Motor mount construction
 

I'm in the process of converting my hyper 7 to brushless. I have threads about making motor mounts using angle aluminum. Today I bought a nice piece of aluminum from a local scrap dealer. I love places like that, but anyway I have a question about the aluminum.

The angled aluminum is slightly fatter in towards where the angle is and gets thinner towards the outer edge. So when I mount the motor it, the motor will will be mounted at a very very slight angle. More importantly the pinion will be closer to the spur on the motor side. Were talking about a very very small difference but, I guess my questions is that a big deal? Should I even worry about it?

how little? if its more and about a 1/32 or so i would just bent it a little.

Welcome to the forums, cartwheels!
If I am understanding you correctly, the motor is leaning a little vs. being perfectly parallel with the spur? Perhaps this is partly due to the weight of the motor? What motor is it? When you land a jump, this distance may become greater due to flex in the motor mount. It is hard to say without actually seeing it, but if the angle plate is thick enough, the flex should be minimal(if the plate isn't think enough, the issue will worsen under high stress as I just mentioned). You could also place a washer under the low side of the new motor mount, to bring it back to level.

It's been a long, long time since I've been in a geometry class. Can't even remember how to figure that one out!
I never thought about bending it. If there is a problem that is what I will do. You know the more I look at it the more I think it's not going to be a problem. I thought about shaving it down, but that would be very hard to do. I don't really have the tools for that. Thanks!

Good luck with it!

Thanks for the welcome. You've got a nice site.
I'm actually just getting ready to construct it. I just looked at it again and I realized that it was just excess material from when it was previously cut. So it is a non issue. The angle aluminum that I got is 1/4" so it shouldn' flex but hopfully it's not too thick either.

1/4" aluminum angle is definately pretty thick! On my 1/8 buggy, I have constructed a complete slipper clutch/motor mount assembly. I used 1/4 for the motor plate and frontal bearing support. With that angle, you will never have to worry about a bent motor mount.

You shouldn't have any trouble with 1/4" material. A little heavy, but it shouldn't flex at all.
Thanks for the site comment. I hope you stick around and enjoy the forums.

Welcome aboard there cartwheels. Do you have any pics there catwheels? I like to see what you got. Can't never see enought projects people do.

I'm in the parts gathering stage still right now. So as far as pictures go, its just a nitro burning hyper 7 and some raw parts. Not sure if there is much to see right now, but I'm going to go look. By the way, I'm "muck" from rc zone. Maybe I'll take some pixs of my rustler a project in motion, .

Hey muck! I am tcolesen over at RC Zone. I too would like to see some pics of your buggy.

Here is my Hyper 7. With a MBX diff in the foreground. My plan is Feigao 10L , MGM 160 and I be using 4s Lipos.

And my Rustler. Its about 3 years old. I have had to replace all the plastic in the last year or so due to brakage of some form or other. It's has a Feigao 8s, uf75 and I run on 2s or 3s. The rear end has some toe in and Mip cvd's. The toe in really makes a huge difference.

Here is another view of the rustler. the aluminum over the uf75 is for holding a fan. Notice how the rear of the body has rubbed off over time.

Welcome aboard, carthweel! Nice RCs, please share some pics of the finished buggy!

Should I use something thinner for my motor mount? I could get a piece of 3/16 angle aluminum I think it was from the scrap metal dealer.

It depends upon where you will be mounting the motor. If you plan on mounting the motor so that it will be just slightly above the lower chassis deck, then you can definitely use 3/16" aluminum.

I went ahead and bought another piece of aluminum it turned out to be 1/8". It looks like it will do the trick. I got an 1.5" cut out of both. The 1/4" stuff looks like it would be heavy and hard to dremel out. I think the 1/8" will be the way to go. I've learned that its almost impossible to get the right thing the first time!

1/8" should work, although in a nasty crash it does have a chance of bending. Just make sure to check it occasionally for any bending.

You can use a jigsaw tyo machine aluminum. I did use a jigsaw on 10mm thick aluminum, it works pretty well, it just takes some patience.

My advice is to use a motorbrace with the 10L, otherwise its likely the 1/8th aluminum will bent with jumps etc.

http://www.serum.demon.nl/NewBorn/8.JPG

Wow! That mount looks great. It's amazing what you can do. That does give me some ideas. Might be a good reason to buy a new jigsaw. Mine is like 30 years old. Barely works anymore. My dad bought it when I was about 10 Years old.

that's a real nice mount.. mine's cheap, and ugly.. but works great.. I use the 1/4" angle piece also... I just use the aluminum grinding disc, and grind two lines about 25mm apart, then drill out the middle piece for the motor...

Is that a plastic spur on the MBX diff and will the diff bolt straight in Cartwheels,
I have a hyper truggy conversion just begging for some amps but I cant find a plasic spur for the spider center.
I have had some bad experince with the metal spurs :o

Yes, it is a plastic spur, the Ofna 51t. I will have to do some modifications to make the diff fit in. My plan is to move the rear diff holder post thingy towards the rear to fit in the slightly longer MBX diff. Then I will use the shorter MBX dogbone. I don't know for sure if this will work. I'm just hopeful at this point. It may take me awhile but I will post my progress.

I made a motor mount over the weekend. I ended up using the 1/4 " stuff. It came out pretty good as far as function should go. It's far from perfect but should do the trick. I tried to trim out the unnecessary weight and leave enough for structural integrity.
Here is a picture.

I did test to make sure the motor would move. What I had to do was use a piece of steel with two holes as a tool to hold my dremel in the proper spot. I used a screw and nut in one end of the steel and went thru on the bottom hole in my mount and then used the top hole for the proper arc. Drilled three holes first using the steel tool as the guide. Then dremeled out the arcing slot. Only trouble I had was the nut I used on my screw should have been a nylon lock nut because it came loose and I ended up with a fat spot. I think you can see it in the picture.