flm hybrids problem
 

hey,


i just received the hybrid bulk , but the 1/8 diffs do not fit in , there is no place for the ring and pinion , and the diff gear is too big to fit ,im using the diffs from the ofna titan , which is also used in most of ofna's buggies , the gearing is 13/43,wat seems to the problem ??



thanks

are they really hybrids? maybe they are combo bulks for standard maxx diffs. i seen FLM parts misslabelled (got wrong skid plates couple years ago)

Reading.
 

If I am reading that package correctly does it not say that is is for the T-Maxx 7.5 gears?? If so then I do believe that you either received the wrong bulks, or you ordered the wrong number.

no , it says that they use hyper 7 and inferno 7.5 gears , and the one im using is similar to the hyper diffs , i think i got the wrong bulks

hhmm , i just compared it to the stock diff case , the hybrid seems to have a bigger bearing space , bigger openings and bigger internal space , i think the gear m8 be big , gonna check some other diffs in the hobby shop

I think the OFNA gears are to big. I use the Hot Bodies lighting series diff's and they fit perfect.

turns out the ofna titan diffs are too big , gonna order some hyoer 7 diffs , but i read somewhere that the cup of 1/8 buggies are too short for the maxx and the cvd wont reach it , is that true ???

That happened with my FLM hybrids and the Hot Bodies diffs. You can either change the output shaft, get longer cups or use 3.3 spec sliders.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../295570302.jpg

will this fix the problem????


http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RCM8mmdrivecup

I am not sure. This is what I was told I would need:

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...d=RCMdiffshaft

i just tried the kyosho 777 diffs , and they fit , but the cups r too short , if i get this and use the emaxx cups for the cvds will it work ??

i just put the cups from the ofna titan diffs in the 777 diffs , and the problem is solved, but theres a bit of play in the cups they move in and out a little , is that ok ??

You might want to get some shims, as any slack will usually cause problems....

Hmmm... this is interesting, i was hoping that my x1crt diffs would fit in the hybrid bulks:neutral:. Maybe not?

i tried shimming the cup to stop the up and down movement and it doesnt seem possible if theres no movement it becomes hard to turn and theres movement (without shim) it spins freely.

will these shims work fit on the cup's shaft??

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLGJ1&P=7

Go to e-bay then go to seller "hopmeup" He has Hot Bodies diff's and "rcboyz" has the hardened replacement gears for them. Also go to nova-rc they have aluminum diff. cases for the Hot Bodies. I just put them in my FLM's and now they are bullet proof. Ohh, Make sure the pivot balls are screwed all the way in.

UE and MIP Shafts will work fine with Hybrid Bulks, most 1/8 diffs, and most stock/aftermarket arms.

ok now i shimmed everything and everything is running fine except 1 thing , ive ran it twice till now , and the rear drive cup gets loose every minute , i even put thread lock on it it still gets loose , ive stripped 3 grub screws till now , how can i stop it from getting loose ??? btw im using the duratrax raze cups



and the front rpm arms ot damaged , should i replace them with flm arms ???

Dremel/flatten the end of the setscrew to provide more "biting/holding" force due to bigger contact patch between the setscrew and the shaft. Worked well for my trucks.

I would stay with the RPM for plastic or go with UE arms if you want aluminum.

well i tried flatening the end but still no use , i have stripped grub screws now , i think it m8 be the cups ill check with the lhs today if they have diff cups but as for the arms the hole in the rpm arms get larger when it gets hit so minehas alot of slop and play int he arms


is the flm ext arms same length as the rpm arms ??


because i have the rpm true traks in the rear and i want to keep the lower arm and replace the upper arms with the flm ext upper arm , and replace the whole front arms with flm .

The jammin diffs will be exact same size as the 777 and hot bodies diffs, there all based off of the kyosho gears any way..

The titan on the other hand (all 9.5 based ofna buggies) have a larger diff cup and if not mistaken a greater circumference then the kyosho based diffs.

So they will fit?

if the jamiin diffs are the same as he 777 yes they will fit but the titan,ofna 9.5,ravager,blazer...... diffs wont fit , the are way too big, im using mp7.5 diffs with titan diff cups

yup they will.

well im about to finish the emaxx , only 1 part left , i need the hinge pin for the front lower arms for the flm hybrids , whats the strongest one that will fit ??

I use Ti pins from Lundsford, but a bent Ti pin in a metal bulk is a b**** to get out. Some guys here use carbon fiber pins. (JDCarbon)

+1 to that idea. CF will flex alot before it breaks, but atleast if it does break, it will snap/ shatter into nice straight pieces, so its easy to remove from the bulks.

I had been using through-hardened ejector pins as hinge pins for all my trucks.

i tried looking for the carbon fiber ones but their out of stock , and george where can i get those handened ejector pins for the emaxx ??

thanks

Here:

http://www.plastixs.com/ep01.html?gc...od6SdNgQ#6inch

what are the advantages of using these over the normal style hingepins?? what size in the site will fit the maxx?? can anyone post a picture of those ejector pins installed in the maxx??


thanks

Fail.

Go back to page 2, and read my mine & Mark's comments.
Get a ruler and calipers, and measure your stock pins to see which size you need- slightly too long is fine as you can trim them down as required.

You dont need a picture- its just a metal pin with a head on it, visualize it boy.... :yes:

Man..I miss you over in the traxxas forum...:rofl::rofl:

They don't bend as easily as the others. You'll need the 1/8" diameter pin.

Pics for you.
 

Here are some photos of the pins I received. I left the knobs on the end of the first set that I cut, and with bumper mounts installed it is impossible for them to come out on their own. Like Lito said the 1/8th inch are what you need. I really like the chrome pins because they are very smooth, which helps the arms move easily. I have had to remove way too many bent pins due to them getting bent in just simple bumps. These are much harder and they do not bend easily like the Ti pins do. They really are great.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/82c71f6e.jpg

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...E/f165a77a.jpg

They actually look quite trick. :yes:

I drilled and tapped my GA bulks in order to capture the pins. This prevents them from moving and greatly reduces the chances of bending them. Besides, they'll break before they bend.

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture087.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture088.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture090.jpg

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/h...Picture091.jpg

well i finally finished my emaxx and got it running yesterday , after 2 runs with the punch control set to 50% the spider gear got damaged it was the spider gears from a used kyosho mp777 then i changed the spider gears to the ofna titan spider gears and set the punch control to 80% and after 2 runs the spider gears stripped again although im pretty sure everything is meshed correctly.

my LHS sells kyosho inferno diffs and xtm diffs , which is better??

wat diffs r u guys using in ur hybrid bulks??

Thats odd and hard to believe! Emaxxter, a poster on TRX busted a HB Lightning diff in his Hybrids a few days ago