Enough said.
 

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...0FRE/CCN-2.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...%20FRE/CCN.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...1008082231.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...008082232a.jpg
:whistle::whistle::whistle:

Is that a DOH! or a Oh crap? situation? :gasp:

neither, since traxxas dropped the ball on the new CC Neu's.. this shows all the goods that people want to see

Clarification please

People will want to see the motors guts. there they are

i cant take this anymore, are you guys trying to give me a heart attack :gasp:

Bout time you can show everyone that thing! Looks awesome Ben, too bad you had to keep it under wraps all this time. Looks great in the CEN BTW.:yes:

OK.. To help those that are still guessing... It's a Castle NEU. I don't know why he has it... But I am guessing he was a prototype tester and now that Traxxas has released the detials and such.. He is putting her on display in all her glory.

ding ding ding...your correct jayski he has had it for 3 moths hiding it from us that little weasel:whip:

Best keep an eye on those wires rubbing on the motor mount.

yep, they are big enough that they dont sag, they dont touch it

Thanks for sharing. Pretty sweet deal there.

:party:

Nice :party:

It looks cool and all.....but, HOW DOES IT RUN?!

Awesome! How has it been holding up so far? Any comparisons against the real Neu's?

Nice to see that the rotor is balanced, and appears to have some sort of wrap on the magnets. The internal wiring is difficult to see, but does kinda look machine wound... Hope I am wrong.

It is a Kelvar wrap

Runs great, a little hot- but thats probably because its geared up.
Perfectly no problems so far
Is there any real way to tell the difference?
correct

Thanx for sharing. Is the rotor spinning freely on the Castle Neu when you spin it with your fingers? Beeing able to disassemble the motor with screws is a big plus. The protection ring in front of the windings is a good idea for those of us trying to use screws with too much length.

And for those of you who want to compare the Castle motor with a Neu 1515 and Neu 1512 here are some pics while i dissassembled them.

The Neu rotor uses carbon rovings and the front of the motor is part of the can.
http://www.braintrust.at/2007/ds/rc/neu1515_img01.jpg

http://www.braintrust.at/2007/ds/rc/neu1515_img04.jpg

The backplate is only glued but the actual Neus do use screws too. Bigger Bearings on the Neu 1515.
http://www.braintrust.at/2007/ds/rc/..._backplate.jpg

http://www.braintrust.at/2007/ds/rc/...512_cans02.jpg

No protection ring in front of the windings.
http://www.braintrust.at/2007/ds/rc/..._1512_cans.jpg

Neu 1512 rotor with broken shaft compared to a Neu 1515 rotor
http://www.braintrust.at/2007/ds/rc/...2_rotors02.jpg

The motor is very hard to turn over by hand. i have checked everything and there is no binding on the rotor. just strong magnets.

i beleieve the bearings are something like 5x13 or 5x14, look like they should be wheel bearings :lol:

Both endbells are removable, and yes the little plastic ring is a lifesaver:whistle:


I have the 1515 1y. great motor, beats the crap out of my 8xl...:yes:(to be expected) but wow soo much power. after 40 minutes of running geared for about 50mph the motor was at 152, but only because i had it geared up (freind lost my 13t pinion)

Thing is a torque monster..

I wonder what Patrick will say now after he said the rotor wouldn't be wrapped in Kevlar? Maybe he saw the pictures of my 6 pole with the shattered magnets and a little light clicked on and he said it's needed now. I hope to see other Kv options soon.

As traxxas promotes the Castle ESC/motor for up to 6s with a 2200kv motor which will rev this baby up to 50000rpm i guess somekind of wrapping is mandatory ;-)

Looks like I'll be canceling my medusa order for my E-Revo. I was getting tired of waiting for the caslte motor, but now it's release isn't far away. :intello:

I'll still be getting a medusa for my rusty though. :lol:


Ben, whats the lenght/diameter of the motor in mm?

That's what I and a few others told Patrick. He did say it wasn't needed, but I like the fact that he decided to do it.

They actually say 6s on the 1512 1Y 2650kv! or 58830 RPM - I got as far as 5s (50k rpm) and temps were ok....

This was how it went Lutach,

When we started doing destructive testing, we found that the rotors that were wrapped handled higher temperature than those that were unwrapped -- even though there was no difference at low temp. Turns out that the glue is stronger than the magnet material at lower temps, but at higher temps the glue gets a little soft, and the wrap helps keep the magnets in place.

Also, we found that a wrapped rotor usually didn't destroy the stator when it failed (the wrap helped cushion the blow to the stator) where the unwrapped rotor usually did destroy the stator (and pieces of magnet got EVERYWHERE in the stator.)

Oh, and BTW,

This is a hand wound stator. This type of stator design isn't practical to machine wind.

It's a good thing to have anything with more then 2 pole wrapped with some kind of reinforcing material. When will you have other Kv motors available? Is the shaft on your motors epoxied to the rotor assembly? I have suggested to a few other motor manufacturers that before the magnets are place, they should use set screws to hole that assembly to the shaft to avoid any type of problems where the shaft comes loose. Many of my Aveox had this happen and one was just recent.

Regards,

Luciano.

Nice pictire and info, the CC motor is a real looker and built well it seems. Now I dunno what motor to buy - that one, or a 70 or 80 mm Medusa. Curse you all....

I'm in the same predicament. I just preordered the Medusa 70mm motor yesterday :whip::whip:. Now I'm thinking of just ordering the CC motor.

Patrick, is the motor going to be available separately? If so, when?

Congrats Castle on scoring a deal with Traxxas! Looks nice.

Patrick, i LOVE this motor it is amazing, runs a little hot when geared for 52mph.. but tis' to be expected :lol:

Will castle be making a Motor mount for a Cen truggy? :lol: to fit the giant 66t spur gear

Any idea of what the cost will be? I pre-ordered 70 and 80mm Medusas a while back, and that CC 1Y looks tempting. Will there be a lower KV option? If CC will make a 2.5D or some other wind that's under 2000 KV I'll be all over that.

Patrick mentioned that Castle will be sticking to the "Y" winds for effeciency.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...highlight=1518

quoted from post #15

but dont worry....you'll be happy when you see post #18 :yipi:

*edit* figured I'd save you the time

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a 3100kv 1509/1Y I can jam in my CRT.5:tongue:
....Patrick? Care to chime in here?...:intello:



Could be a market for them in the new 1/16 TrX trucks :whistle:

Watercooling possible?
 

I've seen a couple of watercooling jackets and things for motors but nothing where the liquid is directly in contact with the motor.

Is it possible for CC to machine the little slots in their motor into 1 massive spiral, put another thin layer of metal around the motor (to stop water from comming out) and insterting two little water nozzels into the spiral (like fuel nozzels) Water can then be pumped in one end of the motor, pass all the way round to the other end and come out.


Make a little heatskink with a fan, mount it somewhere in the truck to cool the water down.

What do you think? :oops::oops:

get a standard cooling jacket for boats, i dont know the link but there is a company that makes a small radiator and fan combo. just be sure to use non-conductive cooling liquid or de-ionized water which doesnt conduct.

Every boat cooling jacket I have ever seen allows the water to come in contact with the outside case of the motor. I have not seen one that will work with a finned neu, but they do make them for smooth can neu motors.

think he is talking about something like this
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...21_dh-1580.jpg

Would you really want the added weight and current pull of a water cooling system? Resovoir, pump,radiator,fan and lines? Plus the risk of leakage all over your electronics, not to mention having to keep up with making sure you have clean water, no corrosion or orgranisms. You probably could use a cpu water block for the esc to replace the fan and heatsink. But if your pump were to fail, you probably wouldn't know until it was too late.