i got my v2 today, and it is dead
 

i'll post more tomorrow (it's 3:39am), but i got my v2 in the mail, and it too died during calibration just like the 1st.

why did i sell my entire nitro collection again?

Oh man, sorry to hear that...

o boy, castle aint gonna be happy!

mamba max all the way !!

running 5s on a 1515 1y , with no mods or issues at all(just a 25mm fan) , temps are awesome (50C esc and 50-60 C motor), if the esc dies , they are cheap and plentiful to replace . unles you want to run 6S im sticking with the mamba max for now

( i have 2 MMM on order , but by the way the MM is going i probly wont require them )

sorry to hear of the lost , yet another MMM RIP

Now I regret for selling my two MM..... I thought MMM V2 issue had been ironed out...

Sad to hear this...just hope CC will comment on this V2 failures....

I´m sure they will... Still glad to hear of those v2 MMM that are running fine, but wan´t to hear more about them, my v1 is running fine but I think I´m waiting for it to fail some day and this does not help to get rid of that fear...

get it sent back to CC ASAP. The sooner they can see the problem the better. Hoping its just a fluke at this point but given the prior history....

The second dead v2 already? I'm canceling the two of mine right now.

:cry:That sucks, especially having waited so long and taken so much flak on your shipping thread to actually receive it and get your hopes up only for it to fail is a bummer. Is it definetely dead, presumably all your connections etc. are o.k. and you've tried disconnecting everything and starting again?:cry:

sorry for dead V2 MMM....
Hope CC hurry up to solve dead V2 MMM soon

try with an external BEC or RX pack ? make sure you disconnect the red wire first ;).

J.

so here's the scoop..............
 

I started the thread about well, you know what. ok, done. then I come home from work yesterday, and in the mail is a package for me. then I look at the address, IT'S FROM CC!!!!! :yipi: :yipi: :yipi: :yipi: :yipi:

So I bolt in the house like a loser and open it up, excited as hell! Later that night, I bust out the soldering iron, and get busy. around 3 am my batteries are all charged, and it's time to connect and calibrate. but, same issue as last time: can't get this thing to calibrate w/ my spektrum. I even bumped the arming time all the way up to 5 seconds this time! So I try it over and over again, maybe 7 or 8 times, then, I hear what sounds like a popped fuse, and it's game over.

I've checked my connections MANY times, but there aren't many, and this isn't rocket science. I've tried to go back and get it to work, but it's dead as a doornail, just like last time. I'll call CC tomorrow to see what we can do, but the deadline for them will be 8/15. If I can't get a working MMM by then, and I really do want THAT, then it's off to mgm I go, to spend a lot of extra money on a controller that I hope will work. If not, then i guess I need to go back to nitro.

I can say with total certainty that this hurt even more the second time around. Perhaps someday I can get through the calibration process with the MMM.

did you have your radio set up before you tried to bind them?

i am wondering if the throttle end point on spektrum , which is 125% is messing up these MMM on start up, although i dont think everyone that had one fail during setup is using spektrum

If you popped two during calibration, I wonder if it's truly the MM at fault here? I know that doesn't make sense, but just saying.

Still on the gas and kicking a** with my V1.

Sleeb

I'm wondering if you unplugged and replugged the battery a lot during this process?

I killed an LRP esc once because of a connector that was difficult to get plugged in. Once it took several trys to get it plugged in (caps charge and spark every time) and that's all it took to smoke it.

just a thought....

When exactly did this "pop" happen? When batts plugged in, switch turned on? During the calibration???

That's what I was thinking, something else must be wrong here?

I was thinking that also. I'm not real familar with the internal workings of a computer, but I wonder if it is possible for a usb to put out more than 5v and damage the ESC.

Bummer
 

First of all: sorry for your loss, man. That really bites.
Dude, I've got 2 of these things on order and now I'm starting to feel like a sucker for not heeding all the signs.
Time to email castle a letter of concern...:oh:

Couple questions just to be clear:

-Was this an E-Maxx that has already been run with another system in it, so the radio was already set up?

-Had you tried setting up the ESC via the USB to a PC before hooking it up?

I've got a spektrum, so I'm understandably curious, I guess you could say.

I just got back from running my V2 for 25+ minutes almost 4 hours total on it, Today I switched from the 9xl to a 1515 1Y, 5s Neu 30c 5ah, Gmaxx 65/24, nothing but creamy smooth acceleration and amazingly low temps. Dont fear the V2 most are running like champs !

Ah, that's great to hear. Guess I'll just cross my fingers n hope fer the best whenever I get it.
Torture that sucker jayjay. :)

Open it up and post some pics to see if it has the padding on the case etc that CC improved.Maybe a wire is pinched.Just a thought.

I feel your pain..i was the guy who had the 1st v2 go up in smoke!

I'll still buy one when they become available. If if goes on me, I too will be sticking with MGM from now on.

I thought I read in another thread here that they were going to test all of the MMM before shipping them..?? Wouldn't that include calibration? If so, then I hate to say it but it probably was the Spektrum that killed it. I have no idea how that is possible.

here's my system:

losi muggy
tekno neu 1515 1y
MMM V2
6S hyperion 4800
spektrum 3 channel radio
spektrum pro rx
futaba digital steering servo
deans connectors

i didn't plug and unplug a lot. BUT, every time i did, i had the appropriate resistor in series to charge the caps slowly - I soldered one up with deans on both ends for a nice finish! I used to install car stereos, so I know to charge caps! ;) Also, the controller was completely set up with castle link before it was put in the truck. I also read the instructions a few times before I did anything. And as I said earlier, I even upped the arming time on the MMM to 5 seconds to account for the spektrum delay. The radio and rx were already bound of course, and I am not new to spektrum - I've been using this remote for a couple of years. all settings were set to zero on the remote, except throttle endpoint, which was at 115%. the mystery pop happened during calibration - batts were plugged in and switch on.

basically, I feel i've crossed all my t's, and dotted all my i's, and i'm still scratching my head. again. I do feel however, that there is an uncanny similarity to the MMM v1 here, and I wonder if it's me and/or my system, but as I said, I'm completely lost at this point. I would love to open it up, but NOT b4 I call CC tomorrow.

here we go again.

Have you run this set up with another controller?

nope, this is my 1st real BL setup (besides my micro T). just a few months ago, I was asking questions on these forums nonstop! I sold off all my nitro stuff to do this, so that's the other reason I've been so pissed lately - i don't have any nitro, I don't have any electric; I have nothing since march basically!!

however, I don't get it though, I mean CC themselves even told me this would be a killer setup! I consulted with them before I even bought ANY of this stuff!

this is weird...........
 

i just tried to plug in my MMM to castle link in an act of desperation, and I while nothing happened, the castle link board got very hot. Hmmmmm :neutral:

Your castle link may be powering the esc with too much voltage, possibly killing the internal bec... Did you send the included castle link back with the v1? Or did you keep it and they just sent you a new esc, without the castle link...

I would send the castle link back with the esc, and have them test it. It must have some sort of pass thru, as most usbs output 5v...

That's what would happen with my V1 escs after they died. It almost sounds as if they have accidentally shipped you a V1.

I don't think we would have accidentally shipped a V1, we were very careful to pull all V1 circuit boards out of production to prevent something like that...

We need to get the Castle Link and the MMM back -- so we can see 'em here and figure out what went wrong. Most likely a bad component (infant failure)

Thanx!

Patrick

Dude -- TAKE OUT THE RESISTOR. I just can't stress that enough... TAKE OUT THE RESISTOR. This isn't a car stereo, it's a motor control. When the beep happens (power-up beep) with a resistor in series with the power supply BAD THINGS HAPPEN.

If a resistor was important, (or even desirable) we would either include it, or recommend it.

Give me a call on Monday (ask for me specifically -- I get into work at about 10am on Mondays.) Tell Christy that I asked you on this forum to call for me specifically. I'll make sure we get a MMM out to you. Just take out the resistor -- OK?

And don't all you people call me on Monday. :whip: :slap:

Why do you have the throttle endpoint at 115%?

The only way my Spektrum radios calibrate properly with any of my CC ESCs is if the throttle endpoint is at 100%.

I don't know if that could be related to the failure, but it could explain your calibration issue.

Good luck tomorrow with your call. I hope you're able to figure it out and get up and running quickly.

Haha you should have said this via thread :lol: expect calls later on

OT:
Patrick in your opinion if I buy directly from CC today do you think your shipping guys can process it this week? I plan to cancel my BO from Tower and get it from you directly

Thanks and sorry for the hijack

Well, probably not. I don't think that all 2000 will be complete by the end of this week (although it will be close.) But if you place the order on Monday, you go TO THE BOTTOM OF THE LIST. Seriously, we ship orders out in the order we receive them. That's how our software works. Same for repairs, they get shipped out in the order that they are entered into the computer.

So, you will probably add some time to your wait by canceling the order with Tower and replacing it with an order from us...

Thanks anyway...

Hope you can isolate the V2 failures...

If the resistor is in line only when the esc is switched off is that going to do damage? So you remove the resistor replug the batteries in and then switch the esc on. I haven't tried this but was thinking about it but I won't now. I can see why it would cause problems if the esc was initialising with the resistor in the way (now that i think about it) but not sure why it would with the esc turned off. I don't know how the MMM works and what the switch is switching so I have no clue really.

If the resistor is inline ONLY when the ESC is switched off, then no, it won't cause a problem.

It will cause some huge voltage spikes (and possibly damage the ESC) if the resistor is inline during initialization...

BUT, to be safe, just don't do it. :yes: Just say no to the inline resistor. :no:

Risk of accidentally having the esc on when plugging the battery in would be too high. I was just curious. I noticed too that when I plugged my MMMv1 in for the first time ever there were huge sparks which made me jump but after that, even the next day there were none so I'm not too worried. They must discharge eventually but sparks aren't going to be a problem most of the time anyway.

Thanks for the reply too.

So just to confirm, this is a bad idea?

I've ruined a few deans with sparking on HV setups, with bullets you can do one at a time and be quick though, I can usually get it without a spark.. I was thinking of following Biran's calcs for a no spark resistor though...

Yeah, that's a bad idea. We don't recommend it.

The calculator also is WAY off for charge times -- you don't EVER need to charge a capacitor that slowly. A .1 ohm resistor (yes 1/10 ohm) is enough to keep the spark from happening.

The only thing that suffers from the spark is the connectors.