Ongoing problem with Hybrid output shafts...
 

What to do 3 gone!

Setup is G3R CF 6S 123 Neu 1515 2.5DF 24/66....

Difficult to get a photo of the last one head on but it is twisted too...

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u180/Arct1k/031.jpg

:eyes: Ouch.

Did you contact Mike about this yet?

I spoke to mike after number 1 went down and showed Jamie and Mike the broken one at the bash...

I took the diff apart last night to replace the sheared one with my last spare but the second one is twisted to badly it isn't worth rebuilding the diff.

I have emailed mike tonight and sent him the pics...

Sad to hear that....

I have them too but haven't tested yet..

In cases like this, one tends to focus on the broken pieces as the "source" of the problem. However, maybe the real issue lies somewhere else in your drivetrain. Is it possible one of your shafts is binding up in a certain suspension position? If so, I would think your slipper would give before putting out enough power to shear these. One yes, three - no way. Just thinking out loud here...
I guess it comes down to one of two things. Either a string of defective parts, or you have something occuring that creates great opposing forces at that spot.
Has it been in the same spot every time? Have you noticed when it occurs?

:whistle: When it does backflips... :oops:

The drive train is clear it is just the rear diffs take all the punishment... The centre is running the beefy gorillamax dog bones... This part is basically the weak link in the chain... I guess I will need some more slipper action... But thats a fine line from just melting the slipper...

I guess I need the slipperential mike in G-REVO format :)

I still think its a material issue. You just happen to be the owner of the entire 1% of the bad parts.....

I tend to agree with the material issue. I'm not sure if these are the same diff outputs traxxas made and Mike just cut the threaded portion off. If it is, then something else is going on in your setup because the traxxas ones are made of hardened steel. If not, ask Mike what material he used in making them.

This could very well be an issue with the hardening process itself. It could have gotten too hot, not hot enough, cooled down too quickly, and so on. I remember Mike had some bad pinions a while back as well. Although I am not casting any blame on Mike himself for this just saying that it happens.

I have had guys screw up the hardening process for me on many occasions so it is very feasible.

I am running the V.1 diff conversion with buggy diffs (hot bodies) gorilla converted Emaxx tranny with steel center driveshafts, I also run the 1515/2.5d on 5s with both an MGM 16018 and a quark 125 and the only thing i ever broke was the input shaft (on 5s) and a 4 yr old front wheel shaft (stock) on a 6s run. I wish i could tell you what is going on, I'm impressed by the power you seem to have

This is interesting, and makes me scratch my head a little, I mean if a 2.5D which is already a higher Kv motor, running on taller gearing, can break shafts like that, the stockers seem like a much better option. I have yet to twist a stock shaft, and I do beat my e-revo quite a bit.

pasan - I thought you ran a 2100kv motor on 6s geared 20/68 (about 50mph without tire ballooning).

I'm using a 1650kv motor which is geared for under 40mph - stands to reason my setup has more torque unless you are running a 1521/1527.

My bad, I was thinking of a 1.5D for some reason, which is 2700kv. 1650kv is a lot more like it, and obviously a torque monster on 6S of any kind of lithium batteries. And the stock talons do balloon, and came apart in places along the rim, but they've been behaving since I re-glued them. But I digress, you would think these after market shafts would be stronger than the stockers. The rears on mine "creak" a little when rolling forward slowly ( for the longest time I thought it was the bearings ) but a little bit of WD-40 on the u-joints did the trick.

The issue is enhanced I think as I'm running cvd's rather than plastic shafts.

The plastic shafts flex with the load to provide some flex - with the cvds that load is placed on the output shaft. I've chopped down some revo shafts to get me going.

Hopefully the slipperential will be out soon for the G3R.

I am running Traxxas CVd's and twisted a set of Hybrid output shafts as well. I checked for binding in the rest of my drive train as well. There was none. I just chalked it up as they couldnt handle the power being put to the ground. A slipperential would indeed help the problem but that is like a steering stabilizer. It just mask the real problem. I have not ran it again since getting the new shafts. Time will tell.

I'm also running a set of Traxxas CVD's and snapped my hybrid V2 output shafts.

Does anyone the part number of the revo shafts I can chop down to get me going? Arct1k?

Also has any thought of or tried the genuine Hot Bodies Out drive Shafts and cups? Removing the traxxas cups all together? I assume the dog bone will slight straight in.

Part number HBSC8064
http://images.amainhobbies.com/image...e/hbsc8064.jpg

Would these be compatible with the Traxxas cvd's? I wonder how big the ball is on the end of the HB cvd?

the ball is 7.92mm

the pin is 3mm in diameter and 13.9mm long.

im pretty sure the hb cups will be to short for the traxxas cvd's

on mikey84's emaxx that we modded in lst2 diffs, we had to make hybrid cvds with mip revo 3.3 bones. since the maxx uses shorter bones than the revo im pretty sure you will need even longer bones on the revo.

some of the old ofna buggys used longer diff cups, i will see if i can find some

So will the Traxxas cvd fit the hole in the cup? How much is the traxxas cvd gonna come up short?

Here is an alternative set of cvd's for the Revo. They have bigger balls.

http://cgi.ebay.com/THS-320-CVD-UNIV...QQcmdZViewItem

Would they work with the HotBodies cups?

I'm having the same problem as Arct1k.

I REALLY want to bullet proof the drivetrain on my E Revo using the RCM diffs I have.

Ofna diff outdrives. I have bunch of these during my experimentation.

Here are some pics:

Ofna hyper 7 diff outdrive:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture421.jpg

Ofna mutilator outdrive:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture422.jpg

Bunch of them:
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture419.jpg

Here's a picture if it helps. It appears to me the THS set might work fine. IIRC, the THS set has 8mm balls.

This shaft is toast. First the hole elongates, then it starts to crack.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC07430.jpg

As far as the lst diff swap into a maxx goes, I run modded revo stub shafts as outputs and use the 3.3/revo slider shafts. I try not to run large diameter or heavy wheels/tires on the revos or maxx, as they are not strong enough to handle it...

I have a feeling that the summit cvd sliders will be the best solution. I plan to swap my bpp chassis out for a 3905 chassis and beat on the lst diffs some more. I will most likely just run talons, I will balance them first though.

I have said this before, while the lst/hybrid diff solutions make revos and maxxs better, they are still 10th scale MTs. If you want to run big power and big tires or a heavy truck you need to step up to an 1/8 scale truck, such as the savvy or lst.

I am also thinking that my erevo will go back together and be sold as a roller... I am starting the muggy conversion and should have the stretched lst and 6x6 lst based truck done in 3-4weeks... I think one of my 3905 maxx trucks will go too...

I still like the maxx and revo platforms, but they are looking mighty weak compared to the lst. There is just too much that has to be done to make them truly bash worthy. At least the e-tranny is good, and the center driveshafts seem to hold up. But the diffs, arms, shocks, towers and hubs are not that great...

If you really want to make your own outdrives, just buy the revo stub axle shaft and cut the threaded portion off. I had used it before too.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFY7&P=7
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/trac7454.jpg

George16 thanks man I just was thinking about this idea.

The Ofna mutilator outdrive will work perfectly with Traxxas CVD's

Thanks George16 - Do you have a part number for these?

below is a pic of the the traxxas cup paired with the hybrid outters
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...3&d=1237705279

I also brought a set of UE drive cups with shafts off ebay - will let you all know how it goes with the traxxas CVDs- however George16 said it should be fine - so hopefully I wouldn't have to buy the OFNA mutilator outdrives :-)

http://i24.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/33/9c/5c7c_1.JPG

The UE ones you just bought works best. I think I have 5 sets those for my diffs. UE does not make them anymore.

I don't have part numbers for the Ofna outdrives. They came with the diffs I bought.

I see you bought them from Scott(Billytrucks).

yeap grabbed them off billytrucks :-)

The part number for the OFNA ones are 40006
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCWK3&P=7
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/o/ofnc4206.jpg


Since I'm waiting for the UE cups to arrive, I decided to install the genuine Hot Bodies Out drive Shafts, just to see how off they were. Dunno if you can see it in the pics

Dang, Tower is already sold out of the Ofna Mutilator cups.

Where you from George? :whistle:

I thought that was what came with the hybrid diffs, maybe V1, and V2 got custom hardened ones

Ok, I just ordered a full set of the Ofna Mutilator outdrives and a new set of Traxxas CVD's.

Combine this with the RCM diffs and I'll be turning up the power soon. I knew I couldn't if I was already breaking the stock driveshafts.

I noticed there is an extra hole in the inner cups for the Traxxas cvd's. Is this what hold the inner boot in place?

Thanks for your input guys! :yes: Now we're getting closer to bullet proof!

Born and raised in the Philippines, family moved to Michigan, joined the Navy, and now stationed in Japan.

Yes, the extra hole holds the blue traxxas boot in place.

OK, I just received the Traxxas CVD's today. I have to say, Wow!, they sure do look well made.

I really like the boots and how they keep the grease in and the dirt out.

Haven't received the Ofna cups yet, but I'm tempted to run the Traxxas CVD's as is, until the stock Revo diffs are toast.

Fyi The problem with the outputs has gone - It was a bad batch...

OK, well that's good news.

Must have been, because I went through two sets of them. I need something to replace the last set. I'm gonna give the ofna cups a try.

They look really tough, and it does eliminate the screw pin altogether. I kinda like that.

Fewer parts the better.

Contact mike he'll sort you out with the new batch I'm sure

How are the Mutilator outdrives working? Will they work with the extended Traxxas arms?