just some pics of my revo platinum converson
 

so here it is, my revo platinum with a tekno conversion,vantage chassis and much much more

its built for racing and i think to help balance i way go to a smaller/ slightly higher kv 1512

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSCN1147.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSCN1146.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSCN1151.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...s/DSCN1156.jpg

the list
rpm true track,vantage chassis,Hitec HS-7955TG V2 for steering and a hs-645mg for breaking,robison racing slipper plate,castle creations HV-110,tekno edition Nue 1515 2.5D,castle creations BEC,pistix adapter,tekno conversion,integy flywheel and 3 shoe aluninum clutch,hardcore racing one peice titanum skid plate,traxxas coated aluminum balls, Traxxas Aluminum Rocker Arm Post, Lunsford Racing Titanium Hinge Pins,Rd center cvd's, pluse all of the hopups that come on the platinum allready

i still havent painted the body, im not sure what i want to do with it yet

Just watch those aluminum rocker posts I've managed to snap 2!

ohhhhhhhhhh nice , where do you plan on racing it.............:lol:

Real nice job. Looks great. Where did you find your pistix?

I also run the HV110 in my converted Revo but the problem with the ESC is it has the soft start feature may not be good for racing, I am a basher so its not a issue for me

with the center diff at 100w i can take off at 1/4 throtle and its front wheels in the sky, if mine has soft start, it doesnt work:lol:

yep its for racing, i drive soft and dont crash much so i think it will hold up nicely

pistix link for you gee
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=rch-pistix

everybody who carries the pistix is out the guy who makes them has decieded to stop doing so and has offered the info to anybody who would like to make them

like to know how that vantage chassis will hold up against the abuse of the track, want one for the lose of weight. but i've seen them crack and not hold up.
thanks for help

Very nice! Its great to see more "old school" conversions being done.
If you end up converting to the 1512, let me know, I'm looking at possibly getting a 1515.

Very nice, have you taken it for a run yet? Are you racing against Truggies?

i havent run any official races yet, i am a truggy racer and i am hopeing to race aginst truggys, my lap times are getting better but my truggy is still quicker.

i think its pretty well dialed in but with lighter tires and a RD quick turn it will get faster


honestly i think the 1515 2.5d is to much power for a racer on a tight track, so i am planning on buying a 1512 maybe even a 1509 and putting the 2.5d into another truck

so far so good :yipi: i will tell you guys if it brakes but i hope the titaninum one peice skid plate should keep it together


sorry for the double post, i still dont know how to get the multi quote thing to work

that looks SWEET!!!

one Q that i dont know.... why do you use a clutchbel... i have seen em' but i always thot they were dumb questions! LOL

That's Tekno RC's patented electriclutch system which allows for the use of regular flywheel and cb. It comes with the revo conversion kit from Tekno. I just bought the conversion kit to convert my revo to brushless.

ohh... thanks!

so is it for more touque? and could you use just a pinion on it? like do you have to have the clutchbel thing, on for 1 it make the pinion reach? lol

im sorta dumb with stuff invalving elec... lol

:lol:

the clutch bell is kind of strange, i have been trying diffrent clutch shoes and springs to find something that works well

so far i dont like the clutch at all, it came with the conversion but im thinking that mikes mount may be the way to go

ohh, you dont like it.... i would think that that the clutchbel may heat the motor up more, does it? or do you know, im thinking of doing a lec conversion to my 3.3

I will be using a 4-shoe 1/8 clutch and cb setup when I get mine.

You might want to give the setup that is already on the adapter a try first. It is the stock shoes and a spring that seemed to engage just right. I never had it slip, and broke it in correctly, so it does not get too hot. I prefer a pinion myself, but the tekno mount can be moved closer to the spur with some spacers behind it and some longer screws.

the clutch bell gets pretty warm, but the motor and esc are such over kill that after 15min of racing they are 5-10 degreses warmer than air temp

lincpimp

i was thinking of adding spacers but i figured it could cause more flex

i also think moveing the motor foward would help with balance

isnt the cullet larger on a 1/8 flywheel?

i liked the stock clutch and as long as you stay on lose dirt its fine, we watered down the track and in 4 packs i runed 2 clutch shoes so i went to an aluminum 3 shoe and it works but its late even with the shoftest springs.


i have a centrax clutch from my nitro tc3 i am going to try but i dont think it will last very long either

On my current nitro revo setup (OS .18 TZ), I'm running a 3-shoe clutch setup using the following:

Savage flywheel
Traxxas collet
Kyosho narrow CB
Mugen clutch shoes and springs

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture033.jpg

try blipping the throttle to level out the car in mid air so you can downside a jump properly, it wont engage till your hit the ground vertically nose first. At least it doesnt on other 'soft start' esc's I've used.

so far my truck almost never needs to be leveled out, it jumps flat, best part about it so far.


now if only i could get just alittle more low speed steering out of it.

i put another set of stock clutch shoes and lossened the slipper alittle more, i will brake it in this week and see how it does next saturday at the track

Well it has to do with the shape of the launch, not the truck. See the difference hitting the same jump holding the throttle pinned over the lip compared to accelerating then letting go half way up the launch. First one you will nose up, second time you will nose down. Nothing to do with how the truck is set up, just simple physics. If you race on a track your not used to you might not be able to hit every single jump perfectly at the perfect speed, and by using the throttle and brake you can exploit the conservation of angular momentum to adjust the angle of your car in the air so you land the jump nicely.

With 'soft start' air esc's you can't blip the throttle to nose up if you hit a jump off the throttle and nose down a bit in the air.

that Revo setup looks badass. i didnt know Tekno had a conversion for the Revo. i will have to check that out. Here is my 8ight tekno conversion. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15656
i have loved it. Tekno has very clean conversion kits and top-notch support.

no, you dont have to have the clutchbell. you can use a straight pinion if you prefer. the clutch is preferred by many (mostly racers) because you can throttle the engine thru turns, take offs, jumps, etc to get just the right amount of speed. with a pinion it is harder to control the way you throttle the gas because it is always engaged but with a clutch it only engages once you reach a certain RPM. anyway, i also have a Tekno conversion on my 8ight and it came with an elektri-clutch but i dont like it cuz it is so damn noisy and personally i cant tell a big difference from the straight pinion anyway. but thats because i am new to racing. those with experience i am sure have one or the other that they prefer. the guys at Tekno all race with the clutch setup. or so they have told me.

i ditched the clutch for a tekno pinion and added the proline single servo steering arm

im slowly getting this truck dialed in. hopefuly i will be putting in some great laps aginst truggys with it next season

is there anything that i can do to get alittle more steering throw out of it?

the e-revo comes with a new part that allows more steering throw( there is an x part # for it), but eventually you will hit the end and need to dremal off some material on the pivot ball shaft itself where it hits

just a quick update for 2010

I'm still running the revo, i went to an aluminum three shoe clutch and vented flywheel.

i still am going threw clutch shoes pretty quickly but they are last longer than stock

i ended up doing all the sladen mods and still wish i could find alittle more steering but i have a fix for that, im just waiting on some parts.

other than that the revo is holding up great and other that a stripped rear shock post/bulk head i had no brakeages or failures in 2009

Is there a reason the pinion/clutchbell is angled slightly relative to the spur? I noticed it in the third picture you posted.

im not sure what you think you are seeing, if you mean the motor is sitting at an angle that would be throwing off the mesh, then no its not, mesh is great and i am still useing the same spur and clutch bell i started with.

the motor on the tekno kit adjust mesh in an arc, but everything lines up fine