My neu motor is very very hot..
 

It got up to 360f. I don't know what the problem is, my guess is an internal wire came loose with all of the moving from one car to the other. The last time I ran it it got to 260.


Once it get's that hot, is it a goner? Is there anything I can do?

I have an erevo stock, with a 19t pinion. the Neu is a 1512 2.5d with a mm running 4s

lol, i've read that you should not get your motors over 200F. I think the high temps demagnetize the magnets in the motor and you end up with a paperweight. 260F is bad enough and 360F has highly likely destroyed something. Good luck with it lol.

I'm glad that's funny to you, I hope you never ruin a 250.00 motor jerk off.

Easy there buddy, you should have been keeping an eye on the temps of everything during your runs.

I was mid race..

Shoot neu an email and see what he can do for you. I'm not sure what the problem is though, but its most likely a short in the motor winds.

check your motor screws, they might have bottomed out on the windings maybe?


if not sounds like an internal short

Relax guys. Neu will be more then happy to repair your motor. Do a complete check up on your vehicle to see if anything is binding. Check your connectors. Check to see if the bearing on the motor is ok as well. Check to see if nothing is binding the transmission. I had an issue like that and found out it was my diffs that were binding causing my Neu 1521/1Y to go up to 145F (Which is not bad, but it was never getting over 120F). I opened my diff case and found the problem. I had forgotten to add shims and that caused just enough binding to give the extra heat.

I agree with him ^^ Hes smart :yes:

Found it.

When I soldered it, I let TOOOO much solder back up into the motor wire, causing it to become brittle and snap. I'm not sure if I can de-solder it, so I might just heat it up an bend it into it's final position.

Any ideas? And is my motor shot, it still works.

Send it back to Neu and get it fixed. The temps your motor saw might've done more damage then you think. The enemal probably melted off and that can cause a lot of problems.

I will, thanks.

Come to think of it, the wire came pre-tinned. :/

Anyone know what they charge to fix something like this, and the the turnaround time??



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the wire of the winding look like grey-dark.....do you run your motor like this(with the hole )or you have a end bell cover???

Why are you running 2 male and 1 female connector on the motor?

I think it's burnt. I had it covered up with electrical tape, and the front is covered by the motor mount/spur cover.

All male.

could it be a a little chunk of stone who scratch the winding(betwin the magnet and the winding)

That looks exactly like a shorted phase. Don't run that motor again, you might damage other stuff if you do. Give Neumotors a call to get an estimate on price and turnaround time.

Next, if your motor ever goes over 200, check everything over for problems before using it again. I am with lutach as well, send it to neu and live with the piece of mind it will be fixed and running correctly.

I knew I smelled bacon on Saturday. :na: Maybe you should stop halfway into the main and take a temp check?


I think I have my buggy worked out, wanna hit the track?

Those burnt wires definately do not look like solder to me. Looks like a bad phase. I would send it in.

It looks like something jammed the rotor (debris inside the motor, or just a really heavy load) and a stantionary rotor is just about a short - the only thing limiting the current to the motor is the ESC capability, battery capability, and wire gauge.

doesnt the MMM and MM have the auto-off feature when detecting a locked up motor?

lol, yeah, it's called melted power/motor wires and/or blown FETS. :na:

Not fair 1 point away for hitting below the belt :lol:.

lol, I guess any ESC is just a big fuse then, eh?

That motor is smoked. I did the same thing. Bad solder joint and it came off the track at 300 degrees with smoke pouring out of it. At some point it is going to fail if it hasn't already demagnetized.

Neu will replace the motor, but it will not be under warranty as the failure was caused by something other than workmanship of the motor. They have a good replacement program though. 50% off any new motor of your choice.

Isn't it kinda their fault for over tinning the wire?

How does over tinning cause the motor to fail? How far up did it go? All three of my neu motors came tinned pretty much the same, a good centimeter or more up the wire but not so much that it caused a problem.

Most of the wire is tinned.

I don't know. Not sure how over tinning would cause the motor to fail. I have just learned to constantly keep checking my solder joints to make sure they are solid. I have found the constant bumping and chassis slapping from racing can cause the solder to break a bit.

Lesson learned, get a new motor and move on...

If the solder makes it into the motor windings you will have a problem. That's. where over tinning becomes a problem. It's not just the tinning part per say but how long and/or how much heat is applied to the material while soldering the joints together

There's really no reason to keep debating this - you really need to just send it back to Neu. They're a great company and aren't there to rip you off. If they over-tinned the wires and that caused the motor to fail then they'll tell you that. Should have a good turn around time too since they're here in the U.S. Be happy you have a Neu as some of us have learned costly lessons with Lehner motors :lol:

I came home today with a new neu. :) The slip said "internal short" Replaced the case, stator, and bearings.

That was a nice end to the week.

On a side not, the whole wire is tinned again. :/ What ever happened to only tinning the part of the wire that is gonna be soldered?

Only one way to find out if it works properly....

By "the whole wire is tinned again" do you mean the leads exiting the motor? Like there isnt any heatshrink exiting the can, just tinned leads? If the heatshrink is there then don't worry about it. If they are too long to go where you want them to I guess you could try to heat them up and bend them, but I would just shorten them a bit to create a larger radius. Just don't shorten them past the tinned part. :oh:

[Epiphany] Hey maybe that's why they come tinned all the way to the can now. [/Epiphany]

Also, the wires are normally super stiff under the shrink tubing because the wires are the motor windings, possibly to be confused with over solder soaked flexible wire. As someone else said, unless you removed all the insulation how can you tell how far it's tinned?

You can tell by trying to bend the wire, they are definitely tinned more than 3/4 of the wire No need for me to remove the heat shrink this time, it's obvious.

I just find it weird. Both my medusas and my 8xl just had the tips tinned. I'm sure there is a reason.