Wiring
 

Well, I finally received my motor and esc. I am getting down to wiring it all up now and I am sure I will need some counsel. Mike I hope that you can source any bits I need?

FYI these are used. No lecture needed.:p
The Motor= lehner1940/6
The ESC=BK 9918

My first Questions:
I need to connect the ESC to the motor. What plugs do I need for these three connectors? What order ought they be plugged in?

The negative battery wire is worn, will shrink tape handle that?

I thought I attached a pic of the motor? Any ways here it is.

What is the little red plug under the positive wire?:C: ALso the red wire from the group of three had its pin remoned from the 3 pin connector. Why?

I can only help with question number 2. If the copper wire itself is undamaged you can use some heatshrink over it.

The strands of copper are intact. It had been covered with electrical tape. I took it off to investigate. Thanks!:)

these are the connectors you want for connecting controller wires to motor:

Jeti's Gold Plated Brushless Connectors

can be found here:

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/connectors.htm

justin

The red plug/jumper is the programming jumper mentioned in Mike's writeup on how to program the 9920 controller, you should read it. It's a sticky in the BL forum.

The red wire is removed from the 3 pin plug to disable the internal BEC. There is also a black jumper behind that red one that will do the same thing.

Mike has the 3.5mm gold connectors for motor/esc you need, and the order doesn't really matter as long as the motor is turning in the right direction. If the motor turns reverse direction, you just swap the two outside wires and then it should turn the right way.
Hope that makes some sense!
--JD

Thanks Standard
I have read the sticky on programming a few times. I am sure a few more times might help. Now that I have one in my hands.
So... if I peel back a bit of the shrink wrap, I will find the black Jumper, pluggy looking thingy?:L:
I was under the impression that the 3.5mm gold connectors were a wire to wire connector?


If you have not noticed I am a big fan of pictures. They speak a thousand words. :cool:

The 3.5mm connectors can be used for both. You just need the male ends sind the female is on the motor. The little black jumper looks like the red one just under the shrink wrap. A little bit of shrink wrap or tape will fix the wire damage to since the strans are still in tact.

Hi Papa!

The red is for programming, i attached the manual, you might find some helpfull use.

The motor you are using takes plugs, The motor can be used in different configurations. can't find the appropriate documentation at this moment. the wire can be covered with shrink, or can be replaced. (mike could do this, i pressume) covering it with shrink would work..

If I pinch on to the little plug looking things on the Motor, are you saying that they ought to pull out? Then solder wire?

No, those are the sockets.. (for the plugs, or are those the plugs?? can't you pull them out?)

I gave them a good tug with a needle nose plier, they are in there solid.

Okay, you need male plugs that fit in those then!

Hi!

Don't pull on those motor plugs to hard (they are indeed the sockets, check the pic Rene)

Just get some 3.5mm males for the motor. Or if you want to keep this motor and ESC together, you could solder the wires directly into the females on your motor.

Are these the correct ones?plugs

Yeah, i see! they are too deep and to thin to be the sockets to solder in! i see Daniel!

I do not trust my soldering skills enough to even think of direct soldering to the motor.:eek: Uhhh.... gentle tug:L:

Yeah, those plugs will work. Mike even wrote "for Lehner" in the caption.;)

btw, this is a really good motor you have there! Sorry for not remebering, but what truck will you put it in? How many volts?

Thanks
DAF

While I am at it, I have the rc monster heatsink motor clamp. Question
1: what size caphead screw do I need for mounting to the Gmaxx motor mount?
2: It looks like the clamp portion of the heatshrink mount will contact the back of the motor creating a potential for shorting, should I skip it? Or insulate it with something? If insulate , what?

SuperGmaxx, going with lipo, probably scorpion 2@2s2p., Gmaxx single speed, strobe slipper, UE VBST w/uediffs, gearing to be determined?

It is far from ready for inspection.:cool:

Looks good. This will be an awesome RC!

You can insulate the plugs with shrink tube. This will also keep the plugs in place.

A "L" heatsink should fit perfectly on your 1940, I thought.

As for size of bolts to mount it, just measure the mount, heatsink-base, and add 3mm for the motor. My bet is a 8 or 9mm screw would do. Or get a 10 mm and add a washer.



Edit: I just realized where you are worried about shortening! The back plate!
See, the Lehner has a secure endbell, not a glued one. You can simply loose this rear bar on the heatsink!

This is the heat shrink on the motor. I think That back brace contacts some "things" it should not? What do I do? Also the existing screws are too short.

DONT!!!!! use that heatsink!!!!!!!!

The setback arms have arrived, still need to be polished and fitted. These plus the chassis extension ought to work out SWEEEEET.:Love:

Alrighty then, nix that heatshrink.:W: What do you suggest?

I smell a burned controller allready..

Good thing I am here.:L: Ohhhh fearless leaders set me straight. Gotta get it right the first time.

You can use the heatsink. Just don't use this bar on the rear.
It can work as a heatsink too, no need to clamp a Lehner 19!

Shrinkwrap the plugs anyway. Still a good idea.

I thought that I could skip the bar on the back.:cool: If I remember it was designed for the feigos and not needed for all motors. Just saw your edit Dafni.;) shorting,shortening:L:

You say tomato, I say potato :L:

Sorry, me a foreigner

You all amaze me with your ability to speak multiple languages. I commend you. Although, I still giggle from time to time.:cool:

The lehners supposed to run cooler. Do you think you going to need the heat sink? I like the rc so far. I am curious to how the motor does.

I dunno? The heat sink can not hurt. As long as I do not screw it up.:W: But thats what you guys are for. Assembly by consensus.


Main Entry: con·sen·sus
Pronunciation: k&n-'sen(t)-s&s
Function: noun
Usage: often attributive
Etymology: Latin, from consentire
1 a : general agreement : UNANIMITY <the consensus of their opinion, based on reports... from the border -- John Hersey> b : the judgment arrived at by most of those concerned <the consensus was to go ahead>
2 : group solidarity in sentiment and belief
usage The phrase consensus of opinion, which is not actually redundant (see sense 1a; the sense that takes the phrase is slightly older), has been so often claimed to be a redundancy that many writers avoid it. You are safe in using consensus alone when it is clear you mean consensus of opinion, and most writers in fact do so.

You won't screw up unless you put the bar on back. That may be problems.

A heatsink (or a fan) never hurts. Displaced heat is always a good thing.

Papa, thanks for the english lesson! :D Some words are just the same in my lingo.
And yeah, sometimes I giggle about my own posts, too. :L:

I am getting a small order together of different pieces and parts.In My cart are the Gmaxx extension, and a couple of 3.5mm plugs.

1: It sounds like I ought to add the UBEC? Is that a good idea?
2: I need some 4mm pinions. I'll get a range of 3 to get the gearing right. Where should I start?
3:I need a couple of fans. Mike can you add one for the heatsink motormount, and one or two for the controler. What do you think is best?
4: Mike, If you have a UE titanium center shaft for the exteded chassis, I'll take one.

Any thing else?

Should I order through the store? There are a couple of things not in the store. Do you think I'll get a PM from Mike to go over things? :C:

Pm him or email mike seem best. Do you know the tire you going to run? What about the spur mod 1 or 32 pitch? Have weight on the truck? It should be fairly light though. What about cell count as well?

You can also send Mike an e-mail with your list, if you want some extra-ordinairy parts (he can get you most anything RC-related)

An UBEC is a good idea. I would recommend it.

I assume you have a 51t mod1 spur, right?
You could calculate the gearing yourself, or use one of those spreadsheets that guys made and contributed to the forum.
I guess your motor should be able to push your maxx to 40mph without much worries. Mid 30's is a good starting point.