Silverback Gorillamaxx Build
 

Ok guy going to need some input on this one so I am going to build it with your help. Heres some pic of the chassis I just picked up I plan on using the UE monoblock with the UE 110mm titanium centershaft.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2115.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2116.jpgBtw I need battery straps should I get the g-maxx ones or have you guys found a better alternative since I have seen alot of threads of the g-maxx ones ripping. I was thinking about polishing the lower plate but it is just going to get nicked and scratched . So I was thinking of hard annodizing it possibly black and keeping the top plates and braces polished (why I named it Silverback) but I still havent decided, any suggestions?
Now I need to decide what bulks I am going to use I have a like new set of 6061 Hardcores or a like new set of 7075 GA's. The Hardcore are lighter but not as strong as the GA's. The GA are heavy but bullet proof and I have a set of sweetstrobes to go with them. I was planning on running the titanium short shock towers duh engineering sells with shorter shocks much like the g-maxx suspension but with rpm truetrac and arms. I am not sure it will work with extreme angles of the shocks and if there is clearence issues. This is a picture of the GA'swith sweetstrobes and knuckleheads:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG1586.jpg
Here a pic of the Hardcores they will have titanium bulkhead braces notice the milled pocketing for reducing weight.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG1989.jpg
The VBS is out of the picture right now because its on another truck so I need to chose form the above. Which do you guys prefer and why?
Next I need to decide between 6 spider or 8 spider diffs (I have both) and what vicosity oil in the front and back. I am mostly a basher but I might decide too race so what ever the best way too go. That is what I have right now and would like some input on the above. Any sugestions or Ideas are welcome.

On the battery straps, the 3/4" ones broke on me, the 1" ones were strong

:gasp: DAM.. Nice build sir..:yes: Looking forward to watching it!, thanks for involving us.. Ok lets start here!..
1. I like the foundation your starting with, Yes I’ve broken my CF once (but it was completely my fault) I was jumping 40’ attempting back flips and landing square on my body!.. hahaaaa the good old days..
2. I recently polished everything on my Gmax and looks great!.. You might want to check it out (http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...=11434&page=12 ) pages 11 & 12, sure it gets scratched and dinged but we don’t build shelf queens here.. LOL.. I would save your money on the hard anodizing and put it better use..
3. Build it to last and to take a beating go with your GA’s..
4. Shocks I can’t help you there / have nothing to say of any value ask / look for George16 and or Jordan they are running your towers and will be able to advise better. I did like my MSR 8 though http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11681
5. 8 teach spider diffs would be my preferred choice. I run the 7000 in the front and 3000 in the rear.

That’s my two cents and remember your asked of it!..:lol::lol: Hope that helps?? :eyes:

Have a great one Sir and best of luck!..:wink: I’ll be watching, cheering and complaining the whole way through.. :rofl::rofl:

Seeing the picture now, the monoblock will be perfect for that setup.

1. You can buy the straps from Gorillamaxx or RCmonster or you can cheap out by making it yourself. I made mine.
2. I second Shaun on this; use the 7075 GA unless you really want to run the VBS.
3. I had been using the racerx shocks(4shock setup). Black springs on rear and blue springs in the front. I'm running 50wt oil all around.
4. I'm also using the 8 spyders with 3K rear and 7K front.

I recommend UE EXT suspension for the ultimate basher setup.

Nice build, I'll be watching this thread.

About the straps with Lipos the gorillamaxx straps will do their job. But if using some other brand like a123 shotgun shape (like I do in my g2r) no go.

What electrics have you planned?

I stole Hardstyles Idea and ended up using bike inner tube.

It seems to be working like a charm...

Argh you copycat! :whip: :lol:

I just doubled up on the gorillamaxx straps, couldnt find anything with the right type of mounting style, and inner tube idea came along after I had already done the order.

Use the 8 spider diffs since you have 'em, but the 6 spiders work fine for me as it is.

Use the GA bulks, I dont like the idea of bulks with that much material removed, even if they are HCR and not the Integy crappy copies.

Low profile towers and revo lenght shocks has been done before, works remarkably well, but suspension travel is obviously limited- great for onroad or fairly light duty off roading me thinks. :yes:

I made my own battery straps. I sew it together to make the loops on both ends and bolted it down to the chassis I also made. It only cost me $4.00.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture072.jpg

Ok guys I cleaned up the chassis a little more did a quick mothers hand polish on the upper plates and x braces.In the background of one of the pics is the bulks with sweetstrobes I will probably be using.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2118.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2119.jpg
I am still looking into getting the chassis black hard coated but if its too much $ forget it. I ordered new batt straps and new side straps and new foam pads.
Another thing I need to decide is which skid I am going to use I have some excellent shape old school Maxxtraxx 3mm titanium skids( do any of you guys remember these) and some excellent shape 2mm titanium Hardcore skids. If I run the 3mm I probably wont run bumpers to offset the weight, they seem to be indestructable.
I think you guys have talked me into running the ga bulks with 8 spiders but not sure on the sweetstrobes yet because if I use the thinner titanium towers there going to be a gap at the mounting point.We will see. Since the brushless has more torque than a nitro I think the 8 spider will be the best choice also. Does anyone have a extra g-maxx motor mount they want too sell I really cant justify spending $40 for a new one that I probably wont be using very long especially if the slipperential come out pretty soon. If not I will just use the $8 stocker. I dont want to give up suspension travel . I thought with the angle of the shock being more that a shorter shock (ofna front) would work without loseing travel I will come to that when I get too it. So a solid backbone is what you guys want thats what its getting sure it going to be a little heavier but with brushless power who cares. Hopefully it lives up too its name "Silverback" for being a rare and powerful beast. LOL

The thing with the DUH towers is that they pretty much are just shorter, the angle of the shocks wont change all that much- not compared to the gorillamaxx towers at any rate (shocks mount further out towards the ends of the arms vs stock type a-arms, and the tower has mounting points closer to the center line of the truck).

http://www.duhengineering.com/rc/img..._towers_01.jpg

vs

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...llaMaxx/94.jpg

I'd say stick with the UE knuckles heads and some ofna/ supermaxx/ 1/8 buggie shocks to be honest- sexier and stronger with better tuning options.

I do remember the maxxtraxx skids- seen 'em on the Bmaxx, one of the BL monsters on the RCnuts website:

http://rcnuts.hiamplidude.com/

And just trim down a stock motor mount to look like Gorillamaxx one, piece of cake and much cheaper :yes:

As long as they're not Integy titanium skids, you're good to go. I'm using hardcore ti skids and the weight is negligible with the motor's power/torque. Too light and it will be uncontrollable at high speeds.

I agree with using the knuckleheads towers.

I did not remove the other motor mounting position on the stock mount to help dissipate heat.

Have you ever seen integy on any of my nitro trucks lito. I learned a long time ago not too touch that stuff. It sounds like the short duh tower wont work too good so UE knucklehead it is. I just thought keeping everything low cog woulnt hurt.
Suspension now: rpm true track(need too buy)@~$80 or UE widetrack (I have allready) or racer x with setbacks if I can find them for ~$350 (need too buy) or UE ext set up(need too buy)~$150 used for 15mm version. What do you guys think ? The only down fall to rpm is I would have to buy 3.3 spec cvds because I dont think the plastic sliders will hold up.But I have a couple sets of UE cvds in my stock.
I almost forgot steering 1 hitech high torque servo or two hitech 645?

Just pulling your leg on the Integy comment :rofl::rofl:. I'm recovering from the flu so I'm stuck in front of my laptop.

Racerx/EXT with setbacks, 8mm UE cvds gets my vote.

Go with one high torque servo.. :yes:
I really like these: :whistle:

JR - DS8711 or the airtronics 94780

They are both digital have great speed and both sevo's have at least 400oz of torque :gasp:

The only draw back is the price.:oh:. the JR is 145.00 and Airtronics is $120 ish... :wink:

Best of luck and looking good....

I have 2 hitech hs-645mg allready or I guess I could rob a hs5995tg from another truck. I am trying to build this truck on a budget so if I can use stuff I have allready I might as well do that. I kinda like the two servo idea because I have them allready just need to figure out how to hook them up to the steering.

Piece of cake:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...ture1002-1.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...ture1003-2.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...ture1004-2.jpg

Use a pair of metal bellcrank kits and use the servo-side bit from both when you assemble it. Just add a decent Kimbrough saver for each servo, and Bob's your Uncle. :smile:

How do you like that setup neil? I picked up about 5 of those servos a while back used for about $10 each. I think it will be a good use for them. Do I see a plexi skid on that badboy I would like to do the same.

I like it alot- having metal geared servos means I would have a hard time stripping them anyway, but the Kimbrough savers (large gas truck) do a great job, especially given my ma-hoo-siv tyres etc. I did have a plexi skid on the truck a while back (old photos), but I dont bother anymore- battle scars are sexy :yes:

Ok I have gone a done it now! I figured that in order to complete this project that I am going to have to take apart and sell another one of my nitro trucks. As much as I didnt want to do it I took apart my full blown dace predator Supermaxx with VBS,racerx with setbacks. I figured that if brushless is as good as you guys say it is I might as well use the best parts. So here is a mock up of what I am going to do. LMK if you guys approve.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2124.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2125.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2126.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2127.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/CIMG2128.jpg
I figured if I am going to do it I might as well do it right. I bet you guys hate too see that vbs and racerx with setbacks goto waste on a nitro anyway. Hopfully with the low center of gravity and the vbs and racer x geometry it will rival the legendary UE Razoback that only 12 trucks exist in the world. We all know a Silverback gorrilla would whip its ass anyway LOL. I really wish the g-maxx chassis setup was made out of 7075 billet instead of 6061. With the power of brushless you think a little added weight would matter?. I know added strength would. I sure hope that slipperential comes out soon I think that would be the ultimate on this setup . LMK what you guys think.

That is one awesome build! :surprised: I wish to build a truck like that someday! The UE stuff looks killer!

Very nice dude! Keep it going. That will be hell of a truck, im sure :yes:
Hey did I see some plastic over there, in the middle :lol: You gonna do something about it :intello:

I am waiting till the end to figure out what I am going to do with the tranny no reason too spend extra money on this one if the slipperential coming out. You know what I mean.

Yeah, wise decision. Im waiting IT aswell..

Hahahahah. That's what I'm talking about. It looks real good. Just to let you know, my gmaxx weighed this much:
Emaxx – RTR with 2x 3S 5000mah lipo batteries. Had Badlands tires.
- 5.35 kgs = 11.77 lbs
but the brushless doesn't have any problems whipping it around :party::whistle:

You knew I couldnt resist using that beautiful vbs and racerx on this truck lol. Isnt the vbs a little bit lighter than regular bulk type setup? So ~ 11 pounds with some lighter wheels and tires isnt that bad. You guys think I am going to still be able to do a wheelie with the extension and setbacks?

Yup.

Here are the weights for your viewing pleasure:

VBS Front w/ 7.5-8: 286g
VBS Rear w/ 7.5-8: 296g


GA 7x Rear & brace w/ Ultralite, K-Head, 7.5-8: 350g
GA 7x Rear & brace w/ Ultralite, K-Head, 7.5-8: 352g

Wow! I didnt think there was that much difference. Is that with titanium skids or without? I assume you meant front GA with brace also instead of 2 rears. Sweetstrobes will make them heavier also.The VBS look like the would be heavier, makes me appreciate them even more now. Well except for the cost LOL. Expensive but worth it IMHO.

Oops.

GA 7x Rear & brace w/ Ultralite, K-Head, 7.5-8: 350g
GA 7x front & brace w/ Ultralite, K-Head, 7.5-8: 352g

Front is 2 grams heavier because of the bigger brace used.

The VBS weight is with the titanium skids.

:surprised:

What kind of skids is on the GA bulks if you weighed them with one?

GA 2mm titanium skids.

That is one sexy truck Riv!! I may have overlooked this, but what batts/esc/motor combo are you planning on running?

Nice fiundings there as well Lito, i didn't know VBS save quite so much weight :gasp:

This has all the makings of a super truck. Only thing I woulod change is to flip the tranny around and have the motor pointing towards the rear, purely a looks thing.

And yeah, BL is definately as good as we rave about around here, you wont regret dissecting that nitro to harvest the good parts from it :yes:

I am not sure yet as far as power by the time I am ready something new might be out like the neu 1518 people are beta testing, maybe bigger I dont know yet. All I know is I want it really fast. As far as the tranny I didnt even bolt it in yet and I think I am going to wait on the slipperential anyway. hint hint mike. My silverback gorilla ate my nitro predator.

[QUOTE=suicideneil;257196]This has all the makings of a super truck. Only thing I woulod change is to flip the tranny around and have the motor pointing towards the rear, purely a looks thing.[QUOTE]

Completely agree!...

Looking good..:wink: keep up the great work!..:yipi:

My plan is now too take it apart and basically go through the vbs and make sure its shimed properly put the right oil in the diffs and grease up the gears. I sold the predator chassis and one of my rollcages I need too sell a few more items to purchese parts to finish the build. I have the shocks do you think I could get away with 4?. I have the UE gen IV servo saver and a hitech hs5955tg servo. I am just wondering if the 6mm UE cvds will handle the torque the brushless mill will put out? I also have a diemaker daves wing mount for the vbs that I will be installing with a mugen stay and either a proline wing or a jconcepts wing. What do you guys think about making a anti roll bar setup for the racerx suspension. Or does it need it? the extremly low cog will definatly help things out as far as handling. Any recomendation on wheels and tires. I have alot too choose from any where from stock to Low profile komodos to 23mm to UE SMMRW biohazards with monster pirate tires what do you guy think would be a good choice for wheels & tires? I personally like the 23 mm wabash with bowties.

1. I'm using 4 racerx shocks, 50wt oil all around, blue springs front and black springs rear.

2. I sued to run my gmaxx with 6mm UE cvds. The only reason I'm using the 8mm UE cvds now is because I have it and don't want it sitting in my parts bin.

3. The CoG is so low on the gmaxx that a sway bar is unnecessary in my opinion. The front shocks are mounted on number 7 on the shock tower and outermost hole on the lower arm. The rear shocks are mounted on #7 on the shock tower and 2nd hole from the outboard on the setbacks. I still have to have a rollover.

4. Tires/wheels depends on what you intend to be doing and running at majority of the time. I personally like the badlands mt tires with proline dish wheels. I'm using them with Dace's 23mm adapter. If you already have the monster pirate tires and biohazards, I'd say use them.

Just so you guys know this build is going to take a while as I have too sell of some of my nitro stuff to finance this build. So it might take a while for the finished product.I was thinking on stepping up and going with a little bigger than a 15151ymaybe a 1521 or a 1518 when they come out. Or it this overkill? I allready sold 1 UE predator chassis and an new nitro engine and some GA bulks so I am getting close. I do need to pick a good inexpensive charger and lipos from hobby city I need a parts list of the best type of batt connectors that I will need to make or build to run 2 3s packs for a total of 6s. I suppose deans ultra are good but wheres the best place to get them and everything I need at a reasonable price.

You will be hella impressed with a 1515, bigger isn't really necessary, and considering budget a 1515 is plenty. Of course bigger is always cooler! Deans are the standard, asian imitations are cheap on e-bay. Many like the new traxxas connectors for better grip/ease of use. I reccomend a good hyperion charger, I'll be getting the 610i w/ built in balancer, to use it to capacity you need a 300 watt power supply, I got one off ebay for $70.