jt racing t-maxx chassis
 

I have found a jt racing chassis for a t-maxx with all they stuff needed except the front and rear assemblys. i was wondering would this with the right shocks and stuff be competive with purpose built truggys like the lsp? does anybody have any experience with one of these? i am thing about getting it and running my e-maxx front and rear ends with it instead of selling my emaxx. what would be a better shock, proline powerstrokes or ofna buggy shocks? and also, what motor would be better for this application. a mach .26 which it comes with or a wasp .28 which i have?

I would run it with the motor it came with and see what it does and make changes as needed.

Just don't forget to flip the diffs, the Emaxx runs the opposite way to the Tmaxx

so would that be competitive against the truggys? also, how long before something like a bigblock starts eating diffs for breakfast?

If you have the aluminum diff cup makes the stock diffs a lot tougher. I can't tell you squee cause never owned a big block.

i think if i get this chassis i am gonna get the flm hybrid bulks with 1/8th gears.

The JT chassis, when properly appointed, is very race worthy. the only downfall it has is the stock maxx wheelbase! Too short! Otherwise, it is basically a truggy chassis...one of the first, actually.

What do you mean by "flip the diffs"?
I put some t-maxx diffs into my e-maxx and it started to make alot of clicking noise.
Also, the output shafts were smaller on the t-maxx diffs too.
Thanks.

The T-maxx and E-maxx trannys run in oposite directions. If you are going to run e-maxx diffs in a t-maxx you need to turn the diff upside down(ring gear on oposite side like this:- to this-: )


Squee if you don't do this, it will run backwards. If you run hybrid bulks and 1/8 diffs they should be ok

Jonnymaxxima, maybe you're diffs had been in a T-maxx for a long timeand had set into a wear pattern. Like full sized cars if a part gets into a wear pattern and you change it(move from car to car, run oposite way whatever) it can accelerate wear.

i already flipped then along with the tranny for weight reasons so no worrys there.

mach .26!

why the mach?

Squee i have the jt chassis and it flexes real bad, worse than the stock chassis in my opinion.

Man Hippie you got a little bit of everything, Don't you?

is it that big of a concern? is there an alternative and also, is there a way to fix the problem?

I think aluminum chassis braces would help,in cunjuction with AL skids & bulks. I have a JT racing chassis & tank if you want it let me know. I made a custom plate for the throttle servo. So the servo sites beside the motor for a direct pull & not up front like the stock one. You dont need the bellcrank any more .

Which chassis are we talking about? The truggy chassis or the t-maxx(stock style) chassis? I thought it was the truggy in question. I also have the JT maxx chassis. It is very light, but I run aluminum braces to keep the flex at bay. I was thinking about the hybrid chassis at first.

The JT chassis is a hybrid that uses the T-Maxx tranny, if i'm correct

Crazy JT makes two chassis, one for the stock tmaxx & one that turns it into a truggy.

im talking about the one that uses a center diff and turns in into a truggy as well as, if im not mistaken, eliminates the stock center braces. hippie, which one do you have?

p.s.-i plan on running that chassis, center diff, waps .28, and flm hybrid bulks w/ 1/8th gears, and eventually integy type 3 pro suspension.

got pics of theM? never heard bout this JT chassis.

Squee yes the JT chassis that uses the center diff does eliminate the center braces it uses a top plate. You will like it its very strong and stiff. The one i have is for the stock tmaxx.

Ok didn't know that

was this a good buy? i sure hope so...also, would a wasp .28 be a decent motor?

-corey

Seems a little pricey considering no diffs are included. No center diff, either(has the dom inator slipper clutch). It is, however, a nice truggy conversion(one of the originals-just too short a wheelbase).
The .28 will be a wheelie monster with that short wheelbase.

so what center diff would you recommend? also, wouldnt a diff stop the wheelies? i think the shorter wheelbase will help a little with some of the tight turns on my local track.

-corey

EDIT: i thought it was a decent buy; ue towers, chassis, bulks, and misc. i have seen just a chassis with a center diff go for 180.

does anybody know it this diff will fit this chassis without modifications? i have been told that the chassis will work with almost any center diff and the chassis already has a ofna monster pirate center slipper in it. although, the guy said in the auction it was a "center drive" and in his e-mail it said "center diff" so i went ahead and got the hyper 7 pcr diff anywho.

-corey

Yes, those diffs have got the same sizes. i thought i've seen that chassis before, it is a centerdiff. That user is on this boards as well, it is 0700.

so it is a center diff?:C: :C: mike said it was a center slipper :C:
serum, do you think it was a good deal?

-corey

Indeed, that IS a slipper.. I thought seeying one of those frames with a centerdiff.. anyway, i don't know the relation between that diff and that slipper. i know the slipper uses larger gears.

if i am not mistaken the .28 will need more top end power than low to mid correct? because i just bought this pipe based on what i know from the basic engine principles. larger displacement=more torque but also equals less topend rpms, thus less top speed. also, what would be a good place to start on gearing? if i am not mistaken that diff comes with the ofna hardened 51 tooth mod 1 gear and i found a clutch setup from a hyper 7 with a hardened clutch bell that is 14 tooth. so would 51/14 be a good starting point?

-corey

help? please

pretty please?

All the jt truggys ive seen with maxx sized tires run a much bigger spur. Something up in the 60's i belive around a 65 from the ofna dominator, that 51 spur might be a little small.

i was thinking 51/13

The 13/51 should be alright with that beast of a motor. Just get yourself a heavy duty clutch setup.

how about a 3 shoe hot bodies lightning stadium? just bought it actually. so how will this motor compare to say, a picco .26 or a rb concepts .23? also, did i choose the right pipe? (see previous post on page 2)

well i think im going to sell my jt racing t-maxx. if you are interest pm me. its got acncm bulks, jt racing hybrid chassis, ti turnbuckles and suspension pins, ur knucklehead towers, powerstroke shocks, mip cvds, true trac rear suspension, rpm bulkhead braces and wear plates, road rage tires on claws rims, a ton a pair parts, and no electronics, engine or pipe. its a great truck and i have only run it for about 30 minutes. i have desided to get a lsp-r because its what everybody at my local track runs. i really hate to sell it but if you are interested pm me because its going on ebay in the next couple of days.