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Kyosho Inferno 777 ST-R 1/8 Scale Truggy

Hey guys anyone know this info for this truggy ? I plan to buy one so im so curious about the top speed of this setup...

Enter Front/Rear Differential Gear Ratio :

Enter Transmission Gear Ratio :

Enter tire diameter in inches :

Thanks !

4.3:1 (43/10)
1:1 (1)
Most tires about 5.3 - 5.7 inches

i have a str im looking 2 get rid of with a rcm-motormount:whistle:

I have buyed one till waiting for it ... why are you want to get rid of it ? no fun easily break ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason (Post 256685)

I have buyed one till waiting for it ... why are you want to get rid of it ? no fun easily break ?

Possibly a spare or an r/c he doesnt have time to run...:whistle:

I have read on the internet many people got in trouble with those diffs ? not shimmed properly or ?

my setup is :

Castle Mamba Max ESC & CC BEC

KD 7XL Motor with 5mm shaft (2370kv)

13t Mod1 Pinion

50T Steel Spur Gear

12 Cells NIMH

Kyosho Inferno 777 ST-R 1/8 Scale Truggy

I have read on the internet many peoples got in trouble with those diffs ? not shimmed properly or ?

my setup is :

Castle Mamba Max ESC & CC BEC

KD 7XL Motor with 5mm shaft (2370kv)

13t Mod1 Pinion

50T Steel Spur Gear

12 Cells NIMH

hmm how do I can know if it is properly shimmed or not ?

There shouldn't be remarkable play when pulling the diffs drive cups.
Shimming eliminates the play between the diff and the drive cup. More closely said it fixes the play between the gears inside.

Edit:.
There was a thread for proper shimming, but I can't find it anymore, I think Lincpimp started it.

finaly got it I runned it at -5°c during the winter time and my esc and motor got hot after around 10min of runtime ...

motor around 180f

and speed around 190f

im running 50t spur and 13t pinion

motor KD 7XL 2370KV

im using 12cells nimh IB3800 in series..

anyone have any idea what it can be ?

You need to shim the diffs properly, If you read the manual it tells you how to do it there, you could down load it from Kyosho or there is a thread on it at truggyracers.com
I know that when i bash my truggy on the grass on 4s with a MMM and 1515 1Y, i can run the pack to cut off and the fan may come on shortly once of twice. I can easily put my hand on the motor. i am geared 13/50

anyone know of have pictures of shimming those diffs properly ? I already got my pinion and crown gears worm but it can still run ... the method into the manual it was that one it was used and dont work fine...

Once the diffs are run in you need to shim them again. Make sure the pinion is seated all the way. The way i shimmed mine was as per the manual and i am having no trouble at all. Just follow the manual

anyways I would give a try to this gears for the front and rear diffs...

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=HBSC9010

and

http://www.greathobbies.com/producti...od_id=HBSC9009

I think it would direct fit!

Duplicate threads merged...

sorry lol

so guys what the best gearing for running on 4s with 2370kv motor ?

do you think 50/13 would be overgeared or undergeared ?

I'm running 50/15 and my temps are the following:

ST-RR
50/15, 5S

ESC – 104
Motor – 131
Batteries – 100

However, give it a try first and see what the temps are then just use the guideline below.

I got this from one of the posts here in RCM:

Quote:

Although not always true, a rule of thumb is:
Hot motor, cool controller, cool batteries = undergeared
Cool motor, hot controller, hot batteries = overgeared
Warm motor, warm controller, warm batteries = happy components
hot motor, hot ESC, and hot batteries = overgeared

Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more

The reasons the above are not always true are numerous, but may include:
Sticky drivetrain - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Poor quality batteries - batteries will heat up regardless of gearing.
Wrong motor for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.
Wrong controller for the application - will put un-necessary strain on electronics whether geared correctly or not.

The list goes on, but this can give you an idea of things to watch for.

thanks for this guideline bro :great:

which setting do ya use guys in mamba esc with your kyosho st-r the ideal one ...

for :

brake amount
punch control
start power
drag brake
reverse throttle
motor timing

My settings:

brake amount - 50%
punch control - 50%
start power - Low
drag brake - Disabled
reverse throttle - 50%
motor timing - 10%

stock brake curve and throttle curve right ?

im just back to upgrade my mamba max esc firmware to 1.20 better than the 1.17 one ?

and do ya use Porportional w/ reverse lockout or Forward to Brake to Reverse ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jason (Post 261427)

stock brake curve and throttle curve right ?

I'm using stock brake and throttle curves

im just back to upgrade my mamba max esc firmware to 1.20 better than the 1.17 one ?

1.20 is way better.

and do ya use Porportional w/ reverse lockout or Forward to Brake to Reverse ?

Porportional w/ reverse lockout

anyone using other body than the stock one on his st-r ? I maybe want to get a new body that direct fit not sure which one... savage body look good to me if you got pictures show me it please :)

I have twisted a rear center universal shaft doing some small jump does it can because of the 100k center diff fluid I have put ? put more stress on the rear ?