outrunner'd e-revo
 

I just ran my revo for about 10 minutes keeping an eye on the temps.
I am running the 2826-8 axi outrunner motor on 2x2s 5000mah 20c packs,and a mm.
The motor got up to 180,and there is some cogging if i hit the brakes to turn and then hit the throttle without stopping,but I can work the throttle with no issue's as long as i don't hit the brakes.is there anything i can do to fix this or is it par for the course running an outrunner on the mm?
as long as i didn't use the brakes,i could accelerate hard multiple times and top speed runs,the motor run about 130.
Is it common for the motor to heat up using the brakes?
here are a couple pics.
I have the motor geared 22/40.the esc and batt's temp 100-110 degrees

Looks like a really cool setup. Yes, using motor brakes = more heat. About the cogging, I'm not sure. I'd think you could tame it. Have you messed with the MM settings at all ? Perhaps try increasing the timing and start power. I think with higher pole count you will need the increase in timing. Not sure if start power will have any effect on your situation, but it could.

J>

My E maxx setup doesn't cog at all. I'm sure this is something in the settings or something.

Are you sure you have the latest edition of the firmware for the MM?

1.17 firmware
50% brake and reverse
0% punch control and drag brake
high start power and high timing(15)
1.5sec arming time 12v cutoff
that is how it is currently setup

22/40 gearing

You did go to the Castlelink software and click on the Software tab, and then choose "Update Firmware"? This sends the updated firmware to the controller. Just making sure with this step. It's very important.

You might try some punch control, but the most important thing you can do at this point in the setup, is broaden your neutral band for the controller.

Throttle Dead Band - change to Large

What is the little Red box I'm seeing in your setup?

Lojack for rc cars. Just in case it gets stolen... :yipi:

It is a personal transponder for racing!

And make sure that you check your gear mesh. Make sure it is not too tight at one spot on the spur. Do you have the fan upgrade on the 2826?

[QUOTE=lincpimp;192743]Lojack for rc cars. Just in case it gets stolen... :yipi:

QUOTE]

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

I do have the fan on the axi,I will change the throttle deadband.
Should I move the timing to the highest setting from high?
The gear mesh is good,I make sure to check it in multiple spots.I learned that lesson the hard way years ago:yes:

Thanks again for the help,
Kevin

I checked again,in the current firmware box,the castlelink says v1.17
I checked for updates,none newer than 1.17 that my castlelink can find.

Try highest timing and see if it helps.

Yes try highest.

Outrunners like alot of advance when it comes to timing.

I can't remember if I had mine set on high or highest, but it worked flawlessly.

What do you think of the performance from such a small motor?

lots of torque,had the neighbors freaking out.
no way to radar,but I would guess the top speed to be around 35 mph,is that what you were getting out of the axi in the emaxx?
I moved the throttle deadband(what exactly does it do?),and have the timing on the highest setting now.will try it this weekend at the track.

I am happy with the performance,does exactly what I wanted.more efficient setup with more topend.I think it will be real good on our track

The Throttle Deadband is how wide the Neutral setting is on the radio trigger.

Yes, top end was around 35mph. But this setup accelerates pretty hard!

You should be seeing increased runtimes over your previous setup. I was getting about 25 minutes of runtime on 5000mah 4S setup.

I did try this on 5S. It screams!, but heats up very quickly. 5S is too much to keep temps under control.

I definately see the increased torque.lift the wheels at will on the pavement.the acceleration is much improved,the truck seems to handle it very well.
I scrubbed the wing up pretty good on the road with the wheelies.
I was out for 10-12 min and the battery's combines had 14.5 volts still.
I was happy about that.

I got a chance to run this setup with a couple of buddies of mine.

One of my friends had a stock E maxx 3905.
The other had a T maxx 2.5.

This of course pretty much smoked the stock E maxx, but to my surprise it also outran the T maxx.

It took the T maxx pretty badly on acceleration, but would also outrun it on top end. At least for the first half of the pack.

During the last half of the pack, top end was a VERY close match. I could still out accelerate him though.

great,good stuff.
I'll get to race with the nitro's in the morning.
Can't wait to get some lap times,see how much better they are(if any)

Very nice, clean setup. Hope you get it all sorted out.

just ran it again,changing settings until I got the cogging gone.
It turns out the setup was forward/brake/reverse.
I chaged it to forward/proportional w/reverse and the cogging is gone,doesn't heat up any more with the brake either.:yipi:

Not sure how long it ran on the batt's,I changed the timing all around and played with brake percentages,and punch control just checking to see what these settings do.
I did not see a performance change in the timing,I have it set on low now(5),motor runs cooler and seems to make about the same power as the timing on highest.
I was playing with the punch control to try and get to accelerate hard with out the power wheelies,which are cool as h*** by the way,because on the clay all that translates to is wheel spin,I have it set on 40% and still pulls the wheels,but no where near as "violent"
so far I love it,I give many thanks to Sike for trying this motor and telling us about it.:party:

not sure how long the setup ran,but temps were 150 motor,120 batt's,110 esc.
do these seem to be inline and what they should be?
I also noticed after the throttle cut,I checked batt voltage in each pack.
one pack was 1 volt higher than the other,I didn't think it would do that wired in series.
Is this common or should I be worried?one batt was 6.6 and the other was 5.6 volts:neutral:

I never really played with the settings as much as you have. I'll have to go back and try the lower timing.

Thank you for your kind words. You're very welcome. I believe this to be one of the most reliable, effecient setups around. The E Revo drivetrain is built to stand up to it also. It should give you many hours of fun.

The temps are looking good. That's more like it! :yes:

What Brand, mah, and C rating Lipo's are you running?

I have been running 5000mah 20C Lipos and they hardly break a sweat at all with this setup.

It's not common for one to drop so much lower than the other. Do an individual cell voltage test through the balance lead and see what you come up with.

I would also bump up the lvc some. It's usually not a good idea to discharge lower than 3.0 volts per cell.

Are your Lipo's the same age, same amount of cycles ran?

batt's are the same age(about 5 cycles)
venom 2s 5000mah 20c(at least what they advertise)
I did check each individual cell,for each pack the batteries were the same voltage.
meaning one pack was 3.3volts per cell and the other pack was 2.8 volts per cell.
the cells are staying in balance pretty good.
I use an gp equinox with my ice to charge the batt's
I have the cell spy from common sense to check the voltage of each cell,I really it,lets me know what is going on with each cell without the risk of shorting the leads together using a volt meter:intello:
I am thinking about going with some tp or fp batteries,I can get a pretty good price on them at my work.
I'm thinking the venom's might not be as good as I would've thought

I just updated the lvc to 12.5 volts,I love the new technology.
I always hated setting the speed controllers up with the transmitter going through the menu it took forever

sorry for this hijack, but moving the throttle deadband from normal to high does what to help excatly? sorry i was just always confused on this

it seemed to "smooth" out the response at center stick,the truck was kinda jumpy until I changed the deadband.
hope I explained it well enough.
Thanks,
Kevin

hmmm well ill do it and see if that helps thanks

I just got in from racing at the local track today,truck was faster lap time wise by almost 1 sec.The truck was pulling everybody out of the turns pretty good too,even the truggies.
I kept an eye on the temps,seem to be inline with what i got running it at the house,until the main.
at the end of the 10 min main motor was 180-190,esc was 120-130,and the batt's were 110-120.not sure if I should go down 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion,or if it could be running hot because it may be under geared?
any insight?
Kevin

Other than temps, great results on the race performance. :yes:

I think the problem with temps is in the timing. Modelmotors recommends 24 degrees of timing advance for all AXI motors. Check this link out:
http://www.modelmotors.cz/index.php?page=113

I think perhaps your initial cooler temp reading was maybe for a short run? Longer runs seem to have the temp climbing into the uncomfortable zone.

You could drop a tooth or two and help temps I'm sure, but that's going to take away from your top end.

I have used this setup with no issues pack after pack. I usually run it as hard as I can all the way to the LVC.

I wonder if there are other means that can be built in to the Revo setup to promote motor cooling?

I will try with adding the timing back in it,it could run hot from too little timing i suppose.
I have seen references to that the motor may be under geared causing it to run hot maybe?
I have seen that in some instances that an overgeared motor may run cool but the esc and batt's run real hot,I am not sure what thread I saw it on,but I have seen it here.
the truck tops out real quick,our straightaway on the track is roughly 120ft,the truck sounds topped out at about half that,had a buddy tell me that he thought the truck was undergeared,was just afraid to try the 23,I didn't have any time today to play with any of the settings either.
I have started working on the chassis so I could fit 2 25c tp 4s 5000 packs on the truck in parallel,runtime seems to be about 20minutes on the 2 2s packs.
Hoping 2 4s packs would increase the runtime past 30min.The state races we have here in florida runs 30min a-mains.
I think I would do better doing the stop-n-go's for pit stops rather than changing packs mid race.It is turning out pretty good so far.
I have to get another tp pack though as I only have one at the moment

here is a pic of my progress so far,I have another chassis I can go back to

I tried a 25 tooth pinion with the 40 tooth spur. It cogged on startup and the temps were high. It had more top end, still topped out quickly, but runtimes were shorter. With the higher temps, I figured it wouldn't last.

If you add more battery capacity, along with that is some more added weight. I think I would try the same gearing first, since you're asking it to carry more and see what happens.

Here is a mod that I did to the E maxx. These fans help cool the slipper clutch area and also blow air on the other side of the motor plate.

Perhaps you could come up with something for the E Revo that would help things.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC06828.jpg

That looks pretty good,I will be removing one of the steering servo's to offset some of the weight.I'll be installing a ds1015 servo.
All in all the weight should be the same or little lighter when I'm done compared to stock setup with 7cell nimh packs,truck is a tank setup with nimh's

The outrunner's coils and armature don't make direct contact with the rotating can. What heat doesn't get swept away by the air flow, migrates to the motor plate.

I wonder if adding some thermal paste between the two motor plates, then focus on cooling the motor plate would help?

I think there's probably room, if some creativity were used. :yes:

I'm all about modifying.
If only you saw my old tnx pro that I was racing,I went and changed the tank to a mgt,I made my own sway bars for it,used the traxxas flywheel setup and used the revo slipper and spur gear because the stock gear was sooo weak:lol: anyway,

you talking about putting the heatsink compound between the motor and the motor plate?I will try that,I think I could pretty easily add some fans as you have on the maxx.
I have to wait and see where all the electronics go first

Yes, between the motor and the motor plate, but that motor plate then slide onto a post and mounts to another plate. There are several spots there that would benefit from the thermal paste.

I would add some to the post, then also where the two plates touch. Aluminum is such a heat sink.

The fans that I used are 25mm square. I power them with the CC BEC also. Remember it can carry like 10 amps. You could probably power a 100 of those small fans with one.

here are a couple pics of the lastest setup,2 4s 5000 in parallel.
hoping for 30 min runtime on the track,should be plenty seeing as how the 2
2s packs in series gave me between 15-20 min.
all up weight is less than stock e-revo with 2 8.4v 5000mah nimh batt's:party:

I raced at the rc pro series florida series race #2 today with the revo.
I qualified 2,less than 1 sec from tq.
during the 20 min a-main,for some unknown reason the batteries came unhooked 3 times:oops:
the first time it happened I was leading the race,after the 3rd time it happened,i was multiple laps down,but fought my way back to 2nd and that's where I finished.
I am very pleased with the truck and the axi motor.I finally have the motor temps under control now,20-40 is how it's geared after the 20 min main,that was real wet after the thunderstorm delayed the race the motor was 140,esc 100,batt's were ambiet temp:party:
That is with about 2-3 pounds of clay added to the truck:gasp:
I think I will try a 21 pinion,that may be where i end up gearing on a track that is not deep like the track today after the rain.

Congrats Kevin,

I would tighten up those Deans connectors for sure. You would have taken 1st if that hadn't happened. Bend the little spring thingie on the Deans with a pair of needle nose pliers to tighten them up.

I never tried 20/40 gearing. Sounds like it works pretty good.

How much runtime are you getting on the new batteries? 4S2P 5000mah 20C right?

yep,I ran it pretty hard on the track for 20 min,when I came off the track,one batt had unplugged,not sure how long I was running on just the one batt.
but I checked voltage in both packs.
one pack(the unplugged one) was 3.9 volts each cell
the still plugged in pack was 3.5 volts each cell
Still had more runtime in it,surprised me because of the extra load on the system with the wet track and the added weight.
I think the chassis is flexing,pulling the connectors.That is the only explanation I can come up with.
The deans are still hard to unplug,it unplugged after landing off of a big double jump 2 of the 3 times.

stepping down the pinion gears helped alot more than I would have thought.batt temps come way down,motor dropped 30 degrees or so,speed control dropped about 20 degrees.Runtime went way up,after the 5 min qualifiers on 22/40 I used 1500-1600 mah each pack, that would have me running 12-15 min per charge,which is what I was getting.
I ran 20 min in high load situation with lots of battery left I think

The response from the other racers was astounding!
Everyone seemed to really like it,had 2 guys asking me about the truck in detail where they want to do the same to their truck

Very small zipties can be used to hold the deans plugs together, although you have to heve a side cutter handy to unplug them...

Bending the tabs will help the plugs fit tighter, and a little slack in the wiring will help too.

I will be using zip ties now,I still cant believe they came unplugged as hard as they are to pull apart.