Slightly overpowered Slashes
 

I just finished up ordering some parts for my Slashes to slightly overpower them. Here's a rundown of the vehicles:

Slash # 1
Upgrades:
Pro-Line Epic Beadlocks
Pro-Line Switch Tires
Pro-Line Hardcore Body
MMM
Neu 1509/1Y
NeuEnergy 3S 25C 4900mAh
Spektrum SR3500 Rx

Slash # 2
Upgrades:
Pro-Line Epic Beadlocks
Pro-Line Switch Tires
Pro-Line Desert Rat Body
MMM
Medusa 36-60-2000
Polyquest 4S 25C 3700mAh
Spektrum SR3500 Rx

I hope to maybe have Slash # 1 running by this weekend, but I'm waiting on my 32P gears from Tower. Slash # 2 probably won't be up and going for a week or two, depending on when my Medusa and Polyquest come in.

And yes, I know, they'll suck on a track with that kind of power. I'm really putting these together for bashing in a large field so I can drive one and someone else can drive the other.

That sounds good to me! I am also doing a little upgrading. I combined two MA 2s 5Ah packs into a single 4s pack, and plan to run that through a Medusa 36-50-2200. It will be geared conservative for just better runtime though.

Even when running the MM 5700 on 10 NiMH cells, my driveshafts started twisting (at the yokes mostly), so you might want to look into upgrading those as well. Maybe it was just the weight of the cells at work, I dunno.

If I run into a problem with twisting, I'll have to look into the new MIP CVD's for the Slash.

Some say the MIPs don't hold up well, while others say they are better than they used to be. Hope you don't have any problems...

I've never had a problem with them on anything I've owned. Also, I'm not sure there are a lot of other options to replace the stock sliders.

There aren't many options. Some say to use jato shafts, but they use the same size yokes, so I dunno.

I wonder what makes these not an option?

Good point brian the FLM cvd's should work. who said they wouldnt?

This little blurb:

The bones would need to be the correct length for Nitro Rustler arms. That's probably the only thing that would keep them from working correctly.

Well if all else fails you could put the FLM arms on as well. Also the arms are extended so the cvds are longer than stock so that is the reason they will not work but only with the FLM arms. Went to FLM's site to see the diff in the arms.

I actually just found that Mike has some Slash CVD's in his store. No info on them at all other than price. P/N flmslashcvd

EDIT: These are probably what Mike has. Pic is from addicted2rc.com.
http://addicted2rc.com/images/Slash-...ckelectric.jpg

However, I'm not going to spend the $ on them until I break the stockers. That's a lot of $ for a pair of CVD's IMO.

Well, I personally would rather stick to RPM arms for the flexibility. But on second though, maybe CVDs would not be recommended for RPM arms because of that flex.

i just put rpm on my slash. Love em, although i only race at my local track and it is a all stock class so i dont have to worry about overpowering the drive line.

let me know how that works becuase thats the setup I would like to go to in my rustler.
What esc are you going to run? I was thinking of a MM, but might go with a sidewinder if I can get away with it.

Yeah, I'll be using the MM. As long as you gear fairly low, the SW should handle it fine.

I'm just waiting for some stuff from Mike and the LHS to get it all together.

http://fastlanemachine.com/PublicPor...5/Default.aspx Was browsing there site today and it is a new item they have. That i am sure what mike is carrying.

Sounds GREAT!! I'm looking forward to seeing the 1509 but FYI!!! You will have twisting issues!.. I have a spare bag of rear axels, I twisted one to two every time I go out and I'm just running my slash on (3s / MM / 3500 Velineon) So I’ll be looking forward to you fixing the problem of both of us!.. IE I'm just going to copy what you do :lol::lol:

Sounds great looking forward to pics and video!..:yes:

I bought the MIP CVD's thinking they would be stronger... wrong. I'm running a MM with a 5700 on a 3s... about 3 minutes into the first pack they were junk. Put the stock Sliders back on with metal yokes and haven't looked back ever since. I'll never buy another set of MIP CVD's for anything I own.

got any pictures ??

Thanks for the advise..

Definitely thanks for the heads-up!

Ok, am I missing something here? I don't see how these CVD's connect up to the stock tranny. There are no outdrives pictured or mentioned.

http://fastlanemachine.com/PublicPor...-electric).jpg

They use magnetic coupling...

Hahahahaha

yeah that is weird i see the shafts to hold the wheel, then those go to the cups pictured and bones go to that and then what? :lol: it says everything is included for a no fuss install.

Maybe they are assuming you have rear steel couplings on your output shafts?? :whistle: IDN Sorry!..:neutral:

P.S.
BrianG - That was funny!..:intello:

hahaha, are the outdrive cups a separate part, are there steel out drive cups available? would the ones from the flm kit work? They should.

I'd like to think the folks at FLM are smarted than to assume that. I'm hoping something is just missing from the pic.

Ok, just got off the phone with Jamie at FLM. There are outdrive cups included with the CVD kit, they're just not pictured. He said the kit includes everything needed to replace the stockers.

Well, if using a strong enough magnet, it could act like a slipper... :smile:

you would never break a shaft. You over torque it just put it back together.

Actually, I envisioned the magnetic bond breaking until the next rev.

Could also act like a diff too. And no mechanical parts to wear out. :smile:

I was going to try this conversion next if my stockers ever let go...

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=242218

Those dogbones are too long for use on the Slash.

Those slashes sound very nice. Which would you (mostly) be driving?

Eh, who knows. I guess it'll depend on which one looks better maybe. I think performance with either one of them will not be an issue.

With my Rustler, I use the steel outputs with Jato shafts and stock stub axles. I twist the pin holding the yoke onto the stubs every few months or so. Other than the occasional replacement stub it's a pretty nice setup.

Thanks for the info. That sounds like a much more reasonably priced setup than going to the FLM CVD's.

Hey guys, I just bought a slash and have an extra MMM. Would like to run it on 4 cells. What motor and gearing would be good???

I'd say either a Medusa 36-50-2200 or 36-60-2000. I'll be running my 36-60-2000 on 4S and will be geared 18:54 to start with. That should put it into the 43-46mph range, which should be a cakewalk for the 60mm motor in a 2wd vehicle.

I am looking for 65mph plus