Not sure what to do?
 

The 7XL runs really good in my E-Maxx but want to try it in something else, I hope people with experience could help me out.

I'm really intrested in the G-Revo, something new, just wondering how it compares, pros and cons compared to the Maxx?

I've seen alot of Savages too and converted buggies. Just I prefer buying parts than modding and chopping bits up myself, is it really worth trying them out?

My E-Maxx might sound pretty good on paper, just not how I wanted it to be and feel I've gone too deep to start replacing parts again, might aswell try something else.

Thanks. :)

No too hard!

G-evo on Li-po!

unique shockdesign, and in some time there will be also a bulkless conversion available for them!! the stock drivetrain is pretty beefy to start with.. and the lipo will not add much weight, so it will be a nimble and fast truck!

Can the Revo adapt any parts from the Maxx, or is it completly unique?

You need a emaxx transmission for one thing!

for the rest, it is pretty unique

I uses the same hex hubs LOL :L:

Well considering the Hex hubs happen to be the only part stock on my Maxx. It isn't really useful, lol.

G-Revo looks very good, just looks expensive too. $70 more than the G-Maxx chassis? Is there a release date for this? Carbon fibre version?

Thanks. :)

I think they will come out with a CF setup, but it would be hard to get the bends done in CF, so my guess is that it will come out in CF for the two upperplates and the lowerplate.

Or you could consider a CRT and modding it to brushless.

Talk about giving myself good idea's....

Exactly, Serum. There's no use in CF skidplates anyway.

yes, the carbon fiber version will be release in '06. i have asked mike and he said that the upper 4 plates will be carbon fiber with the skids remaining aluminum.

that's what sounds logical to me too what that CRT Sicco?

Decided to keep the Maxx and fix the flaws.

Still having CVD problems with them not gripping.

STILL?!!! that is a neverending struggle then?

What kind of cvd problems you having?

Yeh, well it was fine until I want to change the diffs'.

Basicly:

The cvd cups come with grub screws, that grip the output shaft. The cups, are cillinder hollow, with no flat edge on the centre, so they don't "fasten" onto the output shaft. So if the grub screws arn't extreme tight, it spins around inside the cup, going no where.

I want cups, that take the stock pins that go through the output shaft, or cups that take grub screws and have a flat edge on the inside.

Understand? Confusing but basicly done a bodge by using hex pins inside the cups and a grub screw to hold them in, silly me can't get the pins back out - should be able to with some force but want a good working soloution to replace it with.

Thanks. :)

Here is an example (as attached). The cup I have is on the right. The cup I need is on the left. Is it possible to get those? If so where from? Would they work on stock outputs?

I understand what you saying. You want something like the stocksliders. The rd logics take the stock grub screw pin combo. I find the ue cvds have better and bigger grub screws and seem to hold alot better than the others. My ue cups don't seem to come lose.

Ur tired of teh 7xl? I might be interested in it. I got a nemsisi blue 9L motor that i might trade if you want. I gotta test it out first, but i rather have a 7xl, cuz it wont heat up as fast under race conditions.

What drive cups are you using, Nick? I haven't had any troubles with the UE or MIP drive cups, which both use large set screws. I also have Tsais drive cups here, which take the stock pin.

I use MIP.

How much are the Tsais cups?

Rdlogics take stocker pins too? I think that would be my best alternative.

Never had problems with MIP either. Their setscrews work just fine, but when I have the opporunity, I swap the setscrews with some selfmade ones. I just take long setscrews and make them pointy on a lathe. Never did this in quite a while, though.
I have MIP cups in the centerline of my most used truck, un-modified, and never had a problem there.
Nick, just make sure you tighten the set screw on the flat surface of the output shaft.

I find that loctite and tightening the screws down good works great. I turn one in until it starts tought the shaft. Tighten the other side up tight then tighten the first side up tight. It puts more even pressure on the cup. Just a suggestion. Hope this helps you out nick.

Red or blue loctite?

This also asks me, whats the difference between the two? Or is there no noticable difference and is just colour preference? :p

Red is to stay, blue is to be removed. I think, Nick, that your output shafts on the diffgears may be damaged. this could be a reason for them to come loose every time.

I use a hex key with a 6" long lever and cranck them all the way down..

Ok, thanks for clarifying that for me.:)

So I'm guessing I should use blue, if I ever want to see the CVDs apart again? :)

yes, definately use blue. if you use red chances are you will strip the little set screw before you brake it loose.

Just grind 2 small flat erea's down on the shaft where the set screw "set's". Should be fine, no need for a pin that goes thru.