Kyosho DST 1/10th 4wd truggy conversion
 

I am going to be getting either the DST Truggy or the DBX Buggy. Haven't seen any threads on either of them converted yet. Was hoping to get some thoughts about them before I purchase. I am leaning toward the DST right now. I was reading on another forum that the two are pretty much the same except for the body. I am still researching them, but thought your guys comments could help.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/20899

Thanks guys.

I ordered a DBX when it first came out but sent it back because it didn't seem as durable as an 1/8th scale.

These are more like 9th scale vehicles than 10th scale but I do like the fact they come ready to run and have plastic spur gears.

I'll be interested to see your conversion if you decide to get one.

I've been wanting to get one of these for a while now. Even though I got the LS10 I wanted to see how it compares to it. Hey, I was on e-bay the other day searching for a Jato roller. Missed my Jato every since we did the trade. I'm pretty sure I saw the body I painted in a listing with a roller. Was I seeing things?

Probably not, especially if it was on the TRX forums.

You weren't seeing things. Its a long story but I sold a Jato roller with the body you painted.

I got old faithful back from Dafni and am having a blast with it. "Old faithful is my original 8th scale conversion with a custom chassis designed for two packs (emaxx/erevo style). I'll have to post up some pics of "Old faithful" sometime soon. I am giving the nitro guys a run for their money with "old faithful" and a Novak HVPro 7.5.

You would probably like the DST, its a bigger truck than the LS10 so its probably a bit more stable. I'm temped to get one myself but I have to curb my spending these days :whip:

Let us know if you get and how it handles

I didn't think I was seeing things.

Spending has been up for me this month. Got a Slayer and the tekno conversion. Had to get something to put the 3.3 in so I got a Jato roller. Replaced the Novak HV esc for my maxx. I sold the esc and 6.5 motor earlier this year, but kept the 4.5 motor. I ordered the DST and now looking for some DSM receivers and maybe another esc.

Damn, it's cold over here so. Going to be too cold to run the DST as a nitro. So I will be looking into converting it to electric for this winter. Then undo the conversion for this summer and run it Nitro for a while. I will keep a post on how the conversion goes.

Definatly post up some pics of old faithful. I'd really like to check it out.

I bought the Kyosho DST 1/10th scale truggy a while back. It should of been here on the 19th of December, but UPS had it's hands full with the weather here. It showed up on Chrismas eve, so I held out until 12:01 before I opened it up. For those of you that were interested in it also. Here's some decent shots of it and some of the tear down. The photo bucket link has a lot more detailed photos. Just grabbed a few to put on here. I took a few comparison shots so you could see it up against some other familiar rcs. Excuse the STRR and Losi 8B appearance. They are up for the winter and awaiting to be teared downed, cleaned, and gone over.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7291.jpg

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It a little wider and longer then the LS10. Not getting the LS10 new the comparison for me is a little one side. Not really but the DST is shinny. The items that came stock on the DST that appear to have the upper hand over the LS10 would have to be the center differential. Nice dual manual brake setup with easy independant adjustments for the front and rear. The shock are a nice set of Kyoshos lower end shocks which are better then any other RTR plastic shock I've seen. They have the adjustable ride height to them. They are the same design that I had on the Inferno ST before I started upgrading it to the STRR. They worked well on it. The knuckles and pillow balls are a nice feature that I would say is better then the LS10 uprights.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7310.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7311.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7317.jpg



It definalty looks like a 1/10th when you sit it next to the truggy. Man that truggy needs a good cleaning.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7322.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7321.jpg

It doesn't next to the 1/8th buggy though. In size it is close but the buggy is built with 1/8th parts and you can see the difference in the cvds and turnbuckles.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7324.jpg

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I will be putting it to the test to see how tough it is and handles soon. Well hopefully soon and I suppose that depends on when the snow melts away also. By the looks of the winter so far that part could be a long time out.

I've read in other forums that the stock steering servo has failed on others pretty fast. A few have also indicated they have broken some arms. Don't know if those are user errors or a indication of what I can expect. Haven't read much about the shafts breaking or the diffs giving out. I ordered some extra arms and spur gears to start the spare parts bin. The rear tie rods on it look pretty stout.


The bearings that hold the center differential in it bulk are a 12x18x4 bearing which figures. Kyosho always seems to just a little different somewhere. I had the RCM Kyosho motor mount from the STRR conversion and was going to use that. Well the bearings are too big. I tried the sandwich trick but it will put the motor too far back from the spur. The pinion will be on the very end of the shaft. So that's were I am at now. I am working up a custom mount using Mikes motor mount as a template more or less. Pretty hard to come up with any improvements over his design.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...T/DSCF7332.jpg

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Here is the photo bucket link if you want more.

http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/c...DST/?start=all

I will have to post a pic of the way the center differential is setup with a top that seal the differential, then the spur (with a hole in the middle) screws into the diffential. You've probably seen what I am talking about.

How much does the DST weigh?
Thanks

A-Main has it listed in the specs as 2,300g (5.07lbs). I never put it on a scale before I took all the nitro gear off it. The scale I got isn't real accurate but I come up with a of 3.25lbs. That's with 1 servo, center diff w/o the rcm motor mount, 4 tires, and no body.

coo build. i plan on doing the same with a used DST i got for a steal. The owner told me it smoked mt2s, but is on the fragile side

Looking good.

Nice build. I thought of doing one but now have other things on my plate. If anyone else is interested in putting one of these together I have a brand new one I'm looking to get rid of.

pm sent riceman

Thanks. I made a motor mount out of lexan but I isn't anything worthy of a pictures yet. I screw up right off the bat and drill a hole in the wrong spot. Tried to salvage the peice of lexan by working around it. It works have hoad it out a few times. I haven't been able to try and beat it up though. All snow up here. It's been doing great in the snow. Got deep so I put some 2.2 Moabs on it for some ground clearance. So far I am liking it a lot. Will see how it how. Will be nice to have some other DST builds going on here at RCM.

Before I get ahead of myself check these threads concerning bearings, center differentials, Motor Mounts, etc. If you need info concerning that part of a dst conversion.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17911

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17962


I scrapped version one of the motor mount after spending some time this weekend making a new one. This one turned out much better then version 1. It's atleast pciture worthy. I still messed up a little with the motor mount screw slots but will be able to use a couple small washers to mount the motor with. The mounts work great no binding and is real smooth. Center diff spins freely and is angled correclty with the center shafts. Unlike my first version if you are wondering why I mention that. It's held up for a test run but will need the washers for a little piece of mind while I am running it. Kind of bummed about that washers because I liked the keyhole access for mounting the motor but they are useless with washers installed unless I make the access hole the size of the washers.

These pics are some of the draft pictures before I put some finishing touches on it like cleaning and "polishing" the edges up to get a clear glass look.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...ount%202/1.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...ount%202/2.jpg

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http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...ount%202/4.jpg

Actually the second (smaller mount) in those pictures was scrapped and a new one was made. That one didn't line up right and was a little off in size.

do you plan on selling that mount? do you think an 8.5t LRP and novak Havoc ESC could move this truck?

just got mine today, these things look pretty fun. Bad weather over here though, so i dont think i can run it until friday. More updates soon

nice build mate

the good thing is that kyosho is still coming up with monthly upgrades for this thing....looks much better without all those plastic parts!

how much bigger is it to the crt.5?

Thanks. I am not sure what the size is compared to the .5. Never seen a crt .5 first hand. I took some pictures of it next to some of the ones I had when I first got it. Don't know if those shots will help you out. How big is .5 compared to a Rustler?

how did you get the 1/8th buggy rims on there?

I had some of those plastic 17mm Maximizer adapters laying around from my Slayer and they fit. Mike has the same ones in his store, but they are alum instead of plastic. The buggy tires work good and gives it a little more clearence.

Gee -

That's really nice! I just bought a used DBX to convert to brushless also. I really wanted a DST, but couldn't find one for cheap.

Do you know what pitch the spur gear is? Mod1.0?...Mod0.8/32p?

Thanks.

I plan on throwing on some larger wheels/tires to make it more truggy-like. I have my E-Savage stock wheels/tires that I think would do nicely. Then another set of 1/10 MT wheels w/ off-road tires.

I don't mean to sound ignorant, but instead of having to mill a new center-diff mount, couldn't you have just used a custom-size bearing and used Mike's RCM ST-RR mount? or, just mill the RCM mount to accept the Kyosho bearing?

I mean, I love making my own parts as well, but in this case, I would love to have yet another one of Mike's millings on my truck...you know?

Anyway, just my $0.02...

I'm almost done with my conversion and I used a Graupner mount that I needed to cut in several areas to make it fit without contacting the rear bulk on the center diff, the front bulk on the center diff, and the rear drive cup on the center diff. Hopefully it works out well.

JSR - sorry I didn't see your question earlier. YOu probably got the Mod 1 figured out by now. I've since uncoverted this one back again to see what it runs like with the engine on it. It will go back brushless later this summer.

Chadworkz - it's been a little while since I did this conversion but there were a lot of factors that went into why it ended up like it did. I am sure mike would have did some custom work if he had the time. We briefly discussed the options for it. Custom bearings are very hard to find. Most of the mounts also are on the other side of the RC and Kyosho also seem to have odd size bearings. Most of this was done with what I had on hand to work with. There have been several projects since this conversion. I'd have to go back and follow my trail to refresh my memeory. I do not clearly remember all the options I researched looking for the best way to do this. I will have to trust myself by thinking I did and this was the best option for me. I've made lots of stuff out of lexan including a ruslters chassis and complete set of arms for it. I actually enjoy the challange that it presents vs buying something that would make my life easier. There are more way to skin a cat. Good luck with catching it.

jsr - would like to see some pics when you get your done.

Will do Gee. I'm almost done. I just need a few hours to finish everything up and test it. Prob is I'm not sure when those few hours will be available.

Ok, I got almost 2hrs to work on my RCs today (that's a lifetime for me...got the baby to sleep for a couple of hours). Here's my DBX (I wanted a DST, but couldn't find a used one) converted to brushless.
Per RCM's calculator, it should go 40mph, but it seems to be doing only about 30-32mph on 3s. Still fun and fast. The Graupner motor mount has flex since it's plastic, so there's a pole piece (a long piece that was a plastic standoff I got from another truck) underneath the motor to prevent the motor from moving down as it hit bumps (thus changing the angle of the pinion to spur). The Graupner mount has to be cut where the spur is to allow for space for the spur to contact the pinion, and where the front center diff bulkhead is to allow the mount to be moved inward toward the centerline of the chassis to let the spur and pinion contact. I drilled 2 holes in the base of the mount, one rear of the motor interface and one front of the motor interface to attach the mount. The rear hole attaches through an existing hole in the chassis that I widened (to allow for adjustability toward and away from the centerline to account for different tooth/size pinions). I had to drill and widen a hole in the chassis for the front hole in the motor mount to line up. I used concaved washers and flat-head bolts underneath with nuts on the top of the chassis to secure the mount.
I'd recommend a stiffer mount, something metal. I got the Graupner mount from Offshore Electronics. Their DR metal mount would probably be better, but it would have been much harder to cut as it would still need cutting. Looking at the pics of the OSE DR mount, it would need to be right where the motor attaches to the mount to make clearance for the center diff rear bulkhead. This part would cut close to the mount hole for the motor, so you'd have to be careful and I'm not very clean at cutting with my dremel.
To fit the E-Sav wheels, you need to buy 12mm to 14mm hex adapters and drill out the center hole on both the adapters and the wheels to allow the larger spindle diameter of the DBX to fit through.
The stock springs are super soft, so I'm running Ofna yellow (which I think are Medium stiffness) springs I took off my Ofna truggy shocks. The springs now are too stiff for the oil, so I need to change oil. I plan to use 60wt and see how that is.
Because the ESC sits in the space where the RX battery pack used to go, I couldn't get a temperature reading, but by feeling around it (the heatsink), it didn't feel hot. The motor hit a max of 120F with ambient about 77-80F. I might put a 16T pinion on to see how it performs with that (I want a little more top speed).

SETUP:

Hobbywing EZRun 60A ESC
Hobbywing 17.5T 2400kV Motor
UBEC 6V/3A
Graupner Plastic Motor Mount (cut to fit)
13T Pinion
HPI RX (Kyosho one died)
HPI E-Savage wheels/tires (~5.4" diameter, drilled)
12mm to 14mm hex adapters (drilled)
Ofna Yellow (Medium?) truggy springs
3s LiPo

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/5660/img3224abr.jpg
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Nice trukc you got there, but what if those zip-ties snap and your lipo shifts towards pinion. Could cause some fireworks.

Oh, the motor mount is between the LiPos and pinion, so the LiPos can't get near the pinion. The zip ties are a temporary way to hold the LiPos for testing to make sure things worked. I'll figure out some other method later. But there's a physical barrier (motor mount) separating the LiPos and gears.