blew my rear diff
 

wut do i get now should i get an Integy rear diff case?
and get stock diffs from traxxas or get something else??

Go figure. I did the same thing. I'm saving up for the UE diffs now. You can get a used set for around $150-175.

I think the ues are worth the money. the robinson racing gears are a little better. I like the aluminum cups with the 3mm screws with the robinson racing. The ues get my vote though. May cost a little more but you get what you pay for.

yeah but i cant order via online

I not sure what to tell you then. If you took the teeth off the pinion or spur. Go with the robisnson. If you start breaking up the diff gears the aluminum diff cup helps out some. Make them stronger. Especially when shimmed right. I had this in mine. I decided to go with ue. I don't regret that. Wish i could help you more.

my small screws and my diff cup got messed up
the screws holes in the diff cup jus vanished they are totally destroyed and the 4 small screws are striped and some are in half
all the gears inside the diff are fine

Whats Maximizer diffs' with Integy Casing/Braces like?

It sounds to me like you are limited to your product selction by what is available at your LHS. If this is becouse of dependence on family for your needs, perhaps you ought to sit down with them and show them the logic and availability of options online. Doing your homework / research and providing that as documentation may help. The logic being that if you must replace a RC component and lay out the cash you might as well get the component that is going to get you the greatest life expectancy and all but eliminate future needs.The ability to order online opens up the market in ways that will permit you to get the products that best satisfy your needs.

I have heard the definition of insanity is: to do the same old thing over and over again and expecting to get different results.

For Diff componenets here are my suggestions. The UE products are available through Monster Mike.

If you want to stick with stock Diff gears, try these cases

If you want the whole shabang try these.

To all concerned your selection of hardware IE..screws will make a huge fifference in life expectancy. Stick with class 12.9 steel Hex screws only and try to utilize Cap head screws everyplace that they will not cause binding. Button head screws next, and flat head only as necassary. For Suppliers of the highest strength kits try Tony's Screws Check out the kits or individual packs.
If you prefer to buy in bulk try Mc Masters Look on the right for Fastening and sealing, then socket head cap screws. Killer sight for all your hardware needs.:cool:


Everyone has an opinion and this is mine.

Here is too much information:

Class Features
Class 8.8 Made of medium-strength steel.
Class 10.9 Made of high-strength steel.
Class 12.9 Made of Class 12.9 steel for increased wear resistance.

Finish/Coating Features
Plain Good for general purpose applications.
Zinc-Plated Provides excellent corrosion resistance.
Cadmium-Plated Offers better rust resistance than zinc-plating, especially in salt environments.
Nickel-Chrome Plated Polished and buffed to a bright, mirror-like finish. Resists wear and corrosion.
Black-Oxide Offers mild rust resistance and some lubrication qualities.
Blue-Coated This highly visible blue coating makes it easier to distinguish from inch sizes.
Ultra Corrosion-Resistant Coated Also known as armor coat. Provides better corrosion resistance than zinc, cadmium, and hot-dipped galvanized plating. The thickness of the coating does not interfere with the thread fit.

Material Type Features
Plain Steel Good for general purpose applications.
18-8 Stainless Steel Provides excellent corrosion resistance. May be mildly magnetic.
300 Series Stainless Steel Meet more stringent specifications such as military specifications. Corrosion Resistant.
316 Stainless Steel Offers excellent corrosion resistance, even more than 18-8 stainless steel. Contains molybdenum which increases corrosion resistance to chlorides and phosphates.
Bumax 88 Stainless Steel 316L stainless steel with a high molybdenum content offering corrosion resistance similar to 316 stainless steel. May be mildly magnetic.
Brass Nonmagnetic and softer than stainless steel and mild steel.
Nylon 6/6 Nonconductive and resistant to chemicals and solvents (except mineral acids). Since nylon absorbs moisture from the environment, changes in moisture content will affect the fastener's dimensions and properties. Withstands a wide range of temperatures.
Silicon Bronze Made of 95-98% copper with a small amount of silicon for strength. Nonmagnetic and offers high thermal conductivity and corrosion resistance.
A286 Super Alloy Made of 26% nickel and 15% chrome with corrosion resistance similar to 18-8 stainless steel and strength properties comparable to alloy steel. Is considered an iron-based super alloy. Passivated (a nitric acid treatment that creates a passive film to protect against oxidation and corrosion).

For a better description and comparison of materials:
Mcmasters scroll all the way down on the right look for raw material then metals select the material that you want to compare and see for yourself. Aluminum vs. stainless vs. titanium vs. carbon steel. Hmmm...interesting ;)

If the money is a problem. Say no credit card or something. Get with mike. I sure he will work with you. Send him a money order or check and get him to send the part. I have did the same thing though. You sheer the 4 2mm screws off to the diff cup. The better alunium cup with 3 mm screw will fix this. I hope you get it straight. I hate to see a fella rcer down. I have been there. I went to the ue for the simple fact they are tougher and stronger. It really sucks you planning on bashing for a day and first five minutes you tear the rear out. Your day is shot.

ehh dunno how to money order
how does it work??
if i cant
should i start by buying Robinson Racing diff pinion and gear?

Go by the post office or bank. Give them money they give you money order. It cost a little but it works. Check with mike to make sure he will do this. He good fella so he should. I try to help you there shadow.

who makes alu diff cups?

flm that mike has and maximizer.

no other company makes em??

AWW
ok im cleaning my still usable gears
how do i remove litium grease??

I like to use a little brake kleen. It works wonders. Have to watch some painted things though.

brake clean or do you mean brake fluid?

brake clean. brake fluid don't do much. Little starting fluid will work to. I have used that. Just don't smoke around it.

smoking is for loosers
its their lungs

well i dipd the metal gears into brake fluid and see since i dont have brake clean or starting fluid around

My LHS has a cleaner that I used on my Diff gears, darned if I forget what it was called. It was like a putty or gum consistency, kinda gray in color, like an artist ereaser, worked great.

I dont know much about this Diff cup just another option. But it was on my list.

My local 7 Eleven sells money orders as well.

dad ordered me the FLM Diff cups
from Mike of course
=)
jus one set and ill wait till the front ones blow then order another

ahhh im impatient i checkd the mailbox 2day
no small box in mailbox grrr

Your order went out today(ordered Saturday, but holiday weekend-the Post Office was closed until today). Sit tight. They will be there soon!

YaaY!
havnt run my maxx for a week...
im shaking right now
I'm like addicted

Mineral spirits and an old toothbrush combo works good for cleaning grease off of parts too.

alrdy cleaned em
using toothbrush and hand soap

HAHAHAHAH
checkd mailbox as soon as i got home from school
and guess wut?
package!!!
grrr no time to put it together tho
5 essays to write and its only the 2nd week of school!!!!!

ok i jus tried to fit everything on the FLM diff cps i got
but the stock sipders wont fit
the shaft that pin that holds the 2 gears
do i have to modify?
the screws doesnt even go all the way
is this normal??

There should have been two shafts in the package for the spider gears. This is perfectly normal. If you could not find the included modified shafts, a dremel with a grinding wheel will get you up to speed in about 2 minutes. Simply round the edges of the stock spider cross pins before you insert them in the diff. The diff cups include the modofied pins now, so you should have them somewhere(unless they are thrown away already). Any ways, it is quite easy to modify yourself.

yeah thnx Mike alrdy modified the pin for the spider gears
but how about the
screws
they dont go all the way in
they jus stop half way

The 3mm screws that hold the diff cup to the ring gear? These should go all the way in. There may be some left over material in the threads, but you should be able to turn them in completely.

the shaving i alrdy took out but they still wont go all the way in

If nothing is in the threads. Is the screw to long? It shouldn't be but mix ups do happen. All four won't screw in or just one or two? Hope you get it fixed.

all four screws wont go in

but i fixed it
slowly i screwed them in
it worked out my right arm but hey i got it fixed
i guess the treads in the cup needed to be breaken in
now they work smooth

Glad you got it straigt.