to fit into?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RCM8mmdrivecup

Yes I did use both drive cups ,(8mm? I'm not sure either) on the Slipper.

Does anyone have any experience with this housing? Will it work with my stock Brushless emaxx transmission gears?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RDLogics-E-M...item45eb8a86fc

Yes
 

Yes that is a 3905 tranny case, which is the newer version of the EMaxx. It looks like a nice alternative for the stock plastic tranny case.

Seen a couple guys using those- no complaints & it does look rather nice- acts like a giant heatsink for the motor too which is... cool :lol: :yes:

So I think I might have told you guys that I bought UE diff cases and UE spider six gears around Sept. I had some time to pull the diff cases apart and to my surprise.... diff's are definitely not UE spider six diffs or Ofna six diff's. Man I'm pissed!!!!! I'm passed the 45 day mark so my chances for resolution
is slim to none. I was able to talk to an Ebay rep and was able to open a case on him so I hope something can be done. I can't believe that this has happened to me. Oh well you live and you learn.

Got a picture?

Doubt you'll get much luck unless the guy you bought them from was misinformed as to what he had purchased originally and decides to help you out, otherwise there is nothing you can do to get your money back via paypal past the 45 day mark. That's why you have to check these things over as soon as you get them rather than tossing them to one side for a couple months before getting round to using them... :neutral:

I know that now. I did not even know about the 45 day mark before this. I do now,& this will be never happen to me again!!!

Lessons learned
 

When you play long enough in this hobby all of us gets burned at one time or another. Unfortunately we all have to learn through experiences created on Ebay, craigs list, or even on these forums sometimes. Chalk it up to just that, a learning experience and remember this guy and share who it was on whatever forums you visit on a regular basis to help keep the rest of us from suffering the same fait. Such is life.

Jerry I'm going to take the high road on this. You or any member feel free to PM me, and I will give you his name.

Please
 

Please understand I am not poking fun at you. Your trying to take an ethical tact with this, when the guy has already been unethical with the way he dealt with you. If someone suckers me with a bad deal for whatever the reason I give them one chance to rethink their position and fix the problem. If the matter does not get resolved to your satisfaction or he does not at the very least live up to the advertised item, then it is time to bring them out into the open and warn everyone else about dealing with this guy. Its guys like this who helped us create the word ethical, because of their shameful attitude. Don't let him off the hook because you want to be a nice guy. He took your money and is laughing in your face, because he got away with a dirty deal.

His name is supersport657 out of AB Canada.

So I see the Ofna Spider six diff's on Amain hobbies web site. Can someone give me a link to the 13t pinion gear please?

Look at the ofna Hyper 7 parts and they should be one on page number 2 it does not say it is 13 teeth but it is you can look up part number to see if it is 13 teeth:)
WEB

Here is the link to the UE Instruction manual for the 6 Spyder diffs. This has the Ofna part numbers listed on the parts list.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...ctions-WEB.pdf

Thanks for so much for the link.

OK. I got the Hitec 7955 servos, and got them installed. The steering is much better, but still under hard acceleration it pulls hard to the left. It is a good amount of torque steer. I noticed when I pulled my UE diff cases apart it says nitro on one side and electric on the other. I assume that you place the ring gear on the electric/nitro side depending on what drives your truck. Could the side that the ring gear is on contribute to the torque steer? If I switch the ring gears to the other side wouldn't it just pull to the opposite side? I have 300,000 wt diff oil in the Slipper 7,000 wt. in the front diff, and 5,000 wt. in the rear diff. Should I go even heavier in the center diff?

I took the truck out to a very large parking lot this morning and it definitely pulls to the side. I have to correct with counter steer and if I don't time it perfectly when I let off the throttle it becomes very hard to control. Does anyone have any experience with one of these? http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...UXf5YN_qhpgzzg
I wonder if this would help keep the truck straight under hard acceleration?
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...-PQqJVvV1f0vtw

I think a regular Gyro would be cheaper and do the same thing...

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...ng-to-the-left

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...-1-gyro-config

Thank for the reply Neil,
too late though I already orded the D-box. Do you have any thoughts on the torque steer issue? I never had this problem with the original truck.

Torque steer
 

Torque steer is a pretty common problem for 1:1 vehicles, especially in dragsters with huge power plants installed. Sorry I am not too familiar with your setup, but if you have an overkill of power in it than you will have to suffer some of this, and find ways to compensate for it. Using a GYRO can help greatly, which is what this "D" box looks like it is. Only with a fancy name added for extra hype. The main problem would seem to be in one of your diff's meaning that you may have to play with the lubricants in your diffs in order to offset the torque twisting your rig to one side or the other. If you have 4 wheel drive try disconnecting the front driveshaft and let it freewheel and see what kind of effect it has on this issue. It might even be that the front and rear diffs are not equal and they could be fighting each other. You have an issue that there could be an easy fix for, but first you have to determine exactly whats causing the problem. Process of elimination seems to be your best friend at this point.

Thanks Jerry,
great advice, I will give that a try.

If you get a hard pull it is could be a couple things. A nice tight servo saver would be the first place to look, along with the attached servo horn and linkages. Excessive play in the linkages could also contribute to this effect. Likewise, the linkages should be properly adjusted - left and right side should be attached in the same positions on either side and be the same length, for example. A common thing to do with Maxx trucks used to be putting the steering linkage on the top of the steering knuckle/pivot block rather than the bottom, which results in massive bump-steer. Diff setup can also contribute - if you have too heavy a diff oil or a locked diff, this will not allow the left and right side to spin at different rpms, which is progressively more important under power or at high speed, as no two RC tires are likely to be EXACTLY the same diameter and therefore must spin at slightly different rpms to drive straight. Usually the "pull" is caused by a loose or improperly adjusted linkage or steering component, though. :)

Thanks Mike,
I may have to play around with the steering linkage, and or the diff oil. I appreciate you taking the time to shed some knowledge on the subject. I did get to drive the truck with the HPI D-Box installed, and it is a whole lot better. the truck does not get out of control when I let off on the throttle like it did. I still have counter steer a little under 3/4 throttle, but overall it's way more controllable. Thanks to everyone who chimed in on this subject,
Mike.

The D-Box is only masking the problem, Mike - while it makes a huge difference, you really should find and eliminate the root cause - then reinstall the D-box. With such a sweet truck, it is well worth the trouble to make it perfect, too. :)

Mike, you are right. I am going to find out the cause of the problem. I too am a perfectionist, and I love to tinker around on these cars and trucks. I realize that the D-Box is just a band-aid and to me it is not a real solution. I think that I will start with the diff's. I have 7k in the front, 5k in the rear, and 300k in the slipper. I should mention that I have 4 wave springs on the slipper, and it is locked for now. I need to let it slip some. I just wanted it to throw the front wheels up in the air at will, but I think that it is contributing to the problem. Do you think I should try a lighter diff oil in the center. 100k ??????
Mike.

Even 50K in the center will allow wheelies at will, Mike - I can wheelie my truggy with 10K from a standing start on grass. 50k will allow some give while feeling largely like a locked diff. 300K is totally defeating the center diff - I don't think this is the root cause of the problem, though. The servo saver would be a primary candidate, along with linkages and bearings. A plastic rod end could be cracked but not broken, for instance - you wouldn't see the problem, but it would pull away/flex under stress when in use. A stuck bearing could also create the pull - there should be signs of this if it is the case(scars on the shaft it rides on, for instance). If you are using 1/8 diffs with diff outdrives, it could be as simple as a loose set screw on one of the drive cups(would send power to only one wheel and eventually diff out to the wheel not receiving power). The truck should accelerate nice and straight without the D-box.