Jato Roller came in planning on putting a remote start on it
 

Wasn't sure what I was going to do with the 3.3 motor I took ouit of the SLayer. But I did miss the Jato after I traded it. So I picked up a roller of ebay. Looks pretty clean wasn't a bad price either. Now I got till spring to get it ready to go. Read an article where they made the Jato a remote start with their 3rd channel. Thought that was pretty cool so I am going to give it a go.

Ooops, haven't finished with the pictures yet. Will add a couple sd soon as I resize them and what not.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCF6738.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCF6739.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...r/DSCF6740.jpg

Hey this is going to be pretty cool. Push a button on the controller and it starts. Electronics, small lipo, soldering iron, wires, an esc installed. It's like a hybred.

We (you) have got to come to peace with our inner issues at some point or they will burn us (you) up from the inside out. You have got to now the Nitro guys are hurting. They are starting to see the light. Someone should at least be able to communicate with them when their ship landsl.

Yo gee, Thats a cherry roller you picked up. This is going to be a pretty cool setup, I saw that exact write up in RCCA. I would run a 2s Lipo like 2000mah or w/e can fit to provide power for the start up system, and also solder a CC bec or similar to that to provide power to the eletronics so it's just one big battery that you have to charge. The CC Bec from castle will flash a red light, and more importantly shut off when the input voltage gets to the level that you set the output voltage to..So If you set it at 6.0v(what voltage a fresh receiver pack puts out) this will be a form of a cut off for your 2 cell lipo.

Did you see my brushless jato? It's worth it, but you already have a motor to be put in order, that will be balls out quick as well.

Thanks for the tip Sean. I didn't think about the CC bec. Good idea.

You got a link to your jato? I'd like to check it out. I got a motor for mine and had a little fun running the last one. It may find it way to the conversion table one day.

My thread about my jato is In the Section Jato as well!

Eeeewwwwwwwwww!!! :slap:

But in all seriousness, it should be a cool project..........kinda:wink:

what in the haaailll?! This is going to be bad ass.

Hi guys, I could use some guidance as to what to look for as far as an esc to use in this project. It will be used with a 2s 7.4 lipo, a ccbec will be used to provide power from it to the electronics in the jato. It will be connected to a brushed 380 motor to crank the 3.3 motor but it will also be providing the glow plug with power at the same time. All I know is I need a brushed esc with a small foot print but not sure as to what amp size or any other considerations I should keep in mind. Thanks for the help. Again.

You do realize that the glo plug requires ~1.5v right? Feed it with much higher and it won't last long.

Since the motor is small, I would say no more than a 25A ESC would work. Define small footprint. If you happen to have an unused CC Mamba micro ESC laying around, it has brushed mode.

Thanks for the help Brian. Smallest I have is a duratrax sprint esc. I had pictured something the size of an sr3000. Didn't know about the 1.5v. Thanks. Once I get started on this project I am sure I will have a bunch of question to ask. One reason I decided to do this was to be able to learn something about circuits how ever small it may be on this project. I wanted a backup before I started tearing one apart so one is in the mail. Once it arrives I can start poking around a bit.

Why do you even need an ESC? If the motor you are using is rated for the voltage of the battery you are using, just use a switch of some type. DimensionEngineering makes one. An ESC would certainly work though but it would be on or off (no variable throttle needed).

Getting 1.5v might be a little tricky depending on how much current a glow plug pulls. I assume it is at least 2A, so a linear regulator would get pretty toasty by itself. You can use a pass transistor to handle the current and power dissipation, but still inefficient and the heatsink would be fairly large. Same idea about using a power resistor to drop the necessary voltage, but that too would get hot. You could get fancy and use a 555 timer and a switching transistor to make a rudimentary switching PS; just figure out the duty cycle based on the supply voltage you're using (2s lipo would need about 17-18% duty cycle to get ~1.5v). Then again, the glo plug won't be on very long, so I dunno. I'm probably overthinking it again. :oops:

I was following you up until the point. Well no need to let that be known. The eliminiation of the esc and/or board was what my ultimate goal was on this. I was just going to get it working as the article described them figure out what I did and try and eliminate what was possible. I have no problem eliminiating what is not needed. I am going to look up a step down resistor but would it work for the glow plug or it already above but called something a little different. I know you typed all that faster then I read it, even the sixth time I read it.

The best way that I can see doing the glowplug is using a sub-c cell hooked up to supply power on and off when the motor is starting the engine.

sorry to burst your bubble gee, but http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7aST...ext=1&index=19
It was in xtreme rc issue 132 and by my understanding they used the ez start and just mounted it on the car and used a lipo to power it. That would be how I'd do it.

No problem that is the article I have refering to and was going to use when I put it together. They don't go into much detail about the esc or any voltages. Just which wire to disconnect and where to connect. They used a esc called a pilot 35 avionics by team orion in their build. When using the board from the ez start the glow plug is taken care of. Towards the end they mention they used items they had on hand (the ez board, esc, etc) but those items could be substituted with other equivalent items, even the entire ez-start circuit board could be reduced to a simple step-down resistore for igniting the glow plug. My knowledge of circuits isn't remotely to that point but it seems like a good learing project get it going and improve on it. Well improve on it by making it smaller is what I would think to impove it.

Seems like the easiest soluton would to get a whole ez start system. Take apart the handheld thing and put the chip somewhere inside the jato. The only hard part is making the switch activate through the receiver. Everything else is really easy just put a 2000mah 2s lipo on there and you're good to go.:yipi:

I agree, that would be the easiest. I remember taking mine apart back when I had nitro (:oops:) and there is stuff in there that can be removed. It really is pretty simple; the only real circuit is the step-down for the glo-plug. The motor start is just a switch and LED indicator.

there is some RAM Ignition thing on towerhobbies.com look it up.

I found it. That and the ez start gears and motor and you're good to go.
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/r/ramp1350.jpg

It would be easier to use the traxxas ez start system though. Here's a link to the page with all the starting products.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...93p?&C=PDC&P=7

edit - If you could integrate the starter battery and the rx pack that would be one slick system.

If you want an ez start wand - http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=475403

You could probably pick it up for 10 shipped.

Looks Great! Nice work gee.

super nice body...

just a thought - why the need for an esc - why not just use a micro sevro on the 3rd channel to press the switch on the ez start?

Lets see a vid of this thing doing... whatever it does. All this is needed just to turn the kit on?:neutral:

Thanks guys.......

Yes, all this was needed to remotely start the Jato. Not to just turn the kit on. What kit? This remotely starts the nitro engine on the Jato at a distance as far away as you transmitter will work with your receiver.

To me the use of a micro servo to contact the start button would have been more difficult then the use of an esc. The location of the micro servo and the ez-start would of been difficult to do. At least that the way I see it on this setup. The esc regulates the power to the receiver. This method seems like a lot but it wasn't that much. To simply state why not use a micro servo makes it seem like that would of been much simpler until you try to locate the servo, sercure it and the ez-start board down to where they make contact........

Why not simply use an esc to power the ez-start from the 3rd channel on your receiver.

I would use the smallest cc car esc as it is fully adjustable, will run a brushed motor, has a lvc and is small. You can use the internal esc to run the truck, although it may be a bit much for 2 servos. I would use a ubec, adds some size, but will help.

I would also use a stand alone glo plug ignitor, like the ram setups mentioned. I guess the esc output could be used to power the ignitor... That way you can scrap the entire ez start setup.

Or use the ez start and remove the push button switch and replace it with a rec activated switch, like the robot guys use. No lvc but you could wire a li saver between the switch and the rec. No sure which is easier but the second option would be cheaper. Some sort of external bec would be required for either setup.

While remote start is cool, brushless is cooler! I have been working on a radio actuated flip over device... That would be handy.

Here is the switch you need to replace the push button switch on the ezstart.

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-PICOSW1.html

Just wire the 2s lipo to the ezstart. Replace the switch on the ezstart with the above linked item. Attach the motor and glow plug to the ezstart as usual. The switch wire goes into the 3rd channel.

I would also wire a ubec into the 2s lipo to provide power for the truck. A li-saver can also be wired into the setup, possibly after the ubec. That way it will interrupt power to the rec if the voltage gets too low. I would not do that however, as it may cause a runaway. I would wire it in between the rec and switch for the ezstart. That way you can not start the truck when the lipo is low, but the radio componets will still work. A small digital voltmeter would be good to keep an eye on the lipo voltage. A 2000 mah lipo will provide quite a long runtime for this, that is for sure! If you pay attention to the lipo voltage the li-saver may not be needed, and will simplify the wiring. Or you could buy a ubec with a lvc built in, such as some of the novak models.

Thanks for the input and ideas James That's the kind of stuff I was looking for when I started this thread. Some ideas on how to improve the current setup.

This project was a challange to me and my limited experience with the items I used and what available. Your ideas and explainations of those ideas are greatly appreciated.

The radio actuated flip over switch sounds to be a challange worthy for you. Looking forward to seeing it. If it could be added to a remote start system like this. I wouldn't have to get off my butt at all. Thanks for you help and support.

There's a real short video of the remote start located at this link.

http://www.rcbunker.com/Guyjor/public/1

Here's just a couple of shots of the Jato with the remote start wiring cleaned up. I was able to get the duratrax esc to arm with my Tx. It was smaller then the xl-5 I was using. I also swapped out the sr3100 receiver I was using for the sr3500 (I think that the model #) it's the small version. Got it all to fit into the receivers compartment and center compartment. Looks a lot better with the wires all tucked away. I left the connetion between the ez-start board and the onboard ez-start wire harness. That way I could use a ez-start wand if anything goes haywire with the remote start setup.

Before I cleaned up the wiring.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...0/overhead.jpg

After the wiring and components were all tucked away.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...tuckedaway.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...uckedaway2.jpg

Thanks for your guys help and support during this project

It looks cool and works fine - apologies if it came across as a flame... Quite a few crawlers use a switch/micro servo combo for dig setups which is what I had seen. I thought that would have been easier than an esc but from the video it is working really wel..

Thanks Chris, I apoligize for my response. I realized later after I replied what was up and where I was posting. I posted the mod over on the Jato forum at traxxas prior to posting here. I was in a bit of a defensive posture after the usual responses of people finding what is wrong with it. You have a lot of experience and I do appreaciate it when you post your comments/suggestions. The more I thought about it. The better I felt that at least the project was acknowledged. Heck, could of been one of those projects that no one post a comment on. "Crickets chirping" Those are tough, you have to paypal someone just so you can get a bump from someone other then yourself. LOL

Yeah, that is funny! I always feel bad for people when no one responds to their thread. I usually try not to reply unless I have something to add, or can answer the question. I have contemplated replying with something like "wow, that is the lamest thing I have seen in a while" but that is rude and I am not a post whore like Ian:whip:

I also like the paypal part, really funny. Good job Guy, even if you spent a bunch of time on a nitro jato... I need to send you some of my oddball projects, seems like you have too much free time on your hands!!!!

I had that problem when I did my strr conversion. I couldn't get anybody to reply or even visit the thread. I even threw hints out and everything but still no visitors. Made me realize how my grandparents must feel. I even came looking for you guys to find out what was distracting you all. I found everyone in the "Why I don't post here anymore" thread. I didn't know (or realize) who it was about back then so I couldn't figure out what the big attraction was. I thought about starting a thread if you guys don't come check out my conversion I'm not going to post here anymore. Nobody got any of my other hints. Only thing that would of gotten me is another user name to post under. So what else could I do? I unconverted the damn thing and will start another strr conversion thread someday.

It may have been a lot of time on the Nitro but I am hoping from what I learned I can adapt the remote start to work with my brushless setups.

You know I have been trying to find stuff other then tearing down my G3R and shinning it up. I've mentioned to Shaun I was going to tackle it someday. Even got some tips from him on buffing, but hell I can't drink that much wine. Shauns North Star buffing service is a tough act to follow. He did a hell of a job shinning his up.

It may have been a lot of time on the Nitro but I am hoping from what I learned I can adapt the remote start to work with my brushless setups.

remote start for an electric motor... Are you going to put a tiny nitro engine with a gearbox on it to start the motor?

You know I have been trying to find stuff other then tearing down my G3R and shinning it up. I've mentioned to Shaun I was going to tackle it someday. Even got some tips from him on buffing, but hell I can't drink that much wine. Shauns North Star buffing service is a tough act to follow. He did a hell of a job shinning his up.

Shaun does like buffing, among other things:whistle:

I am sure that you can drink enough wine to get it done. Maybe get some thunderbird, as this will be cheaper.

He said he'd do mine for a case of wine - I've found a case of headache inducing wine for $18 now I just need to get the car dirty enough...

Sorry I know nothing about strr's....