Best battery layout?
 

Which is best for low resistance and use:

http://www.serum.demon.nl/BL%20lightning%20PRO/29.JPG

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/ima...sts/gp3300.JPG

(Thanks for your image Serum).

Also, if it is like the Top image (Serums) how do you connect the cells inbetween?

2nd pic is better. Side x Side gives a lower resistance, not sure why, but I know it does.

Thanks, I prefer that anyway, fits in chassis better. :D

Nice layout either way. What truck is that?

i think its his hot bodies lightning pro he converted to brushless

Whoa - a LSP brushless convert? Who's is that...is there a "kit" version?

that would be serums. and no there isnt a conversion kit that i am aware of.

Actually, Serum's way is best. Because there aren't any nickel strips between the cells, the cells can actually be soldered end to end. This will give a lower resistance than side by side because there aren't any battery bars to add more resistance. A direct connection between electronics will always yield the lowest resistance.

EDIT:
The cells are soldered together using a "hammerhead" soldering iron tip. Here is one:
http://cheapbatterypacks.com/main.as...4635&pgid=misc (scroll down and look for "HAMMER")

if you want a Kit version of Lightning Pro
go with Hot Bodies Hellfire "kit"
practically the same but hella hotter

If you solder the batteries together end to end. How do you get them back apart?

Who said you can do that :)? Good question, though. This is the sort of thing that airplane guys do. They aren't much into side by side packs. They probably figure that they will run the battery pack into the ground before replacing it, and that they won't be changing around the configuration.

I think I stick with my side by side packs.

Or use Solderless Power Tubes:http://www.modelelectronicscorp.com/

If you wanted to do the stick configuration without soldering, you could use the Solderless Power Tubes from http://www.modelelectronicscorp.com/

I have both the 6-cell SPTs and the 8-cell SPTs and they work just great.


Edit: Gustav - you clicked "submit" as I was typing :)

Yeah i figured,you know what they say about great minds;)

Actually,i haven't tried mine yet,waiting on cells from Mike right now.They also have kits for gp2200s(not listed though).Mike's got stock of GP2200s so i got the cells from Mike and ordered the kits.

To me they seem like the ideal solution for brushless for NiMH.Keeps wires short as a stick pack,low resistance and easily rebuildable for experimenting with different cell counts.Just need to find some 2-56 threaded rod to cut to different lengths of pack.

Some ESC manufacturers specify end on end configuration anyway,maybe to help with interference,resistance and voltage spikes by keeping the wires short.

Do you guys have a picture of the "STP"s? Their site doesn't have a very good one, and this seems interesting.

You can see Starscream's in this thread:http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...=&threadid=441

Basically,the 2 end caps compress the cells together using some threaded rod and some spoke nipples.
They sell silver paste seperately which you brush on the cells to lower the resistance further.
Their race packs use the same end caps as the standard SPT kits/packs exept they use different contacts to make the pack slightly shorter for fitting in touring cars and such like.Same end cap though.I got the standard,i think its better unless you need it to be a few mm shorter.

Getting soldered inline packs from eachother is a pita, some people brake them loose, i had an idea to use a thin metal wire and use it as a saw, to cut them loose.. Tin is not the hardest material available, i'm sure it cuts like butter.

That HB lightning kit might be available some time i've got some plans cooking..