BL Torpedo Maxx project
 

Well I bought a Brushless XXX-4 and just couldn't believe the power and ease of running electrics. I was going to switch my MGT over to BL, but decided the weight of it wasn't worth doing. It was a heavy pig with all the FT and hopups on it. I have decided to do a BL E-maxx instead. After reading around on some of the forums I have come up with a list of what I wanted and started ordering up the parts.

I was going to go gorillamaxx, but decided I wanted something longer so that I can use the MGT bodies I already had and would be more stable with the BL. I am going to try and relocate the batteries to the underneath of the chassis.

Here is a list of what I have and what is currently on its way:

Bomp Proof Torpedo Chassis
Feigao 7XL with heatsink
BK Warrior 9920 Controller
ACNCM Aluminum Bulkheads
MIP CVD's
Titanium Hinge Pins
Titanium Turnbuckles
RPM Knuckles w/ Titanium Pillowballs
Maximizer Beadlocks w/ Losi Claw Tires
Novak XXTRA rx to go with my XS3
Proline Powerstroke Shocks
GP3300 7 Cell packs to be ran at 14cells
RPM Shock Towers
RPM A-Arms
Upgraded Tranny Gears
Aluminum Diff Cases w/ Maxximizer cups and RRP gears
RPM Bulkhead Braces
UE Gen. 4 steering setup

I will post pics as I put it together. Let me know if you guys see anything I need to add or if there are problems you guys have already come against with what I have listed. This is about my 15th project vehicle and can't wait to see the final product. I am still unsure of what gearing to run on this setup. I would like to throw some bowties on it and run it against my nitro buddies on the track.


eric@maxxbashers.com

Here ya go. Have a look at mine.
http://photobucket.com/albums/a184/nitrostarter/

Torpedo Chassis w/ bulkhead braces
BK18120 w/ PC fan and Feigao 9L
FLM Frt. Rr. Bulks
MIP CVD's all around. RcAlloys custom dogbone in center rear.
Stainless hingepins
Proline Suspension w/ Lunsford Turnbuckles
RPM Stablemaxx Titans w/ Bowties
Hitec aggressor 3-Ch radio
UE 6 Spyer diffs
Dace Wing MOunt Towers
GP3300's 7 cells
Rc Monster Idlers
UE SuperShocks (4)



Its a blast to run. Acceleration like crazy. I love my setup right now. But I'm undergeared. I'll be ordering some new gear soon. Should see faster top speeds.

AWWW!! DUDE!! u should of waited!!! u should have waited for that G-REvo!!!! The e-maxx will be the past once that conversion kit comes out!!

That will be project 16... LOL. I will probably sell this or probably trade for a buggy and start something else. Always happens.

nitrostarter, very nice setup. what gearing are you running on it now?

i would definately go with the Fastlane Front and Rear Hybrid Bulks

Right now I'm at 16/66. I should be at 18/66. However, I'm switching to a Strobe slipper assembly soon so I'll be gearing at 14 or 15/51.

Mike's getting me another body right now, hopefully I dont mess up the paint job so I can have something nice to show you guys.

I'll be putting a 1/8 scale wing on the back as soon as I can find some mounts. What do you guys think about those on trucks?

I have a gmaxx that is the same length as my monster gt. Is that what you want maxx basher.
As for reference I would not put the rpm knuckles on it. I would get a set aluminum knuckles.

This will explain.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...light=knuckles

yeah, I wanted a longer chassis. I didn't think the g-maxx was extended? do you have the ext. on there front and rear to get that length?

yep It extends the gmaxx 60 mm 30 mm front 30 mm rear. The batteries are mounted low to. The hardest thing I found to make was the front skid plate.



Here is the thread. It is a little long.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...5&pagenumber=1

Nitrostarter,

Wing's rock. They look awesome, protects the rear of the body in flip over's and help's to see which way the truck is going.

http://rcpics.rc-racingcars.com/dive...flamemaxx1.jpg


nbcaznmaster,

Your wrong there. Atleast for me. I'll never ever sell my baby, I like it allot and no other truck's gonna replace her.

yes, and as for the revo.

It doesn't has the nice stuff like UE at this moment...

So, there is a difference.

The g-maxx chassis can be extended in the rear to bring it to about 13.25" wheelbase with g-maxx parts. coolhand made the front extension himself.
I love the g-revo and all, but it will never replace my e-maxx either. Different trucks. The e-maxx is far more upgradeable as well.

I am glad to be known for something.

Same here, my Maxx is staying in my possession for as long as I can think.

MaxxBashers- Where are you getting that Torpedo chassis from? I didnt think BPP was still making them.

I got my torpedo chassis used. I looked all over and couldnt' find one and they weren't making them new anymore. Got lucky and found one fairly cheap.


coolhandcountry do you have pics of your truck up here somewhere?

I will get pics of mine up here soon.

I do. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/sho...15&pagenumber=1
search threw the thread. It has some on there. It shows it in the early stages. I have some of the skids to. I run the back gmaxx extension. The front was made. It takes the 100.5 ue dogbone just like the back. If you buy the back top extension plate will give you the exact length you need for front top. use it as a template. I beat a rear skid flat then trimmed it down for the front.


If you give me long enough. I can give you a weight on a monster gt. I putting a emaxx tranny on it.

I saw a used racebomb for $75 with the braces and all, I thought about picking that one up. But I decided G-Maxx would be my next choice.

That is a good price. I got my torpedo for $45 shipped so I couldn't pass it up. Will use it for now until I save up for the G-maxx and talk coolhandcountry into showing me how to extend it... LOL. I just like a longer truck. I have almost got this together and just figuring out all the wiring and placement. I need to order some g-maxx battery straps from Mike. That is the only thing the torpedo didn't come with is the battery holders.

Here are a couple pics of where I am at. I still have to install my rpm towers, new skids, run all the wiring and figure out what tooth pinion to order. My Warrior came with the heat shrink removed. Is electical tape ok to wrap it back with and is there anything I'm missing that you guys see?

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...s/IM002791.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...s/IM002790.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...s/IM002788.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...s/IM002789.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...s/IM002784.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...s/IM002793.jpg

Electrical tape should be fine to use, but make sure that the heatsink can breathe. I noticed that you have Tamiya connectors on your batteries! Those MUST go!

Use heatshrink. I wouldn't use tape since that will get loose after time and trap debry on the loose tape survice since it's still sticky. But if you do wrap it in heatshrink, make some space for the heatsink.

I have the deans plugs, just haven't swapped them over yet. I will try and find some heat shrink to use on it.

also, not sure if you know it but your black bec jumper is missing or not on there.

yeah, I did notice that... Can someone please explain to me what it is for? I have read on here several people asking about its location to add or remove the jumper, but can't find anywhere that tells me exactly what it is or what the difference is with it off or on. Also does anyone have a pic of their 9920 wired? I read the description Mike put up, but I'm a visual guy. I need to SEE it to understand it.

with the bec jumper off you will have to run a reciever pack or a ubec because when removed it disables the bec thus letting you use a external source to power the servos.

ok, that is what I wanted to do anyway. Now I just need a pic of one wired up. LOL

here ya go.....

Perfect, THANKS!!! Now I can wire this thing up and get it going.

MORE VOLTS :D

You can cram a few more cells on that chassis

see :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...g/emaxx002.jpg

cabking, what rims are those? are they aluminum?

yeah they are 3racing rims.
there not bad, I havn't managed to wreck them yet.
which is more than I can say for the proline plastic ones. :D

Well, I finally got this thing done enough to run. I finished up the last couple items on Friday night and spent the better part of Saturday running at the camp ground we were at. All I can say is WOW. It is definately everything I thought it was going to be. Its about the same size as a MGT and runs like a stadium truck. I couldn't believe the power this thing has. Extremely quick and nimble for how big it is. Handles better than any truck I have owned. Definately worth the money I have put into it. Here are some pics of how it ended up and it next to my BL XXX-4.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...4/IM002895.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...x/IM002890.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...x/IM002891.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a66...x/IM002892.jpg

Thats a nice truck, what diffs are you running, also, what runtime did you get? Thats an awesome looking machine :)

Thanks, I really like the way it came out to. I was a little nervous about half way into it. Was hoping it would be worth it in the end and it was. The diffs have Integy blue aluminum diff cases w/ collars. Front diff has Maximizer ultra diff set-up and rear has the Maximizer diff gears

Great looking truck Maxxbashers!

What are those blue square thingys between the controller and the motor? what plugs are they?

They are aluminum electrical splicers I got from the local hardware store. I couldn't find anyother connectors to use. What is the usual run time on these things? I am running matched GP3300 w/14 cells. My gearing is 20/70. Seems to be chewing through the batteries pretty quickly. Is it the connectors between the controller and the motor that I am loosing it at? I love this truck, but the run times are terrible. I don't expect it to be the same as nitro, but I do expect it to be worth the trouble of walking outside to run it. I am charging everything now and then going to time it to see exactly what run time I am getting, but it seems like its less than 5 minutes before it starts dying.

what kinda temps are you getting from the batteries, esc, and motor? i would definately get rid of those connectors. your gearing might also be part of the problem.

Nice truck!! how do you like the power of brushless compared to nitro?

what charger are you using for your batteries?

I just recharged it with a different charger and ran it again. My running temps were about 115 F on the controller and 100-120 F on the motor. Batteries were like at 80F. I ran it for 8 minutes strong and then I noticed my rear end wasn't getting power and it was in front wheel drive. A minute later it stopped all together. I stripped something out in the tranny. Will pull it apart tonight and see what I did. I noticed I have a little slop in my rear diff how it sits. I can move the case up and down a little. I will have to shim the brace. Other than that, it did last longer and ran strong through the whole time.

i would gear it up then. also, i think you blew your rear diff. not sure if you have ever torn into a e-maxx tranny but its a solid output shaft so if you stripped something in the tranny it would not move at all.