my homemade slash chassis...
 

finally come up with a design i liked for my slash chassis. im using .125 6061 t6 plate i will cut out the drawing (its just highlighted in dry erase it will be much more prescise) i will bend the sides up (along the dotted line) to a 20 degree incline, at the edges of the sides i will mount a set of shortened xray buggy mud guards for my nerfs to match up perfectly jsut above the bottom of the body. i also extended the wheelbase an 1/8 inch to better match the proline bodies (they seem are a little longer than the stock body). ill use a rustler type front upper chassis. I might make the upper chassis or i might use a stock plastic one depends if brad has one instock at the hobby shop this weekend or not. as for braceing the rear ill be using some spare xray upper links going from the bottom of an FLM rear tower down and forward onto the chassis. Ill also be using an FLM front tower for a better mounting angle of the shocks. For the battery tray i plan on cutting the stock chassis up and using its tray and strap just bolted to my plate. Im not really concerned about the weight as im running 1/8 buggy shocks on all corners, so a little extra weight for traction and with the help of my "cheater" tires as theyve been dubbed i should have one better handling slash. that should hookup and run much better on the track.

any input or suggestions? id like to know if youd do anything different or what you think so i can consider incorperating it into this build.

Looks nice and your plan seems to be well thought out...good lucl and look forward to some more build pics...

I have a crt.5 w/Mikes 40mm ext. chassis and I am thinking of making another one that is 1" longer than Mike's...still thinking about it.

looks good. but whats wrong with the stock one?
are you making it more durable?

yes more durable and ill be mounting the battery ALOT lower like a rustler or any other stadium truck, except itll have a 2 in longer wheelbase than any other stadium truck... plus i just needed another project and my slash is the slowest car i have on the track and is also the worst handling, id like to get the handling and lap times on par with the J82 thats my goal is to beable to run faster laps than i can with the J82, which is gotta be easiest to drive 2wd ever, so its a pretty good challenge


ans magman i actaully thought of it last night while i was setting my alarm about to go to sleep, kinda random but i the more i look at it the more i like.

The chassis lay out looks nice...funny how things come to you when you least expect them.

When I bought my used crt.5, the 1st. upgrade I wanted was to stretch it a little further. I waited until Mike announced his new ext. chassis is 1/4" longer before I made my final decision. Over the winter I will ext. it 1" more.

It will be MUCH stronger. Are you going to bend it up in the center or just use the flat plate? You probably wont even need any bracing unless (depending on your track) you plan on hitting some big jumps. I did the same for my Rustler a while back and it's held up great! Aluminum looks really nice when you polish it up, too!

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...d/DSC00207.jpghttp://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...d/DSC00209.jpg

my sides will be bent up a good bit creating a sort of a mellow tub type chassis. whats your wheelbase at with your chassis? mine is gonna be 13.125

and yes this will go off the BIGGEST jumps you can imagine so its gonna need the bracing front and rear

This looks very nice, both of you guys!

his is a little updated pic of the chassis, im about to finish mounting the tray and work on the upper deck and mount the steering bellcranks, i also am making a rear brace/ esc mount so that i can get away with using the stock shock tower for now in the front and rear until i have an extra $40 for the flm towers. i do need to order another set of mud guards because i can find a left one i have 3 spare right guards and no lefts.....

Nice. How did you bend it?

6 foot leaf break at the college, btw .125 6061 T6 is damn near impossible to bend.... ive never put that much pressure on our big leaf break and you could just do a steady bend either, you had to tap it ,tap it, tap it.....real pita but i gotta say this thing is STRONG you can even get the center to give at all even when putting your knee into the middle and pulling on both ends.... i know why the HPI Bajas are done like this, thats for sure.

im gonna use some fo the same .125 for the upper deck and ill still use some rear braces, anyways. but it really dont need them .

Now that's what I call a bend! It must double as a mud guard for the electronics... :mdr: If you think 6061 T6 is hard to bend, try some 7075 T6 for your next chassis! :oh:

*Edit* My chassis has a 12.5" wheelbase. :smile:

That is quite gangsta Ross. Can't wait to see the finished product...

few more pics.... servo isnt mounted yet as i need to make an upper plate with a recess to go over the shock tower, so ill do that tomorrow on the break during my break lol. battery tray isnt mounted in those pics but im doing that right now. and dont have a big enough piece laying around for my rear brace/esc mount/ shocktower brace.... so ill also fix that up tomorrow, i should have it finished tomorrow minus the left mud guard. i cant wait to try it out my only problem wiht this whole conversion is cutting the little outter "lead seal" section off my rx box. but oh well. plus its been raining for 3 days straight now....

look whats_nitro i have mud guards on my mud guards:whistle: :lol:

btw my wheel base is 13.125"

Top work, u going to put aluminum shock towers on?

thats the plan when a get an extra $40 that i dont need for something else....for now ill keep getting by with the stock towers, as i have a few other importanat things on my list ahead of some shock towers for this. so it might be next week or january i dunno.

i call it a rustislash :tongue:

Looks ace, I think Mike would sell lots of these if he made them- better size for aftermarket shells and more durable than plastic- plus it looks the mutt's nuts. :yes:

Dog's bollucks?

It does look slick, that is for sure. I wonder if anyone has investigated the possibility of modding to the stock chassis for lower cg? Maybe adding some fabbed up ends to hold the front/rear bulks and steering? Seems a shame to get rid of the molded chassis, although an al one would be much stronger.

However this would just be a stretched chassis rustler, which flm sells a chassis to do just that,IIRC...

Still prefer your chassis Ross, looks like it has plenty of real estate for equipment.

im on my lunch break right now i have the front uper plate and the steering done, im getting off here right now and gonna go finish the rear piece and itll be done. ill have have plenty more pictures tonight. this thing is over 2inchs longer than a rustler chassis, i know flm make a super ext pede chassis that is 2inch longer but their extended rustler chassis is only 1 inch over i believe or right around that.

and linc in all that free space all im mounting is the rx box the esc and bec will be on the rear brace.

Nice job... Mike should definitely make a Slash chassis....:whistle:

yay she runs agian........ just doesnt have the mud guards on it yets.

Awsome job in just three days!!

IMO you don't need the extra mud guards, it looks great just sitting their. Props to you my friend .:yes:

Looks slick Ross, very nice job. I was looking at my slash and wondered if there was a way to make up some actual fender liners/skirts, like real cars have. That would keep any mud or debris out of the chassis. This would hinder air flow a bit, but I usually open the windows (ha) on my r/cs.

ya, I forgot about that maybe you could make some thing like the sc8 has:neutral:

the extra mudguards act as the nerf bars do on the stock chassis for the lower body.

you make it seem like i spent forever on it, actual WORKING time on the project was 3 hours tops thats includes assembly and all cutting, bending, and fileing... pretty good time on it. my hole layouts should have been much better but i made them work. The front and rear assemblies are square and straight with each other so thats the main thing.

btw i think this thing gained a good 8-9 oz i havent weighed it yet though.

Very nice job, Ross.