Spyder diffs
 

Which is better and why? a 6 spyder diff or 8 spyder diff?

Do you think that the Ti cvd made by UE is better than the other CVDs made by other companies?

Why in God's name do all the things made by UE seems way more expensive than other manufacturers?

Do I really need the diff housing made by UE to house the 1/8 diffs or will the FLM hybrids do the job?

For the money, go 8 spyder. The diff cup is alum, with the 6 spyder it's plastic/ nylon. Price diff isn't that much and you'll get a much stronger diff that will never strip.

Titanium cvd's is a very strong no no. Ti will wear so much faster than rolled heat treaded steel. Stick with the 6mm's and you'll be fine.

UE is the best you can get. Look at their racer x and compare it to integy very cheap knock off. Quality is expensive, but it also is very very strong.(unlike the integy version from all the story's i've heard)

If you plan on going big block brushless(wow that sound's sweet) i'd suggest yes. It is so smooth, set it and forget it. No other diff set-up come's close to being so maintanance free.

Ditto.....

price=quality..

what you pay is what you get and what you can expect. UE is better than FLM, topnotch finish.. better materials, but the question is; do you need it to be that good? from that point of view, i can suggest getting the FLM 1/8th combo's. THey are sweet and nice.
Do the math buddy! UE isn't THAT expensive..

Combine them with the FLM hybrids, and i personally think it is a fair price to pay for the diffs..

Well, does the therapist carry them? the 8 spyder diffs, that is.

He sure does.....

I agree with Serm, For the $$$ theFLM can't be beat. As far as strength and finish all FLM products are guaranteed against bending and breaking. And the finish is from the actual milling of the products. High quality and workmanship ;)

:C: :rolleyes: :o

Hmm.... can I also combine FLM chassis and Hybrids with UE extd suspension kit and any other hop ups from UE or any other manufact?!

Yes, you can, the extended UE suspension will work with the flm chassis and hybrids.

Any body knows where can I get a cheap e-maxx? probably someone wants to sell his for 100 dollars? The things I'm going to get for the maxx will easily top 1500 dollars. A cheap e-maxx is a must.

Arent you building an all aluminum emaxx? Why would you want a stock emaxx?

????!!!! Dont I have to get an E-maxx to build an all aluminum truck?

The only thing I used was the transmision. And on that I added the Gmaxx single speed, and the Ue idler gear. Oh yeah, i also got some body post.:p Everything else is from UE, Gmaxx, BK, Lehner, Hitec.

Itl save you a bit of money, you can build from scratch, the tranny isnt hard to come up with, as a matter of fact mike has everything you need to comlete one in his store!

Okay. I'll post the things I need to make an all aluminum truck and you tell me what are the things I need to complete it:

- FLM hybrids( probably UE bulkless, towerless)
- FLM half case for transmission
- FLM shock towers( if I'm not gonna get the ue ones)
- rc- monster heat sink
- RC-Monster idlers
- strobe slipper kit
- G-Maxx single speed conv.
- Super Maxx ext. center drive shafts
- Super duty MSR5 shocks
- Super Maxx servo saver kit
- UE ext. CVDs
- Hex adapters
- extended body
- 7.5 UE diff( 8 spyder)
- Super Maxx ext. suspension kit( with out shock towers)
- FLM extended chassis

Need your help people, please.

Ok, first off, id say you should get 4 UE supershocks, they will be a bit cheaper than 8 msr5 shocks, and will be lighter overall, and perform better, You need tires and rims, i would recomend Crime fighters on 23mm wabash rims, What setup are you gonna be running, as for those chassis, id highly reccomend gorillamaxx chassis , but if your an all out basher, go FLM. Your missing steering blocks, id use the integy steering blocks, there are some other little things you need but that covers some of the bigger things. What motor mount are you gonna use? Stock i assume?

Get the racer x shock's, so much better. If you got the money, deff get bulkless towered. Otherwise you'll need some skid's too, GA 2 mm's ti will do the job.

I'd suggest a racer x over the ext. Lighter, almost as strong and darn sweet looking. It will take allot of abuse for a basher suspension.

Also a few mod 1 pinion's wouldn't hurt. Also don't forget pillow ball's, the ue suspension strangly don't come with them. And ofcourse some silicone oil for the diff's(5k rear, 7k front) and some shock oil.

That's pretty much it to make it a roller.

If he goes for the ue suspension, they got steering block's. Integy don't fit them anyhow.

Ohh one big thing to get and easely overlooked, screw's!

http://www.tony1034.com/

Allot of screw's that come with the part's are junk, they will strip easely.

Tony 's screws rock. Same with the Supershox. Let's not forget hingepins, and steering turnbuckles. I assume when you say blocks you are speaking of knuckles. RacerX over EXt. Steering Servo, ESC, motor, motor mount.

Hingepin's and tb's are also included in the suspension kit;)

Well, I really like the racerX shocks and the towerless bulks are something to consider. I wanted Ti screws and ceramic bearings, but dont really need them. So I guess I'll get some tires and rimes( plastic), motor mount( G Maxx motor mount or stock), screw kit, turn buckles, hinge pins, steering knuckles all come with the suspension kit. But no pillow balls???!! no problem I'll get it. will the idlers and 8 spyders be enough to cover the whole drive train? dont you think you're missing something? I'll edit the list again.

Oyeah, I forgot to tell you that I'll be using kontronik FUN600-15 motor and the schulze 149.18 controller( I had have it quite a while ago). Why did you recommended G-Maxx over FLM and EXT susp over racerX? Are the msr5 shocks any weaker than the RacerX shocks? thanks for all the info.

G-maxx chassis, are very durable, and look better, and they are more race orientated, The racerx shocks are indeed stronger than the msr5s. You will have a better outcome with them, the integys look nice, for a shelf queen, the supershocks from UE are nice but are more for performance, as the motor mount, you cant use the g-maxx motor mount with the FLM chassis(you can use this motor mount if you get the g-maxx chassis)

Mind confusing.

Whats confusing you?

I dont know what I really want. I dont race at all and yet I want a top of the line truck. Full of aluminum, shiny, fast, powerful and within my range of money.

Like some people including me pointed out, titanium screw's are a very very bad idea. They will strip very easely. Your better off with 10,9 high grade steel. Don't get the 12.9 grade, they will shear off instead of bending during a crash.

I've got the racer x and am very pleased with it. It weighs in at around 460 - 480 gram's complete if I remember correcly(arm's, bearing's and knuckle's). It is better because you don't got rear turnbuckle's(which in a crash at jumping is a real pain in the butt since they break first) and weigh's less than a ext but almost just as strong.

I'm surprised the suspension kit's don't come with the pillow ball's. But for those, ue has their own steel one's. Again, don't take the titanium version since they will snap instead of bend like steel. And to top it off, ue pb's has a extra hex in de threaded part, so if you break it, you can still be able to get it off with the supplied hex in the suspension kit.

Your drivetrain should be plenty bullet proof.

Thanks, Sneeck. I'll look into it even deeper and then give an edited list.

Here you go. This is much better I think:
- half case trans
- steel idlers
- strobe slipper
- single speed conv
- super maxx ext drive shafts
- super maxx servo saver kit
- T- bonz hardened steel cvds
- hex adapter
- body ext
- 1/8 diffs
- FLM chassis
- FLM trans skid plate
- VBS bulks with skids
- tony's screw kit ( super maxx or e-maxx?)
- FUN600-15 motor
- racerX susp
- RacerX shocks
- stock motor mount
- stock pillow balls
- other stock parts

Those t-bonz cvds, id use UE there for sure.

Okay, UE cvds then.

i would also use the flm 1/8th scale hybrid bulks. the warranty cant be beat and neither can the price. also, if you get the racer-x i would get the setback arms. not sure what your gonna do with this truck but you might want to consider the gorillamaxx.

If ya' can swing the UE VBS do it. Check yourself on the pillow balls, steel about $26, titanium about $44, both are sets of eight.

But you'd save alot of money going hybrid other than VBS.

Go to thread is( FLM arms any good, seriously? ) The truck on there is all FLM . Good price. Good guarantee, Good looking.
But I might be a little biased lol:D

Your choice, i'm not going to brag about ue being better over flm(actually I am) but they got a point on saving money. If your budget is only 1,5k you are better off with the flm hybrid. If it was my choice i'd save some more money and buy a vbs. But that's me.

Yeah, but there must be something that makes the VBS better than the Hybrids, 500 dollars over 150-190 with shock towers is plain rediculous. FLM makes all their parts out of 6061 alloy, but Ue makes theirs out of 70something alloy. Probably that's the reason. I can surely afford an all UE truck, but its simply too much money. Unless I'm going to beat it up with a hammer, then the UE might be a good choice. Also I want a truck that has a variety of combinations from different manufacturers which cost around 1750 dollars including the Kontronik motor I'm planning to get. I already have a 9918/1920 8t and 149.18/ 1930 5t, but both of these motors are weak for a heavy truck. The FUN600-1500 is equal to a 1940 10T or 11T and it only costs 150 dollars with top German quality just like the Lehners. Give me more feed backs, I really like it. Thanks again.

i would go flm bulkless, ue servo saver, gorilla chassis, racer-x suspension, ue 6 spyders, flm and gorilla tranny, ue cvds.