MGM Compro 8012 Car Controller
 

Has anyone tried this controller? I was reading that running a fiegao 8s with it, cogging is pretty much non-existant and supposedly pretty smooth too. I just got the 7018 and the 8s and now I'm thinking I might want to give that controller a try.

I think I may have read that RC-Monster might be carrying them sometime soon as well but I couldn't tell you what post it was.

I expect these controllers any time, as well as the 6012 (60 amp version of the same controller). I will post here as soon as they arrive (should be early this week). word on the street is that these are very nice, smooth controllers and the price is pretty competitive, too.

I sure hope you get these controllers in soon, I've ordered this same controler from ICARE 3 weeks ago and it SILL isn't in yetY You get these before them and I'll drop their order like a rock.

I will let you know, Doug. Should be anytime now.

Controllers arrived today (Sunday delivery a shock to me too).

Hmm, wonder who delivered? Either way, great news, Mike, just hope stocks stay up with these controlers. I'll be sure to give a review of how it works in my MT.

I am testing the 60 amp version today. Programming is a PITA so far, but I will figure it out so I can support my customers. The controller is pretty smooth so far, but I have to play a bit to figure out all the programming "how tos".

I found a nice chunky Flash tutorial on how the programming works on MGM's site. Yes, programming is long and tedious, but in the end, it's well worth it for what would be considered a 'budget' controler. http://www.mgm-compro.cz/programovani_an.htm

I'f you've ever operated a Castle Creations brushless controler, like the Mamba for the 1/18's, you'll know kind of how the programming works.

Thanks for the link. I found it myself, though! It is not as difficult as it is cumbersome!

The controllers are impressive, especially considering they were airplane controllers! MGM acidentally sent me airplane controllers instead of the car controllers I ordered! They are re-sending the proper controllers, but it will be another week. :( Sorry about getting everyones hopes up (including mine)!

Doh!

Exactly!

Okay, anybody try this controller yet? Cogging? Comparison? Thermal problems? Good replacement for a Schulze U Force 75???

Well, the order I got from ICARE finally showed on monday.Gotta say though, they pack these controlers very nicely in a recloseable anti-static bag. 6 pages worth of programming instruction, a controler and a set of decals comes in the bag. The contoler is ready to go out of the bag, first impressions, a bit smaller lengthwise compared to a warrior 7016, but a bit chunkier. The wire leads that come on the controler are about an inch shorter than the warriors, so that might be a considderation to get some extra wire if you have to go a ways to mount it. Operation wise, if you've been wating for a good low-budget controler that has NO COGGING, WHATSOEVER get this controler, I am very impressed by this controler's behavior in a 6 cell environment. The BEC is top notch, didn't feel a bit of power loss to the steering servo. The controler also has the bonus of having the switch harness, which I find a nice convience from my old brushed controlers. I haven't had much time to give it a full pack's worth of test running due to both schedule and weather conditions (it is still winter, last I checked) but it runs good with the stock settings. As others have mentioned, it is a PITA to program, and I can't wait for the car programming software to be released. If you want to program it, it has a myriad of settings, including setting the LiPo cell count, the acceleration curve, the break curve, the low-voltage behavior, and the motor timing. All in all, a great alternative to the Warrior, with the only shortcomming being the limit to 12 nickle cells max or 4s Lipos

Ooh, soounds good enough to me!!! Finally, a good cheaper alternative to SCHULZE!!!!!!! Too bad 4s is limit - but for most 1/10 scale, I believe 4s will be enough.

Ventman, you said it was ready to go out of the bag, what were you running it in?

Have you had a chance to play with any of the parameters? The default settings look pretty good actually.

It's in an RS4 EMT, standard gearing (96/22) easily gets around 30 or so, that is if i can figure out how to get the thing to go straight, never was good at setting the tierods straight.

tierods
 

im with ventman - i cant get mine the same either - im gonna have to check them with rims with no tires - maybe that will solve the problem im having -

The rs4mt has a sloppy steering arrangement (thin wire acts as the draglink), so with brushless power, it may never hold a straight line.

Out of curiosity, why even bother keeping the 60 amp one in stock? For only 10 bucks more (a couple of value meals at McDonald's), you can get 20 more amps!

Well, I got one coming soon... just ordered it. I'm going to have to do a head to head comparison with the Schulze U Force 75!!! Can't wait - it looks really small too.

lol, I had a dream last night I had just gotten my car setup with this new controller and a motor I ordered this week. Driving it in like a parking lot / alley or something and then for some reason I drove it out into the street right into like a foot of water. All I remember hearing was a whining screech and a POP, ran over and picked it out of the water and it was smoking. haha

I just got your order, Young, and will ship it today. I picked up a few of the 60 amp versions more out of curiosity. I want to see how much the 60 amp version can take. I most likely will only stock the 80 amp version (and of course the 120amp, 16 cell version when it is released), but the 60 amp version seems pretty durable as well and is likely plenty for the majority of the smaller cars.

00Aron - sounds like a bad dream to me!

Yeah, it was one of those that you wake up and go "whew" heh

... I haven't even GOTTEN the thing yet and it's broke! ;)

Yeah, the EMT is notorious for the loose steering linkage, but when i got the titanium turnbuckle hop-up, I reused the servo steering linkage and a few ball joints to replace it, that mostly solidified the steering slop, I just need something to properly measure front toe-in/out and probably a good radio with subtrims would help too.

[the 120amp, 16 cell version when it is released)

Mike, any idea when this is likely, it sounds like an alternative to the 9918.

The Expert series is due around May. It should be a very nice controller at a reasonable price.

Okay, finally programmed the darn thing. Took me a good 20 minutes to figure it out though. Once figured out, it's easy - but took a long time to figure it out.

I set it up for max acceleration and max braking too. Started in my TC4 with 11.1 volt 4000 mah 15 c pack. Wow! With max acceleration, it has massive acceleration and massive brakes!!! I might have to tone down the acceleration rate.

First thing I noticed was the lack of drag brake. The U Force has drag brake, but this does not so it might be a tad more difficult to drive in racing situations.

Second thing I noticed is the lack of cogging. NO cogging at all! Excellent!!!

Power handling seems awesome so far.

Only gripe is the inability to truly control speeds like a Schulze. But for 1/2 the price, this is the ultimate basher's controller!!!!! I highly recommend it so far... but I'm going to play around with the controller a little more and try to set it up for racing. So, for now, I rate it second after Schulze and better than the 1895 controller, or Hacker Master Sport (which is no longer sold). Definitely the BEST controller for the money at this point for 1/10 scale RC's!!!

Okay, round 2. I take back what I said earlier. Because I had it setup for almost instantaneous acceleration, I had the perception that it was difficult to go slow, but it's not. So, for the most part, this controller is AWESOME... except for TWO THINGS. On occasion, when trying to go reverse, it goes FORWARD! That's not a major issue... but when going from full throttle to part throttle, it brakes instead of coasting to the part throttle speed!!! That makes it very difficult to race with. Otherwise, it's an awesome controller for bashing.

Keep playing around with it. I am sure the items you mentioned can be tuned. I am not sure on the braking to partial throttle, but it may very well be a programmable feature (it is on the boat controllers).

Okay, round 3. Tried it with different braking, different acceleration, etc. It can crawl around at less than 1 mph if I wanted to (so good slow speed control) and I find the reverse easier to use than Schulze. I still say it's an awesome controller except for the braking that occurs when going from full throttle to part throttle. Going from full throttle to neutral, it coasts, but from full throttle to part throttle, it brakes until it reaches that part throttle speed. So, for racing, I don't think it's ideal.

ok guys, I just picked up my mgm 80amp and a feigao 6s for my t4. The problem is that the wire from the esc are about 1" shorter than what i really need. I know i could just solder a piece in between the motor and controller, but that is kinda ghetto to me. Can i safely unsolder the esc wires and solder new ones on there? if not i guess i will soder a wire in between, but the other option would look much cleaner.
Thanks

It could certainly be done (replace controller wires), but I would rather you cut the current wires back and solder another wire to them (so you wouldn't unsolder the controller wires from the controller). This would ensure that you don't void any warranty on the controller and would be less"ghetto" than a small add on wire.

thanks for the quick reply Mike. I guess just looking at the size of the wire on the feigao motor( looks like maybe 8 ga or something) and then what appears to be something like a 14ga wire on the controller that there would be some losses there. Now granted, I am expecting to see a large power gain over the novak, but every little performance upgrade i can do, i enjoy doing.
thanks

If you are cinfident that you can do it without accidentally unsoldering something else, it certainly is a possible mod. i don't think you will draw enough current to tax the smaller wires on the controller, though.

alright, you are the expert selling these things.....i am assuming you would recommend not doing ti. Have you mounted any where you had to add wire to make it reach, have you considered chaning the wires? i ask your opinion cuz i dont want to ruin a new controller before i even run it.

I usually find a way to mount it within the wires size that is available. I have never had to add wire(in fact, I usually take wire away). You way be able to solder the controller wires to the motor at a right angle (90 degrees) and end up needing less wire than you think. Then, cover the connections with liquid electrical tape (can't heat shrink 90 degree corners).

just wondering how warm the esc gets typically? is it worth it to fab up a heat sink for it or to customize the body to duct air over it?
thanks

Well, cooler is always better in my book. It wouldn't hurt to take steps to keep things as cool as possible.

well the esc got pretty warm considering i was running it outside in 60 degree weather, at night with no body. i have a super small heatsink that will fit on it, do you guys think it would be alright to use a bit of ca glue to attach it to the top and sides? thanks

also, that 6s and the mgm are packing some killer power cuz its managing to slip the diff on my custom transmission.