Savage X SS FLM Brushless Conversion
 

Well I'm taking the plunge and converting to brushless (giving up on nitro).

Heres what my baby looked like right after I built the SS Kit with nitro engine.:angel:
http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/phot...19142_8566.jpg

http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/phot...19132_5117.jpg

At the moment she's in many pieces awaiting the arrival of my FLM forward tranny kit:whip:

FLM Install
 

The mailman left a present in my mailbox on friday :)

http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/phot...30038_9038.jpg

http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/phot...30039_3181.jpg

http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/phot...30040_5251.jpg

I spent quite a while getting the wires to look nice
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/phot...30041_7213.jpg

I used a hot glue gun to keep the wires attached to the bottom of the servo plate...the glue peels right off with a little force (sometimes it needs a little help from a hairdryer)
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/phot...30042_8413.jpg

What are these parts for? I cant figure them out.
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/phot...30043_9753.jpg

Am i supposed to use all three battery stops or is the third one extra? And are the big rings just larger versions of the small ones I put on the top battery holder?
http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/phot...30044_1322.jpg

http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/phot...30045_4563.jpg

Great idea w the glue and the pvc frame.:lol: Looks nice! Welcome to the forums:mdr:

nice. i cant wait tell i get mine.

These are the mounts for a mini servo if you want to have the option for keeping a reversing tranny. If you dont run a reversing tranny then they are spare parts.

Not sure on the battery stops. I used velcro straps and a full plate battery stop for the front of the battery. The little posts just didnt look like they could take the beating to me. The entire kit is awesome as a whole though.

yeah this kit is very good, even with the few minor errors such as the servo plate brace and the tranny holes not lining up. those are very small problems that were easy to fix, this kit is well worth its money

i found it kind of fun not having directions, it was fun to just play with it and figure out how it all goes together (although i did have to cheat a few times and check this site)

for the battery im going to make a hard "shell" for it out of plexiglass since ill be bashing with lipo so that should help disperse the force of the small battery stops

Make a good battery stop to use closest to the spur instead of the delrin stop. Killjoyken made one for his using two of the tabs to screw on the bottom skid plate. The two tabs were replaced with one of the cross braces from the stock kit and already had holes drilled lining up with the skid plate. Ken made me the same battery stop after we talked about this. Eight inch velcro loops work well to keep the battery pinned against the outside rail.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11741

More Parts!!
 

I got a shipment today...:yipi:

RC Monster Heatsink and Feigao 9xl
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/phot...20856_8747.jpg

MRC 989 and LBA 10 Balancer
http://photos-c.ak.facebook.com/phot...20858_8952.jpg

The Motor
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/phot...920859_856.jpg

Now all I need is a battery and an ESC :lol:

Would a 20 tooth pinion and a 49 tooth spur be good for general bashing?

Looking good. My only issue with my kit that I do not know how to fix is the flexing steering servo plate. That plate needs to be a little stronger.

so it flexes when you apply steering? what servo are you using it must be uber powerful to flex that plate

yeah it's the 5595tg but the servo saver weakens it or brings it to the same level as most servos I would think. Where the plate bends is between where the steering servo hole starts and the first screw that holds the servo. It may not end up being a problem though.

wow i wouldnt have expected that, it probably doesnt make too much of a difference, you could always try reinforcing the plate with some of those braces that are used to hold the stock engine plate on. just cut them to the proper length and drill some holes in them, and bolt them to the edges of the servo plate, it may help reduce flexing

No instructions pissed me off it was very anoying, and the mounting for the servo plate made absolutley no sense. There's the little aluminum cross brace which screws to the chassis side plates using the larger 4mm screws then the two holes in the middle of the brace which line up with the two steering posts are threaded for 3mm which clearly can't work...they have to be drilled out to allow the 4mm screws to drop through and screw right into the steering posts in order to brace the thing and to mount the servo plate. Now that that's done how does the genuis who designed this thing propose to brace the other end of the plate to keep the thing from flexing up and down (which I'm guessing was what mtbikertim was refering to). And the battery hold down is not gonna cut it...I will have to use a velcro strap of some sort. Other than those issues the kit is kick ass and is a good deal for the price.

the kit comes with a velcro strap, as for the lack of protection for the battery i made a case out of plexiglass for it. the servo mount is a little weird, the plate should be thick enough as to not flex though. but i suppose anything is possible with a big enough servo. ill update with pics of my battery thingy later:mdr:

Its the mounts for a mini servo for activating the reverse module if you want to use it.

More Updates
 

I got my battery so now all I need is my MM. Its supposed to arrive on Wednesday so hopefully I'll be up and running shortly. :yipi:

My TrueRC pack. It barely fits in the space alloted by the FLM kit.:diablo:
http://photos-f.ak.facebook.com/phot...55565_8075.jpg

I decided on a 20 tooth pinion with a 49 tooth spur to start.
http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/phot...55566_5064.jpg

Heres the plexiglass to stop the battery from pushing forward. Its JB Welded to the FLM battery stop.
http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/phot...55567_9826.jpg

Heres the rear.
http://photos-a.ak.facebook.com/phot...55568_4698.jpg

Plexiglass on the top too.
http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/phot...55569_9751.jpg

I put a groove in the Plexiglass to keep it from moving when I inevitably hit a mailbox.:whistle:
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/phot...055587_882.jpg

Now all I need is my mamba max and I'll be all set. :whip:

I stole your picture dpb318 to show this. The plate is thick enough and supported well enough that it doesn't flex except for these 2 little spots. I don't think it will be a problem though.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SIU0...30042_8413.jpg

I didn't have to drill out any of the holes in the cross braces either like coolrunnings. Coolrunnings you may have just been unlucky as I know there were some mixups with the cross braces in this kit.

Your plexiglass cover is so much neater then my lexan cover.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SAnF...0/IMG_1206.JPG
http://lh5.ggpht.com/MTBikerTim/SAnE...0/IMG_1195.JPG

thats good to hear about the servo plate flexing, hopefully itl be ok. your lexan cover is more protective than mine, mine isn't glued together as one piece and there isn't even a piece of lexan on the side with the motor as there isn't enough room

nice shocks btw

I have had to take to that case with a dremel to make it fit a bit better. As you say there really isn't much space on the motor side and I had to then the case to be able to mesh the motor properly.

i like that battery im gonna get one for my truggy, about 40 mins of runtime should be had i expect

what motor do you have? i was expecting more like 15-20 mins with a 9xl...not that id be complaining with 40, thatd be amazing:surprised:

I would say it will depend on what your gearing is as to how long it will last. What speed are you going for with your gearing. Mine is set to a little over 40mph and pulls big amps when it hits second.

im sorry mine is in a light truggy, geared for 40, 1515 1y not a very amp hungry motor imo, makes alot of torque without amps, this motor ran over that with 2X 2s 8000;s from true rc in my revo

i should make me a battery box like that for mine. What do you guys use to bend the lexan or plex glass? I know you just heat it up but what tool would be best for this you think?

Looking good BTW. I have a FP 5000mah 5s and a 1515 1y and i get over 30 min run times and that is hard driving.

according to the calculator i should be going about 30 mph, so maybe ill get more than 15 min, although my truck is a lot heavier than a buggy :lol: did i enter the stuff into the calculator correctly?:eyes:
http://photos-e.ak.facebook.com/phot...58476_4830.jpg


i used plexiglass for the battery cover and i didnt bend it. the sides aren't attached to each other :lol:

I bought a $3 fence paling from the hardware store, cut it up and used some clamps and a heat gun. I bent the lexan around the fence paling because the fence paling had nicely rounded edges. If you get the bend wrong you just heat it back up and re-bend it.

A heat gun puts off enough heat? sorry for hi-jacking the thread just really curious cause i want a box like that. :lol:

I'm talking about the heat guns that look like a hair dryer. They put out plenty of heat, too much if you aren't careful. If you heat it too much the lexan will bubble which you can see I have done on mine in a few places.

Oops
 

ok, so i finally got this truck completed, everything was perfect. i had all the wires tucked beautifully out of sight (it took forever) :yes: so i was on my first real bash and was doing some jumps, this thing flies pretty well :lol: but then i went off the jump and stayed on the throttle too long and flipped the truck over...it slammed down from about 10 feet high going around 25 mph...right onto its lid:gasp: i thought everything was ok until i tried to drive away and the battery was sitting on the ground :neutral: needless to say my plexiglass top didn't hold it in place lol. when i landed upside down it was so hard that the whole truck compressed and allowed the esc on the flm mount to get smashed up...which fried my ccbec and demagnetized my motor:surprised:

of course all this happened before i got pics of the completed truck and now its in 500 pieces again awaiting replacement parts...when i get it fixed ill take pics BEFORE i run it :mdr:

i need to come up with a roll bar for the esc...or just drive better:oh:

gah! u should have gotten pics....

Where can I find that calculator?


Nice Savvy btw! :yes:

http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed.html

be sure to put in a value for the "ballooning" factor as it makes a HUGE difference in top speed

or just strap the tires and forget about it :D

i did, i put a ring of duct tape on the insides and am running trinity three stage foams and still get a little ballooning, although thats bound to happen when a savage goes 50 mph lol

maybe thats why your 9xls die, trying to gear for 50 :lol:

im guessing thats why, i didnt do it on purpose lol...i didnt put anything in the calculator for ballooning so i thought i was only going like 35...though it did seem faster than 35 haha...i hope my problem is that im way overgeared...since thats easy to fix

After reading this maybe I will install my roll bar :lol:.

it cant hurt...

O it will. It's going to screw up my brakes I know it.