goda know
 

ok i need to know how my rig will perform :p . its a mostly stock rs4mt converted to rwd. for the guts, i will be running a chili peper 540s 4400kv motor im going to run it on a 3s lipo and for a controller im going to use a mtronics pro.

may have traction problems because of a lot of weight in front of the rear wheels, but on pavement it should run good

Traction would be my first thought too.That's why i generally don't run lipo in 2wd stadium trucks.I'd strongly recommend keeping it 4wd.If it's the car i'm thinking of you can run a 3s pack under the belt there.

the rs4mt is a truck. and i cant switch it back cause the small pulley im using is aluminum and it slightly wider than stock, so i cant fit 2 of them on the shaft. ive had a bl setup in the truck already, although it was slow caused my pos battery's, it still was fast enough to show that traction wasn't much of an issue. plus the way the truck is made and the weight is setup in it, its less likely to flip over when driven hard

Yeah i know it's a truck,i meant if it runs a pack transverse under the main belt then a 3s should fit under there,i thought maybe there wasn't clearance for your pack was the reason for the 2wd.

It's the same layout i've gone for with my xray T1 3s setup.

Anyhoo,it should be quick,what's a chilli pepper motor though?.If it was similar to a basic4200 you could see 50mph.

ya the batt sits just in front of the motor under where the belt used to be. the pack will fit but most of them wont. the chili pepper motor looks like a feigao s motor with a 5mm shaft and theres no end ball. here are some pics, the one of the truck is what the setup used to look like

and heres a pic of the motor

I wish they still made the electric MT.Seems like a huge hole in the market for an electric 1/10 4wd stadium truck which is odd because they would make perfect allrounders.

is it worth it to go lipo in a stadium truck? the lipo pack i wont to get is a 3s and weights only 198g, but to do lipo would cost so much more. the pack is $89 the low voltage thing is $26 and the balancer for the pack is $38 so thats like $175 with shipping. or if i wonted to save alot of money i could just through like 9 cells in there and get the same voltage and power basicly for about 90 bucks. the down fall is the weight. 9 cells is like 3 times the weight of that pack. how much of a differance in that going to make in speed and hadling?

Well i run 8 cell gp2200 packs in my stadium truck.Fit's in the same space as 6 subCs(a fraction longer) and is a similar weight.weighs 412g but that's built as a solderless power tubes pack which adds a few grams.

There's no doubt the weight will make a difference,however depends on where the weight is where handling and traction is concerned.2wd trucks do need weight over the rear axle or they just go nowhere.

ok well this pack is half the weight of that. have you ran 8 sub c's in there before?

They won't fit,it's a xxxtMF2,i'd much rather 10gp2200s,which i might try shortly,have to saddle the other 2 cells somewhere.

The 3s 3300 pack i just bought for my touring car fits in the losi though so i'll try that.It weighs 280g.I think it'll be slower though because traction is by far the limiting factor where i run,i go through a small fortune in rear tyres for it,they have to be fresh or it's just not worth bothering which is very expensive.

ok i fiddled with my truck for awhile and turned it back into a 4wd. so traction is not an issue. i got some $$ for xmass and before i spend it i goda know:). so how much of a diff. is it going to make going from 9 sub c's (like 600g) to a 200g 3s lipo pack? forget about traction and such just say every thing is perfected

Excellent news.The weight loss should make a substantial difference.What are the specs of these Lipo cells?

http://duralitebatteries.com/batteries-esilver.html

its the evo 20 2500mah pack. i might not get them sence there balancer is a crock you can only charge at .4c with the balancer attached :rolleyes:

i've got the evo 20 3300 3s pack,haven't run it yet though,need to get a power supply and some banana plugs when the shops open.
I've got the flightpower 2-6s balancer,(made by duralite),i was told to charge at 1c when i talked to flightpower on the phone.What makes you think you can only charge at that rate?

"Brian,

Charging Through STAY BALANCE MODULE™ using DURALITE PLUSTM Brand Charger.

The module, when used in conjunction with the DURALITE PLUSTM Charger , also acts as a voltage limiting devise.

First plug in the MODULE & balance the pack before connecting the charger. Then plug the Module into the DURALITE PLUSTM Charger by connecting the yellow charging lead connections. Then begin your charging cycle. Although the balancer was designed to be used in conjunction with the Duralite Plus chargers it has been used with other chargers connected thru the yellow lead. You will need to construct a female adapter for your charger to plug into the balancer yellow lead. If you choose to do this, make sure that your charger is set at no more than 400 mah charge rate or .4 of 1 C."

i emailed duralite about hooking up there balancer to a diff charger

Don't connect the balancer to the charger then.As far as i understand the balancer is not connected to the charger.The pack has a balancing lead which plugs into the balancer whilst charging.

What yellow lead is he talking about?

Sounds like he's saying if you connect the balancer to another brand of charger then you can't charge at 1c but you don't need to connect it to the charger anyway.

hum so you have a duralite balancer? and there no other wires coming out of it cept for the wires to the pack? are you going to use a duralite brand charger or somthing else?

It has a plug on it that you plug the balancing lead on the pack into,it has another socket for a different size of connector-10 pin or 14 pin depending on your pack(this is the 2-6s balancer).

He must have thought you specifcally wanted to connect it to your charger so that it also acts as a 'voltage limiting device'.Maybe throw him another e-mail to double check.
You should be able to charge at 1C just connecting the pack to the balancer.
I'll be able to tell you in a few days once i get what i need and get to grips with my new charger.

Those pack dimensions are complete crap by the way,that's more like the length of the cells themselves.The 3300 3s actually measures 148mmx46mmx20mm.The 2500 should work well for you i think,the 3300 would have more amps and longer runtime if you could fit it in.

I bought a schulze 330D BTW,i need to work through the destructions when i get time,seems a little complicated to me.

hum i hope it still fits:M: . its tight right now with the specs they have. ive only got 133mm leaght so that pack is just to long i think the bigest i can fit is the 2500mah :(

i wonder if those wires that the guy was talking about are the ones coming of the balancer, besides the ones for the batt pack, in this pic

http://duralitebatteries.com/images/sm-sbm2-3.jpg

you can see them on the left

The yellow connectors are on their chargers by the looks of it.

There's a few mm to add to the quoted lengths to account for wires and and the wrapping.

These cells are basically the polyquest XP cells which polyquest rate at 16C but from what i gather flightpower are claiming that with their matching/selection and assembly(done at their own seperate manufacturing facility)they rate them at 20C.Some are sceptical claiming that the cells would get too warm at 20C and 30C peaks to hold voltage and that they'd be better rated at 16C.
(this is my electrically illiterate interpretation of the situation anyway:L: )

cool i sould have the room if the pack is only alittle longer than it is listed as. if the pack is only 16c its fine for me i dont think i can burn up a pack with this setup. i emailed them about the balancer agian, just asked if the balancer hooked up to a charger in any way. and i asked them about the extra wires coming off the 3s balancer. hopfully i will be running that setup shortly :p . tnks for your help gustav:cool:

what is the kv and amps rating of the motor? if it is over 5900kv and 100 amps it might be too much for those batteries, because 2500mah at 20c is a 50 amp draw and 30c is 75amp. I think you might be pulling too many amps for those batteris

It's a 4400kv i think.The pack being light should shed some load off the motor.I'm not totally sure either.If it's true 50 amp continuous it should be OK though shouldn't it?

cant remember who told me this but i was told that with lipo you only need half the amps that your motor will put out for the pack like if the motor pulls 70amps then you need a pack that can take 35. ill try and find the post were i was told that

found it :You don't. My 8L was rated at ~80amps, and the batteries were 40amps continuous, and were fine. The motor's amp rating really doesn't mean anything. To be on the safe side, you would really only need something with 45-50amps continuous.:

metal man said that here http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...&threadid=1618

its like the 10th post down

ok ujst thought i would point it out. my way of thinking is that if you match the motor constant with the battery constant you will not have any problems

any body run a mtroniks pro controller? how do you like it? i was thinking of getting one but the only place i can think of is starluckrc.com but hes gone till like the 9th on jan :(. what about the newer mgm controllers are they good? did they fix the problem with braking when you let off the trottle?

I run a Mtroniks Truck controller, and it is pretty awesome. My favorite thing about it is that it's WATERPROOF. The external soldering bars (or whatever you call them) are also pretty nice.

I also run a MGM Compro 12012 new version, and I like it much better than the old version. The main difference between the new/old is that the new one has the "freewheel" option that corrects the problem where the controller changes the motor RPM to match the throttle input. It also has an adjustable drag-brake setting. The newer ones also have reverse disable.
The programmability of the MGM controllers is better compared to the Mtroniks. There are more options for acceleration speed, braking strength, Lipo cutoff type, etc. BUT, the MGM ones (at least not the plane style) aren't waterproof. IMO, that is the biggest drawback to them.

hum sounds like the mtroniks is the way to go for me then sence im just a basher i dont really need all the settings and stuff. well lame that means i cant get one till he gets back :cry

I think you can wait :).

thats a long time for this money to sit in my pocket . sniff: sniff: i smell burning :L: :p

FYI, the MGM controllers are available in a "hydro" version. While I wouldn't submerge them, they are at least "moisture proof". A little silicone would work wonders on the current ones I have in stock as well.

well to late i spent half my money :p . spent it on my 2nd addiction caraudio :Love: