What's wrong here? Now with video!
 

After this little video (and a short one after it) all connectors are hot to the touch, the motor was very hot, and the esc was hot. All from like 10 seconds. When I take the motor off the spur, it spins fine.

I had something like this happen before, it turned out to be bad solder on the bullet. I checked the this time, one was loose so I soldered it better.


http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9...orissue001.jpg

sounds like cogging, try bumping up your start power

I'll try it right now, weird that it's been working for so long, then all of a sudden...

did you recently change gearing?

negative.. I tried medium, then high. It's amazing how quick it all heats up.

I have been changing pinons a lot, yes. But no pinions I haven't already tried. Set screw is tight if that's what your thinking.

that is probably why, making the motor turn the wheels further per rotation, more load


remember your testing wihtout any airflow over the esc:whistle:

did the problem clear up?

In that video the throttle was pinned.

no. it's been like this since 6pm. The motor did get blistering hot with the 20t pinion earlier today.

hmm check the windings of your motor

How do I do that? This motor has no screws to open it up.

Hard to see from the video but before the truck rolled forward was the spur rotating or just trying to rotate like going back and forth? If so you might want to check connection between motor and ESC it seems 1 phase is not working/connected properly.

I believe it's the motor. I hooked up my sidewinder and it did the same thing.

Any ideas of a next step? I feel the bullets are on there pretty good.

My GTP with neu/quark set up did the same thing. It was a bad connection where the wires attach to esc. I re-soldiered it and all is good.

Can you give a close up pic of the wiring - thx

If the motor got blistering hot it sounds like you may have demagged your rotor.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9...g/IMG_2523.jpg

Best I can do with this lense

Anyway to tell for sure?

Hard to say if there are cold solder from that picture. Either that or a failure on the rotor.. IMO

I know from experience that a blown motor will get VERY hot. I tried a CD in my Revo and it unloaded so much that the motor (10XL) spun relatively unloaded. Well, that's bad and it got very hot. Next time I ran it, it had a lot less power but got blisteringly hot. Mine never cogged though. Someone else used the rotor for a 7XL motor and it ran fine, so the rotor was fine. The coils just somewhat burned up. So I wonder if the problem is not the rotor, but one of the coils?

As others have said, it could be a cold solder joint, or just a toasted motor. I would try resoldering. Hopefully it's just that...

Does it all work fine when you take the pinion off so theres no load on the motor?

Yes bensf, actually it does.

thats really strange. same thing happened to my reedy 3 star in my tc3 last week and it would work fine if i pushed it (as if it was geared WAY high) then it was fine. motor was hotter than usual but the esc was quite hot... then i plugged it in again and it blew the caps and fets... grr... anyways castle wouldnt replace it under warranty (dodgy) anyway thats life.

If you have had the motor out lately, maybe the mounting screws are hitting a coil and grounding out a phase... had it happen to my 8XL. Try shorter screws.