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Kyosho ST-RR conversion
The truck was waiting in the mail when I got back from vacation :cheers: :cheers: . Here are some pics of the conversion. It only took me less than a couple of days since I'm still in vacation "locally.
Before the nitro stuff were removed. I actually thought of doing the break-in of my BB engine but decided against since I already had the engine mounted on the SM. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture001.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture002.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture006.jpg Nitro stuff removed. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture008.jpg RCmonster motor mount and plastic kyosho spur. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture007.jpg Motor mount installed. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture010.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture011.jpg |
Motor installed. It's the same TeknoRC Neu 1515 1Y from the emaxx. I'm still waiting for the Medusa 36-70-2000 motor which will go to this truggy. The Neu will go to the heavier emaxx.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture012.jpg I made an ESC mount from a piece of metal and painted it blue to match the truck. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture024.jpg Battery holder installed. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture025.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture021.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture022.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture023.jpg MMM V3. This is my third MMM. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture019.jpg I will be running a 5S setup on this truggy. Right now, it's geared for 46-49 mph. I will check the temps but will droop down the pinion size to 14T for a 40-42 mph top speed for racing. |
Cleaned and put fresh 30K diff oil in the center diff. The front has 7K while the rear has 3K.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture009.jpg Cleaned and put fresh 50wt shock oil on the massive 16mm big bores too. Side by side against UE's supershocks. They don't look super anymore :D :tbtb: . http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture032.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture033.jpg Front shocks installed: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture003.jpg Rear: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture004.jpg Front gearbox. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture031.jpg |
Completed pics minus the tires. I'll be running LPR rims with CF MTRs.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture026.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture027.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture028.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture029.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture030.jpg I'm still waiting for the E-revo rx box which will be installed where the rx is now temporarily velcro'ed to the mud guard. I'll post some pics later with the tires on. Comments and feedbacks are all welcome :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: . |
Very nice....I really want a truggy in the spring...but I have to sell my 2.5 Maxx which I started converting, but never completed
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Thanks bro and happy birthday.
I wish this rain stops so I can do a test run. A buddy of mine is selling his ST-RR with a just broke-in OS .28ZX and I'm thinking about buying it. If I do, I'll keep it nitro. Hmmmm, so many projects, so little time. |
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I agree w/so many projects...but for me lately, NO time to play |
Nice work George. Look nice and clean. Let us know how it runs with the motor and what Lipos you use. I had mine converted but took it back until I pass the 4s threshold. I made a tope plate out of lexan that streched out over the front and the rear of the center differential. Made a nice place to put the esc and receiver up out of harms way like you have the esc setup now. I didn't need the top brace over the differential due to the lexan provided that for me. Don't want to muck up your build thead with pic or links. But if you want ot check it out there some picture of it in my thread Kyosho upgrade and conversion here in the truggy section.
If you still have the other part of the servo tray. Could you do me a favour and measure what the length of the servo tray would have been before it got dropped and broke into two pieces? Once again nice work. Looks great! |
Gee, thanks. I actually looked at your's and Rootar's (your's was converted ST-R) builds to help me complete mine. I thought about the lexan but I'm too lazy to do the cutting. I'm might do it once I go to the ship since we have nice machines(CNC and what not) that I can use. The conversion was easy and painless to say the least.
One thing I noticed about the Kyosho is the amount of chassis flex compared to other truggies like the GS SUT Shaun sent to me. To me, there is a lot. I'm going to order King headz chassis braces shortly. Let me know what you think about it. The overall length of the servo tray is 130mm. I'll be running a 5S setup using Neu 5AH lipos. Right now, it's geared for 46 using the stock 50T metal spur and 15T RCM pinion. I tried installing the plastic 46T spur with 13T pinion but the mesh is not right. Depending on what I'll find out when I do my initial run, I also have a 48T spur and 14T pinion as spares. |
You know I've never really paid much attention to the chassis flex. Just went and checked it with the middle it on the edge of a counter and it does have some flex to it. Unfortantly I don't know if that is good or bad. If I wasn't just a basher I might have and idea how it performs on a consistent basis at the track. Shark123 might now he has had one coverted for some time now and I think he runs it on the track alsp. But it consistently bashes great with a little flex to it. I use to have a Raze ST truggy but never thought of comparing the flex. The handling was definately noticable between them.
The servo tray was one of the last visisble items I was needing to complete the conversion. Now I am not so sure. Mine measure out the same at about 130mm. But back when I undid the conversion and put everything on the extended strr chassis the servo tray wouldn't line up correctly. I know the mounts are different then the plastic one the str had. Maybe those would line up correctly. Thanks for doing that for me. I take that back I can see visually the strr servo tray is a different design. For one the triangle style cut out on the side by your servo are not on the str tray. Okay back to the bidding wars for it. |
i would suggest ditching the 30K unless your just bashing, the st-rr i built for josh had 15k in the center and itll flip over backwards and lift the front end at the blip of the throttle..... id try 10k for any kind of track use. im only running 7k in the rc8t and itll still loft the front end
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Gee, what holes did you install your shocks at?
Damn, I should have kept the 10K in there then. Oh well. Back to it again. Thanks Ross. What spur/pinion did you use? |
1515 2.5d on 5s with a 16 pinion and 50 spur, geared for just under 40mph works excellent im running the exact same setup in my Rc8T.
ours are built strictly for track duty and racing, if i only bashed id have a 100k in the center so i could do wheelie and flips on demand. |
George16,
what does changing the center diff fluid to 30k but leaving the front and rear the same do? does this make the 4wd better? |
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the thicker the oil the longer it takes the center diff unload to the front tires on takeoff, nitros can get away with running a thicker center fuild because they have a clutch and not near as much "snap" as brushless i would saygo light for track use 7-10 to make it handle good and go heavy as you want bashing because wheelies are part of it.
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I'm running a mixed set of shocks on mine. I have Jamming BB in the rear and Kyoshos in the front. As for the hole sizes I don't remember which ones. I had been e-bay shopping for BB for a long time. Had a hard time spending what they wanted at the LHS for a new set. WOW. I was pretty excited when the BB's showed up in the mail. I just put them together without thinking which size I should install in them. What a difference the big bores made in how it handles. It was worth the wait.
I need to tear into my diffs and check them out. Let us know what you think of the 30k in the center. Rootar so what are you running/recommending for a electric? Starting in the front 7/10/3? I am running a nitro at this time so I should go with a heavier center? |
Well, the rain finally stopped earliear but the track is so wet and muddy. So I was forced to do the initial run on pavement while the track is drying up. My initial impression is WOW!!! The truck rides like it's on rails. I thought it will behave different compared to the nitro version (friend's truck) due to the added weight of the batteries but I was wrong. Turns on a dime and I can actually drive it at high speeds in a straight line without my hands on the steering wheel :applause: :applause: :applause: . I like it so far. I'll give more feedback once I run it on the track and do some jumps. Main concern I have is the chassis flex especially in the rear end.
Here's a couple of videos: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h..._RR18Dec08.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...-RR18Dec08.jpg Temps are as follows: Air temp - 48*F ESC - 99*F Batteries - 90*F Motor -102*F It seems too good to be true for the temps until I realized that there is a big hole on the front windshield of the body so there's a lot of airflow. The MMM's fan didn't even come on(it did during calibration and initial setup). My setup: Batteries - 5S 5000mah Neu lipos (I might go 4S and gear up according for 40 mph) Pinion - 15T Spur - 50T Diff oils: Front - 7K Center - 30K Rear - 3K Shocks (16mm bigbores): Front - 50wt Losi shock oil Rear -50 wt losi |
Here's another video. The track still has a lot of standing water so no dice in jumping the truck.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...-RR19Dec08.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture050.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture051.jpg |
that kyosho looks sweet
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Dang that's a nice track!
Your truggy looks awesome! |
Nice, looking conversion. Yeah I have been running my ST-RR conversion for some time now and love it. One of the best handling truggies I have every driven and I attribute some of this handling to the chassis flex. Most buggies/truggies are designed to flex, that is why the braces stop short and attach to the middle of the chassis (and not to each other). Without this flex it would feel like a brick. I use the King headz braces only because I was worried the stock Kyosho brace might pop off (held on with a large ballend) and so far they are working great. So don't worry about the flex, it is a good thing.
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What's your current diff oil and suspension setup? Thanks again. rschoi_75, we built that track inside the navy base here in Yokosuka Japan last year. The background is the mouth of Tokyo Bay and it gets windy and cold especially now. |
George16, I am running 7K, 10K, 3K in my diffs and that setup works well for the short technical track I run at. One thing you have to keep an eye on are your diffs, the ST-RR uses spiral gears and they are very sensitive to shimming. The torque, heavy truck, bigger tire contact patch, plus the fact the neu motor puts out so much torque it can shred diffs bigtime. I destroyed my center diff one week and then the front blew the next week. The center blew out because I switched to an aluminum diff cup that was a little out of spec, the front blew out because the inner pinion bearing let loose throwing the mesh off. I have switched back to the stock Kyosho diff cup for the center with harden HB gears and rebuilt and reshimmed the front diff (and replaced all the bearings). Don't get me wrong, the ST-RR is a durable truck, I have been running it hard for 5+ months and these are the first diffs I have blown. Nothing else major has broken, but I did wear out the front bearing in my Neu a few months ago (replaced by Neu).
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Shark413, I have about 5 sets of Ofna diffs/gears that I can throw in there if the stock ones get sheared. With that said, I will also have to change my spur/pinion since the ofna diff I have are from the buggies which use a 43/13 ring gear/pinion.
Well see how the stock goes. I'll just have to change back to 10K for the center since I put 30K in there. I like how it's setup now but there is always room for improvement. Thanks again. Edit-I also installed the HB hardened gears in the CD. |
George16, regarding the suspension, were pretty close. I am using Kyosho BB with the blue springs (stiff) and 55wt in front and 50wt (associated) in the rear. Using about 5mm preload in the rear and 3mm in the front. Arms parallel to the ground after bouncing the suspension. At my track the biggest jump is a 3 foot triple, the rest of the track is pretty smooth and the suspension works well for me.
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The water finally dried out from the track yesterday so I did some laps to test the truck. It was sunny but very, very windy. My son had a hard time filming due to the strong winds. I didn't put any background music so everyone can hear the howling wind.
Temps after a 15 minute run: ESC- 104*F Motor - 132*F Batteries - 100*F air temp - 60*F but felt like low 50's. http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...h_cfcca387.jpg I'll be changing the center diff oil to 10K instead of the 30K I have in there. |
Just installed some upgrade parts.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture056.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture062.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture063.jpg Dace Mfg. 17mm hex: http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture066.jpg I had a chance to ran it last Friday and Sunday when the air temp was about 57*F and 68*F respectively and wasn't pleased with the results. Here's my gearing and temps: ST-RR 50/15, 5S Air temp was 57*F ESC – 104 Motor – 131 Batteries – 100 ST-RR 50/16, 5S Air temp was 68*F ESC – 112 Motor – 170 Batteries – 104 I'm going to try 48/16 this weekend and see if the motor temp drops. Both were continuous 10-12 minute runs. I went up to 16T pinion based on this: Hot motor, cool controller, cool batteries = undergeared |
whats gearing do you recommend guys for 2370kv motor on 4s @ 14.8v ?
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What's your target top speed? If I'm going to run 4S, I'll start with a 46/13 gearing.
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do you think 50/13 would be overgeared or undergeared ?
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Anyway, I installed the Castle 2200Kv motor on my ST RR. I still have to run it though. Weather had been crappy lately and it looks like it going to continue raining through the weekend.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture075.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture080.jpg http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture081.jpg Do I love Castle or what :D :cheers: ? http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture079.jpg |
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In fact, I returned my TeknoRC Neu to Neumotors for repairs (bearings wer shot) and I just received a shipping notification yesterday :party::party::party:. |
George16 : heh cool setup :smile:
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since my KB36-7XL was dead ( overheating ) here is my new setup :
Motor : Neu 1515/1.5D/F 2700kv ( 5mm Shaft ) Speed : Mamba Max 1/0 ESC ( Bec Disabled ) Battery : TrueRC 14.8V 6400mAh 15C 4S2P ( 96A Cont. 128A Burst. ) Gearing : 50t Spur - 13 Pinion. how do the runtime would be on this ? and all would run perfect and cooler no overheating problems ? http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/2500/setup.jpg |
Jason: for a buggy, that would be fine; but in a truggy, might be geared a bit high - I'd try 12T pinion first (for 36.5mph)
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That is a potent motor. In my erevo with that motor a pair of 4900 25c 2s lipos wired for 4s could barely keep up. I would go down to a 12t pinion. Your lipo will thank you.
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I agree with what was said. Right now, I'm geared at 50/14 but still have to run it though. I'm hopinghtis weekend will be better.
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