mechanical brake on front wheel only????
 

I've convert my Mugen mbx5T with the RCM motor mount, but i want to keep the mechanical brake.
But i can't keep the rear brake rotor and caliper because the motor hit it, because i must run a 15T pinion.
So what i want to do is to keep only the front mechanical brake, and put an heavy fluid in the center diff, maybe 100000wt or something like that.
I know i'll have lot more brake on front and very little on rear, but what do you think of my setup guys?

Thank you for your help!

David

ofna makes "diff lock" fluid which sets it up like posi, i'm pretty sure you can find it on fee bay under diff lock. In a nitro buggy the front wheels would always unload on me, with diff lock in it was wheelie city, so you should be okay

they sell it in different weights now, but here is the original thick stuff i was talking about

http://cgi.ebay.com/Ofna-Diff-Lock-L...QQcmdZViewItem
link not working copy and paste

OK thank you very much, but i don't want to completly loose de "diff effect".
I want to keep the diff action, but use the heavier fluid as posible to make the rear have little brake too.

Is the use of this diff lock can be harder on the diff gear?

you still have some diff action, it is a fluid, I burnt up a lot of rear diffs running no fluid, and haven't ruined one since using diff lock lube, and I go through about 5 gallons/2 motors a summer (sorry guys, I run nitro too!)

Depends on how you drive, but for me, front brake only makes a very strange, almost un-driveable, ride. If anything, you want to have rear brakes only, let's you swing that rear end around.

I made a round plat for my motor so there's space from the 2nd set of disc brakes.... about 3/16" thick...

good thinking aqwut, just use an RCM front cover for the neu and dremel off anything in the way

Couldn't you use a combination of front mechanical and electric motor brakes to get braking front and rear? You would also then have adjustable brake bias too. It would be a complex setup and possibly hard to get right but it would work wouldn't it.

The brake bias is not a trouble with a 3 chanel radio with a mixing function.
But if you brake with the motor on the spur gear, you brake front and rear at same time and at the same intensity, so if you go brake the front with mechanical with this, not sure about the result:eyes:

But i like the idea of the front Neu motor cover, this will psh back the motor, so with a dremel work, maybe the front cover will clear the rear caliper and disk:yes:
But the motor bolts should be longer, and longer = weaker:mdr:

stick the mechanical brakes man.. your spur and pinion will last longer, and less work for your ESC.. :)

Yes, that's what i think, i've order somes goodies from a main hobbies today and i've order the Racer Edge diff locking putty.
I'll put it on the center diff, and try to run only with the front brake.
Anyway, i'll not race with my Mugen, it's only for bashing and play on the campground this summer with my son.
If i've just a little brake, that's enough for me.
I'am a truck driver and i'am able to never touch the brake on a 200km forest road trip with a 140000lbs truck, so i'am sure that i'll able to drive a 9lbs r/c truck with only little brake on front:lol:

Could you get Mike to make you a dogbone and cup for the rear end? Get flat spots put on the cup, so the brake pads can be put on it like usual and put the cup on the rear diff pinion . Then take your plastic rear center diff mount that got replaced by the rcm motor mount and bolt that in front of the rear diff to hold the brake cam and linkages. Basically shift the rear brakes to the rear diff. Don't know hard it will be to do, I guess it will depend on your layout, but it could be worth looking at if the spacer thing doesn't end up how you'd like.
You could probably keep your rear cvd, but just flip it around and use one of Mike's 1/8th diff output shafts on the center diff.

Sound good, realy good idea!!

Thank you

I was looking for some parts for my thunder tiger st-1 truggy and found these cups that might work http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5328. I'd assume they would be the right size bore for the mugen, but not sure.
The brake discs should fit on them ok, because it sounds like the disks can be swapped between the thunder tiger and the mugen http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/11752

The problem i can see in your idea Patrick is the linlage. The servo use for the brake is put near the motor, and you have to route a linkage for the front brake and another one thrue the rear diff:oh:

Don't know how to place it.

But you seam to have somes realy good idea, i'am sure you'll find something:intello:

You'll have to find a fairly long linkage to go to the rear of the car I guess, but I'm sure it would be possibly to do. I don't really know exactly how you could set it up because I can't see where everything will sit (mainly the brake servo and esc), plus I haven't had much experience with manual brakes, so I don't know all the tricks for getting them to work well.
One thing that may cause a problem is how much room you have in between the rear diff input (where the brake will be) and the rear chassis brace. I don't think mine will have enough room for the brakes to fit without modifying the chassis brace, but the mugen looks to have a bit more room.

The hyper 9 has something like this, and I plan to do what you say on my jammin crt, as the kb45 will not fit with the rear brakes. The linkage can be straight, just has to be high enogh to clear the motor. Have a look at the hyper9 pics as they did it with a single linkage and it looks super easy to adjust.