Battery fitting question?
 

So here is a picture of my new battery :yipi: installed in the FLM savage.

http://lh4.google.com.au/MTBikerTim/...G_1152.JPG.jpg

My question is, are those delrin stops going to be enough to hold the battery? This truck is going to get beaten and I am just wondering if those stops are going to damage the battery in a big hit. The battery is in there fairly tight so I think it might be OK but I don't want to wreck an expensive battery.

So no one has an opinion?

Well, to let you know, on my savage after a nose down landing at the track I proceeded to put a nice dent in my 4s 8Ah TrueRc lipo from the small delrin stop in the front. I have since put a piece of angle aluminum the width of the battery where the front battery stop is to distribute the shock of nose down landings across the front of the battery(instead of focused on one small point). I also put some foam on the front of the battery to help with crashes. I just hope I didn't ruin my battery(but it is a perfect reason to move up to 5 or 6s!):mdr:

Hope this helps!

Bye:smile:

That's exactly what I wanted to hear (experience). Thanks cemetry gates. I might see if I can get some bigger stops made up then. I hope it hasn't damaged your battery.

I have the same concern with my savage flm conversion. I plan to make a partial tray out of delrin to protect the ends and open side, and keep the pack in place. I will also use some velcro straps to hold the battery in the box.

I had a good look at the spacers and decided not to use them. They look ok, but I do not trust that they will keep the battery off the spur gear.

Thanks Linc. I have a friend with access to a machine shop and i'll have to see if he can grab me a few small off cuts that I can use to make bigger stops.

If you wanted to do it a cheap way. Buy a sheet of lexan like this:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGW3&P=7

and then use a hair dryer and scissors to mold it around your battery. They you can wrap the whole battery in lexan, and protect it from a lot of stuff.

I like this idea. Is the 1.5mm 0.06" stuff going to be thick enough to protect the battery from impacts? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGGW4&P=7

This is what I will do with the sheet kydex (said delrin, meant kydex!). I will make a 4 sided box, and use the left side chassis rail as the 5th side (6th side is the open top). That will maximize the battery area, as it is a bit narrow, but still leep the pack safe.

So the 1.5mm stuff should do the trick you think?

Sure, I would still use some verlcro straps to retain the battery, but the 1.5mm stuff should make a good tray.

Well I was just going to use the delrin stops with the battery like it is now but have the battery also encased in the lexan.

As soon as I get motivated to continue with the flm savage I will take some pics and make a tray.

I bought another used savage today, and may make a basher out of it, brushless of course!

I had the same concern, here is a pic of what I did. I have been the #@$#$ out of my truck with no problems with this setup.

What I did was take one of the left over chassis braces from my Savage X SS kit used it as a post. I attached it in the same slot that the little delrin post would attach. Then I took a piece of fiber board and cut out a piece that would fit between the side of the chassis and the motor. Drilled two holes to line up with the holes in the chassis brace and attached with 2 screws. It works perfectly. I've landed every way possible without the battery moving at all.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...0&d=1202597692

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1202597692

Sweet truck bashon. I think I have said this before.

Here is a picture of a lexan cover for my A123 cells in my savage.

I did this to prevent the A123 cells rubbing on the tape and exposing the ends, then shorting out on the FLM chassis. And it makes it a nice tight fit for the batteries, then I strap them down.

But you could cover you whole lipo and protect if from everything.

http://www.korgon.com/ryder/RC/savage/IMG_0009.JPG
http://www.korgon.com/ryder/RC/savage/IMG_0010.JPG

Thank you, I had been wanting build a savage for a long time, and when the FLM Kit came out I could wait no longer!

So I made the lexan cover today. I used 3mm cause that's what the local plastic place had. It took me all day to do this and I still couldn't cut straight. Even though I got a fairly tight fit it makes the battery huge. I might have gearing issues. I did originally make it 5 sided but it wouldn't fit so I cut part of the back off as you can see bellow. It's also now too tall for the top stopper so I'm going to have to use a velcro strap but the one that came with the kit is too short.
Here are the pics:

http://lh5.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SAnE...0/IMG_1195.JPGhttp://lh6.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SAnE...0/IMG_1198.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SAnF...0/IMG_1199.JPGhttp://lh5.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SAnF...0/IMG_1200.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SAnF...0/IMG_1206.JPG

I got my motor and I have gearing issues. 52t spur 18t pinion and they won't mesh. This is a problem. I am going to see what I can do with my dremel to make it fit. It should be easy enough to get the 52/18 to mesh properly but anything smaller might be a problem. Top speed on brians calculator on that gear ratio is:

Differential Ratio: 2.88888888
Transmission Ratio: 1.640953716690042
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 52
Pinion Tooth Count: 18
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 1516
Tire Diameter (inches): 6
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor coil Ω: 0.0138
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.89 : 1
Total Ratio: 13.69487 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 18.85 inches (478.78 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 33655.2 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 43.87 mph (70.46 km/h)
Effective Speed Rate: 1.98 mph/V (3.17 kmh/V)
Estimated Adjusted Speed: 41 mph (66 km/h) - 6% loss

I hope it doesn't run hot on that.

I managed to do a little bit of work with the dremel, thinned a few sections of my lexan case and managed to get the motor to mesh correctly with the spur and have the battery in the car which always helps. I'll post pics maybe on the weekwnd with the truck fully loaded as I want to get it all together and put it on the scales. Something tells me this theing isn't going to be a light weight.

Bending the thicker leaxan is difficult. I did not have much success. If you can find kydex it is much easier to work with, and when it cools it is much stronger.

I have a couple sheets of kydex, but i can't seem to get very sharp edges when i bend it? Then again, I did use a blow dryer to heat it up... would a blow torch work better? i was thinking it could melt the kydex from heating it up so much...

I used a heat gun and just bent it around a piece of wood. My corners are sharp on the inside as the wood I bent it around had a fairly sharp edge. I might have to try kydex next time linc. The plastic store seem really good and cheap too. They were happy to make things for me but it would take them time.