RCM CRT .5 Extended Chassis
 

Anyone here have one or used one. Any pros/cons. How much smaller will it be compared to Losi xxx-t's?

It is similar size to a 2wd electric truck, like a rustler or xxx-t. In fact, you can use most 10th electric bodies on this ext chassis.

Great! Are chassis hard to replace? I like how the rustler has it where you unscrew the three under the chassis and the two on the top deck and there's your front end.

Edit: Woa just looked at the price and I am not spending that kind of money sorry RCM.

Would the size be the same with this one:http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...oducts_id=1977

or this one: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/18750

Mike's kit is worth the dough. I have one and love it! The RCM kit is longer than both those chassis.(those are both still 1/12th scale, while the RCM kit is 1/10th scale.)

Bye:mdr:

Yeah the rcm chassis is the only one i have seen that is worth going with. The other ones you listed really do not offer much...

Anyone know where I can find a used one? I'll try ebay but anyone else?

Keep an eye out on here. Maybe put a wanted ad on rctech. I bought mine here used, but it was the whole truck. Still paid a bunch less than I would new...

rctech?

rctech.com

their for sale forum is big, and they have a wanted section...

Hi, instead of starting a new topic, I'll ask here (I don't think it will be a hijack will it? sorry if it is...)

Would it affect the RCM chassis rigidity or strength at all to cut another hole for the spur gear a bit more forward than what its got, so I can run the motor mount on the front diff carrier with the motor on the front left (where the fuel tank normally is)

I think this would be so much better for left/right balance, I would run a saddle pack type battery config at the back. I'm thinking 2 3s triangular A123 packs for 3s2p, or two 2s packs for 4s1p. I think the latter because its lighter, since now the F/R balance would be a little out.

I spent almost 3months looking on ebay - never saw an RCM CRT.5 there, there's been a few here, but they go quickly. I just got my RCM CRT.5 kit. Mike's made some changes to make side to side balance better by offsetting the drive train slightly and going to a batt tray to let you balance fwd and back weight distribution better.

The prob with a rtr based conversion is power - if you put a decent bl motor in one, you spend a lot of time walking over it to flip it over and put it back on its wheels.

Are these hard to convert the chassis? How long for a first timer?

No - As it uses the same front and rear It is just undo 15-20 screws and remount everything.

If you have a CRT.5 now it is about a 30 mins -> 1 hour conversion. You'd also want a thicker oil in the centre diff may be 10-20.

What would putting a thicker oil do? I don't want to really touch the diff because I have a tendancy to take something apart and not put it back together.

Read this - http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5050

Just take four screws out - let oil drain - add more oil and do up four screws - pretty straight forward

How hard is it to get it off the chassis? Also I will be running on a onread carpet high traction surface. But keep in mind there are going to be some pretty big jumps if that effects anything. Any reccomendations for high traction, and tight turning track? Also I am planning on running a 13.5 at most if not a 15.5(haven't decided which one I want to run in the mod class) so there isn't going to be major monster power.

Really hard - jk - 4 screw hold the centre diff to the chassis and then fours screws to take the diff apart. You will be fine...

You seem pretty new to RC, or at least the custom side of it. The center diff should come off with four screws form the bottom of the chassis. I really don't think that the RCM kit is hard to put together.

I would read, read, and read again the MANUAL FOR THE CRT.5 to familiarize yourself with the way it is put together. Just take your time and lay everything out neatly in the order you took it apart, so that it is easy to put back together.

Hope this helps!:mdr:

I am not a new commer to rc but rc customizing. I have been in rc for about five years but this is my first custom. I am sorry about all the questions. I have yet to recieve my .5 but once I do I will order the chassis and see who the diffs feel. I'm not sure what the old owner had in there but his fluids a shot.

Also are there any worth while up grades for this? What are the most commonly broken part. My lhs dosen't stock the parts for the .5 do i'll get a few spares stocked up.

Shocks are the main upgrade, I like the CNC hexes too

Revo shocks come with it. What have you guys broken most often?

few arms, couple of hubs, 1 x bumper, 1 x wing mount, 4 x pins, 4 x servo savers (lots until i changed the mounting point)

So I should change the mounting point of the servo saver? I'm prob. not going to run a wing. By pins do you mean hing pins?

Sorry hinge pins - They hold the arms on.

Yes move the steering turnbuckle to the inner hole on the servo saver...

You will need a wing...

Yes I know what hinge pins are. I'm not running a wing because i'll be racing indoors and they said I need to take everthing off of it that is visable from the outside that differs from a xxx-t or a t4. Once I get the car i'll take a look at the servo saver to try to see what your talking about.

The crt.5 is a lot heavier than a 1/10th buggy or truck, especially after it's been converted to electric. I run a Novak 6.5 in my e-crt.5 and it is faster than a 13.5 in a 1/10 buggy, but about the same speed as a 10.5 in a 1/10 wheeler. It has a bit more back straight speed than a 10.5 wheeler, but the wheeler will have more pop out of corners to clear jumps. For instance I have a Kyosho ZX5 SP with a 7.5 that will over jump the big triple at my track, but the 6.5 e-crt.5 can not even clear the triple. Unless your track is really small a 13.5 e-crt.5 will be a lot slower than anything else on the track.

It is pretty technical. I'll need more off the line speed than straight away speed. By the way am looking for one used so if anyone has one let me know. Any ideas on how to lighten it up?

Would it be heavier than a rustler?

If you want to keep it light:
1. Use stock chassis and body
2. Use a light battery tray like a couple of velcro straps or two posts and a top bar.
3. I use the Maxamp 4200 2S battery and would go any bigger than that.
4. Stay with the buggy sized wheels
5. Use a Mamba Max & 4600 motor combo or Fiegao "S" can. Light, cheap, and more powerful than the 13.5.

I don't know how it compares in weight to the rusty, but the crt.5 is 4wd and has 3 diffs. That makes a lot more drag than a rusty and thus takes a lot more power to get it moving.

Any suggestion on making it lighter?

I'd say it is heavier than a rustler. Converted .5's can range between 4.5-5lbs. Also, if it is a technical track, you might want to stick to a stock chassis because the shorter wheelbase will give you a tighter turning radius.

That sounds good an will save me some major money. Have you broken any parts excessively?

2 rear arms, wing mount, some body posts, and oh yeah 6 servo savers. I was able to mod part of an old ofna ultra buggy(1/8) servo saver that has stopped my breaking problem. I'm also running 2 servo savers(one on the servo and stock).

If I throw a metal geared servo in there would it be ok to run with out a servo saver?

nope, the servo saver is part of the steering bellcrank. I guess you could mod it to have no spring there or something, but I wouldn't recommend it. the new kits come with a new spring which I'm guessing is to address the servo saver thing. I run a hobbivo CS160 in mine though with the old hard spring and a alloy horn and have never had a problem with it. It's probably one of the toughest cars I've driven, but once I lost radio signal and it slammed near full speed head on into the face of a gutter.

I bent front right lower hinge pin, broke front right lower arm, and bent front right turnbuckle and motor mount(? weird - it wasnt really part of the impact. I think the L can feigao is too heavy for that little car though).

and as for how difficult it is etc, you mentioned earlier that youve been into rc for 5 years. Well the chassis isn't really customising anything, its already built for you, and is a bolt on replacement. IT's exactly the same as replacing a normal chassis - easy as. Same with changing diff oil, I run 7k in the centre which seems really good, id prefer 10k though but it's pretty good how it is. Lighter diff oil will give you better turning on your high traction carpet, but be careful the front wheels will unload easily. Even with 7k, on the road with anacondas mine will wheelstand before the diff unloads, so 7k should be more than enough weight.

Ok, I'll get some lunsford hingpins,get a few sets of a arms, if the turnbuckle bends i'll bend it back with my vice, and i'll order another motor mount(can't be too safe). I'll also add to my list some 10k and some 7k diff oil to tune around with at the track. Thanks that helps alot. BL crt .5's seem common around here. I might be the first one to run a vxl motor (with MM)in it though.

Nah seen the vxl motor in em a few times :P

And don't hold too much hope for the ti pins. in my experience titanium bits are great for weight reduction - lighter than steel but stronger than aluminium, but probably not as strong as steel. (depending on what grades of steel, al and ti were talking of course). Lunsford are your best bet though, let me know how they go.

The package should be here on wednesday so i'll give you an update then. Thanks for your help.