Reciever Pack
 

I have a fairly new Revo and can only run it for about 15 to 20 minutes if that without the reciever pack going dead. I think it has a dead cell but am not sure. I have a big race comming up and need to resolve this issue. also, is it just me or is it common for it to just shut off without warning with it comes to a stop or close to it. its only after a little running. Is there some kind of thermal shutoff???:C:

How is the temp when it cuts off squee? Is it idled to low? I not sure what to tell you about the reciver pack. What do you charge it up with?

it seems to be about 270 usually. and i charge it with the stock charger. no big deal anymore cause i just ordered 2 maxamps 1400mah reciever packs...

the temperature was 270:eek:
I think that is a little hot. try riching it up some.

for a trx 2.5 thats about right. 250 is perfect but its a little sluggish. i think i have that covered to. i just bought a acncm head for it. they say it will run up to 50 degrees cooler which will let me lean it out a little. also, whats the best pipe for that motor? i just bought a rd logics top end pipe. is there one better?

The RDL pipe wakes the motor up a bit. The receiver pack probably needs a few cycles to come to life.

it seems to be getting worse. how would i cycle it? what about that acncm head?

I have that head on my T-maxx. I did some before and after tests when I first got it but didn't write them down. It did make a difference though. The size difference is huge!

Hey Squee. I assume when you say stock charger, you mean the charger that came with your Revo. If so, i gave up on using that charger because it would cut out anytime and eventually quit. what i currently use is a piranna digital peak charger from duratrax. If you got another charger that is adjustable, so long as it will charge at 1 amp or under, I suggest you try that. My settings are as follows. mah for 1100 set at 1200, for 1400 set at 1500. amps set at .9 amps. Peak detect set at 12mV/C. My packs have never let me down since i quit using the traxxas charger. don't forget you need a plug to match your pack. if you have a charger with spring loaded terminals you might be able to cut off the plug off your traxxas chargerand use it.

well right now all i have is a millinium with alligator clips on it. if i have to i can just pull the plug off the pack and clip the alligator clips on the little metal plugs correct?

Is that a novak? If so it will be ok, just don't charge at more than 1 amp

alright. i just bought a wasp .28 for it and a traxxas big block installation kit. what kinda performance should i expect? is it gonna be hard to tune like the trx 2.5? and will the rd logics pipe work with it?

I don't know much about bb's, excetp in a 1/8 scale they run like Mikes e-revo. I have enough trouble with my jato, but i think i finally got it to run like it should. Have you tried to charge that reciever pack yet

sure have. its charging right now. it shows 7.39 volts right now. its just that its been charging for 2550 seconds and only went up to 7.39 volts from 7.21

so how should that wasp .28 perform with the rd logics pipe?

If their very low mine take about an hour to charge so yours sound like they are charging normal. You are not going to see any high volts, remember it's a 5 cell 1100mah reciever pack not a 6 cell 3300mah pack. BTW what radio are you using?

airtronics cx2p caliber. whats giving you problems on your jato?

Man thats an old radio. Between my Revo and Jato i've burnt up 2 p/s in a year with less than a gallon each. After a month of research (Traxxas forums) I determined that my problem was either bad fuel line or a leak or the fuel(traxxas 20%). So i got a new p/s, replaced all fuel line, used rtv and sealed up the engine, got a new pipe/couplerfrom a friend and changed fuel to trinity 20%. I just ran it for the second time, since the changes sunday and it ran great, with no problems

thats good to here. and yea, that radio is my first. i've had it since i got started about 5 years ago. next radio is a spectrum dx-3. does ANYBODY have a clue as to how the wasp .28 will perform in a revo?

As i said i don't know much about big blocks, but everything i hear about the wasp motors are good. Do oyu have it already?

Any big block will push the Revo along in a hurry. I would guess a big block pipe would be best(if there is such a thing for the Revo) for the motor. You won't have any trouble with power, though, regardless of the pipe you use.

i should have the motor by tuesday. i have aactually been getting some really good deals on stuff of ebay. whats the best failsafe temp monitor?

Venum has a temp monitor with a failsafe built in, but if you are going to get a spectrum it already has them in the system. BTW, Did you're reciever pack charge properly?

yes actually, i charged it once with my millinium and it is still got juice after about 3 tanks. unfortunately i had just bought the maxamps reciever packs right before i charged it.

Never hurts to have a few.I have three.

is $100 a good buy for hardcore racing arms for a revo? also, does anybody happen to know if the mx-3 synthesized reciever will work in place of a crystal type?

I use a synthesised transmitter with regular recievers with crystals sometimes so i guess so.Is it a full set of arms for $100,if so i'd imagine that is cheap.

Are you gonna do new or old school break in on that new engine,i follow the new method now but it feels strange trying to get a brand new engine up to temp very quickly.A heat gun is the best,saves you starting it while it's tight.

could you explain the new and old school break-in? the only motor i have ever broken in was the trx 2.5 and they tell you step-by-step.

The old school method involves running rich for the first few tanks and gradually building up the temps.Thishttp://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php explains why the old method is bad and explains the method most people are using now which is heat cycling.(i've heard all sorts of wacky methods but these are the most common and heat cycling is best)

I used this method on my sirio and prefer it,although it can be hard to get it up to temp quickly without feeling like you're abusing the new engine.That's why a heat gun or hair dryer is good to heat the engine before you start it so it's not so tight to reduce the risk of a failure.

Always let it cool with the piston at the bottom(BDC).

Also,i think it's best to use the same fuel and plug during break in that you intend to run,the link says to use MC59 plug and 30% nitro but i use mc9 and o'donnel 25% race fuel and it runs like a champ.

I wasn't able to get the temps up at the short 2-3min intervals but i didn't worry about it,i kept heat cycling up to 1 gallon but at 1 tank intervals(actually i still let it cool at BDC),big LST tanks though,maybe 2 tanks for the Revo.Do the short intervals for the first few tanks though.